ITEM QTY. PART NO. DESCRIPTION

[Pages:3]#916708

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6708

REAR END NARROWING JIG

ITEM

QTY. PART NO.

DESCRIPTION

1

2

1212 Carrier adapter Dana, OLDS, 8 3/4

2

2

1213 Carrier adapter 12 Bolt, Ford 9"

3

1

1214 Axle adapter Mustang, Taper

4

1

1215 Axle adapter Big Ford, OLDS, Mopar

5

1

1216 Axle adapter Camaro, Impala

6

1

1218 Housing alignment bar

This narrowing jig has carrier adapters for Dana 60, Chevy 12 Bolt, Ford 9" (2.891 Bore carrier), early Oldsmobile, and Mopar 8 3/4. It also contains axle end adapters for Camaro, Impala, Mustang, Mopar, Big Ford, early Oldsmobile and a taper adapter to check for tube alignment. It is highly recommended that you also purchase a pinion centerline gauge #6705. Also available is an option axle adapter #6709 for use with Strange 40 spline floater spindles.

1. Most important; the housing must be very clean, especially the inside. A tiny bit of rear end grease will mix with dirt or saw filings and make the center bar very difficult to remove. Do not hesitate to demand that all rear ends be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned.

2. On the drop-out style third members, it is best to have your own cases to eliminate the need for the customer to have to disassemble his. You will need three. An early Oldsmobile (56-63), an 8 3/4 Mopar (almost any year will do), and a 9" Ford (most late models will work as long as it has a 2.891 carrier bearing outer diameter). Make sure you mark the carrier caps so you can always put them on the same way. Make sure you tell Dana 60 and Chevy 12 Bolt customers that you will need their carrier caps.

3. Put the carrier adapters on the third members so the unused half extends to the inside. The early Oldsmobile and Mopar 8 3/4 have the same carrier bearing outside diameter, so they use the same adapter. Slide the center bar through the adapters to line them up before tightening the bearing caps. The center bar is designed to weld one end on at a time.

4. If you have to weld brackets to a housing, use this sequence: a) Cut the housing to proper length; b) Weld all brackets to housing; c) Weld axle ends on last. This procedure will minimize distortion due to welding. Most housings are not straight to start with. Consequently, when you reweld the ends it looks like the ends are not straight. This may cause customer complaints. You may need to explain to them that the housing is bent but the ends are straight.

5. Always keep the adapters clean and oiled with WD40. The center bar should be oiled with WD40 every time it is used to make installation and removal easier. Failure to do this could seize the bar. If the bar becomes nicked, use 600 grit sandpaper. Weld splatter is a real problem especially if you have a gap in the housing end joint. Never hammer on the bar or adapters to remove them; severe damage will result. If a screw on axle adapter becomes seized to the alignment bar (remember to always put anti-seize on the threads), clamp the adapter into a vise with aluminum jaw covers and use a wrench on the hex end of the alignment bar to remove it. With proper care and maintenance the fixture will last years.

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#916708

6. Support the rear axle so it is level right to left. The pinion must be level to the ground. The easiest way to do this is to make the third member, or rear cover surface 90 degrees to the ground. Do not support the rear end housing by the center bar.

7. Screw the proper axle adapters onto the alignment bar. Put anti-seize on the threads. On the Camaro, Impala and Mustang ends, slide the housing end over the bar and into the axle adapter. Use two medium size vise grips to clamp the axle adapter and housing end together. On Big Ford, OLDS, and Mopar housing ends the axle adapter is bolted to the housing end. This is because the bolts are not square and there is no flat on the housing end to align the housing end rotation. The 2 slotted holes are for Big Fords, the two holes closest to the slots are for Mopars, and the other two holes are for Oldsmobile housing ends. The flat on the axle adapter is for your protractor level. Put the alignment bar into the rear end carrier adapters. Use a protractor level on the housing flats to get the proper rotation for the housing end. This should have been measured before the ends were sawed off. Double check your housing length and tack the housing end on in 3 places, 120 degrees apart. If you have a gap, weld it last to minimize distortion. Allow the rear end to cool before removing the alignment bar. Repeat procedure for the other side.

Revision Date: June 30, 2003

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