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CHAPTERDate: NAME Text Pages: 791–841POINT TO PONDER:“If you don’t have a dream, how you gonna have a dream come true?”—“Happy Talk” from Rodgers and Hammerstein’s South PacificThe list of services cosmetologists are legally allowed to perform in theirspecialties in their states is known as the(Scope of Practice [SOP]).A Scope of Practice may state the services cosmetologists cannot legally perform.(X)True FalseIf a client sustains damage while a cosmetologist is performing an illegal service, the cosmetologist is not liable. True(X)FalseWHY STUDY MANICURING?In your own words, explain why cosmetologists should study and thoroughly understand manicuring. (Answers will vary but may include that studying and thoroughly understanding manicuring allows cosmetologists both to offer their clients varied services and easily recognize manicuring tools. In addition, cosmetologists who study and thoroughly understand manicuring know how to use manicuring tools properly and can apply their knowledge to perform manicures safely and correctly.)NAIL TECHNOLOGY TOOLSProfessional cosmetologists must learn to work with the tools required for nailservices and know all(safety) ,(cleaning) , and(disinfection)procedures asdefined in state regulations.Chapter 25 Manicuring 201Name the four types of nail technology tools cosmetologists incorporate into their services. (Equipment.) (Implements.) (Materials.) (Professional cosmetic nail products.) (Equipment)services.includes all nonimplement, permanent tools used to perform nailList the equipment needed to perform nail services. (Manicure table.) (Adjustable lamp.) (Cosmetologist and client chairs.) (Gloves.) (Fingerbowl.) (Disinfection container.) (Client’s arm cushion.) (Service cushion [optional].) (Gauze and cotton wipe container.) ( Trash containers.) (Supply tray [optional].) (Ultraviolet or electric nail polish dryer [optional].) (Electric hand/foot mitts [optional].) ( Terry cloth mitts [optional].) (Paraffin bath [optional].) A manicuring table can vary in length, but it is usually(36 [.91 m]) to(48 [1.2 m])inches (meters) long.The adjustable lamp attached to a manicuring table should be 40 to 60 watts or fluorescent.(X)True False202Chapter 25 Manicuring The cosmetologist’s chair should be selected for what features?( The cosmetologist’s chair should be selected for ergonomics, comfort,durability, stain resistance, and cleaning ease.)The Occupational Safety and Health Act (OSHA) defines(Personal ProtectiveEquipment [PPE])as “specialized clothing or equipment worn by an employeefor protection against a hazard.”Define the term bloodborne pathogen (BBP).(Bloodborne pathogens [BBPs]are pathogenic microorganisms in human blood and other body fluids thatcan cause disease in humans.)Explain how to remove the gloves worn during nail services.( With one glovedhand, remove the glove from the other hand by inverting the glove’s cuff and pulling the glove inside out. To remove the second glove, use the nowungloved hand to pull the second glove over the first one. Remember to invert the glove’s cuff and pull it inside out. Dispose of both gloves together.)When a client receives a manicure and a pedicure, the cosmetologist needs only one set of gloves. True(X)FalseName the steps for handling an exposure incident during a manicure. (If you do not have gloves on, immediately put them on, and inform your client of what has occurred. Apologize and proceed.) (Apply slight pressure to the area with cotton to stop the bleeding, and then clean with an antiseptic.) (Apply an adhesive bandage to completely cover the wound.) (Clean and disinfect the workstation, as necessary.) (Discard all disposable contaminated objects. Use a biohazard sticker or a container for contaminated waste. Deposit sharp disposables in a sharpsChapter 25 Manicuring 203 (Before removing your gloves, thoroughly clean all tools and implements that have come into contact with blood or body fluids, and immerse them in an EPA-registered hospital disinfectant solution or 10 percent bleach solution for 10 minutes. Never touch an open sore or wound.) ( Wash your hands with soap and warm water before returning to the service.)How is the fingerbowl used in nail service?(A fingerbowl is used to soak aclient’s fingers in warm water and thereby soften the skin and cuticle.)The federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) requires total immersion of implements during disinfection.(X)True FalseThe warmth of electric hand/foot mitts is designed to(aid in the penetration of conditioning ingredients) , (add comfort to the service) , and (provide the client ultimate relaxation) .20.(Paraffin), a petroleum by-product, has excellent sealing properties to holdmoisture in the skin.21.(Reusable)or (multi use)implements are generally stainless steelbecause they must be properly cleaned and disinfected after use on one client and before use on another.22.(Disposable)or (single-use)implements cannot be reused because theycannot be cleaned and disinfected; they must be thrown away after one use.23. Match each of the following implements with its use in nail care.(d)(i)(e)(a)(f)Wooden pushera) Trim away dead skin around nailsMetal pusherb) Shorten the nail’s free edge quickly and efficientlyNail brushc) Remove products from containersNippersd) Remove cuticle tissue from the nail plate or clean under the nail’s free edgeTweezerse) Scrub implements clean before disinfection204Chapter 25 Manicuring (b)(c)(h)(g)Nail clippersf) Lift small bits of debris from the nail plate and remove implements from disinfectant solutionPlastic or metal spatulag) Apply nail oils, nail polish, or nailtreatmentsTwo- or three-way bufferh) Create a beautiful shine on nailsApplication brushi) Gently scrape cuticle tissue from thenatural nail plateLower-grit abrasives, which are less than(180)grit, are aggressive, while fine-grit abrasives, in the category of(240)and higher grit, are designed for buffing,polishing, and removing very fine scratches.PROFESSIONAL COSMETIC PRODUCTSWhy are liquid soaps preferred professional cosmetic products?(Liquid soapsare recommended and preferred cosmetic products because bar soaps harbor bacteria and can become a breeding ground for pathogenic [disease-causing]26.bacteria.)(Polish removers)are used to dissolve and remove nail polish.27.(Acetone)polish works more quickly and is a better solvent than(non-acetone)removers, which are preferred when removing nail polish fromnail enhancements.What are nail creams, lotions, and oils designed to do?(Products like nailcreams, lotions, and oils are designed to soften dry skin around the nail plateand increase the flexibility of natural nails.)Discuss the use of cuticle removers in nail care.(Cuticle removers are designedto loosen and dissolve dead tissue on the nail plate so that the tissue can bemore easily and thoroughly removed from the nail plate.)Excessive exposure of the eponychium to cuticle removers can cause(skin and eponychium dryness, leading to hangnails).What is nail bleach? (Nail bleach is a cosmetic product that is applied to the nail plate and under the free edges of natural nails to remove yellow surfacediscoloration or stains.)Chapter 25 Manicuring 205What are the alternate names for the colored coatings applied to the natural nail plate? (Polish.) (Enamel.) (Lacquer.) (Varnish.) 33.(Polish)is a generic term describing any type of solvent-based, colored filmapplied to the nail plate for the purpose of adding color or special visual effects.Why is it important to use base coats on nail enhancements?(Base coats areimportant to use on nail enhancements under colored polish to prevent surface staining.)Nail hardeners can be applied before the base coat or after as top coat.(X)True FalseList some basic types of nail hardeners. (Protein.) (Reinforcing fiber.) (Dimethyl urea.) By law, home-care products must be accompanied by usage directions and cautions or written instructions.(X)True FalseDiscuss the use of top coats in cosmetology.( Top coats are applied overcolored polish to prevent chipping and to add a shine to finished nails.)Contrast hand creams and lotions. (Hand creams are generally designed to be barriers on the skin and help the skin retain moisture, or they containpenetrating ingredients to soften the skin or repair damage. A hand cream’s purpose is to make the skin on hands less prone to dryness or cracking. Lotion is generally more penetrating than hand cream and may treat lower levels of the epidermis.)206Chapter 25 Manicuring (Material Safety Data Sheets [MSDSs]) provide valuable safe-handling information about products, as well as first aid and proper storage information.Experts say that as much as exposure to the sun.(90)percent of skin damage is caused byTHE BASIC MANICUREBefore leaving school, cosmetologists should work to get the basic manicureprocedure to(45)minutes at the most, including polishing.Give the two choices for providing clean brushes for cosmetology services. (Clean and disinfect brushes after each client.) (Purchase nail brushes in bulk and give them to clients, or throw them away after each service.)Outline the process for cleaning and disinfecting implements as part of the pre- service procedure. (Rinse all implements with warm, running water, and then thoroughly wash them with soap, a nail brush, and warm water. Brush grooved items, if necessary, and open hinged implements to scrub the area. Next, rinse away all traces of soap with warm, running water. Soap can inactivate most disinfectants, and soap rinses off most easily in warm water. Dry implements thoroughly with a clean or disposable towel, or allow them to air dry on a clean towel.)List the steps in the post-service procedure. (Advise clients and promote products. Suggest proper home care and, depending on the service provided, recommend retail products, being sureto explain why the products are important and how to use them.) (Schedule the next appointment, and thank the client. Escort the client to the front desk to set up the date, time, and services of the nextappointment, writing the information on an appointment card given to the client. Before the client leaves, offer thanks for the services.) (Record on the client consultation card all service information, products used, observations, and retail recommendations. File the card in theappropriate place.)Chapter 25 Manicuring 207 (Remove your products and tools. Clean the work area, and properly dispose of all used materials.) (Follow steps for disinfecting implements in the pre-service procedure. Reset the work area with disinfected tools.)Detail the procedure for proper hand washing. (Escort the client to the wash station and, before beginning the service, explain the salon’s or spa’s hand-washing policy and why it is performed.) (By way of demonstration for the client, turn the water on, wet your hands, and pump soap from a pump container on the palm of one hand. Rub yourhands together, all over and vigorously, until a lather forms. Continue for about 20 seconds, and rinse.) (Choose a clean nail brush, wet it, pump soap on it, and brush your nails horizontally back and forth under the free edges. Change the direction ofthe brush to vertical, and move the brush up and down along the nail folds of the fingernails. Take about 60 seconds to brush both hands. Rinse hands in running water.) (After your demonstration, give the client a clean nail brush, and instruct her to wash her hands, as well.) (Hand the client a clean towel for drying hands and inform the client what to do with the towel, or dry the client’s hands using a clean cloth or papertowel according to salon policy.) (After drying, use the towel to turn off the water and then dispose of the towel.) (Escort the client to the table while explaining that hands should be washed before every service.)According to the CDC, hand sanitizers can replace hand washing in most circumstances. True(X)False208Chapter 25 Manicuring During the manicure consultation, what qualities should the cosmetologist consider? (Hand shape.) (Finger length.) (Shape of the eponychium area.) Explain how to shape nails as part of the basic manicure procedure.(Using your abrasive board, shape the nails as you and the client have agreed. Start with the left hand, little finger, holding it between your thumb and index finger. Do not use less than a medium-grit [180] abrasive file to shape the natural nail. File from one side to the center of the free edge, then from the other side to the center of the free edge. Never use a sawing, back-and-forth motion when filing the natural nail, because doing so can disrupt the nail plate layers and cause splitting and peeling. To lessen the chance of ingrown nails, do not file into the corners of the nails. File each hand from the little fingernailto the thumb.)What does the accompanying figure depict?(This figure shows how to beststabilize the hand holding the pusher while performing a basic manicure. Balance the pinkie finger on the hand that is holding the client’s finger.)Discuss what the cosmetologist should do when performing a basic manicure on a client with yellow nails. (If the client’s nails are yellow when performing a basic manicure, you can bleach them with a nail bleach designed specifically for this purpose. Apply the bleaching agent to the yellowed nail with a cotton- tipped wooden pusher. Be careful to apply no bleach to your client’s skin, because doing so may cause irritation. Wear gloves while bleaching nails.)? Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Dino PetrocelliChapter 25 Manicuring 209Why should a cosmetologist exercise caution when buffing the nail plate during a basic manicure? (When buffing the nail plate, applying excessive pressure or buffing too long can generate excessive and painful heat on the nail bed. This can lead to onycholysis and possible infection.)List the five basic nail shapes women most often prefer. (Square.) (Squoval.) (Round.) (Oval.) (Pointed.) List the four coats of a successful nail polish application. (Base coat.) (Polish color.) (Polish color.) (Top coat.) Discuss the procedure for applying colored nail polish.(Remove the brush fromthe bottle, and wipe the side of the brush away from you on the inside of the lip of the bottle to remove excess polish. You should have a bead of polish on the end of the other side of the brush large enough to apply one layer to the entire nail plate without having to re-dip the brush (unless the nail plate is unusually long or large). Hold the brush at approximately a 30- to 35-degree angle. Place the tip of the brush on the nail 1/8-inch [ 3.5 mm] away from the cuticle area in the center of the nail. Lightly press the brush onto the nail plate, producing a slight fanning of the brush, and then push it toward theeponychium to produce a rounded posterior edge to the polish. Leave a small, rounded area of unpolished nail at the back of the nail. Pull the brush toward the free edge of the nail, down the center.)Applying nail polish layer by layer improves adhesion and staying power.(X)True False210Chapter 25 Manicuring When applying iridescent or frosted polish, the strokes should be the sidewalls of the nails to avoid shadow lines in the polish.(parallel)toA MAN’S MANICURE SERVICEA man’s manicure is executed using the basic manicure procedure, though you omit the (colored polish and buff the nails with a high-shine buffer).Square nails are the most common choice for male clients. True(X)FalseWhy must the cosmetologist prepare a man’s nails for polish carefully?( The cosmetologist must prepare a man’s nails for polish carefully becausepeeling or chipping gloss is very annoying to men.)Explain how a salon can effectively market nail services to men.(Becausemost men are new to professional nail care, include on your service menu and your Web site a brief, written description of what is included in the service and a rundown of the benefits. To target men, you may also want to distrib- ute flyers at local gyms and athletic stores, or other places where men gather. Gift certificates sold to your female clients for their boyfriends and husbands are great marketing tools. To make men feel more at home in your chair, have men’s magazines on hand and be careful that your decor is unisex. Staying open later or opening earlier on chosen days makes it easier for your male clients to schedule appointments. Many salons and spas also have a weekly or biweekly men’s night, with no women allowed, so male clients can come in without being among women.)MASSAGE62.(Massage)is the manipulation of the soft tissues of the body.The cosmetologist should always have one hand on the client’s arm or hand during massage procedures.(X)True FalseChapter 25 Manicuring 211Identify the massage movements that are usually combined to complete a massage. (Effleurage.) (Pétrissage.) (Tapotement.) (Vibration.) (Friction.) 65.(Effleurage)is a succession of strokes in which the hands glide over an area ofthe body with varying degrees of pressure or contact.What events are essential after a massage?(After performing a massage, itis essential that the nail plate be thoroughly cleaned to ensure it is free from such residues as oil, cream, wax, or lotion.)Describe the position the cosmetologist should assume before performing a hand and arm massage. (Before performing a hand and arm massage, make sure you are sitting in a comfortable position and not stretching or leaning forward toward the client. Your posture should be correct and relaxed, andyour feet should be parallel and flat on the floor.)Hand and/or arm massage is contraindicated for clients with(severe, uncontrolled hypertension).Discuss how to massage the forearm as part of the hand and arm massage procedure. (Holding the client’s wrist firmly but gently, glide your hand up the client’s arm from wrist to elbow with your palm and fingers on the skin. Be cer- tain enough lotion is on the client’s skin to allow your hand to glide smoothly. Cup your movement fingers around the arm, moving upward with slight pres- sure on the skin with your fingers, thumb, and palm to induce relaxation. Then, move back to the wrist area with lighter pressure on the skin. Perform this glid- ing movement several times. When finishing a movement each time at the top of the arm, rotate the hand to the underside of the arm while pulling the hand back toward you.)212Chapter 25 Manicuring What does the accompanying figure depict?( The accompanying figure depictsthe finger-pulls portion of the hand and arm massage.)All cosmetology licenses allow their holders to perform hand and foot massages. True(X)FalseSPA MANICURESSpa manicures require more advanced techniques than basic manicures.(X)True FalseAll spa manicures include some form of(exfoliation)not only for polishing andsmoothing the skin but also for enhancing penetration of professional products.Some products for spa manicures are chemical free. True(X)FalseIdentify the additional techniques that may be incorporated into a spa manicure. Aromatic paraffin dip.) (Hand mask.) (Warm, moist-towel applications.) ? Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. Photography by Dino PetrocelliChapter 25 Manicuring 213AROMATHERAPYThe practice of(aromatherapy)involves the use of highly concentrated, non-oily, and volatile essential oils that are extracted using various forms of distillation from seeds, bark, roots, leaves, wood, and/or resin of plants.Blended oils are safe and easy to use by people who have not studied aromatherapy in depth.(X)True FalsePARAFFIN WAX TREATMENTExplain the basic intent of paraffin wax treatments.(Paraffin wax treatments aredesigned to trap moisture in the skin while the heat causes skin pores to open. Besides opening the pores, heat from the warm paraffin increases blood circu- lation.)Special heating units melt solid wax into a gel-like liquid and maintain it at atemperature generally between(125)&(130)degrees Fahrenheit.Name the advantages of performing a paraffin wax treatment before beginning a manicure. (Allows clients to have their nails polished immediately at the end of the manicure service.) (Provides a means of pre-softening rough or callused skin.) Detail the procedure for performing a paraffin wax treatment during a manicure. (Perform the basic manicure up to the completion of the massage.) (Apply a hydrating lotion on one hand, and briefly rub it into the hand.) (Apply the paraffin with your method of choice.) (Cover the hand with a plastic bag or wrap, then a terry cloth or heated mitt.) (Repeat steps 1 through 4 on the other hand. Allow the client to relax for 5 to 10 minutes.) (Remove the paraffin mitt, and rub in the remaining lotion.) 214Chapter 25 Manicuring (Remove any remaining oils or lotions from the nail plate. Use alcohol or polish remover on a cotton-tipped wooden stick or a cotton ball. Do not allow the alcohol or polish remover on the skin or the benefits of the treatment will be lessened by the drying effects of these solvents.) (Polish or clear coat nails according to the client’s request.) Chapter 25 Manicuring 215 ................
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