SURVEY AND HEALTH ASSESSMENT OF NEW COSMETIC …

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Bulgarian Journal of Agricultural Science, 19 (2) 2013, 204?207 Agricultural Academy

SURVEY AND HEALTH ASSESSMENT OF NEW COSMETIC PRODUCT BASED ON NATURAL INGREDIENTS

N. GERGINOVA1*, E. IVANOVA1, K. BOZHANCHEV1, S. GENEVA1 and A. TACHEV2 1 Sofia University "St. Klmient Ohridski", Faculty of Biology, BG ? 1164 Sofia, Bulgaria 2 National Center of Public Health and Analysis, BG ? 1431 Sofia Bulgaria

Abstract

GERGINOVA, N., E. IVANOVA, K. BOZHANCHEV, S. GENEVA and A. TACHEV, 2013. Survey and health assessment of new cosmetic product based on natural ingredients. Bulg. J. Agric. Sci., Supplement 2, 19: 204?207

The modern trends in cosmetics are orientated towards searching for the use of more natural products. The purpose of this research is to analyze the qualities of a new cosmetic product (hand-made cosmetics), made entirely of natural products. For the creation of the product, a set of classical technologies was used: gradually adding the raw material, mixing and dissolving until a stable and homogenized product is created. The order in which the compounds were added is based on their physicochemical properties. The product has passed the standard quality tests: pH of 10 g.kg?1 water solution, thermo stability, homogeneity and a microbiological analysis. The cosmetic product includes ingredients used in our and some other less popular national medicines. For the base of the mixture were used ostrich oil (Oleum Struthio) and beeswax (Cera flava). Their healthy effect was enforced with almond oil (Oleum Amygdalae) and wheat germ (Oleum Tritici germinis). The characteristic aroma was achieved with the use of cinnamon oil (Oleum Cinnamoni) which further strengthens the bioactive effect. The nature of the used substances does not require additional use of emulators and preservatives. Due to the non-specific purposefulness of the components, the vaseline is expected to have a wide variety of effects such as: protection, anti-wrinkle, anti-scratch and moisturizing effect. It can also help for prevention of skin irritation, scar removal and skin nutrition.

Key words: cosmetics, vaseline, natural product, microbiology, ostrich oil

Introduction

The main purpose of this project is to learn how to use, apply and modify popular traditional cosmetic products with healing effect, which are created using a set of classical technologies and methods. The created product is based entirely on animal and natural plant ingredients, which have a positive effect on the skin when combined. The finished product was tested for antimicrobial activity against the most common pathogen microorganisms: Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Bacillus cereus, Escherichia coli. This project confirms the thesis that natural cosmetics should be researched with top priority by the dermal cosmetics laboratories, due to their high efficiency and wide-variety of effects compared to synthetic cosmetics.

*E-mail: n.gerginova@abv.bg

Materials and Methods

The materials used for creation of Ksenoleum are presented in Table 1, along with their quantities and effect on human skin. The ostrich oil is from an ostrich farm in western Bulgaria. The oils are made by "Ikarov"?. All other ingredients are homemade in different parts of Bulgaria.

The process of creation of "Ksenoleum" consists of several stages in which classical technological methods are used. The first stage is set to purify the ostrich oil by using a water bath (Bain-marie) set to 80?C for 15 min. The aim of this stage is to remove all of the impurities from the oil. By purifying the bases with a water bath, the water content is reduced to a minimum level and serves as a barrier against the development of different fungi and molds. Afterwards pure

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beeswax is added to the mixture at the same temperature conditions and is homogenized via mechanical stirring. To get a better aroma and enhance the aroma therapeutic properties of the product vanilla and cinnamon oil are added. The product is then filtered through gauze and left on room temperature to cool down. During this cooling period, the almond and grapes oils are added while the product is constantly mechanically stirred until homogenization is reached. Before the finished vaseline cools down completely, it is transferred into a suitable for storage container. For continuous storage, low temperatures are recommended (around 5?C).

In order to test the product for antimicrobial activity were used the two methods ? agar disc diffussion technique (Petri plate containing an agar medium is inoculated with a culture of the test organism) and serial dilution method for determination of the minimal bactericidal concentration (MBC) ? the lowest concentration of the studied sample which exterminated over 99,9 g.kg-1 of the cells in the starting untreated inoculate.

The synthesized compound was screened for antibacterial activity against four bacterial strains. i.e., Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Bacillus cereus, Escherichia coli (Uzunova, 2004) using the Kirby-Bauer

agar disc diffusion technique (Bauer AW, 1996) and serial dilution method (Bauer, 1996).

Overlays of each test strain (1 to 2 x 108 CFU/ml) were prepared on agar plates and allowed to dry. The plates are then inoculated. The predetermined battery of antimicrobial discs is dispensed onto the surface of the inoculated agar plate. The plates are inverted and placed into an incubator set to 35?C within 15 min after the discs are applied for 16-18 hours after which inhibitory zones were measured (in mm). All tests were done in triplicate.

Serial dilution method (broth dilution method) was used to test the MBC (minimal bactericidal concentration). Test compounds (8 ml) were mixed with stock dilutions of the antibiotics (2 ml of 1000 mg/L and 100 mg/L). Each of the dilutions is inoculated with one drop of an overnight broth culture of the test organism diluted approximately to 1 in 1000 in a suitable broth and a second row with a control organism of known sensitivity similarly diluted is prepared. The tubes are incubated for 24 hours at 37?C. All tests were done in triplicate. The highest dilution showing at least 99 g.kg-1 inhibition is taken as MBC.

Most products of this type require the use of different stabilizers to get this effect, but in this case, they are not necessary.

Table 1 Natural ingedients of the product

Ingredient

Ostrich Oil

Beeswax

Almond Oil

Grapes Oil Vanilla Cinnamon Oil Wheat embryo - lipid extract

Latin name Oleum Struthio

Cera flava Oleum Amygdalae Oleum vitis vinifera Fructus vanillae Oleum Cinnamoni Oleum Tritici germinis

Quantity for 1.10?1 kg

Effect

70.10?3 kg

for topical relief of dry skin, burns, lesions, contact dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, sunburn, chapped lips, muscular pain, hair growth, dry hair, bed sores, fine lines and wrinkles, softs cracked heels and scratches- regenerating effect (Uma Devi Palanisamy, 2011)

non-comedogenic effects (Amany, M. M. Basuny, 2011)

anti-inflammatory properties, penetrates deeply in the skin, helps cell membranes (Amany, M. M. Basuny, 2011)

5.10?3 kg creates a protective layer on the skin (Sherman., 2009 )

propolis ( Sherman. R, 2009 )

anti-inflammatory and antiseptic(Al-Waili, 2005)

9.10?3 l protection from free radicals (Ahmad, 2010)

improves the elastic properties of the skin( Amon, 2007)

high absorption (Amon, 2007)

6.10-3 l antioxidant (Bail S., 2008)

revitalizating effect (Bail, 2008)

0,2.10?3 kg sedative effect ( Bythrow, 2005)

5.10?5 l repellent and anti-bacterial effect (M.Grieve, 2012)

5.10?3 kg

antioxidant ( Ke-Xue Zhu, 2011) nurturing effect

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N. Gerginova, E. Ivanova, K. Bozhanchev, S. Geneva and A. Tachev

Table 2

Results of the property tests ? "Ksenoleum"

Category test Physical and morphological tests

Physicochemical tests

Organoleptic tests

Properties Color

(ISO 3741:1980) Consistency

(ISO 3741:1980) Aroma

(ISO 3741:1980) pH of a 10 g.kg?1

water extract (ISO 4316:1994) Emulsion type (ISO 3741:1980) Emulsion stability (ISO 3741:1980) Thermal stability (ISO 3741:1980)

Expiration date

Water and volatile substances

(ISO 3741:1980) Absorbtion

Skin exposure test

Results

yellow (result of the ostrich oil), opaque

semi-rigid, solid, typical for these kinds of cosmetic products

vanilla and cinnamon

4,00 (the standard acceptable range of pH for a product for daily use is 4,0?5,5 pH). Products with more acidic pH have an antimicrobial effect and nurture the skin when it gets older and its pH levels lower

water/oil (water percentage ? 1,5 g.kg?1; oil percentage ? 98,5 g.kg?1)

does not separate into its compounds. The product stays homogenized even after 4 months, which is a result of the solid bonding of the base compounds and the added oils in a wide range of temperatures (?10?C? +40?C) the product does not separate into its compounds and retains its activity and chemical properties this research is currently ongoing. The product has been tested for 3 months and when stored in an opaque container between 5? and 10?C the product retains its properties

1,5 g.kg?1 (the standard acceptable range for this type of products is between 1,0 g.kg?1 and 4,62 g.kg?1).

high absorption (depending on the type of skin), due to the base oils used The product gives a light natural shine to the skin without coloring it or making it "greasy"

Results and Discussion

The result of the conducted experiment is vaseline made out entirely of natural ingredients. The finished product has been subdued to a series of basic tests, aimed to prove its durability, stability in certain conditions and its antimicrobial effect. The results are compatible with the standards for this type of cosmetic products. The results are presented in Table 2 .

The product is used as dermatological softener, which creates an adipose protective layer on the skin, preventing dust and water particles from getting into the skin pores of the face and body. A healing effect of wounds and scars is an additional important property provided by the ostrich oil.

Table 3 Results from microbial test

Test-

Staphylococcus aureus Pseudomonas aeruginosa Bacillus cereus Escherichia coli

Ksenoleum

Inhibition zone, mm

MBC, g.kg?1

11.2

0.5

4.8

0.8

12.2

0.4

6.3

0.8

MBC ? minimal bactericidal concentration

To test the antimicrobial activity the following microorganisms were used: Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Bacillus cereus, Escherichia coli and the results are presented in Table 3.

The results show that Ksenoleum has antimicrobial activity against the used microorganisms. From a more thorough analysis of the results, it can be concluded that Grampositive bacteria are more sensitive towards Ksenoleum. The probable cause for that the difference of the architecture of the cellular wall and the diffusion in the tested product.

Conclusion

From the prior researches of the separate compounds and from the conducted tests on the product a series of properties stand out. The presence of propolis from the beeswax in "Ksenoleum" determines the antiseptic properties of the product and its effect against infections. . The presence of almond oil gives the product an anti-wrinkling effect. The oils used enhance the formation of collagen and elastin in the dermis. For better aroma and a sedative effect, vanilla and cinnamon oil are used. The low pH levels of "Ksenoleum" have antibacterial effect and slow down the aging of skin cells. If used over long periods the product is expected to have an anti-scarring effect.

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Acknowledgments This research work was supported by Assoc. Prof. An-

eli Nedelcheva and Assistant Prof. Anita Tosheva, Ph.D. from Department of Botany in Biological faculty of Sofia University "St. Kliment Ohridski", Mihail Iliev , Ph.D from Department of Microbiology in Biological Faculty of Sofia University "St. Kliment Ohridski".

References

Ahmad, Z., 2010. The uses and properties of almond oil, PubMed, .

Al-Waili, N. S., 2005. Mixture of Honey, Beeswax and Olive Oil Inhibits Growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans, Arch Med Res. .

Amon, U., 2007. Evaluation of a Moisturizing Cream Containing Sweet Almond Oil and Gyceryl Polymethacrylate in Patients with Chronic Inflammatory Skin Diseases, Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 119 (1) .

Bail, S., 2008. Characterisation of various grape seed oils by volatile compounds, triacylglycerol composition, total phenols and antioxidant capacity, Food Chemistry, 108 (3) .

Bauer, A. W. and W. M. M. Kirby, 1996. Antibiotic susceptibility

testing by a standardized single disk method. American Journal of Clinical Pathology, 36: 49?52. Bythrow, J. D., 2005. Vanilla as a Medicinal Plant. Seminars in Integrative Medicine, 3 (4), . Grieve, M., 2012. A Modern Herbal Cinnamon, ISO 3741:1980, 1980. Standards in the field of cosmetic products, raw materials for production of cosmetic products, natural and aromatic products. ISO 4316:1994, 1994. National standard for Determination of pH of aqueous solutions- Potentiometric method Ke-Xue Zhu, 2011. Antioxidant activities and total phenolic contents of various extracts from defatted wheat germ. Food Chemistry, 26 (3), . Palanisamy, U., M. Sivanathan, A. K. Radhakrishnan, N. Haleagrahara, T. Subramaniam and G. S. Chiew, 2011. An Effective Ostrich Oil Bleaching Technique Using Peroxide Value as an Indicator. Molecules, 16: 5709?5719. Sherman, R., 2009. Encyclopedia of Insects (2nd Ed.). pp. 618?620. Uzunova, S., A. Tachev, A. Bainova, I. Iordanova, L. Tschipilska, L. Metschkueva and T. Ivanov, 2004. The indicators and the eligible levels for microbiological and chemical purity of the cosmetic products and verification methods of conformity with those indicators

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