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HSC TEXTILES & DESIGN 1. DESIGNFABRIC COLOURATION AND DECORATIONPRINTINGTypes of printing + methodsDirectWarp => print the warp yarns and weave them with weft yarns Block => self-explanatoryRoller => rollers are engraved with designs, coloured, then applied to the fabricHeat transfer Specially printed paper is heated at a high temperature and the design is transferred to the fabric using pressureDigitalPrinting directly onto the fabric using inkjet technology and CADDischargeCompleted after the fabric has been dyed; the print paste contains a chemical that destroys the dye molecules and discharges the dyeResistIkat printing => binding the yarns at intervals along the length of the yarn, the design is then printed/painted onto the yarn, and then woven togetherRotary screen printing => same as screen printing but continuousMachine or flatbed screen printing => instead of making the screens by hand, photographs of the design are taken, and a screen is made by a computerHand or manual screen printing => a screen is made for each colour being used, frame is then placed on a printing bed and a squeegee is used to force the printing paste into the fabricStencil => uses a resist as acetate, plastic or masking tape; the design is usually then coloured with spongesBatik => fabric is stamped or drawn on with wax, it is then dyed, the wax is scraped away to leave a design In the past, screen printing has been the most common form of printing. In the last few decades the amount of digital printing has increased dramatically. It is far quicker and more sustainable and thus is becoming increasingly popular.Principles of printingPrinting bed should have a soft resistPrinting past should be viscosePrint tool is to be pushed directly and firmlyHeat setWashedSublimation => the change from solid to gas without passing through the liquid state; this principle is used in heat transfer printing because it means the fabric does not have to be ‘wetted out’Theory of printingWithin the printing paste, forces of repulsion are developed (the dye is repulsed by the printing paste and therefore wants to go into the fabric)Forces of attraction are developed between the dye molecules and the textile fibresRole of the thickener => called the printing paste, produces a medium for the dye base, the uniform consistency is called viscosity which is important because it impacts the clarity and appearance of printed patternsRole of the mordant => a chemical that can help assist bind a dye molecule to a fibre for which it otherwise has little or no affinityDYEINGProcess of imparting colours to a textile material through a dyeTypes of dyeing + methodsFoam dyeingEconomical and environmentally friendly because it uses less waterArtistic dyeingCreates a pattern of colour by preventing the dye from reaching certain areas (e.g. tie dye)Batch dyeing (exhaust dyeing)Circulated through a dye bath; low cost and flexible in terms of colour and temperatureWinch dyeingFabric is sewn together at the ends and lifted out of the bath by a reelJig dyeingTwo rolls situated above the dye bath, fabric is carried around on rolls and rolled back and forth through the bath; good for large amounts of fabricPad dyeingFabric is run through the dye bath where rollers pressure pad the surface, forcing the dye into the fabric, then heat set; economical because more can be dyed using less dyeCombination dyeingJet dyeing => uses jet propulsion to achieve maximum dye penetration; suitable for fine fabricsPaddle dyeing => both the dyes and paddles circulate in the dye bath to gain maximum dye penetrationContinuous dyeing => wet out, dye, treat, wash and rinse in a continuous machine; used for longs runs of fabric Principles of dyeingThe quantity of dye is made by dissolving the dye stuff in a quantity of waterThe fibre, yarn or fabric is wetted out (made more absorbent by treating with a wetting agent)Immersed in the dye liquorAgitated Migration occurs => the dye liquor loses its colour and the dye molecules end up in the textilesDiffusion => the dye molecules diffuse into the amorphous regions of the fibres Stages of dyeingHow it is achievedAdvantagesDisadvantagesPre-fibreSolution or dope dyeingGood for hard to dye fibresOutstanding colourfastnessUniform colourHigh costOnly available for manufactured fibresFibreStock dyeing (loose fibres are dyed before spinning)Good dye penetrationHigh qualityHigh costFibre dye uptake can varyYarnThe yarns are wrapped on beams or cones and then submerged in dye vatsHigh qualityUsed to create patterned fabricsGood dye penetrationHigh costFabricPiece dyeingCan be cross dyed => a fabric made from two different fibres uses the properties of affinity and resistance of the dye to create patterns Can be union dyed => goal is to achieve even colouring in the fabricProduces solid colour fabricsLower costQuick responses to fashion trends can be madeRequires well prepared materialsExcellent knowledge of dyeing is required to achieve a satisfactory outcomeProductApparel or finished productsCheapest processQuick responses to fashion trends can be madeRequires well prepared materialsSeams or layered areas may have uneven penetrationAPPLIQUETechnique of applying fabric shapes to a fabric backingVariety of fabrics can be used to add texture and interestNormal or reverseHand or machineEMBROIDERYEmbellishing a base fabric with yarnsHand, machine or computerised machine made especially for embroideryCreates texture and interestHISTORICAL DESIGN DEVELOPMENT => SWIMWEARPre-1900NSW government prohibited swimming in the harbour from sunrise to sunsetWomen were not allowed to swim in publicIf men went swimming, they wore a one-piece wool flannel suit from neck to knee1900sPeople began defying the ‘no daytime swimming’ lawsWomen wore bloomers with a woollen overdress, sewed weights into the hem, wore black stockings and lace up shoesMen and women swam in separate areas at the beachAnnette Kellerman was arrested for wearing a one-pieceSwimsuit challenged society’s concept of morality1910sDesire to sunbathe rather than swim brought more fitted swim suits (still made from wool)1920sPeople were flocking to the beaches in the thousandsLaws regulated what could be wornSkin-tight tubular swimsuits made from wool jersey which bared the arms and backs became popular1930sLife savers bared their chests for the first timeMovie stars were used to promote swimwear designsNecklines became lower, hemlines higher, cut-out sections were popularShoulder straps could be lowered for sunbaking1940sBikini was patented by ReardCorsets and bra cups were built into swimmers to create shapeWWII 10% fabric reduction1950sNew swimming pool culture developedAcceptable to sit and sunbake but not get wet1960sLycra and nylon were introduced, which gave stretch and made zippers in the back uselessElastic was used round the edges to hold them in place1970sAustralia became a leader in bikini designsSurf culture evolved with its own music, values and surf brand clothing1980sEverything became acceptable, from one-pieces to bikinis to wetsuits and tan through fabricCULTURAL FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE DESIGN AND DESIGNERS => THE HMONGTEXTILE PRODUCTIONrelates to raw materials, fibres, yarns and fabrics produced by a particular cultureMaterialsHemp, cotton, ramie, sometimes silk, indigo plants WeavingTwo types of looms: combination back-strap and foot treadle technique, or more modern mechanical self-tensioning wooden loomNarrow bands of fabric are stitched together to make garments specially designed for the narrow fabric width Dyeing Indigo dyeingBlack Hmong are famous for thisUsed to colour skeins of cotton yarn and fabricDepending on how deep they want the colour to be, the process can take up to a monthBatik dyeing Wax resist method of dyeingArtist draws on white fabric with a charcoal pencil then goes over it with a bamboo pen with a copper nib dipped in melted waxFabric is soaked in dye, vat is heated, wax melts off, leaving the white designTEXTILE ART FORMSArtistic or creative expression of ideas through a textile medium; unique to a culture because they are influenced by geographical location, technological developments, available resources, religious practices, workers’ skill, statusEvolved over hundreds of yearsIncludes belts, baby carriers, jackets, sashes, skirts, tunics, leggings, hats, turbans, headdresses and ‘story cloths’Main colours are natural undyed fabrics and indigo ranging from black to blueContrast and focal points are created through bright colours, applique, reverse applique and dyeing Functional to protect from the coldClothingSkirt (women)Voluminous pleated skirt that reaches below the knee, most with about 200 pleatsTop section is usually plain, centre section is the widest (Blue Hmong decorate it with batik and indigo dye), bottom is the most decorated with bright cross stitch and embroideryPleats are stiffened with a mix of rice starch and water which is poured over the skirt and left for up to a monthOnly worn on special occasions Jacket (men and women)Embellished with decorate panels and an embroidered collar at the backBlue Hmong usually make it from black cotton but on special occasions velvet is usedCollars are rectangular and made using reverse applique and embroideryWomen’s clothingTrousers or a black apron over the skirt for everyday wear Festive aprons are elaborately embellished and have brightly coloured ties with long tassels at the backWhite Hmong women wear a black apron trimmed with blue; they also have an embellished festive bib apron with long magenta tassels at the backMen’s clothing Trousers are Chinese in style and so full that they resemble a long skirtWide sashes (up to 6 m) are wrapped around the bodyStory clothPictorial embroideryHmong men drew traditional Hmong stories so that they would be remembered, and Hmong women embroidered them onto clothInclude stories, daily life of Hmong culture, and a record of their experience during the Vietnam war and their escape to Thailand ‘Kawm Ntaub Kawm Ntawu’ = ‘Learn the cloth, learn the story’AS A MEDIUM FOR SELF-EXPRESSION AND COMMUNICATIONYoung Hmong people of marriageable age wear the most elaborate clothing; fabric border strip on the Hmong skirt is wider for teenage girls allowing for more embroidery, and the mothers of bachelors take special care making their clothes in the hope they will be attractive to girls Motifs are based on plant and animal life around their villages: tiger paw prints, to represent the spirit imprints; butterflies, to represent the souls of the dead; tortoises, to bring advice from the spirit world; a fish hook, to represent a young girl’s hope of finding a suitorThe paj ndau, with its distinctive colours and designs, is how women show their tribal group, wealth, diligence and availability for marriage CULTURAL FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE DESIGN Geographic location South-East AsiaVillages located on gradual mountain slopesLand is terraced to allow for crop cultivationLand is poor for farmingResourcesSurrounding jungle provides raw materials Main fibres are hemp, cotton, ramie and sometimes silkEach family has their own plot of hemp and indigo With improved roads, many Hmong now travel to markets to purchase fabricsTechnological developmentsMost families have a sewing machinePrinted fabrics that resemble intricate woven, batik and embroidered designs are sold; much cheaper and faster to produceWith increased accessibility, Western-style dress is starting to be worn Religious practicesIsolation means that they have been unaffected by large religionsReligion relates to the natural environment and the spirits that affect themThey believe that everything is born and has a spirit (whether animate or not)Apparel items, designs and colours all have spiritual significanceRed topknot on hats defends against illness, injury or deathBaby carries are embellished with red, yellow and pink embroidery to protect against bad spiritsFuneral robes specific to the tribe dress the dead so that their ancestors can recognise and claim themWearing old clothes on New Year’s Day is thought to bring poverty, so the finest clothing is worn at the festivalWorkers’ skill and statusWomen produce clothing, men make tools and utensils, blacksmiths and silversmiths are importantTraditionally, the Hmong have not considered their textile crafts as marketable but this is changing as tribal handicrafts are now valued on the world marketPerceived value is increasing as people come to value the immense amount of skill and work that goes into the garmentsOrganisations that promote their craftwork: Thai Craft Fair Trade Company, Artisans of Asia and Thai Tribal Crafts EXTERNAL FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE DESIGNEconomyVery independent in their remote villages, so are not directly affected by the economy of the country in which they liveAs transport and communication systems improve they are coming into greater contact with the outside world, resulting in increased education for their children and opportunities to sell their productsPolitical lifeEach tribe is autonomous and has their own territoryAfter WWII, the Thai government tried to support them, but it was difficult to involve them in politics due to their isolation, and thus many tribes feel as if they don’t belong in the state; this is improving with younger generations who have more access to educationSocial lifeFamily unit is importantAs is respect for ageMen and women both work in the fields but it is the women’s role to produce textile items (including processing fibre into yarn and cloth, then stitching and embellishing the final item)EcologyThey live closely with the land and understand the importance of living in harmonySlash-and-burn agriculture then moving on and allowing the fields to reforest keeps deforestation to a minimum Shifting cultivation is the reason for their semi-migratory way of lifeCONTEMPORARY DESIGNERS => AKIRA ISOGAWASOURCES OF INSPIRATIONArtwork from a range of culturesAspects of Japanese culture and arts, including kimono shapes, folding, layering and fabric origamiInnovative fabrics, distressing, heat-setting with foils, knittingCollaborative partnerships with other arts such as danceNatural fibres such as wool, silk and cottonsDistressed fabrics => gives the feeling of already ‘being loved’ thus evoking emotion, reusing vintage textilesEast meets West => vintage kimono fabrics in Western and contemporary Japanese designs, his native Japanese heritage which is reinterpreted through the relaxed Australian environmentINTERNAL FACTORSExpertiseWhen he first started in the industry, he managed everything himselfStudied fashion design at the Sydney Institute of TechnologyOpened his first boutique in 1993Has been featured at Australian Fashion week every year since 1996FacilitiesNow has a workroom which hires upwards of 15 workersCreated jobs for specialised work like beading and embroideryTo remain competitive, he must partially manufacture overseasFinancialInitially a self-financed ventureTaught him the importance of minimising costsEXTERNAL FACTORSPoliticalAustralian Fashion Week showcases work to overseas buyers, leading to increase in export sales and domestic demand for local labelsLegislation => government assistance received by CSIRO allowed them to develop machine washable wool which Akira has used in his designsEconomicalOutsourcing of manufacture allows his business to stay competitiveSocialEvolution of Japanese culture into contemporary garmentsReflects Australian society and culture, but blends styles and expresses the importance of multiculturalismEcologicalConcentrates on natural fibresLoves to recycle and reuse vintage kimono fabricsTechnologicalAkira maintains a website where consumers can view recent work and contact the closest boutique where his work is soldImports fabrics that utilise cutting edge technology => 2003, Akira worked with Sclaepfer textile house to create laser-cut calico with a floral design motif which he made into a contemporary wedding dress 2. PROPERTIES AND PERFORMANCE OF TEXTILESEND-USE APPLICATIONSHow the fibre, yarn and fabric (and potentially fabric finish) come together to make a suitable end product. FibresCotton => durable, comfortable, highly absorbent, cool because it conducts heat well, breathes easily, relatively inelastic, can be bleachedWool => matte, exceptional drape, durable, weak, absorbent, elongation, warm because it doesn’t conduct heat, resilient, self-extinguishingRayon => lustrous, drapes well, absorbent, cool because it conducts heat, sun resistantPolyester => universal blender because it lends properties without detracting from the other fabric, good drape, abrasion resistant, relatively strong, poor absorbency, uncomfortable because moisture doesn’t escape, feels cool against skin, good dimensional stability, resistant to biological attackNylon => good drape, excellent abrasion resistance, strong due to crystalline structure, uncomfortable because moisture can’t escape, thermoplasticity, resilient, dimensional stability, elastic, resistant to biological attackYarnStaple spun (staple fibres like cotton or cut manufactured fibres) => uneven, weak, poor durability, good elasticity, resilient, absorbentMonofilament => fine, strong, good lustre, durable, inelastic, poor resiliency, not absorbentMultifilament => even, strong, good lustre, durable, slightly absorbent, medium elasticity, medium resilienceLow twist => soft, hairy, low lustre, weak, poor abrasion resistance, good insulation, slow dryingHigh twist => firm, smooth, good lustre, resilient, strong, good abrasion resistance, poor insulation, quick drying, elasticFabricWeaves Plain => least expensive, even and flat texture, poor resilience, less absorbentTwill => heavier, most durable (used for work clothes)Satin => poor strength, lustrous, good drapeSateen => lustrous, poor strength, long floats may snagJacquard (used to make patterns like in brocade and tapestry)Pile (decorative and three dimensional)Crepe => uneven and pebbly textureKnitsSingle knit => jersey knits are elastic, unravel, easily distorted and have low drapeDouble knit => smooth surface can be printed on, less elasticPile knit (includes terry cloth, fake fur and fleecy)Tricot (used in underwear and sportswear) => good drape, elastic, edges don’t ravel or curl, stable, resilientRaschelLaceNetNon-woven => quick and cheap production, doesn’t fray or unravel, stiff, poor drape, inelastic, resilient, dimensional stability, disposable FeltChemically bondedThermobondedMechanically bondedHydrotanglingFilm (pleather, vinyl)Textile itemCompositionBusiness shirt60% polyester and 40% cotton => crease resistant, heat conducting, strong fibre blend, easy care, resilientHigh twist staple and multifilamentPlain weave => cost effective, strongPermanent Press finish => cellulose fibres tend to crush and wrinkle and this minimises that for ease of care Sports shirtPolyester microfibreHigh twist multifilamentKnitMoisture wicking technology finish Winter jacketWoolStaple woollen/worsted Twill weaveSuperwash wool finish Evening dressSilkHigh twist multifilament Satin weave Theatre seatsWoolWorstedTwill weave Business suitCotton/polyester or wool/polyesterHigh twist stapleTwill weave Bed sheetsCottonLow twist staplePlain weave Ski jacketNylonMedium twist multifilamentPlain weaveAnti-static finishLounge coverPolyester/cotton => durable, strong, non-absorbent, hard and stiff handleTwill weave => durable and strongAnti-pilling finish => smoother, tighter and stronger fabricDance leotardCotton/lycra => elastic, durable, strong, absorbent, comfortable against the skinPlain weave => comfortable in hot weather, cheaper, durableStain resistant finish => resists oils in the human skin and perspirationWall hangingSilk => good lustre, drape and colourfastness High twist stapleSatin weave => good lustre and dimensional stability Anti-microbial finish => prevents the silk from being damaged TentPolyester/cotton => strong, durable, hydrophobic, insulation, good sunlight resistanceHigh twist multifilament Twill weave => strong, dense, opaqueMildew and rot proofing finish, hydrophobic finish INNOVATIONS AND EMERGING TEXTILE TECHNOLOGIESMICROFIBRESA synthetic fibre finer than one denier.CharacteristicsExceptional strength although the filaments are super fineImproved breathabilityVivid prints with more clarity and sharper contrastComfortable like natural fibresDurableEasy to cleanAppearance retentionCan be made windproof and water resistantExcellent drapeLight weightEnd usesCleaning products (extremely absorbent, lifts and locks the dirt without pushing and scattering, does not scratch)InsulationMedical textilesApparelSportswear (spaces between the fibres are large enough for water vapour to escape, but small enough it is wind and water proof from the outside)Impact on…AdvantagesDisadvantagesConsumerSuitable for travel as it’s lightweight and resilientProvides greater coverage and wind resistance due to finenessEasy to care for, fast dryingEasily dyedIncredibly efficient (cotton-loop mop reduces floor bacteria by 30% while a microfibre mop reduced it by 99%)ExpensiveConcerning to environmentally aware consumersConsumer confusion (may not understand the technology)May be falsely marketed and thus result in the consumer being ripped offManufacturerCan be produced to specific end usesFabric finish can improve performance and success in the marketplaceExpensive to establish machineryEmployees must be trained to use machineryReduces market for other fibresEmployeeMore high skilled job opportunities with new technologyStructural unemployment (workers being replaced with machines)Hazards like dust, noise and chemicalsEnvironmentNot dependent on natural resourcesReplacement for paper towel in kitchens which reduces land fill Production requires machinery (noise, energy and air pollution)Transport vehiclesCarbon dioxide expulsionWater waste and chemical residueBICOMPONENT YARNS Consists of two filaments, staples or natural fibres that are chemically or physically different. Two kinds of polymers are extruded together and spun as a multifilament, which creates a crimp when exposed to heat due to their different natures, and the filament curls into a wave-like configuration.CharacteristicsBy co-extruding two polymers into a single yarn, the properties of both are combined and provide benefits to the textile itemThermal bondingSelf-bulkingVery fine fibresUnique cross sections (concentric sheath, eccentric sheath, side by side, pie wedge, islands in the sea)End usesMicrofibresConductive fibresAntimicrobial textilesAutocrimp fibresElastic fibresCompositesNon-wovensImpact on…AdvantagesDisadvantagesConsumerGood for stretchImproved technology reduces manufacture time, reducing production costs and an increase in supplyFabrics made solely from them are not always visually appealingManufacturerDesirable factors that consumers will purchaseHigh market shares due to high demand. When manufacturing colour items, the concentrate is needed only for the outer component, thus reducing costsExpense of developing fibre componentsEmployees must be trained to use machineryAdditional processing time and equipment increases costs and capital expenses of setting up new machineryEmployeeChance to be trained in new innovative techniquesMore high-level job opportunitiesLess pay due to decreased skillDecrease in human interactionChanges to work practices may reduce job opportunitiesEnvironmentMany can be recycled Large number of chemicals usedNot biodegradable thus leading to landfillWASHABLE WEBSRefers to fabric manufactured from non-woven sources. Made of parallel laid, cross laid or randomly laid webs bonded with application of adhesive or thermoplastic fibres under application of heat and pressure.CharacteristicsEasy to sewCrease resistantDoesn’t frayStable when washed or dry cleanedLight to heavy in weightDurableAbrasion resistantHighly absorbentEnd usesApparel => interfacing, insulation, bra and shoulder paddingNon-apparel => nappies, industrial filters, teabag covers, environmental bagsSpecialised => medical textiles (masks, gowns, surgical equipment) and army apparel (tents, shelters, uniforms)Impact on…AdvantagesDisadvantagesConsumerLow costDoesn’t frayCrease resistantStable to washingMostly single useNot very strongManufacturerCheap to produceCan be combined with other fibresLow durabilityEmployeeEasier, less labour-intensive work due to technologyCAD and CAM mean less manual felting CAD and CAM may mean low skilled workers become redundantEnvironmentNon-woven bags have replaced plastic bags and last far longerWaste and landfillMedical textiles (single use)Disposable but not recyclable (27.4 billion nappies go to landfill in US)SYMCAD 3D BODY SCANNING TECHNOLOGYDigitises the body in 3D shape. The body is scanned in and accurate measurements are obtained. Designed for made-to-measure clothing. Machine can measure up to 50 people in 1 hour.AdvantagesDisadvantagesTime savingLow set up costConsistent measurement databaseConsistency in uniform productionImprovement in garment fitReduces cost of alterationsReduces time spent trying on different sizesCompact mobile machineAdaptable to new technologiesNo need for skilled tailors thus leading to a loss of job opportunities and skilled workCOMPUTER LINKED SEWING MACHINEControlled by computer. The pattern, information on stitch types and their positioning are entered into the computer which the uses this information to control the sewing process.Advantages DisadvantagesCNC machinesEase of useLow training costsHigh productionCostly to set upLoss of jobsHome machinesAllows industrial production in one’s own homeEndless possibilities for embroideryAbility to create unique and professional itemsExpensiveSEAMLESS TECHNOLOGYHas been used mainly for intimates but is gaining attention in other areas. Machines produce garments with minimal finishing steps. Weft knitting machines can also be used and garments are created on body-sized circular knitting machines. Used in apparel, sportswear, swimwear, underwear and medical textiles.AdvantagesDisadvantagesElastic waistbands and lace effects can be included in the knittingComfortableCombines different textures and levels of compression Better fitDesigns not limited by seamsFewer visible lines under clothingNo seam failures leading to faulty productsMinimises labourPatterns and logos can be knitted into the garmentCannot alter seams or sizing of garmentsHaving no seams may limit aestheticHigher priceMore difficult to make alterations DIGITAL PRINTINGAct of printing digital files onto fabric with the printing process working much like an inkjet printer. End uses include apparel, furnishings, textile art and non-apparel.AdvantagesDisadvantagesMore complex effects can be producedLow start-up costsCarrying of stock is not required because they can be printed on demandNo limit of coloursNo minimum print runsFast and accurateNo need to reprint each colour like in screen printingEasy to alter the design because it is computerisedFast production speedPhotographic qualityDesign size is limited to the size of the printerFabric outside the printable area is wastedAIRDYEDisperse dyes are applied to a paper carrier. Heat is then applied to transfer the dyes from the paper to the fabric at a molecular level.Advantages DisadvantagesUses 90% less waterUses 85% energyTransfer paper is reusableDyes are inert (can return to the original state and be reused)More colourfastCan print on both sides of the fabricCost efficientDoes not require post-processes like steaming and washingCan only use synthetic materialsNANOTECHNOLOGYInvolves the implementation and manipulation of technology at a nanoscale in order to create textiles with highly advanced beneficial properties. Can scientifically replicate the natural water-repellence of plant surfaces and animal coats and essentially produce a stain and water-resistant textile. This is achieved by embedding the fabric with billions of miniscule fibres known as ‘nanowhiskers’ which are waterproof and drastically increase the density of the fabric. Due to the increased surface tension on the outer layer of fabric, no substance is able to soak through.AdvantagesDisadvantagesCompletely stain resistantFeel and handle of the fabric is unchangedUnabsorbent synthetics which couldn’t be dyed can be dyed when mixed with nanofibersImmense economic gainHighly scientific work provides upskilling and opportunities for skilled workersGarments are stain and odour resistant and don’t have to be washed as often, thus reducing water wastage Treatment only lasts for 50 home washesNanoparticles can harm the human body and cause inflammationHighly scientific and requires knowledge of nanoscienceSkilled and expensive personnel must be hiredPotentially harmful if come into direct contact withSilver nanoparticles are highly toxic to bacteria and microorganisms and thus are highly dangerous to the environmentPROBANProban is a chemical additive and process applied to fabrics made up of cellulose fibres to provide flame retardancy. When untreated fabrics are exposed to flames, they continue to burn, melt and stick to the skin at a very rapid rate even after removal from the source of flames. When Proban treated textiles are exposed to fire, it forms a localised char that acts as an insulating layer and will self-extinguish upon removal from the flame source.Advantages DisadvantagesEnsures safety of wearerNo compromise with comfortDry clean friendlyAir permeableSweat absorptionHuge demand for flame retardant textilesJob opportunities for scientists and engineersAustralian Volunteer Fire Fighters Association and CSIRO regularly address safety and environmental concerns of the productChemical finish is ineffective after 150 washesCannot be washed with traditional soap or bleach because it deteriorates the finishMay release formaldehyde vapours which can cause irritation Flame retardant finishes are held to high safety standards considering their dangerous applicationsSignificant energy and water wastage during manufacturing Immense chemical waste could be improperly disposed of3. AUSTRALIAN TEXTILE, CLOTHING, FOOTWEAR AND ALLIED INDUSTRIESAPPROPRIATE TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY AND ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITYRESOURCES, ALTERNATIVES AND LIMITATIONSDesign for Environment (DfE) => encourages businesses to give greater thought to designs as so to minimise environmental impactResources and processesEnvironmental impactAlternativesRaw material extraction and processingGrowing of natural fibresDisplaces land for cropsLeaches nutrients from soilContaminates soil with chemicalsUses energy and waterUse organic materialsOrganic fibres are grown without heavy use of toxic insecticides and fertiliser Processing of synthetic fibresUses petroleum, coal and oilToxic by-products which become landfillChemical pollution of air, water and landOdours affect breathingInvestigate alternative fibre sourcesHemp can be grown organically and has the same strength as polyesterManufacturing, packaging and distributionFabric productionUses finite resourcesDust and noiseFumes from chemicalsUses energy and waterKeep informed of latest environmental developmentsConsider the use of natural chemical free materialsFinishesToxic by productsHandling health hazardStorage of used dyeUses energy and waterConsider using unbleached or undyed materialsNaturally dyed materialsSome synthetic dyes are colourfast and biodegradableApparel productionWaste from off cutsDustChemical residuePlastic packaging wasteMinimise off cuts by carefully checking lay plans and garment design (CAD and CAM can assist this)Reuse patternsUse renewable components (e.g. wooden buttons)Use recyclable components (e.g. recycled PET cords, labels, polyester recyclable zippers)Product useConsumer use of productPackaging wasteExcess of constantly changing fashionChemical care of productsEnergy and water useMake long lasting clothingClassic designs that don’t go out of fashionCorrect care labelling to ensure longest possible lifeAvoid use of materials that require special launderingEnd of lifeManufacture from renewable or recycled materialsReduce the amount of landfill Use recycled materials (PET drink bottles into polyester yarns, rubber tyres into shoe soles)Make synthetic materials homogenous so they can be recycled without contaminantsSafe disposal of textile products Increase in landfill If using natural materials, make it 100% natural so it can be composted APPROPRIATE AND SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE RESOURCESRecyclingReverse GarbageNon-for-profit that sells industry cut offs for creative or practical usesAims to reduce landfillVintage clothingClothing recycle binsEco bannerClosed production loopThey sell their sale banners to retail stores and once the store is finished with it, the banner is sent back to be recycledPollutionContamination of the natural environment with harmful substancesAir pollution => pollutants cause smog, haze and acidificationWater pollution => land-based contaminants are released into the water supplyLand pollution => poor agricultural practices, pesticide use, haphazard disposal of urban wasteGovernment legislationEnvironmentally Hazardous Chemicals Act 1985Assessment and control of hazardous chemicalsRegulates the manufacture, processing, conveying, buying selling and disposal of dangerous chemicals Ozone Protection Act 1989Allows regulations to be made to control and prohibit production and use of substances that may deplete the ozonePesticides Act 1999Controls and regulates use of pesticidesWaste Avoidance and Resource Recovery Act 2001Scheme to promote producer responsibility for their wasteProtection of the Environment Operations (Clean Air) Regulation 2002Sets maximum limits on emissions of air impurities CURRENT ISSUESGlobalisation of design, manufacture, distribution and marketingFree trade has made exports less competitive and led to a restructuring of the industry which is more aimed at innovative designTechnology has allowed online shopping which increased volume of imports, faster delivery of goods and reduced input costsImports/exportsGlobalisation has led to increased importation of productsCheaper and quicker to manufacture textiles overseas in sweatshopsATCFAI has suffered as a result because it’s more expensive to locally produce textiles Skill level of workersRestructuring of the industry has led to a reduction in the manufacturing sector meaning that more low skilled workers are out of jobs More high skilled and paid jobs available due to the new industryJobs designing, operating and servicing machinery as well as new jobs in innovative designChanging consumer demands and lifestyleSPF clothing => increased awareness of sun damage and skin cancer has led to a demand for sun safe clothingAustralian made => increased awareness of Australia’s place in the global market and the strength of the local economy has led for a demand in local products Fitness => fitness levels have increased for a wider demographic, recent popularity of athleisure means that comfort is essentialClothing from organic sources => customers want to address environmental concerns by buying ‘green’ products Wider variety of sizes => body positivity movement and consumer demand New technology => consumers demand performance fabrics rather than simply comfort and protectionManufacturing strategiesMass produced => large quantities of a standardised article produced by an automated mechanical processNiche markets => goods that appeal to a particular market subgroup, easily distinguished from other products, will be produced and sold for specialised uses within the corresponding market MARKETPLACEASPECTS OF MARKETING TEXTILE PRODUCTSHow well a business or product is marketed depends on these four elements and how well they are manipulated to suit a target audience.Product planningConsumer research is keyKnowing what the market wants allows one to manufacture a product with high demandManufacturers should consider:Quality of the productKey features that set it apartRange of optionsPackaging, labelling, guaranteesInnovation in design or materialsBrand nameFunctionality for end useConsumer loyalty to the product Place and distribution channelsTwo main optionsDirect selling to customersDirect contact between the manufacturer and consumer/retailerOccurs without the intervention of a third partySelling as wholesalers or retailersBuy in bulk from manufacturers and sell smaller quantities to consumers Price structurePricing should reflect the appropriate positioning of the product in the market while covering costs and making a profitMust reflect the demographics of the target marketIf it reflects current fashion trends the desire for the item will increase the pricePromotion strategiesAdvertising and selling aspect of marketingAim it to get people to recognise the product, understand how it satisfies their needs and fulfils a functionSuccessful promotion strategies should contain a clear message targeted to a specific audience via an appropriate methodIncludes radio, TV, print, electronics, word of mouth, industry specific PRODUCT LIFE CYCLEIntroduction stageItem is launched onto the marketConsumers have little knowledge of the productMarketing strategies are used to promote itSales are usually slow with little profit Growth stageFurther promotion increases demand leading to higher profitsMaturity stageStage of greatest sales and profitsSupply meets demandCompetition in the marketplace increases which increases the need for advertisement Decline stageProduct may be replaced by newer, better productsPromotion is reduced or stoppedSales and profits declineProduct may be modified and re-promoted to extend its life TARGET MARKETS4 P’s (product, price, place, promotion) must be employed by Australian marketers to ensure success SportsgirlProductLeading-edge trends for youth fashionWell-constructed, show designer style, high qualityFeature famous designers (Country Road, Simona, etc.)PriceQuite reasonable considering the qualityVariety of pricing means that consumers should always be able to find something instore that is affordablePlaceEstablished in Australia before spreading overseasRetail store => visually stunning, stylish and sophisticated, creative and unique ambience, fun and exuberant PromotionInnovative, creative and unique shop-front window displaysSpecial eventsIn-store paradesSportsgirl’s own magazine ‘Listen’Countless competitions to win prizesCollaborative projects with Cleo and Cosmopolitan magazinesPodcasts, TV, radio, print and electronicCollette DinniganProductHigh-end fashion apparelRed carpet favourite for actressesSignature slip style dresses and hand embroidered garmentsPriceAimed at those who want to purchase special event outfits and have a disposable incomeReflects the prestige of the designer namePlaceAustralian brandNow stocked worldwidePromotionsCollette Dinnigan Boutiques and instore David Jones boutiquesWebsite is stunningReceived dozens of accolades for her work (1996 Australian Designer of the Year, inducted into the Business Woman’s Hall of Fame, Louis Vuitton Business Award) ................
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