CANADIAN WILLOWHERB - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Active ingredients

CANADIAN WILLOWHERBTM

Native American Multifunctional Extract

Epilobium angustifolium extract Fast-relief of skin irritations

Canadian WillowherbTM a plant extract used by Native Americans to soothe the skin.

% Growth inhibition

Efficacy on p. acnes growth

100

95%

97%

100%

90

80

70

61%

60

68%

56%

50

40

30

20

10

0

30 min.

60 min.

120 min.

1% CW

2% CW

Superoxide free radical absorption

100

90

80

79%

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0 Trolox

(Vit. E) 2%

91%

SOD 2%

97%

98%

Ascorbic CW 2% Acid 2%

Peroxyl radical absorption

10 000 9 000 8 000 7 000 6 000 5 000 4 000 3 000 2 000 1 000

0

Trolox (Vit. E) 2%

Ascorbic Acid 2%

CW 2%

Since time immemorial, Native Americans have used liquid extracts from Canadian WillowherbTM (Epilobium angustifolium) for numerous applications such as an intestinal astringent, healing burns and soothing skin irritations. Canadian WillowherbTM (CW) comes from northern Canadian Prairies plants that have developed strong phytochemical properties to survive the harsh climate. Epilobium angustifolium is a fire succession plant which means it is among the first plants to regrow after a fire. The plants used for Canadian WillowherbTM are harvested manually by local communities in the northern Canadian Prairies.

Canadian WillowherbTM contains bioactive molecules such as oenothein B which has 5-a-reductase inhibitory activity, anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties.

Canadian WillowherbTM is a multifunctional active. Its primary function is as a nonsteroidal anti-irritant ingredient. In vitro experiments have demonstrated free radical scavenging ability. In addition, Canadian WillowherbTM shows strong antibacterial activity on P. acnes. Its anti-irritant and redness reduction properties have been clinically demonstrated, showing a strong reduction of skin redness induced by chemicals or UV exposure within 30 minutes of use.

ANTIMICROBIAL EFFECT

The bacteria responsible for inflamed acne breakouts is Propionibacteria acnes (P. acnes). It is generally harmless but when pores become engorged with excess oil and dead skin cells, it creates an environment where P. acnes can excessively grow. P. acnes triggers inflammation within the pore, creating a papule, pimple, or cyst. Reducing the P. acnes population is an important step in controlling acne.

Canadian WillowherbTM clearly inhibits P. acnes growth contributing to a better acne control.

EFFECT ON FREE RADICALS

The skin is regularly exposed to UV radiation and air pollution. These exposures induce the production of highly volatile molecules called free radicals. Oxidative stress breaks down protein (collagen), alters cellular renewal cycles, damages DNA giving rise to wrinkles and sagging skin, and promotes the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, which trigger the generation of inflammatory skin diseases.

Canadian WillowherbTM is as a free radical scavenger. Its efficacy is comparable to the ascorbic acid on superoxyde free radicals but without the unwanted side effects of formulating with ascorbic acid.

Compared to Trolox (hydrosoluble version of vitamin E) and ascorbic acid, Canadian WillowherbTM has a greater scavenging efficacy on peroxyl radicals.

Canadian WillowherbTM reduces the formation of free radicals like superoxide and peroxyl, thus reducing damages enduced by oxidative stress.

% Superoxide absorption

Peroxyl radical absorption (mol Trolox eq/mol)

REDUCING SKIN REDNESS

Test protocol

- 8 consumers (women, 18 to 60 years old) with skin types I-III. - Application of 15% lactic acid for 4 hours to induce redness and irritation. - Application of 3% Canadian WillowherbTM or 1% hydrocortisone lotion. - Redness measurement after 30 minutes, 1 hour, and 24 hours.

(a* value determination using chromametry)

Canadian WillowherbTM reduces skin redness within 30 minutes of use and has better results than the reference anti-irritant agent hydrocortisone.

Test protocol

- 7 consumers (women, 18 to 60 years old) with skin types I-III. - Application of 3% Canadian WillowherbTM or placebo 24 hours after UV irradiation

(1.5 X MED). - Redness measurement after 4 hours. (a* value determination using chromametry)

Canadian WillowherbTM reduces skin redness induced by UV exposure.

IMPROVING ACNE-PRONE SKIN

Test protocol

- 63 consumers (18 to 40 years old) with acne-prone skin (not taking an anti-acne treatment during the study).

- Application of the "anti-acne cream" with 2% Canadian WillowherbTM and 2% KollarenTM, 2x/day, during 8 weeks.

Test results

BENEFITS

RESULTS AFTER 4 WEEKS

The product removes excess sebum

82%

The product provides a freshness sensation

80%

The skin is clearer

72%

The product prevents the occurrence of blemishes

72%

The product removes impurities

68%

BENEFITS The skin is not shiny The skin is smoother

RESULTS AFTER 8 WEEKS

76%

72%

The product leaves the skin more beautiful

72%

The skin looks healthier

70%

The skin is mattified

64%

Consumers experience a reduction in blemishes and their skin is clearer in just 4 weeks. Consumers agree that acne spots are less visible for a mattified, smoother, and healthier looking skin.

% Erythema reduction

% Erythema reduction

Efficacy on chemically induced skin erythema

30

27%

25

24%

23%

24%

20

15

14%

14%

10

5

0

30 min.

1 h

24 h

Time after application

1% hydrocortisone 3% CW

Efficacy on uv-induced erythema

30 25 20 15 10

5 0 -5

Untreated

Placebo

25% Reduction

3% CW

Canadian WillowherbTM is the best active to rapidly soothe the skin and reduce redness.

Product description

INCI NAME CANADIAN WILLOWHERBTM 5C PF Glycerin (1) (and) Water (2) (and) Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/ Stem Extract (3)

CANADIAN WILLOWHERBTM 5% CLEAR Water (2) (and) Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (3)

CAS 56-81-5 (1), 7732-18-5 (2), 90028-31-2 (3)

EINECS 200-289-5 (1), 231-791-2 (2), 289-821-5 (3)

APPEARANCE Transparent to slightly cloudy amberbrown solution (may contain few particles in suspension)

FORMULATION Should be incorporated at the end of the formulation at a temperature of 35/40?C.

DOSAGE 1-3%

OPTIMUM pH 4.3-5.5

APPLICATIONS - Anti-irritant - Skin soothing - Anti-acne - Anti-redness - Baby care - Sensitive skin - Hair growth - Sun care - Men's care - Postdermatological treatment

COSMOS STATUS Canadian WillowherbTM 5C PF is registered

CHINA-COMPLIANT

Features and benefits

FEATURES Unique Canadian plant

Contains bioactive molecule oenothein B Multi-functional

Strong clinical results

BENEFITS

Harvested manually by local communities in the northern Canadian Prairies. Has developed strong phytochemical properties to survive the harsh climate

Inhibits 5-a-reductase and P. acnes

Can be used for anti-irritant and soothing care, for acneprone skin, after sun care

Fast relief of skin irritation within 30 minutes of use and has better results than the reference anti-irritant agent hydrocortisone

Anti-acne cream

INGREDIENTS A Water

Glycerin GlucamTM E-20 Tinovis CD

B SchercemolTM CO UCON Fluid AP Lipex Shea WL BPD-500W

Lipex Omega EPO d-Delta-Rich Tocopherol Concentrate C Neomekkins-M16

KollarenTM PS 100ppm Canadian WillowherbTM 5% Clear Parfum Eclat SG 30533 Sodium Hydroxide (10% solution)

INCI NAMES

Water Glycerin Methyl Gluceth-20 Dimethylacrylamide/Ethyltriamonium Chloride Methacrylate Copolymer (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 (and) C10-C11 Isoparaffin Cetyl Ethylhexanoate PPG-14 Butyl Ether Shea Butter Oleyl Esters HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica Vegetable Oil (and) Oenothera Biennis Oil Tocopherol

Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben Water (and) Dextran (and) Tripeptide-1 Water (and) Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/ Leaf/Stem Extract Fragrance Sodium Hydroxide/Water

% qsp 2.00 2.00 2.00

4.00 6.00 4.00 0.90

2.00 0.10

0.70

2.00 2.00

0.01 0.03

Litho Canada | 2019-09

This brochure is not intended for consumers and neither this brochure nor any extract thereof shall be used in order to commercialize products to consumers. No drawing, photograph or other extract derived from this brochure shall be used by any person without our prior written approval. As well, no claim with respect to the ingredient referred to in this brochure shall be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the claim is set forth in this brochure. The person using the ingredient referred to in this brochure in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of the ingredient, the finished products marketed to consumers, their packaging, labelling and advertising materials and the claims made with respect to the finished products and the ingredient comply with all applicable laws and regulations. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of the ingredient referred to in this brochure for any purpose. Any prospective user of the ingredient shall himself determine the suitability of the ingredient for his intended use and, as the case may be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products.

LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS S.A.S.

ZA les Belles Fontaines 99 route de Versailles 91160 Champlan - France T: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 69 - F: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 70

LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS CANADA INC.

Place de la cit?, tour Belle Cour 2590, boul. Laurier, #650 Qu?bec (Qu?bec) G1V 4M6 Canada T: +1 418 653-6888 - F: +1 418 653-6005

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