Fear and Loathing (Unfounded) in New Orleans



Fear and Loathing (Not!) in New Orleans

There’s no reason to not come to ALA in New Orleans…………..

but pack some extra patience.

After the non-starting SARS epidemic that nearly ruined the Toronto ALA/CLA conference, it seemed best to spend some time on the ground in New Orleans to see what is really going on. In a thirty-hour span which included a walking tour of the warehouse district, the convention center, Riverwalk, several hotels and the obligatory stroll down Bourbon Street, I saw a great deal that was out of the ordinary in New Orleans but nothing that would cause me undue concern about planning a conference, a business trip, or even a family vacation here.

That’s not to say everything is business—or entertainment—as usual; far from it. The first thing one notices at the airport is the lack of airplanes. Apparently the flights coming in are filled but the airlines can’t hire enough people to service more aircraft and the airport and concessionaires likewise can’t find staff to support more travelers. The moral of that: Book your flight NOW!

On the drive from the airport things are a bit ---messy. But when haven’t they been? Truly the only obvious things I saw that seemed to result from Katrina were the groups of flooded and looted cars parked where they had been under the freeway ramps when the hurricane hit. And remember all the photos of the Hyatt Hotel with the windows broken out? That hotel is a LONG way from the convention area. Right across the street from the Super Dome, in fact. And it was the tiles from the poorly constructed roof of that facility that hit the Hyatt and caused all the damage.

As is the case at the airport, lack of service people seemed to be the norm everywhere I went. The hotels aren’t cleaning rooms of stay-overs every day; managers are bussing tables; cabs are in short supply; and you may have to take your own bags to your room. If that’s a serious concern, staff will be there but maybe not as quickly as you would expect.

Work seems to be progressing well on the convention center. The hospital has been removed from the end that received the media coverage. The end where ALA will be—remember the Center is over a mile long—was largely untouched but is receiving new carpets and paint as this is being written. The Riverwalk shopping center is functional but many of the stores are still closed. The food court is starting to come back to life and, in a real sign of normalcy, the man who has operated the Café du Monde stand on Level 1 of the Riverwalk for twenty years is still there. His attitude: “H_ll, a freighter come through the door and didn’t run me off …a little wind don’t matter.”

Venturing toward the French Quarter one notices signs of what has passed. Holes remain where trees we toppled and since removed. Many sidewalks are partially blocked to allow for overhead repair and reconstruction, there are frequent heaps of damaged materials awaiting pick-up, and there is litter everywhere. Again, lack of people seems to be the primary reason for the litter. Repair and reconstruction are receiving priority treatment and those workers who are available simply can’t be spared for litter patrol.

Bourbon Street was populated—albeit more thinly than I’ve seen—with the usual mix of vacationers, college students, and the normal cadre of characters who seem to have been there forever. And despite the coating of lake water, oil, chemicals, and who knows what, the odor hasn’t changed. Truly the flood brought nothing beneficial.

It was a Monday night when I was in town and many of the good restaurants that have reopened were observing their normal Monday closing. Redfish Grill was a welcome exception, with ample white-clad staff and a good supply of oysters. By 7:00 hungry tourists were placing their names on a waiting list or ambling off to nearby busy bars. The solo walk back to the hotel in the warehouse district was uneventful but, as in any city, I’d advise against walking alone away from busy areas.

Everyone I talked with in New Orleans was planning for better times. Restaurants are re-opening, hotels are finding more staff, and the refuse from the hurricane is being carted away. I didn’t get into the areas that suffered the worst of the damage but a side-trip near the Tulane campus on the way to the airport showed clearly that the people of New Orleans have lived through something much worse than not having their luggage carried or their shower cleaned every day. If we arrive with reasonable expectations and a willingness to be patient, our presence can help the city recover while we have a quality conference. Laissez Bon Temps Roulez!

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