Stoney Brook Poodles



Stoney Brook Poodles

Sandra Cointreau[1]

12 Church Street

Roxbury, CT, 06783-1703

Cell phone: 860 488 5910

Email: sandra@

Helpful Hints on Puppy Care from Sandra

Introduction:

The following information is meant to help you with your new puppy. Remember that the puppy is fragile, like an infant. It will be vulnerable to sudden temperature changes, drafts, and harsh treatment. Its natural curiosity and playfulness are qualities you want to foster and steer, so that they provide many years of amusing and delightful companionship.

Most training is preventative in nature – proactive, not reactive. To be a good trainer, you need to anticipate and manipulate normal puppy behavior. This means that you will need to understand what comes naturally to your pup and be ahead of the curve. The more you read ahead of time, the better prepared you will be. Pups progress rapidly, especially the highly intelligent Poodle pup, so this means being a constant and astute observer of nature.

Patience and gentle handling are needed, regardless of whatever the puppy might do. They want to please and it’s your job to show them how to make you happy. Praise and treats and petting are the ways to train. Consistency and firmness are essential. Punishment won’t accomplish much; it only makes most puppies frantic and confused. Their mother uses a deep growly voice during her disciplining, and you will need to learn to develop a low-pitched growly tone for those special moments when you really need immediate attention. But if you lose your temper, your dog will probably become frantic, anxious, jump all around, and act counterproductive to the reaction you want. Their mother uses a series of high-pitched barks to warn of danger. If you bark a high-pitched "No", your dog will probably just bark back, run away, or give you a very confused look. Keep calm and steady, and maintain a low tone for commands.

With children, we potty train when they are ready. We start training on other things, again when they are ready. Try to notice when your pup is ready for each new lesson. Too much, too early, is not a good idea. Focus on paper training first, then outdoor training. "Sit" is the most important command, as it establishes your role as the dominant member of the family. Then work on "Come" on a lead until "Come" without a lead is accomplished. Then "Down", etc., as your pup progresses. Just as every child walks and talks at a different age, each pup learns at its own appropriate rate.

Children:

Some breeders don’t allow puppies to go to homes with children unless the pups are over 14 weeks old. If you have received a puppy and have young children, based on our assessment that you will manage well the puppy’s needs, several precautions are very important. You, more than most, need a dog to be well trained and have a good temperament. Please make sure that your children understand that puppies need only affection and gentle handling in there first few months at their new home. Very little running and no rough-housing and very quiet.

Children will need to be taught how to pick up the puppy, always with two hands, and always to walk very carefully, never making the dog frightened about being dropped. Puppies should not be held belly up, as that is a submissive position that can be stressful. Children need training on how to react to misbehavior – no hitting or shouting, only a firm deep “No” and removal of the puppy from the area or object of misbehavior.

It is much easier for a puppy to try to dominate a child than an adult. It will be difficult to make sure that the puppy does not become the "alpha dog" in its relationship with your child. No mounting, mouthing, staring down, leaning on, body blocking, etc., are acceptable. The child should not lie down in the submissive position under the pup.

It would be best if only adults in the family are in charge of puppy training and discipline during the first year. After the pup is six months, basic obedience training with the children handling the dog in class would be recommendable. While children should learn to participate in all aspects of puppy care, the puppy should not be considered their full responsibility…nor the source of contention over who should be responsible. If you have children and we have decided to place the puppy in your home, please maintain that the adults in the family have the ultimate responsibility.

For the safety of young children, they should become accustomed to washing their hands after playing with their puppy. All dogs have a significant potential to get parasites on their fur from romping outdoors. Most adults will not become affected by contact to such contamination; but children are much more vulnerable. Good hygiene is the most important way for them to enjoy their puppy without any risk.

Supplies:

There are lots of supplies at your local pet stores, but good overall catalogues are: New England Serum (now called Pet Edge), which probably has the best grooming and veterinarian supplies, 1 800 637 3786 ; Care-A-Lot, 1 800 343 7680; and R.C. Steele, wholesale pet supplies, 1 800 872 3773. Clipping supplies, including a good grooming instruction video for Poodles, and clipper blade sharpening services are available from a shepherd supply catalogue called Wooltique, 1 800 657 0746 or directly from Oyster. Herbs and organic supplements are available from several catalogues, such as: Chamisa Ridge, 1 800 743 3188; ; and Springtime, Inc., 1 800 521 3212. We also make herbal supplements and salves for dogs and horses through our company IPLN, Inc., with most referrals through veterinarians and animal massage and acupuncture specialists. Our product line is called Earth Lodge Herbals 1 860 237 8801; at .

Information:

There are a number of good books about Poodles. One of the best is: The Complete Book of the Poodle, by Del Dahl, 1994, Howell Book House, NY, NY. You'll see some wonderful photos of ancestors in our line in this book, including Champions Dassin Rita La Rose, Dassin De La Rose, and top producer of 28 champions by the age of sever, Dassin Delano.

A terrific magazine about show events and champion breed dogs, which also will have some up to date information on disease research and therapies specific to poodles, as well as lots of wonderful photos of all the best Poodles in the country, is Poodle Variety, 1 805 692 2055.

A fascinating book on dog intelligence and training is: The Intelligence of Dogs – Canine Consciousness and Capabilities, by Stanley Coren, 1994, The Free Press, NY, NY. Mr. Coren's newest book (also The Free Press, 2000): How to Speak Dog is a must for understanding all the information your puppy is trying to to give you when it jumps, mouths, pees when excited, paws, stares into your eyes. You'll be amazed that the real meaning is quite often different than the one we'd normally assume. I can admit to misreading much of what my poodles have said over the years, and needing to correct my training responses after reading this book. The Truth About Dogs, by Stephen Budiansky (Viking Press, 2000) provides a lot of information about dog abilities, intelligence and limitations. It is a delightfully enjoyable book to read, and gives good insight into dog hierarchy and pack relationships. Experts on animal behavior have told me that this book by Budiansky presents a more scientifically valid interpretation of animal behavior research than the Coren book. We recommend both as delightful and enlightening reading.

For really clear training guidance, with lots of photos, see: Good Owners, Great Dogs, by Brian Kilcommons, 1992, Warner Books. This is particularly good for the owner with only one or two dogs, as much of the training involves leash work. With my family pack, using this one with the above books How to Speak Dog and The Truth About Dogs is more appropriate…it's kind of hard to work with more than a half-dozen leashes at a time, and they always seem to misbehave when all together.

A wonderful book for understanding the human naivete and anxieties of dealing with puppies and dogs, and the incredible love and support a dog will bring to your life is Caroline Knapp's Pack of Two. Aside from taking us into the new millennium with a new way for two leggeds to relate to four leggeds, it summarizes much of the relevant factual information in Coren's, Budiansky's and Kilcommon's books mentioned above. It has great humanity and is a delightful read.

A good overall book on dog veterinary medicine is: Dog Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook, Delbert G. Carlson, DVM and James M. Giffin, MD, 1992, Howell Book House, NY, NY. This book will help you know when to contact your vet and to have the questions to ask and the ready information to provide (temperature, stool, urine, etc.). A good book on natural and herbal therapies for dogs is Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats, C.J. Puotinen, 1999, Keats Publishing. This book includes guidance for natural feeding programs, vitamin and enzyme supplements, and how-to's for making skin salves, deodorizing powders, flea and tick preventatives, and herbal supplements.

If you are interested in an in-depth and rather technical understanding of dog genetics and the basis of genetic diseases, the best book is probably: Control of Canine Genetic Diseases, by George A. Padgett, DVM, Howell Book House, 1998, NY, NY.

For breeding, a book with excellent photos and concise steps is Dog Breeding for Professionals, by Dr. Herbert Richards, 1978, T.F.H. Publications, Inc., Neptune City, NJ. Excellent text is available in The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog, by Ann Seranne, 1980, Howell Book House, NY, NY. Another good reference is The Standard Book of Dog Breeding, by Dr. Alvin Grossman, Doral Publishing, 1992, Wilsonville, OR. Interestingly, these books do not duplicate each other very much and each offers valuable information.

On the web, good information is available at the Poodle Club of America website, . which has links to other good sites. This site provides specific details on the poodle breed standard, so that you can evaluate the quality of your own poodle and understand those characteristics valued in champions. The poodle breed standard is also available from the American Kennel Club, at . This wonderful site has on-line pedigrees of all registered dogs, as well as progeny reports for champions, and their champion competition records.

There is some interesting health data on . Excellent training information is available on: . Good vet and vaccine information is available on: .

Key Pup Developments:

Your puppy has experienced the following early developments and can be expected to proceed on the schedule noted below:

• First 2 days: puppy needs warmth (80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit) free from draft, critical that each pup receive its mother’s milk for immunization, help each one get enough of mother’s milk, make sure mother stimulates sucking and clears anus, weigh each pup daily for next two weeks to insure weight gain, put some vitamin E oil on pup’s anus to ensure clearing, mother likely to have diarrhea from birthing so need to wash her entire rear end after each time outdoors until her stools become firm (may be a couple of weeks)

• Fifth or Sixth day: dock tails and remove dew claws

• First week: supplement (twice a day) the smallest ones with goat’s milk (or special puppy formula), using an eye dropper, make sure smallest ones get a chance at nursing with mother, put vitamin E oil on mother’s nipples to keep them from chaffing.

• Tenth day: hearing begins and pups will respond to auditory stimulation

• Twelfth day: sight begins and pups will respond to visual stimulation

• Second week: supplement (twice a day) all the pups with goat’s milk (or special puppy formula), using a small bottle and nipple, continue to help smaller ones get a chance at nursing with mother, cut nails weekly from now on, personalities begin to emerge, weight at least 70% more than birth weight, start walking wobbly steps.

• Third week: supplement (three to five times a day) with goat’s milk and infant cereal, using a small bottle and nipple, eyes open, start to walk, weight at least 150% more than birth weight, first deworming (because dames typically shed large numbers of parasites, which have resided dormant in their flesh, due to the stress of delivery), by end of week pups start urinating on one end of whelping box.

• Fourth week: supplement with cereal and milk mixture including yogurt and cottage cheese from a plate (three to five times a day), open whelping box and let pups wander to urinate and defecate on paper throughout room, pups start playing and making lots of noises, pups begin to be very curious, by end of week canine teeth start to emerge, cut nails, fighting begins with lots of snarling, mother needs a place to roost above the fray.

• Fifth week: supplement with cereal and milk mixture, including yogurt, cottage cheese and blended wet puppy food from a plate (four to five times a day), mother distancing herself from being with pups full-time, mother starts regurgitating partially digested food for pups, second deworming, cut nails, male and female alpha dogs should be apparent, pups begin chewing everything and being quite playful with toys and each other, provide lots of auditory stimulation and fondling, time to groom anal area, begin paper training in one area of their room. Scent starts to develop and potential hunt/tracking dogs may be identified.

• Sixth to Seventh week: continue to supplement from a plate (four times a day), mother’s nursing may be minimal (for comfort mostly), alpha dog will lead most developments, first round of vaccinations by vet, time to get serious about weaning, family sleeps together but mother has more time outside of puppy-room to allow her breasts to replenish, mother's discipline and communication very important for future socialization of pups, provide lots of fondling to pups, introduce them to other rooms and outside (if weather permits) puppy-proof all spaces where puppies go, anything they see will go into their mouth, pups become quite good in their paper training – especially regarding their bowel movements. Other dogs in the family pack participate in the training of the pups in language and behavior skills.

• Seventh week: possible to fully wean pups from nursing (we allow our mothers to continue to nurse as she wishes several times a day), continue with feedings four times a day, may need to separate some dogs from fighting for alpha position, third deworming, floor should not be slippery (to avoid future hip problems), provide each puppy with some separated time, time for first bath and full grooming.

• Eighth week: possible to be fully weaned (some nursing may continue until as late as the 14th week, depending on the mother), attempt to get down to feeding three times a day, some start to climb fencing, very active at this stage, can start leash work, puppies need lots of human contact from this point on to the 14th week in order to develop a good temperament, if you have to be away during the day someone else will need to come in every few hours and socialize with the puppy, nothing traumatic or harsh for next two weeks…sensitive period in puppy development begins which can significantly affect future temperament and confidence, female pups may start fighting over dominance, pups will become rather expert in their paper training.

• Eighth to Tenth week: second round of vaccinations, feed every 6 hours (four times a day), puppy can be introduced to cats and other pets, but should be kept from close contact with other dogs for a few more weeks, still in sensitive period where need to avoid anything traumatic or harsh, able to go to homes after vaccinated.

• Tenth week: fighting over dominance can be quite vigorous if pups still together (due to onset of strong hormonal changes), males may be later in fighting than females due to hormonal differences, usually pups are placed in their new homes by this week to avoid injuries which can occur in the 11th to 16 week of fighting, still in sensitive period of very gentle handling and no harsh punishment, if not separate quarters may be needed.

• Twelfth week: if some littermates are still together, separate them at least a part of the time to allow individual personality to develop, the puppy is ready to have social encounters with other dogs (both in terms of its readiness to socialize and its immunity) and to meet lots of other people, take lots of very short car trips (anything more than 5-10 minutes is likely to cause car sickness), third round of vaccinations, feeding three times daily.

• Fifteenth to Sixteenth week: fourth round of vaccinations, may include first rabies vaccination which is good for one year, start training to sit and lie down.

• Five months: reduce feedings to two times a day, transition to crate training and outdoor relief on a part-time basis, ready to start training kindergarten for puppies.

• Six months: test for heartworm and start heartworm preventative treatment, check teeth to see that all permanent teeth have come through properly, complete house-training, begin obedience training, ONLY if your puppy listens well you may begin training on the invisible fence - otherwise wait until the puppy responds consistently to the command "Come".

• 12 months: continue feeding two times a day, boosters for all vaccinations.

• 15 months: second rabies vaccination, now good for 3 years.

• Two years: puppy now a mature dog, reduce feedings (once a day for wet food, unless dog is thin), leave small amount of dry food available from morning until late afternoon if you wish, unless dog is overweight, plus a snacks for training aids.

Schedule:

For the young puppy, urination will occur when it wakes up and immediately after eating. It will need to go outside to relieve itself every 2 hours, minimum, unless you have a paper area available inside. After 3 months, it can transition to relieving itself every 3 hours. By the time it is 6 months, it can transition to relieving itself every 4 hours. By one year, it can relieve itself every 6 hours. Adult dogs should not be expected to wait more than 8 hours to relieve themselves.

For the young puppy, four meals daily are needed. After 3 months, it can transition to three meals. By 5 months, it can transition to two meals. Adult dogs can have either one or two meals daily…they prefer to have two meals and it is probably healthier for them to do so.

When not playing in a fenced pen outdoors, we prefer to keep our puppies in an open room with paper in a plastic pool until the pup is 6 months old, or the weather is agreeable. Initially, there is some puppy fecal matter in between the layers of paper, so that the puppy knows where to do its business. Early crate training requires more isolation of the puppy, more restriction of the puppy’s natural instincts to explore and play, and a lot more effort on your part. We prefer to phase in crate training gradually, when the pup seems to be ready to have bladder and bowel control. For example, initially use the crate only for sleeping at night and for a short day nap, after the pup is 6 months old. Even at night, if you're not going to get up every 5 to 6 hours, I would leave the door of the crate open and let the pup use the paper in its pool. Use of a crate should continue to be only for sleeping or quiet times…never as a long-term parking area for most of the day.

When your puppy comes home during the period between 8 to 12 weeks, the following schedule is what we would suggest for the first 3 months:

• 6 AM Relief outside immediately upon you waking up and/or the puppy seeing

or hearing your movement (or on its own in its room on paper, if you have a room for paper training).

• 7:30 AM First Meal in crate, or other quiet place.

• 8 AM Relief outside immediately upon completing meal, or 30 minutes from

start of meal (or on its own in its room on paper, if you have a room for paper training).

• 8:15 AM Playtime with you.

• 9:15 AM Nap and quiet play.

• 10:30 AM Relief outside (or on its own in its room on paper, if you have a room for paper training).

• 11:45 PM Playtime with you.

• 12:30 PM Relief outside (or on its own in its room on paper).

• 12:45 PM Second Meal in crate, or other quiet place.

• 1:15 PM Relief outside immediately upon completing meal, or 30 minutes from

start of meal (or on its own in its room on paper).

• 1:45 PM Nap and quiet play.

• 3:15 AM Relief outside (or on its own in its room on paper).

• 3:30 PM Playtime with you.

• 4 PM Nap and quiet play

• 5:15 PM Relief outside (or on its own in its room on paper).

• 5:30 PM Third Meal in crate, or other quiet place.

• 6 PM Relief outside immediately upon completing meal, or 30 minutes from

start of meal.

• 6:30 PM Nap and quiet play.

• 8:30 PM Relief outside (or on its own in its room on paper), Remove access to

water until morning.

• 9 PM Playtime with you.

• 10 PM Fourth Meal (optional, depending on whether puppy feels “boney”

around the hips and shoulders, or seems hungry).

until morning.

• 10:30 PM Relief outside (or on its own in its room on paper).

• 2:30 AM Relief outside (or on its own in its room on paper).

Puppies usually have a bowel movement just before or after each meal, so give it time (up to 30 minutes and lots of walking) to complete it.

If an area of your home has been marked with urine or fecal matter, you will need to clean it well to avoid the puppy or dog returning to it. Baking soda, white vinegar, or commercial pet odor cleaners can be used after the area is washed. When training, mopping the room (to avoid urine or fecal matter being spread about from the puppy’s feet and thus disrupting training) should be done at least twice a day.

Life Expectancy:

Standard Poodles have an average Life Expectancy of about 14 years, but some live to be 18 years old. They mature at 18 to 24 months.

Veterinary literature indicates that 30% of puppies die between birth and weaning, but we have been blessed with a much lower mortality rate of under 5%. Most mortalities occur within the first 2 weeks, and commonly among the puppies that were most frail at birth. Causes include inadequate heat, inadequate vaccination and deworming of the dame before pregnancy, problems with milk supply and inadequate supplementation, and infectious disease. To a lesser extent, death can be caused by congenital defects such as cleft palate or heart defects. More rare is death from infections such as parvo or kennel cough.

After three wormings, several vaccinations and development of the puppy’s body weight and hair, the risk of death decreases significantly. To be on the safe side, we strongly recommend restriction of your puppy from dogs outside of your family and public spaces where there is dog fecal matter during the first 3 full months of life.

Feeding:

For the first few days, the puppies need to get as much of their mother’s milk as possible, for the antibodies it contains. Holistic Medicine Veterinarians believe that this immunization is more important than most vaccinations. They should continue to get some of mother's milk each day for the first 5 weeks of their lives, for normal development and nurturing.

The first supplemental food puppies receive should be ,preferably, fresh goat’s milk. Goat’s milk has a higher calorie count than cow’s milk, but it is still only half the caloric and protein count of the dame’s milk. Goat’s milk with egg yolks will come closer to the dame’s milk in caloric and protein count. It is also possible to use a mixture of evaporated milk, water, water, egg yolk, and flax seed oil. Cow’s milk is not normally given, but we do add yogurt made from cow’s milk to goat’s milk and the evaporated milk formula. Puppies might not have the enzymes necessary to break down cow’s milk, and could get diarrhea from cow’s milk. Try and see what works for your puppy.

With a large litter, of over 5 pups, supplemental feeding can begin immediately on the first day (using a dropper). They much prefer the taste of goat’s milk and it is better for them. Most nature food stores carry it, and it can be frozen. (The feeding of the mother is very critical during the first 5 weeks. She will need at least 5 meals daily, including raw eggs, raw meat, dog food, bread/pasta/rice, lots of yogurt and cottage cheese).

By the fourth week, puppies progress to eating cereal and wet meat/vegetable and yogurt mush, four meals a day. One option is to buy baby food blends to add to the infant cereal. By the time they are about 14 weeks old, they can be reduced to two meals a day. By this time, they will be getting some mashed dog food, including ground up and wetted dry puppy food, with the mixture. Each change in diet is done gradually, by blending new foods in with the ones already being well tolerated. We cook our own herbal blend (Earth Lodge Herbals) with rice and puree it with the goat's milk and canned puppy food (Science Diet) to feed the pups from 4 weeks onward. The mother is still nursing, but not enough to be significant for their nutrition.

By the fifth or sixth week, the good dame begins regurgitating some of her food for the pups. This partially digested food, with stomach enzymes, facilitates the weaning process. The dame’s feeding requirements will need to be raised even higher once this starts. Despite what food she may give, which we try to minimize so that she can gain her own weight back after puppy care, we continue to supplement at least four times daily.

Together, as a litter, pups eat heartily and quickly….because of the competition. That will not continue after they come to you, so you will need to make some adjustments. Meals must be tasty. Don't give them food based only on the label. They must like it. I recommend you stick with the Science Diet, as it tastes good, and add lots of raw food, eggs, cottage cheese, carrots, etc. After pups come to your home, whatever they don’t eat within an hour should be removed. Only dry food is to be left out, if you choose. Constant eating will cause diarrhea – they need a break between meals for the digestion system to rest. Also, you need some kind of eating routine in order to train them to relieve themselves on a schedule.

For older pups (over 6 months) being crate trained, remove all solid food by 6 PM, to enable bowels to be emptied before 10 PM.

Fresh clean water should be put out each day for the entire day. For older pups (over 6 months) being crate trained, remove water after 8 PM to avoid urination after 10 PM.

Minimize diversity!!! Don’t routinely give kitchen scraps to puppies. They need time to slowly adjust to different foods. For the first 6 months, we recommend that you stick with one type of infant rice cereal and one or two types of wet puppy dog food, as well as one type or two types of dry puppy dog food. Wean them gradually from the goat’s milk. They can have yogurt or cottage cheese for the rest of their lives, it is good for them.

Dogs do well with some degree of raw food added to their other food…raw chopped beef and raw egg yolks. But, this raw food must be fresh and clean. If there is any question on the freshness and safety from bacteria, it must be cooked. We regularly give raw eggs from cage-free hens to our puppies, and some believe that raw eggs are good for the dog’s coat. Some poodle breeders believe raw food is also considered to be a good deterrent from the disease “bloat”. Raw carrots are generally favorite treats for most poodles. We typically add rice cooked with our herbal blend to fresh raw or cooked meat. A high-grade kibble is freely available twice a day, as much as they wish.

Chocolate is toxic to dogs and can kill them. The caffeine and theobromine in chocolate overstimulate the dog’s nervous system. Syrup of ipecac can be used to induce vomiting if your dog has ingested chocolate milk, chocolate ice cream or any other form of chocolate.

Rawhide treats are not digestible by pups and young dogs. Even some older dogs do not digest them well. Do not give rawhide to your pups in their first year.

Most bones are not good for pups and young dogs. Many older dogs are not able to eat bones. We only give our dogs the raw thick beef marrow bones, as they are not likely splinter and they offer many hours of scrapping/chewing. Some people boil the marrow out, as it is high in cholesterol. I leave it in because they love it, and the rest of their diet is lean on fat. Milk bone treats are often good nutritionally and will not make them sick. Large nylabones are good for chewing purposes and will help to keep teeth clean.

For the puppy upon coming home, start with the following mixture. They have been receiving these foods blended, but by the ninth week (when they come to your home), they should be able to have them presented on a platter without blending. If you don't have raw organic goat's milk available, you may use a small quantity of regular skim milk and water, only enough for blending the rest of the following items.

• Canned puppy food, we are currently using Canidae.

• Dry puppy food, we are currently using Canidae, Chicken Soup, and Halo.

• Raw or lightly cooked fresh eggs (up to one per day).

• Raw fresh beef or cooked chicken (chicken slaughter has a higher record or bacterial contamination, so we are not serving it raw).

• Cooked white rice (brown rice is too cellulosic and could cause diarrhea)

• Organic whole milk yogurt.

• Cottage cheese.

With this diet, vitamins are not necessary. However, a very small quantity of infant vitamins can be given – following your vet’s permission and his advice regarding the amount. Puppies can be adversely affected by excess vitamins. A daily Tums tablet may be recommended for strong bones and teeth.

Coprophagia (Eating Feces)

Don't panic. Your dog is likely to eat feces at one time or another, especially if shown to do it by another dog. Why do dogs do this????? Boredom. Bizarre taste buds. Digestive enzymes, fiber and nutrients (especially from herbivore feces, particularly horses, goats, and rabbits). Removing their scent from predators or dogs outside their territory. Demonstration of submission to an alpha dog. Just plain Hungry. And, because it gets a rise out of you!

To solve the problem, your need to work on several fronts, because you'll never know which of the above reasons YOUR dog eats feces. Some options to consider:

• Have toys and things to chew on. The best kind of bone is beef leg shank, boiled then simmered for several hours until quite hard. Carrots and celery are greatly appreciated chewables.

• Provide meals at least twice a day.

• Give digestive enzymes available in tablet form, or provide fresh apples or other fruits with enzymes.

• Remove feces daily from your yard, using a special type of fork used for mucking horse stalls (indispensable!!) and put the feces in an area outside of your dog's fencing (particularly under a soft pine tree where it will be covered daily with pine needles and quickly be decomposed into compost by earth worms who like shade).

• And most importantly….DO NOT REACT!!! Remember that a key reason for doing this could be to get attention.

Behavioral Training:

The Poodle is ranked the Number 1 Dog in terms of intelligence. Training of an intelligent dog is considered more challenging than training a less bright breed. So train early and continuously. Remember that you are the head of the pack. You go first through doorways, first down the stairs. You eat first. You sleep in your own bed, at a higher elevation than your puppy. These small acts constantly reinforce your dominant (and parental) relationship with your pup and will protect you and your family from risk when your dog grows.

Never show fear to a smart dog like a Standard Poodle, as it is bright enough and large enough to use it to its own advantage. It may even challenge you for dominance by seemingly innocent steps initially (like pawing you, staring you in the face, refusing to move from your seat), or more aggressive behavior (like growling). If you are nervous, do lots of leash work and get help from a trainer immediately, before your dog gets the upper hand. Always focus on practicing the SIT and DOWN commands, as these are positions of submission and acknowledge you as leader of the pack. Don't confuse a smile for a grimace, or jumping around frantically for dominance; Don't be worried to sleep with your back turned to your pup, it shows trust; Do read Stanley Coren's How to Speak Dog, and your life will be easier. For balance in reporting, also read The Truth About Dogs. Both books are fascinating studies of dog behavior and communication and will enrich your experience with your dog greatly.

Always make obedience rewarding. The most important reward is praise, but tiny treats (no bigger than a half inch) that do not distract the dog’s attention from the lesson are very helpful. Never overdo obedience training…keep it short. Always be firm until the required command has been fulfilled.

Do not play roughly or encourage tug-of-war types of games…one day the item in your dog’s mouth may be your child’s arm. Play should encourage bringing something and dropping it…not tugging it away from you and running away from it. What may seem amusing in a puppy will not be so amusing in a full-grown 60-pound dog.

Don’t be afraid to exert dominance…a strong, growly voice firmly saying “No!”, clapping of your hands to get attention, putting the puppy on its back in the submissive position, taking it to a crate for 10 minutes until it settles down, or pushing it into a sitting position. Remember that you are never too busy to train your puppy at a key moment of bad behavior. Most bad behavior occurs when there are guests. Rather than do no training of our pup when it misbehaves when people are around, it is better to put them in a quiet place and deal with the retraining after your guests have left. In a pack, the dominant dog allows other to feed when it is ready…so providing treats upon good behavior reasserts to your pup that you are dominant.

Avoid wrestling with your puppy or any aggressive play. If your puppy gets overly excited, put it gently and firmly in its cage until it settles down. If behavioral problems develop, start weekly obedience classes and daily leash training.

Always encourage your puppy to make eye contact with you by saying its name and holding a food tidbit close to your face. Give praise and treats for maintaining eye contact and responding favorably to its name. Getting your dog’s attention is half the battle in training.

A few of the most common and troublesome early training problems we have had are discussed below:

My pup Magyck always gave me a steady stare when I sat down to eat. In the past, I would have given such a pup a treat. But I have learned that dogs use the direct stare to control human behavior and exert dominance. Giving in to the stare (and doleful hungry look), will only lead to problems later, so now I just stare back and keep eating!!! I'm also careful not to blink, as that represents giving up of my dominant position.

I have discouraged all the pups as they were growing here to avoid going "belly up". While some degree of submission is good, I prefer that our dogs do not make themselves that vulnerable. If a smart dog like a poodle does that with a dog that is not as smart, the dumber dog might not read the signal clearly and might use it to advantage, attacking the poodle's most vulnerable body parts. I try to show them to just sit or lower their hind end when needing to show submission. Only with their mother, do I avoid interfering with this total act of submission, as a future way to avoid any threats to her role as had of the family pack.

For a family pet, there are seemingly cute puppy acts that are not acceptable, for example: using its shoulder to bump you, body blocking, putting a paw repeatedly on your lap, leaning on you, pushing you over on the couch, placing paws on the your shoulders (or your child's shoulders) in a standing position, and any of these with a full frontal stare. These acts all may indicate a desire to express dominance. When the puppy does them, you should quietly push down his rear into a sitting position and give it a good petting...from your dominant standing position. You can also turn the dog to stand sideways to you and pet it, as a dog who has turned its side is making a pacifying gesture. These small issues are particularly important in the families with children.

When your dog sits, yawns, sniffs the ground, scratches itself, stands sideways to you, stares off at the horizon....these are all acts of signifying submission, and indifference to any challenge

of a fight. Generally, a submissive pup will also lick the face of the dominant dog, so this act is not dominant....unless you are lying down and the pup is standing over you.

Poodles jump up to greet you. Mounting is not jumping. Mounting by your puppy is not a sexual act. The females and males both mount. It is a statement of dominance, not of affection. It needs to be stopped right away by some basic obedience training. Pull the dog off of the mounting position and put it into the sitting position. Or do a little leash work, with appropriate rewards, to reaffirm you dominance. If the dog will not stop, take it to a quiet room or place for a few minutes of isolation from any human contact. If the puppy tries to mount toys or other items, do the same thing, until all mounting behavior has stopped. Try to remember that mounting behavior is seldom other than communication of social dominance.

Mouthing, biting or barking are also not tolerable. Their mother's response to unacceptable behavior would be to put her mouth around their snout and growl. You need to put you hand around their snout, hold it closed, and say "No" or "Quiet" in a low growly voice. But PLEASE, do not ever say "No" in a high pitched voice. It will just sound like an alarm or calling bark to your puppy and it may simply bark back. Further, if it sounds like an "anxiety bark", it will make the pup even more dominant. "Barking begets Barking" in dog-talk. Low and growly sounds are useful to successful training.

Nipping and Chewing:

Unfortunately, puppies chew and nip. They also dig…even at plaster walls. They are unlikely to do this when you are watching, so you won't be able to effectively discipline them about it. Whatever room the puppy stays in will need to be puppy-proofed as much as possible.

The commercial spray called Bitter Apple generally works. To save beautiful wooden furniture from complete ruination, I sometimes use chili pepper oil or chili sauce (like Tobasco). When desperate, I will mix up a potion of dishwashing liquid and cayenne pepper and lather it on the corners of everything in their room, otherwise every edge will be rounded in short order by their sharp little teeth. Another option is to buy a portable metal pen to set up in the middle of a room, away from all furniture and where no household edges are accessible. This may be somewhat confining for you, and will only work for a couple of months, because poodle pups can jump quite high, but it is an option for the early months.

Mouthing:

Mouthing is not biting. Poodle puppies do mouth, naturally. They are retrievers, and will retrieve you if possible. As a rule, they are not biters. Nevertheless, mouthing can be annoying and some guests may find it intimidating. When poodles play with you with their mouth open grabbing at you, grab your hand around their entire snout, closing their mouth firmly, and say, in your low growly voice, No! This may have to be done least a hundred times over the first few months you have your puppy. Never reward the mouthing puppy with the attention it is trying to get...this is not the time to pet it.

Acting frightened or upset or angry will never lead to successful results. Any kind of tension leads a poodle to act in a frenzy. Poodles are highly sensitive, like barometers for our feelings. When we are not calm, they are not calm. If your puppy is very excited and does not pay attention to your disciplining, you may gently put it in its’ crate for 5 minutes, until they settle down, then praise your puppy for being quiet and lead it out again for quiet play.

To minimize its interest in nipping you, give puppies lots of things to chew…including raw carrots, ice cubes, nylabones, potato bones, hard rubber toys, cloth toys. Also, diversion with a training lesson is very helpful way to get your puppy’s attention. Most puppies get very excited when a leash is taken out for a training lesson.

Leash Work:

Most training is done on a lead/leash. A loose collar and 6 foot leash are normally used. Retractable leashes are not good for training. Choke collars are not appropriate for use at any time. In using the leash, you need to hold it a short distance from the dog’s collar, so that the dog is walking next to your leg, and then hold the leash end in the other hand. Only a very light contact is needed (like with the reins of a horse) and slight flicks of the wrist (actually, just a quick sideways wrist movement of 1-2 inches, like a half-halt used in equestrian training). It is not a Tug-of-War, which your pup will see as a game. You may begin to train your puppy to sit and lie down from the first week that you own it. You will be surprised how quickly it will learn to become immediately calm and sit when you give it a treat each time.

Use of Crates for Training:

Let me repeat a point made earlier, under Schedule:

We prefer to keep our puppies in an open room with paper in a plastic pool until the pup is about 6 months old, or the weather is agreeable enough to allow it to spend a portion of the day in a safe pen near the house where no predatory animals might harm it. Initially, we place some puppy fecal matter in between the layers of paper, so that the puppy knows where to do its business. Early crate training requires more isolation of the puppy, more restriction of the puppy’s natural instincts to explore and play, and a lot more effort on your part to go out frequently enough to avoid any accidents. We prefer to phase in crate training gradually, when the pup seems to be ready to have bladder and bowel control. For example, initially use the closed crate only for sleeping at night (5 to 6 hours) and for a short day nap, after the pup is 6 months old. Use of a closed crate should continue to be only for sleeping or quiet times…never as a long-term parking area for most of the day. If the crate is not a closed prison, most pups will go into it willingly to lie down and watch you from a safe place.

In the first year, a pup does not appear to understand the difference between the house and the yard. However, it genetically understands that it should not relieve itself in its den – or crate. To avoid accidents when you are not observing the puppy, it should be in its crate or in a room where it can use a paper area for relieving itself. Even after 6 months, the puppy should never spend more than 8 hours within any 24-hour period within a crate, regardless of how large the crate.

Aside from the restricted time that the puppy spends it its crate (such as when you are sleeping or need to leave the house for a few hours), it should be in a closed room with some place it can relieve itself.

The puppy is unlikely to relieve itself on your lap or within your immediate vicinity. The puppy can travel on a short leash with you from room to room as you work or rest. When it is time to take the puppy outside to relieve itself, accidents can be avoided by carrying the pup outside …otherwise one shouldn’t be surprised if the pup doesn’t make it all the way to the door before making a mess. If an accident happens, just say “No” firmly, pick up the puppy gently and carry it outside, then praise it well when it completes its duty….and don't comment on the mess when you reenter the house.

In the house, you can use one large crate. A 42” to 48” long wire crate (36” high) would be ideal for a standard poodle. It is better for it to be large enough for the poodle to be able to stretch fully, turn around, and lie sprawled out. I prefer crates that are open wire rather than enclosed plastic, as the poodle can more be involved with the people around it. I fill my crates with lots of towels (hand sized) so that if there is an accident the soiled towel can easily be removed for washing, and yet there is still lots of clean toweling for bedding down. Bedding should be washed at least once a week, and shaken out daily. A very young puppy can also use a litter basin with paper at one end for urination during the night.

For puppies under 6 months, there should be no drafts in the area where the crate is placed. If drafts exist, the crate will need to be covered with some type of sheet on at least one end. If the temperature in the crate can not be kept at 65 degrees near the floor, consider using an infrared heating lamp about 6 feet above the crate to provide warmth (never put such a lamp closer, or you will cook your dog!). Remember that cold is one of the worst enemies of your puppy, especially as Poodles have fine dry hair and not oiled fur.

When traveling in the car or visiting the vet, a smaller more portable crate is nice to have, but not necessary. A short leash can keep your dog in its place for most places you will want to go.

Housetraining:

Use of crates for housetraining can make the job easier, once the puppy is ready for this training (i.e., has adequate bowel and bladder control) but from our experience we recommend that you do not crate your puppy for more than 3 hours during the day during its first 6 months, and never for more than 7 hours at night in its next 6 months. Paper (in a litter bin) at one end for urination will be until about the pup is at least 5 months.

If you have to be away during the day, arrange for someone to come in every 4 to 5 hours to play with the puppy or dog and take it out. When this is not possible, arrange a room or garage where papers can be put on the floor (or on plastic or in a tub) with a nearby OPEN crate for resting.

These principles typically apply in housetraining a dog of any age:

• All dogs like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.

• Puppies have limited bladder control and urinate when excited (such as when they see you or a plate of food coming) or when frightened (when you raise your voice).

• All dogs are easiest to train if kept to a routine schedule and fed in a consistent manner. New foods can make even the best-trained adult dog have an accident in its training.

• When its time for a dog to go, it shouldn’t have to walk far. Carry it if necessary.

• All dogs relieve themselves when…

← As soon as they wake up from a nap or from a night’s sleep

← Just before lying down for a nap or sleep

← Within 30 minutes of eating

• Puppies additionally need to urinate immediately before and after eating.

• Very few dogs “tell you” when its time to go out to relieve themselves. Just assume the correct time and be ahead of the curve.

• If between meals and naps you suddenly see your dog circling about and sniffing the floor, assume that its looking for a spot to relieve itself. Scoop the puppy up and carry it outside immediately. If he starts before your can get to it, you might still pick it up immediately for a quick run outside and then praise it well upon completing the job.

• For puppies under 6 months, once you decide you are ready to be rigorous about housetraining, you should take it outside very 2 hours (at least) while its awake. Always carry it outside and place it on the grass, so that it understands that relief and grass are related.

Crates and restricted areas are used by breeders and trainers to get the pup’s natural instincts to lead to good training. Any pup that has been raised during its first 9 weeks with it’s mother in a proper breeding facility is not going to want to mess its den or sleeping area. They prefer to walk at least a few feet from where they sleep for relief. (Unfortunately, commercially bred pups commonly are raised on wire and have minimal contact with their mother’s for this training. As their wire cages have fecal scent everywhere, they do not learn to keep a sleeping area clean. Patience will overcome this problem, but this is one of the hidden costs of going to a commercial breeder or pet store.)

When first crate training to get your puppy to focus on eating immediately, you might try feeding your puppy it its crate, and then take it out right after the meal is completed. Never wait more than 30 minutes from when you first gave the puppy food to take it out.

We like to use small plastic children's swimming pool, layered with paper over an absorbent cotton pad and placed near the door of their key room, just in case they can't hold themselves until you take them out. This way you will not develop any stains or odors in your floor, which would adversely affect their training...and also wear on your patience. They will honor child-gates at this age, and can thus be kept in one room.

When you take them to other rooms to be with you, you should consider using a leash, so that they don't wander in your marvelous indoor "yard" to relieve themselves. When taking them from their crate, where they will spend the night, to the outdoors, you should carry them, as they will never relieve themselves in your arms.

A small temporary outdoor pen near your back door, for cold winter nights when they have to have their midnight outing, might make life easier for you…especially since most pups (and full grown dogs) need at least 20 minutes of walking after eating to be fully completed with their urination and bowel movements. Metal stakes and chicken wire will do, about 8 feet by 8 feet, for a safe place to relieve themselves until next summer when they will be fully trained. They can not be left out in cold weather or wind for more than is necessary to complete their business.

Puppies should not be left in the pen after sunset without you watching, because of coyote and other predators (including black bear) now common in the northeast (and more hungry from October to April, when their favored small prey is hibernating). We are also careful about the young puppies during the day, as there are eagles and large hawks around that I have often seen circling out puppy pens. But when they seen a person standing guard, or the mother and an auntie also in the pen, they will avoid the risk of injury.

Changes affect housetraining. Adding new pets, family members coming or going, changes in diet, feeding kitchen scraps between meals, changes in water source, travel, etc., can all cause temporary lapses in housetraining. Anticipate that change will require more Relief-time outside. Frequent urination may signal a urinary infection…see your vet.

Neutering:

Females come into their first heat at about 6 months old. The first couple of heats (which occur every 6 months and last about 3 weeks) normally will be barely noticeable to you, but can be readily detected by male dogs in your neighborhood. You will need to keep the females confined when you see the vulva swelled and any sign of bloody discharge. If you scratch a female’s back above the tail during each day she is in season, on the days that she is “ready”, she will “present” and pull her tail sharply to one side and hold it there. For 10-20 days, you will need to be careful to confine her from being accessible to males. Even neutered males may try to mount her and she will may bite him. You might also consider using your crate if you need to leave her alone in the house, as the hormonal shift can bring on some strange and sometimes destructive behavior (One of my bitches in heat, no names mentioned, destroyed a marvelous set of real pearls and my grandmother’s diamond watch in one afternoon alone).

Males start lifting their leg, between ages 4 to 12 months. This indicates the start of sexual drive and an instinct to mark territory. If your male catches scent of a female in heat, it would be natural for him to go to her. Not even a 6-foot fence will guarantee that he stays home. Good training and careful observation are needed. Once a male starts breeding, he may naturally mark its territory – rather rigorously, indoors and outdoors. A male can start breeding at the age of 1 year, so don't imagine that he's not fertile, but because he isn't fully matured.

Poodles come into “maturity”, i.e., completed growth, between 18 and 24 months. Females are not supposed to be bred until they reach 2 years old, because they need a strong developed body to carry the litter and birth it without harm, and most genetic disease testing is not valid until this age (such as for sebaciouus adenitis, hips dysplasia, and retinal atrophy). Males are fertile and able to breed after one year, but most genetic disease testing can not be done until the male is 2 years old. Determination of any potential for dysplasia can be inially scanned at 1 year, but x-rays must be at 2 years old or later to be submitted to OFA for certification of being free of dysplasia. Von Willibrands blood clotting factors and gene markers, as well as Neo Encephephalathy gene markers can be done at any time. Female heats begin at 6 months, and continue every 6 months, each lasting for about a month.

For a beautiful Poodle, neutering should not be done too early because the hormones have a significant impact on the overall musculature and beauty of your mature Poodle. For full beauty and development, neutering between the ages of 15 to 20 months is preferred to early neutering. However, in females, it is understandable that not everyone wants to deal with the bleeding and confinement . If that is the case, she may be spayed at 5 months. Both male and female are subject to increased cancer incidence, related to hormonal levels, if not neutered after maturity. Preferably neutering is done by age 6-8 for breeding dogs to minimize the risk of cancer. Breast cancer, for example, in unspade mature females is reportedly 25%.

Grooming:

The Complete Book of the Poodle gives good insight on how to groom. Oyster (a major manufacturer of clippers and blades) puts out a good video, available from the catalogue Wooltique or direct from Oyster.

Toenails. The first sign of a neglected dog is the toenails. Long toenails will eventually lead to problems with the angle of the foot, the walk, and eventually the movement of the hips. Toenails need to be cut every month, at least, to just beyond the “quick”. If your dog is sensitive, or the toenails have been allowed to grow too long, routine filing with a nail file may be necessary to get the quick to grown down to normal. If cut too close to the quick, application of styptic powder is usually enough to stop most dogs from bleeding if the nail has been cut to close. If your dog bleeds excessively, you may need to tie it up like a calf about to be branded and wrap the bleeding foot in adherent bandage, such as “veltape” which sticks to itself. If such bleeding does not stop within the hour, take the dog to the vet. It may not have adequate clotting factor in its blood.

Ears. Before starting on the ears, consider getting a head lamp with LED lights that fits around your forehead. It will save you lots of effort versus having overhead lights shine into the ear canal by moving the dog’s head as you work on the ears…exhausting!! LL Bean sells these and they are also great for wondering around the yard at night with your puppy.

Ears on Poodles are prone to infection. Their hair grows inside the ear canal and if not removed each month, infections are likely to develop. As they scratch their ear with their hind toe, they push the ear hair further into the canal, exacerbating the infection with filth from their food and more impacted ear hair. To clean the ear, ear powder (my favorite is R-7) is sprinkled in the ear and small amounts of ear hair is grabbed firmly and pulled out. If there is no infection, hair pulling from the ears doesn’t hurt . It only startles…but be gentle. With practice and a steady hand, special ear hair pullers can be used.

Aside from hair removal, you can wipe the ear with a slightly moistened cloth or cotton ball. Moistening can be done with ear cleaning solutions, such as hydrogen peroxide and water solution, cider vinegar and water solution, pre-mixed ear cleaners from the pet store, or a specific mixtures obtained from the vet. There are some very nice herbal ear cleaners made with cider vinegar, water, and soothing herbs. But, if you don’t get out all the moisture, adding these cleaning solutions may only exacerbate the eye infection and pain!! Clear ears of hair every 2 to 3 weeks; clean out wax weekly with q-tips, wipes or cotton balls.

If the ear wax is thick and deep, an herbal oil by Nature’s Farmacy, called Easy Ear will gently loosen the thick wax and it will be easy to remove the following day. Easy Ear smells DIVINE. and sold at many all-breed dog shows.

Generally, you will need to see your veterinarian at the first sign of an ear infection. Over time, you will learn to discern a very modest ear infection beginning to start and treat it quickly yourself. Such ear infections usually begin as simple yeast infection….black, sticky, smelly discharge. After careful cleaning, feminine cream for anti-yeast infection can be rubbed in the canal every day over a 2 week period to get rid of such an infection. But, if this doesn’t work within a few days, there are special ointments available from the veterinarian, e.g., Othomax works wonders for most infections.

Make sure you have washed your hands well before grooming your dog’s ears, or you might cause an infection where not currently exists. Also, wash your hands between grooming each ear, in order to avoid spreading an infection from one ear to another. If treating an ear infection, do not let any swab or syringe come in contact with the infected ear. If it does have contact, it will need to be washed before using it to treat the other ear. These infections are highly contagious and will be hard to clear up without careful hygiene.

Trimming Hair. Average Connecticut grooming costs are 80 to 100 dollars per standard poodle visit, for a normal kennel cut. For something more elaborate, it could be slightly more. Groomers charge extra for brushing out matted dogs. Good clippers will cost the equivalent of 2 to 3 grooming visits.[2] Each blade will cost from 25 to 35 dollars. Extra blades are necessary for different hair lengths, and also to switch from a hot to cool blade during trimming. Over the life of a poodle, the investment is well worth the expense. If you trim the face and feet every 3 to 4 weeks, you may extend your time between visits to the groomers to 2 or 3 months between professional groomings. Practice as you might, it is doubtful that you will learn to groom your poodle well. I have been practicing for years and am still quite bad at it. Therefore, even if you are clipping the full coat regularly, I suggest that you get a professional grooming at least twice a year, so that you can see how beautiful your poodle really is!!

It won’t take you long to learn how to handle the clippers. For new pups, for the first few days just hold the blades near them and brush them lightly with the vibrating body of the clippers to get them used to being near them. Slowly and gently shave around face, feet, anus and genitals monthly. Blade cleaning solution or blade coolant, if used, needs to be thoroughly wiped off before using the blade near any cuts or the face, as some dogs react allergically and will have significant local swelling.

Don’t overwash your poodle. Once a month is generally plenty if it has a short sporting cut (less than 1 inch in length). Weekly shampooing is recommended for a long show coat. Brushing is always done before bathing, otherwise it is not possible to truly clean the skin. Regular dog shampoo is fine to use, or baby shampoo. After washing, Poodles need to be kept warm until fully dry. If the coat is long, you must use a hair dryer and brush while drying to get a straight fluffy coat. For long coats, this drying and brushing is necessary to avoid a layer of matting at the skin. Such matting can lead to lack of air to the skin and can harbor insects and cause skin sores. Grooming is essential to healthy skin. Dogs that seem to have a bad mood are often simply those that have painful skin or ear infections.

Brush at least weekly, otherwise your poodle will have its hair become matted. Itching and rashes could follow. Brushing is more important to your dog than washing. Brushing stimulates circulation, increases the bond between you and your dog, and gives you a chance to examine your dog for bumps or cuts.

Brush your dog’s teeth using mouthwash and a clean toothbrush, preferably once a month. The toothbrush can be put in your dishwasher to clean it after use.

Vaccinations:

Vaccinations occur at: 5-6 weeks (canine distemper, measles, parainfluenza, parvovirus), 8-9 weeks (parvovirus), 12-14 (distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvovirus, rabies and corona), and 14-16 weeks(same, except for rabies), then annually for these same vaccines. Lyme vaccine may be needed, pending your veterinarian’s assessment of your area’s risk. The spacing of vaccinations is important and we recommend you keep the schedule to 3 weeks of time between each set of vaccinations. Run down or malnourished dogs may not be capable of responding to a vaccine by developing antibodies, and vaccinations could cause them harm. Such dogs may need to be revaccinated after their health is reestablished…check with your vet to be sure.

If your dog is going to visit a groomer, play with other dogs, stay in a boarding facility, attend obedience training, or play routinely in a public park, check with your vet about getting it vaccinated for canine cough. It is generally better to err on the side of getting the vaccine…than to err by not getting the vaccine. Few adult dogs die of kennel cough, but puppies are more susceptible and should probably be given this vaccine during their first year at least.

Vaccinations are essential. Rarely, a dog will have a reaction to a vaccine. Symptoms could include swelling around the muzzle, extending to the eyes. A vaccine can set up an auto-immune response and lead to heart or respiratory distress. For any reactions at all, contact your vet immediately. Vaccine reactions, while they are rare, can be deadly for a young puppy.

Fever:

The normal temperature for your dog is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit, taken with a rectal thermometer. Take your dog’s temperature occasionally when it is healthy to know its baseline temperature. If ever its temperature rises to 104, it may have heatstroke and will need to be immediately cooled down in a cool bath or shower. If the temperature is ever below 100 and the dog is shivering, unless it is a female about to birth puppies, this indicates a serious emergency.

Parasites:

Studies indicate that 75% of puppies carry roundworms, which were shed by the dame during birthing. The puppies need to be dewormed every 2-3 weeks after whelping, until the vet decides that the deworming can be ended…usually after 3 or 4 dewormings. Keep Gatorade on stock. In any case of diarrhea (they can get parasitic infections from being outdoors), they will need to receive it immediately to keep from becoming dehydrated.

To control worms, dogs should never be kenneled on dirt runs. Hose down their gravel or impermeable kennel floor routinely. Bleach and water solution can be sprayed on the gravel in the morning when there is hint of a parasite problem, allowing that area to be set aside for the day of air drying and bleach oxidation. Sunshine is able to kill parasites, so locating a run where it gets some sun each day is preferred. Keep lawns well cut and remove stools in the yard every few days or at least weekly.

We quarantine any infected adult dogs from our other adult dogs at the first sign of infectious disease. To this end, bowel movements are examined daily when the yard is cleaned up, and dogs with unattractive movements are separated until the vet has checked the stool for parasites. While it might be pleasant to teach your dog to run into the bushes to relieve itself, we suggest that is better for the dog's long term health if it does its' "business" in a more visible location.

Panacur can be used to deworm your dog every 3 to 6 months.

Ticks:

The best way to minimize ticks is to keep your dog’s exercise in groomed/mowed law areas, avoiding brush and wooded lands. Do a “tick patrol” daily. If you find a tick, pull it off and put it in a jar of alcohol. Do not crush it, as any contaminated blood could infect you.

Fleas:

Fleas are NOT an inevitable part of having a dog. Keeping the area where your dog resides well swept and/or vacuumed will go a long way to preventing fleas…by getting rid of the eggs before they hatch. A flea comb is the most effective way to get fleas off of your pet; then drop the captured fleas into a jar of alcohol. Clean bedding regularly, to avoid flea eggs hatching and getting on to your dog…use of a pile of hand towels that are washed every few days is much better than a commercial foam bed that never gets washed. You can put some cedar shavings in the bedding area, and put some drops of atlantic cedarwood essential oil and tea tree essential oil (from a health food store) on your dog's collar, to keep fleas away. Also, a few drops of neem extract in the water dish will generally discourage biting, because the taste of the dog's blood is affected by the bitter neem.

Spider and Bee Stings:

Your dog can have a serious reaction to bee stings, and death can result if swelling occurs. Some spiders (such as brown wood spiders) can be quite toxic to dogs. Contact your vet immediately if your dog shows signs of difficult breathing or swelling. Keep Benedryl always on hand and give as much as an adult dose of 50 mg upon any sign of swelling or other allergic response, while you are on your way to the vet.

Outdoor Fencing Needs:

Poodles are trainable on the electric fence as early as 6 months of age. Your pup should respond to the "Come" command before you proceed to training for the invisible fence. If done right, it takes under 2 weeks of rigorous attention. They wear a collar with a battery activated “beep” and “buzz”. If they stand next to the underground wire for more than 5 to 10 seconds, during which time they will hear a beep, then they will get a buzz. After the first month of training, they rarely (if ever) cross the line again.

Regarding the electric fence, you may want to consider how large an area to fence. If you do the woods as well as the lawn, the dog will gather quite a few ticks. Also, if you do the woods, you would have few harmless deer and turkey to enjoy watching...as they will stop coming into the fenced area. Since most raccoon, coyote, possum and other potentially dangerous (including rabid) animals are more likely to stay in the woods, it might create too much risk for the puppy to be allowed there. The invisible fence can always be expanded at a later time, after the pup is stronger and its Lyme disease immunity has increased to a modestly protective level (at about age two after some exposure as well as Lyme vaccinations). It takes them no more than a couple of days to learn the new configuration. We've changed ours at least 5 times; for example, to salvage gardens destroyed by Poodles madly digging after a new family of ground moles or chipmunks.

You should configure your fence to go around the driveway, so there is no risk that a delivery van will run over your dogs. We also have it configured around a pond, after three rescue efforts on my part in mid-winter with dogs falling through the ice (after they followed the cats out, who had no trouble crossing the ice!!). We configure spaces around our cat doors and give the cats some areas all for themselves (its amazing how quickly they figure out which spaces are theirs alone). And, we gave ourselves an exclusion zone, where we could have an outdoor meal without the table being robbed as we went back and forth to the kitchen.

Whenever you want your dog to cross the fence, you remove the collar and carry the dog across the line. Any other method of crossing (other than removing the collar and driving across the line) will only confuse the dog.

If you have other animals in your neighborhood which are of potential danger to your Poodle and you are not going to be with your Poodle when it is out, you might want to consider a chain link or wire fence. The bottom of the wire needs to be buried in the ground (usually curved with soil and gravel over it). The gate needs a concrete or wood slab below – all because Poodles are wonderful diggers and love to find their way under fences. They are also good jumpers, but most will stay inside a 4.5 foot-high fence.

They will need a shady place during all hours of the day (an umbrella will do), and should have a place where they can be out of the wind and rain. A spot of hay in one corner will be much appreciated for comfort.

Poodles do not have fur; they have fine hair. As a result, their coat is not as warm as the coat of other dogs, even those with short fur. They also do not have much oil on their coat; and thus they will get cold when wet. Puppies under 4 months should not be left out in cold weather under 50 degrees for any length of time. When they stop running around and start huddling in a crouched position, its already past the time to come inside. Rush in and towel rub them to create friction and warm them up. After 4 months, they can take temperatures down to about 35 degrees, protected from wind and wet, but only for about an hour.

Some northern sled competitors have used poodles and they are thus able to adjust to very low temperatures with conditioning. However, adult poodles generally are not keen on temperatures below freezing for any length of time. Their sensitive paws are the first body part to get cold. If they are standing looking longingly at you, with one paw lifted, or they are sitting and licking their paws, its past the time to come inside.

Genetically based Disorders in Standard Poodles:

Good breeders test their bitches and studs for the following four genetic diseases: retinal atrophy, sebacious adenitis, hip dysplasia, and von Willebrand's disease. The test results tell the breeder whether their poodle is "affected", i.e., whether it has the disease clinically, or subclinically. The test results do not give information on whether their poodle is a carrier. Our bitches are tested for these diseases and are disease-free.

As genetic diseases can result from two healthy dogs that are both carriers (or from one affected dog with a non-carrier) the breeder could unknowingly create puppies that develop a genetic disease. Only by keeping in touch with owners until the pups are about 4 years old will a breeder know if disease has developed, and then know that they have either have a carrier, or that the other dog is affected. Puppies can not be tested for most genetic diseases until they are more than 2 years old. So please keep your breeder informed if and when any of genetic diseases develop. The following are among the more known genetic diseases.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy is a disorder of the eye that gradually results in blindness and has no known cure. It is rare in standard poodles, but more common in toys and miniatures. Its onset in Poodles usually is between ages 3 to 6 years old. PRA is caused by specific "recessive" genes, contributed from both the sire and dam. New research indicates there are several forms of PRA, which complicates breeding strategies. Work with toys and miniatures is being done to determine the genetic markers. According to research results of 2002, an undiseased poodle carrying one form of PRA could be bred to another undiseased poodle with another carrying another form of PRA, based on gene marker tests, and not produce any affected dogs.

Hip Dysplasia is a condition in which the head of the femur bone fits improperly into the hip joint socket, causing pain and lameness. It is a genetic deformation, so bone building supplements won't necessarily be helpful, but there might be value in giving your pet a Tums each day during its early growth period of 6 months to 24 months. Painkillers are used and surgery is a possible remedy. OFA certification means that the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals has reviewed the dog’s hip x-rays and stated that they were free of disorder. Puppies are typically born with normal hips and dysplasia potential is rarely observed before 1 year of age. However, the pelvic deformation that will eventually lead to dysplasia it always evident through x-rays before two years of age. The extent to which a dog gets dysplasia early in life or severely will be influenced by its exercise routine. Those doing steady straight running, with their owner cyclist or jogger, may manifest dysplasia more severely and earlier than a dog that is given free range to run in varied movements and directions. Dysplasia is a complex defect; it is considered "polygenic" which means that more than one gene is involved in causing the disorder. As with a "recessive" trait, both the sire and dam must contribute one or more of the genes that cause the abnormal phenotype. Unlike recessives, the contribution from the sire and dam need not be equal.

Von Willebrand’s Disease is a disorder that involves a tendency to bleed easily…not to clot readily, under stressful surgery or injury, due to lack of a protein for clotting in the blood plasma. Spontaneous bleeding is usually seen only when dogs have less than 30% of the normal level of von Willebrand clotting factor. Most Doberman's have this disease and at levels that can literally allow bleeding to death. Probably 25 to 50% of Poodles have this disease, but nearly all those affected have a mild case which cause slow clotting but rarely could lead to death. This disease can be tested early in any pup, but the tests are not noted for being very reliable. The first sign of any problem will generally be excessive bleeding when nails are trimmed closely (use stiptic powder to help clotting on nails and put the dog in a crate for several hours so the wound is not reopened, if necessary lift the leg and apply pressure below to stem bleeding). If you observe this, be sure to tell your vet before having your pet neutered, otherwise there could be uncontrollable bleeding, or a hematoma might develop within the incision within a day or two. Von Willebrand's is caused by "recessive" genes, one contributed from both the sire and dam. It can cause death. Testing can be done anytime after birth, and will indicate the level of severity of the reduction in clotting factor.

Sebacious Adenitis is a chronic skin disorder resulting from inflamed or absent sebaceous glands, leading to scaling and hair loss. Therapeutic baths and antibiotics are treatments. Generally the dog is not uncomfortable or itching with this disease, unless the skin is not kept clean and free of infection. Some herbs that are rich in minerals for the skin might have value, in the right proportions, such as burdock, calendula, nettle and comfrey. Calendula (marigold petals) can be steeped in water to make a concentrated decoction and then applied to your pet's skin, as a soothing treatment that is herbal. Aside from being soothing, calendula (like most orange and yellow plants) is very high in vitamin A. Sebacious adenitis in poodles is caused by "recessive" genes, one contributed from each parent. It can be detected subclinically by skin biopsy at under age 1 year.

Addison’s Disease is a hormonal deficiency causing weakness, vomiting, diarrhea and physical deterioration in relatively young dogs. Fluids, glucose, corticosteroids are used to stabilize affected animals during crisis. The genetic cause of this disease is still not understood.

E

pilepsy is a neurological disorder marked by seizures brought about by abnormal electrical impulses in the brain. As in humans, it is treated with specific drugs. The genetic cause of the disease is still not understood, although it is caused by recessive genes in Keeshonds.

Bloat/Gastric Torsion is potentially deadly. Particularly deep-chested and narrow-waisted and nervous Poodles are subject to Bloat, which is a swelling of the stomach with gas, resulting in reduction in blood supply and toxicity. Affected dogs have an extended abdomen and act uncomfortable, restless, and depressed. Immediate veterinary attention is needed because death can result in 4-6 hours. Formerly, it was thought that exercise before or after eating, gulping food, or large meals could bring on bloat; but a study in 2000 at Purdue has disproved these suppositions. The genetic aspects of this disease are still not understood, but Purdue found that having a parent, sibling or offspring with bloat increased a dog's bloat risk by 63%. The risk for bloat increases with age.

Poisonous Plants:

A number of plants, bulbs and seeds are poisonous to dogs. Generally, animals stay away from poisonous plants, but to be on the safe side it would be best to keep your dogs fenced area free of these plants.

Most perennial bulbs are poisonous, including amaryllis, tulip, hyacinth, iris, narcissus and daffodil.

Many seeds are poisonous, particularly cherry pits and apple seed…both of which contain cyanide.

Some evergreens are poisonous, including japanese yew, yew, hemlock, english ivy, mistletoe, poison ivy, rhododendron, laurel, and holly.

Certain flowers are poisonous, including foxglove, delphinium, buttercup, wisteria. Excess herbs, including comfrey and marigold, can cause toxicity. But, in small doses when mixed with complementary herbs, these herbs are considered therapeutic.

Water Hemlock and Spotted Hemlock are common in shady and wet meadows. This plant is deadly in low doses. The flower looks something like Queen Ann's Lace, and the leaf is serrated and shaped something like marijuana or hemp. Use herbicides to kill the plant or pull it out entirely. The roots spread underground, like groundcover, so it requires diligent attention.

Walnuts, tobacco, toadstools, certain mushrooms, marijuana, rhubarb, elderberry, and azalea are among other poisonous items.

Note: Most dogs will avoid poisonous plants when they have free range. However, when confined and bored, they will be more likely to play with or chew whatever is available. So, be particularly careful about plants in and bordering any confined fenced areas.

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[1]Owner/Breeder of Stoney Brook Poodles (a breeding operation based on good science, holistic and harmonious environment, and a view toward allowing the poodle to optimize its natural instincts as a sporting dog), Founder of the Roxbury Horse Association, Inc. (a non-profit community support organization for horse owners which is working to maintain Roxbury's rural character by creating a horse friendly environment that attracts horse properties), Founder/President of IPLN, Inc., maker of Earth Lodge Herbals (medicinal healing herbal mixtures for horses and dogs, developed in close collaboration with area veterinarians), as well as a practicing civil/environmental engineer who has conducted strategic planning for cost-effective and environmentally safe urban solid waste management systems in over 50 developing countries. During her travels, she has met with various leaders of indigenous peoples, agriculture and herbal specialists, and native healers to foster a network for IPLN, Inc.

[2] One confusing aspect of buying clippers is deciding which blade size to get. Generally, you need three blades: fine (size 30 to 40) for the show quality trim of face and feet, medium (size 10 to 15) for general close trim, and coarse (size 3 to 5) for the body sections of the sporting cut. Clippers with an A-5 size blade are most common. We use two clippers, as they get extremely hot and one cools while the other is in use. We do not regularly use the coolant spray, especially in the face area, because we have had dogs react allergically to it and swell around the face when inhaling it.

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