The Assiniboine Basin: A Social Study of Discovery ...

[Pages:272]Martin Kavanagh (1895?1987)

Martin Kavanagh was born in 1895, in County Wicklow, Ireland. Educated at Annacurra, Wexford, Dublin and London, he came to Canada in 1923. Since that year he was Principal of Tummel Consolidated, Treherne High School, and teacher of Latin and Commercial Geography at Brandon Collegiate. He was interested in the early history of the prairies, and in preserving the story of the pioneers. He wrote two books: The Assiniboine Basin: A Social Study of Discovery, Exploration and Settlement and La Verendrye--His Life and Times.

Martin Kavanagh The Assiniboine Basin: A Social Study of Discovery, Exploration and Settlement

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This remarkable book, a history of the City of Brandon and surrounding region, was compiled by Brandon teacher and historian, Martin Kavanagh, using a wide range of sources. An initial Pioneer Edition was published in 1946, subsequently updated and reprinted in a 1967 Centennial Edition to commemorate Canada's 100th anniversary. The full text and illustrations of the original are reproduced here with the kind permission of the Kavanagh family.

Contents

1. In The Beginning. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2. The Explorers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 3. The Souris-Assiniboine Ports. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 4. Life in the Assiniboine Basin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 5. The Pemican War. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 6. The Wanderings of John Pritchard. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 7. David Thompson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 8. Alexander Henry - Fur Trader Diarist. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 9. The Mandarins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 10. John Macdonnel - Gallant Gentleman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 11. Brandon House No. 3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 12. The Half-Breed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 13. The Exploration of Henry Youle Hind, M. A.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 14. The Red River Rebellion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 15. Early Settlements and Railways. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

The Coming of the Settler 17. Nova Scotia Settlement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 18. Brandon Hills Settlement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 19. Steamboats on the Red and Assiniboine Rivers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 20. Municipal Government. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 21. First Activities of Brandon County Council. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 22. Surveying, Homesteading, Planning Brandon--First Prairie City. . 141 23. Brandon's First Citizens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 24. Reminiscences of Pioneer days. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 25. Manitoba Trails and Roads. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 26. From Village to City. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 27. Finances of a Pioneer City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 28. The Tread of Pioneers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 29. Law and Order. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 30. Early Education in the Assiniboine Basin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 31. The Manitoba School Question. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 32. The Beginning of a Prairie School System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 33. The Post Office. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 34. Fire Brigade. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 35. The Brandon General Hospital. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 36. Parks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 37. Newspapers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 38. Agricultural Societies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

THE ASSINIBOINE BASIN

CHAPTER I

IN THE BEGINNING

"IN THE BEGINNING was the Word, and the Word was with God, and the Word was God. The same was in the beginning with God. All things were made by Him, and without Him was made nothing that was made."1 ... And so it was with our continent, our country, and our Assiniboine basin. When the mountain peaks of the Rockies had arisen from an ageless sea, and the great Ice Age had swept the soils from northern tundras to the southern lowlands, in due course vast Lake Agassiz remained from melting glaciers. As it diminished in aeons of time, Hudson's inland sea and James Bay became separated from the Great Lakes and gradually there was formed a smaller Lake Agassiz, drained by rivers coursing to the Mexican Gulf and to the Arctic Ocean, and again in turn receiving waters in Lakes Winnipeg and Manitoba, and in the myriad smaller lakes which shine like opalescent diadems in our great north land. The Saskatchewan, the Churchill, the Nelson, the Red, the Qu'Appelle, and the Assiniboine still continue to drain the former floor of this great lake, and thus the site of Brandon is but the bed of an inland sea.

The History of Brandon is the story of the coming of man up these rivers and over these lakes. It is the story of his entrance into a fertile and luxuriant wilderness where wild life had already found a more than satisfying home. From the Superior to the Athabaska, from Rainy Lake to the western Red Lake of Minnesota--man progressed. He followed the Red and the Nelson, but more important to us, he decided to make his habitat in the valleys of the Qu'App elle, the Minnedosa, the Souris and the Assiniboine. Only in so far as it is necessary to the story will our narrative wander from the immediate confines of these latter rivers.

Before the Ice Age came there was in the Assiniboine area, a great and awe-inspiring treeless valley. Once without vegetation, but possibly showing reddish from its

1 St. John, Chap. I, 1-3

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THE ASSINIBOINE BASIN

iron ores, this great valley is easily viewed at Virden or at Glen Souris. It became more beautiful as increasing vegetation rendered it picturesque. The Brandon city directory for 1883 thus describes it:

"The river Assiniboine winds from side to side of a valley a mile in width. Its banks are embowered in groves of oak, ash, elm, willow, poplar and a rich variety of undergrowth. These again are fringed with meadows of luxuriant grasses. Here and there- the presence of ranker vegetation indicates a swampy situation, termed a slough. In by-gone days the trapper and hunter must have regarded this fair valley as a grand scene for their operations. These woods, swamps, river scenes, meadows and prairie slopes were then the haunt of buffalo, bear, elk, wolf, fox, skunk, beaver, badger, otter, rabbit, gopher, and chipmunk, and the resort in their season of wild goose, wild duck, teal, prairie chicken, partridge, bustard, owl, bluejay, woodpecker and chickadee. What a tumult of living nature! The picture has yet other favored proportions; the scene is sheltered from north winds by a range of hills, and on its south side by a more gentle slope, backed in the distance by the beautiful Brandon Hills, while to the east; the valley widens into a beautiful agricultural valley deservedly called the Grand Valley."

This in general describes the basins of the Souris, the Qu'Appelle, the Assiniboine-upper and -lower, and the Little Saskatchewan or Minnedosa river.

THE INDIAN

The first human arrival was the Indian. Possibly six thous and years ago the noble redman had crossed over Bering Sea from Asia. Physical conditions produced varied tribes with different characteristics. The inhabitants of the interior plains were divided into three groups. The Cree wandered over the basins of the Churchill, the Nelson, and Manitoba's greater land lakes, and beyond to the east shore of James Bay. The southern border of the Canadian Shield, if crossed, was outside his territory. The Assiniboines or Stonies lived in the basin of the Assiniboine, Souris and Qu'Appelle rivers. South and west of these were the Big Bellies or Gros Ventres and Mandans occupying the head waters of the Missouri in eastern Montana and northwestern Dakota. They spread even into southeastern Alberta, in the north and west of which were the Sarcee, and Blackfoot.

IN THE BEGINNING

3

The Cree territories, being farther north and colder, were the haunt of the greater fur-bearing animals. The country was more wild, more forested and less agricultural. While beaver and muskrat abounded, the more fierce fur bearers were found in considerable numbers.

The Assiniboine area was wild also, but it was in a sense more temperate and the animals were of the more peaceful kind like the beaver, buffalo, and antelope.

The first inhabitants of the Assiniboine basin form an interesting study. Within the scope of this work it is not possible, however, to deal with them other than in the widest manner, referring only to more important aspects.

The prairie tribes were at first only partly nomadic. They gave some attention to agriculture, especially in the cultivation of corn and plants indigenous to the soil. The main supply of food came from the buffalo and deer. Not only did these animals supply food, their sinews and skin supplied thread, clothing and tent covering.

The outlook of the Indian in the domain of religion was pantheistic. Occasions of worship supplied an opportunity for a modicum of prayer and sacrifice combined with a great deal of enjoyment. The idea of sacrifice was not elaborate. A sacred pole was hauled into the tribal circle and on it was hanged offerings to the great Manitou!1

It is difficult to obtain reliable statistics on the number of Indians on the prairies about 1800-1850. The Report of Select Committee on Hudson's Bay Company bases an estimate on the numbers visiting various forts in 1856. The results were--Fort la Corne, 300; Cumberland House, 250; The Pas, 300; Fort Pelly, 800; Fort Ellice, 500; Qu'Appelle Lakes, 250; Shell River, 150; Touchwood Hills, 300; Egg Lake, 200; Manitoba House, 200. In 1842 it was estimated that the Assiniboines numbered 3,020, and the Crees and Edmontons, 6,000. A Blue Book, in 1856, gave the number of Indians around Edmonton as 7,500; Carlton, 5,000; Fort Pitt, 7,000; Rocky Mountain House, 6,000. The total population for Rupert's Land is given at 42,870.2

1 Eileen Jenness, The Indian Tribes of Canada, p. 4. Toronto: Ryerson Press, 1933. 2 Henry Youle Hind--Report--pp. 114, 115.

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THE ASSINIBOINE BASIN

An account, taken from Mackenzie's "Voyages," of the religious ceremonies of the Knisteneaux Indians, some of whom lived in the area round "Lake Winipic," is interest ing. (The italics are ours.)

"The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge of the person who performs it, which is prepared for that purpose, by removing everything out of it and spreading green branches in every part. The fire and ashes are also taken away. A new hearth is made of fresh earth and another fire is lighted. The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it; and he begins the ceremony by spreading a piece of new cloth, on a well-dressed mooseskin neatly painted, on which he opens his medicine bag and exposes its contents, consisting of various articles. The principal of them is a kind of household god, which is a small carved image about eight inches long. Its first covering is of down, over which a piece of birch-bark is closely tied, and the whole is enveloped in several folds of red and blue cloth. This little figure is an object of the most pious regard. The next article is his war cap, which is decorated with the feathers and plumes of scarce birds, beavers' and eagles' claws, etc. There is also suspended from it a quill or feather for every enemy whom the owner of it has slain in battle. The remaining contents of the bag are, a piece of Brazil tobacco, several roots and simples, which are in great estimation for their medicinal qualities, and a pipe. These articles being all exposed, and the stem resting upon two forks, as it must not touch the ground, the master of the lodge sends for the person he most esteems, who sits down opposite to him; the pipe is then filled and fixed to the stem. A pair of wooden pincers is provided to put the fire in the pipe and a double-pointed pin, to empty it of the remnant of tobacco which is not consumed. This arrangement being made, the men assemble, and sometimes the women are allowed to be humble spectators, while the most relig ious awe and solemnity pervades the whole. The Machiniwais, or Assistant, takes up the pipe, lights it, and presents it to the officiating person, who receives it standing and holds it between both his hands. He then turns himself to the east, and draws a few whiffs which he blows to that point. The same ceremony he observes to the other three quarters, with his eyes directed upwards during the whole of it. He holds the stem about the middle between the three first fingers of both hands, and raising them upon a line with his forehead, he swings it three times round from the east, with the sun, when after pointing and balancing it in various directions he reposes it on the forks: he then makes a speech to explain the design of their being called together, which concludes with an acknowledgment of past mercies, and a prayer for the continuance of them, from the Master of Life. He then sits down, and the whole company declare their approbation and thanks by uttering the word Ho! with an emphatic prolongation of the last letter. The Machiniwais then takes up the pipe, and holds it to the mouth of the officiating person, who, after

IN THE BEGINNING

5

smoking three whiffs out of it. utters a short prayer, and then goes round with it, taking his course from east to west to every person present, who individually says something to him on the occasion; and thus the pipe is generally smoked out; when after turning it three or four times round his head, he drops it downwards, and replaces it in its original situation. He then returns the company thanks for their attendance, and wishes them, as well as the whole tribe, health and long life.

"It is proper also to remark that at (their ceremonial) feasts a small quantity of meat or drink is sacrificed before they begin to eat by throwing it into the fire or on the earth."1

That the Indians were simple children of Nature their months of the Indian Year according to Alexander Mackenzie show:

May--Frog moon. June--The moon in which the birds begin to lay their eggs. July--The moon when the birds cast their feathers. August--The moon when young birds begin to fly. September--The moon when the moose deer cast their horns. October--The Rutting moon. November--Hoar-Frost moon. Ice moon. December--Whirlwind moon. January--Extreme cold moon. February--Big moon--some say Old moon. March--Eagle moon. April--Goose moon.2

Into this quiet pastoral and limited nomadic life the horse came from Mexico about 1750. It was the Iron Horse which changed England from a pastoral to an industrial country. The horse of flesh and blood changed the North American Indian into a nomad, whose life now became subject to raid and counter raid by Gros Ventre, Stonie and Cree. In this land of the tomahawk, the white man was soon to appear. His course was typical of all colonizations; first came the explorer, next the trader, accompanied generally by a missionary and then the soldier. The Assiniboine basin was no exception. It followed the general rule.

1 The Trail Makers, Vol. 1, Voyages, Mackenzie, pp. CLI. New York: Barnes Co. 2 Ibid. CLVII.

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