Body Condition



GUIDELINES FOR EQUINE CARE AND HEALTH

Published by Selangor SPCA Equine

April 2008

CONTENTS

Introduction and diagrams ……………………………………………………………………… 2

1. Body Condition ………………………………………………………………………………. 4

2. Body Condition Diagrams and Scale ………………………………………………………… 5

3. Body Weight …………………………………………………………………………………. 7

4. Feeding and Feed Composition …………………………………………………….………… 9

5. Grooming …………………………………………………………………………………….. 13

6. Yard and Stable Management …………………………………………………………………15

7. When to Call Your Vet ………………………………………………………………………17

References ………………………………………………………………………………………...20

Introduction

This guide is produced by the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, and intended to outline some basic principles of horse care and management, particularly for people living and working with horses in Malaysia today. These guidelines are only intended as such and a vet must always be consulted when in any doubt. We hold ourselves not liable for damages or consequential losses, direct or indirect arising from following the guidelines.

There are still too many cases of equine neglect and cruelty in the world, though it is often found that this is a result of ignorance, rather than malice. A basic education could prevent a lot of this needless suffering. Care of any horse requires a huge commitment, both financially and in terms of time. We cannot stress enough that it is unwise to take on the care of a horse if you are unsure of how much you can realistically commit. The level of care should NEVER correlate with your finances. If you cannot afford to maintain your horse, find a home for your horse – sell or lease him out. Abandoning a horse is tantamount to neglect as is omission to properly care for you horse and under the Animals Act 1953 it’s a penal offence which may result in gaol time. Saying this, however, spending time looking after horses can be one of the most rewarding occupations available, and the uses of horses today vary hugely. For example, sports such show-jumping, polo and endurance, or physiotherapy through organisations such as Riding for the Disabled, to uses in farming, from herding sheep, to hunting vermin.

We hope this guide will prove useful, and please feel free to contact the SPCA equine division (details can be found at end of booklet) should you have any further questions.

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1. BODY CONDITION

In accordance with the 1953 Animal Welfare Act, the Malaysian veterinary authorities and police officers have the right to impose penalty on anybody deemed to have mistreated or neglected horses under their care. This includes failing to supply sufficient food or water.

For an image of how healthy your horse is, and to understand his feeding needs, it can be useful to find its place on the condition scale on the next page – from the horse’s appearance, it will correspond to a number between 0 (‘Very Poor’ condition) to 5 (‘Very Fat’).[1]

Healthy horses will range between 2 - 4, depending on breed, type and activities. For example, endurance horses or polo ponies who are actively competing will have a trim and fit appearance, whereas a stallion who is actively breeding will usually maintain a fleshy condition.

It is sadly a common myth that simply because a horse is ‘old’ this justifies being in a very poor condition. No horse’s condition should ever fall below 1.5 on the scale – this is cruel and would create very serious health risks.

[pic]Old horses needn't be in poor Condition - Lady and Cochise, above, are both nearly 40!

2. BODY CONDITION DIAGRAMS AND SCALE

0 – Very Poor

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3. BODY WEIGHT

This table shows healthy, ideal body weight ranges, based on the Body Condition Scale. Any horse whose image seems most like 2 and below, or 4 and above will not lie within these healthy values, and so will need its diet adjusted to reach an acceptable weight.

|Height (Hands) |Healthy Weight (kg) |

|12 |200-260 |

|13 |270-350 |

|14 |320-400 |

|15 |410-470 |

|16 |450-510 |

An ideal way to find a horse’s body weight would be by weighing, though one must remember to subtract the weight values of tack and handler. It can also be estimated from a girth measurement – perhaps an easier, if less precise method. This should be taken as the horse has breathed out and not just before or after food or exercise.

[pic]

Taking a girth measurement

|PONIES |

|Girth (cm) |Average Weight (kg) |

|50 |166 |

|52.5 |195 |

|55 |227 |

|57.5 |254 |

|HORSES |

|Girth (cm) |Average Weight (kg) |

|55 |244 |

|57.5 |278 |

|60 |318 |

|62.5 |347 |

|65 |386 |

|67.5 |420 |

|70 |459 |

|72.5 |494 |

|75 |528 |

|77.5 |579 |

(Picture and table taken from Stafford and Oliver, 1999, page 27)

4. FEEDING

GENERAL GUIDELINES

1. WATER

• Provide a clean, constant supply of water

• Avoid giving water straight after feed

• Dampen feed

2. QUALITY

• Food should be clean and of the best quality available.

• Check expiry date and don’t use feed that has passed this date

• Check for vermin – store food in such a way to minimise vermin contamination

• Do not use food that has been contaminated or is rotten. Drying previously soiled or wet food is not recommended.

• The importance of the above cannot be stressed enough. Poor quality food is detrimental to your horse’s welfare and can result in sickness and death.

3. TIMING

• Feed little and often - the total feed quantity (eg. 8 kg daily feed for a 400kg horse in light work) should be divided throughout the day with hay at night. 2 meals a day is satisfactory though 3 or 4 meals is preferable.

• Try to keep to the same feeding times each day

• Allow 1 ½ - 2 hours after having finished eating before the horse resumes work – failing to do so will cause colic as food cannot be properly digested

• Introduce all changes in food gradually - mix it with the old food in gradually increasing volume and decrease old feed correspondingly

___________________________________________________________________________________

FEED COMPOSITION

• ‘Roughage’ should make up the bulk of your horses’ diet, and generally in Malaysia this would be chaff, although it should be remembered that there is little nutritional value in this feedstuff – it can’t be fed on its own

• ‘Concentrate’ refers to the form in which your horses are fed grains (for example: oats, corn, barley etc). It is often recommended to feed this in the form of a horse and pony ‘cube’ or ‘nut’ mix, as these are an economic and efficient way to provide your horses with the varied nutrients they need, without having to store, measure and mix specific grains.

• Horses must be fed something succulent everyday. This can be freshly cut grass, although there are many dangers with feeding this: -Grass not fed immediately can ferment and rot, causing colic if eaten – Poisonous plants can be hidden in the grass, so it should be inspected before feeding –Make sure you find out the source of the grass fed to your horses - Remember grass should never be a prime or sole food source as grass in Malaysia does not provide the requisite proteins and nutrition and this is especially observed with imported horses

• As they will sweat in the heat, it is vital to replenish your horses’ salts levels with an electrolytes/salts supplement, particularly brood mares and horses doing hard work. If the economy of this is an issue, a handful of ordinary rock salt given daily will substitute; though will clearly be of a poorer quality

| |

|HORSES AND PONIES IN LIGHT WORK |

| |

|A pony in light work should be fed around 2% of its body weight daily. Of this, around 80-90% should be roughage, and |

|around 10-20% should be concentrate/ grains |

| |

|Size of Equine |

| |

|Daily feed |

| |

|200kg pony |

|(Under 12H) |

|Total size: 4kg |

|Roughage: 3.2-3.6kg |

|Concentrate: 0.8-0.4kg |

| |

|300kg pony (around 13H) |

|Total size: 6kg |

|Roughage: 4.8-5.4kg |

|Concentrate: 1.2-0.6kg |

| |

|400kg horse |

|(14-15H) |

|Total size: 8kg |

|Roughage: 6.4-7.2kg |

|Concentrate: 1.6-0.8kg |

| |

|500kg horse |

|(16H and over) |

|Total size: 10kg |

|Roughage: 8-9kg |

|Concentrate: 2-1kg |

| |

| |

|*Salts and something succulent should be added |

| |

|ENDURANCE HORSES – NON-COMPETING/ RESTING (c. 15hh-16hh) |

| |

|Each needs to be fed around 2.5% of its body weight daily, with this comprising 55% roughage to 45% concentrate |

| |

|Size of equine |

|Daily Feed |

| |

|400kg |

|Total: 10kg |

|Roughage: 5.5kg |

|Concentrate: 4.5kg |

| |

|500kg |

|Total: 12.5kg |

|Roughage: 6.9kg |

|Concentrate: 5.1kg |

| |

| |

|*As these horses’ work will leave them perspiring and so losing salts, an electrolytes supplement is essential |

|* A succulent must be added each day |

| |

|BROOD MARES |

| |

|Lactating mares; foal aged 0-3 months |

|Daily feed should weigh 3% of mare’s body weight: 50% roughage, 50% concentrate |

|Extra roughage should always be available at this stage as the mare may require it |

| |

|Size of equine |

|Daily feed |

| |

|12hh – 250kg |

|Total size: 7.5kg |

|Roughage: 3.75kg |

|Concentrate: 3.75kg |

| |

|13hh – 345kg |

|Total size: 10.5kg |

|Roughage: 5.25kg |

|Concentrate: 5.25kg |

| |

|14hh – 400kg |

|Total size: 12kg |

|Roughage: 6kg |

|Concentrate: 6kg |

| |

|15hh – 465kg |

|Total size: 14kg |

|Roughage: 7kg |

|Concentrate: 7kg |

| |

|16hh – 520kg |

|Total size: 15.5kg |

|Roughage: 7.75kg |

|Concentrate: 7.75kg |

| |

| |

|With foal aged between 3 months to weaning |

|Daily feed should weigh 2.25% of body weight and be 65% roughage, 35% concentrate |

| |

|Size of equine |

|Daily feed |

| |

|12hh- 250kg |

|Total size: 5.6kg |

|Roughage: 3.6kg |

|Concentrate: 2kg |

| |

|13hh – 345kg |

|Total size: 7.8kg |

|Roughage: 5kg |

|Concentrate: 2.8kg |

| |

|14hh – 400kg |

|Total size: 10kg |

|Roughage: 6.5kg |

|Concentrate: 3.5kg |

| |

|15hh – 465kg |

|Total size: 11.6kg |

|Roughage: 7.5kg |

|Concentrate: 4.1kg |

| |

|16hh – 520kg |

|Total size: 13kg |

|Roughage: 8.5kg |

|Concentrate: 4.5kg |

| |

| |

As the feeding requirements for horses who are actively competing are complicated and intricate, they are covered in more detail elsewhere. Foals have similarly delicate feeding requirements and so expert guidance is essential in all matters of this nature, and most particularly for these vulnerable types.

5. GROOMING

All horses should be groomed daily, for three main reasons. Firstly, a daily grooming allows you to get to know your horse’s normal condition and to quickly discover any problems such as cuts, grazes, heat and swelling, so that they can be quickly treated. Secondly, grooming is necessary for your horse’s health – to aid blood circulation through its massaging effect, and to remove the dead cells and hairs that can cause scurf, resulting in skin irritations. Finally, for appearance sake, a clean, healthy, well-groomed horse will be by far in its most attractive state.

Grooming Kit

Process:

Horses should be given a full grooming daily, and it is best to do this after exercise as this is when pores are open and most scurf is at the coat surface. Before exercise the horse should be given a brush down with a body brush, hooves picked out, and eyes nostrils and dock sponged. It is vital that the horse is completely clean underneath his saddle and bridle, as anything underneath these will cause rubbing and so saddle sores and pain.

A full grooming will usually run like the following:

• Pick out the feet. Work downwards from the heel to the toe, to avoid inserting the hoof pick in the sensitive frog. Check for signs of thrush. Check the shoes – tap the toe to ensure it’s secure and run fingers over the clenches to check if they’re risen.

• Brush through the mane. Throw it to the far side and brush the crest thoroughly. Working your way down the neck, brush through a few locks of hair at a time, starting at the ends and working up to the roots.

• Groom the body. Take a body brush in the left hand, and a curry comb in the right hand to clean this, work your way down the body from the poll region. Remember to be gentler in the more sensitive areas and he clean the curry comb by tapping it against the wall. A dandy brush can be used first on grass-kept horses with thicker coats to remove dirt, sweat and scurf. A cactus cloth is an alternative for this for more sensitive, stabled horses.

• Groom the head. Use only a body brush for this and take care, as this is a very sensitive area which will be hurt by rougher brushes. Remove the headcollar and use your free hand the steady the head.

• Brush the tail. Take a few strands of hair at a time, shake free, work through thick tangles with fingers, then brush with a body brush, starting at the ends. Be careful of breaking hairs and removing too much.

• Finish by – ‘laying’ the mane and tail with a damp water brush –applying hoof oil over the hoof wall –polishing the coat with a stable rubber in the direction of hair growth.

Grooming and Infectious Diseases

It is unwise to share brushes between horses, as this aids the spread of infectious diseases. As this can sometimes prove difficult, one should try to share brushes between as few horses as possible, and should give all brushes a weekly clean, using a diluted disinfecting solution. However, it is important that this is thoroughly washed off, as any solution remaining can irritate a horse’s skin.

6. YARD AND STABLE MANAGEMENT

Bedding

All stabled horses need some form of bedding to allow them to lie down and rest, and to prevent damage to their feet and legs from standing on a hard surface over long periods of time.

Wood shavings (often called ‘sawdust’), is a popular choice for bedding as it is readily available, reasonably priced, and easy to maintain. Other popular choices include rice hulls and straw.

Mucking out

For hygiene reasons, wet and soiled bedding should be removed frequently, along with any droppings, and the whole bed should be forked and raked over daily. If possible, it is advisable to sweep all bedding to the side to let air circulate over the stable ground for a few hours each day. Sweeping to a different wall edge each day will insure there is no area left without this free air-circulation, and makes it harder for vermin such as snakes and rats to establish nests.

Paddock and Stable Size

Stables need to be large enough to freely and comfortably move around and lie down to rest and so should measure about 3.6m² for a horse and 3.6m x 3m for a pony. Doorways should be wide – over 1.1m, and the entrance high enough that it does cause create any safety issues – usually about 2.1m high. The lower door should be about 1.25m high. Certain important factors should be taken into consideration when building these stables such as:

• Fire evacuation – if stables are along a passageway it is important to be able to evacuate from both sides.

• Drainage – water should be able to easily drain out of the stables and away from the area

• Light and air – fresh air circulating and natural lighting will create a healthier, more pleasant environment for your horse

Being all day in a stable is not a natural state for a horse – in the wild they would be continually grazing and exercising themselves as needed. It is therefore of huge benefit to put the stabled horse out to graze whenever possible.

Paddocks must be safely and securely fenced – inadequate fencing not only may allow your horse to escape and cause havoc, but can result in injury. Post-and rail fencing, made of wood or heavy duty plastic is ideal, and must be kept in good repair. It’s also important to ensure your horse has shelter from the sun, whether this be through trees, walls or shelter-sheds. Shelter sheds carry the added advantage that they provide shelter from rain, therefore reducing risk of illness such as rain scald.

Ideally, horses living out permanently should have about 1 acre of land per horse, and just as stables should be mucked out, so droppings should be removed from paddocks. Failing to do so in unhygienic, encourages vermin, can be responsible for worms, and results in poor-quality, unappetising grazing.

Whether your horse is stabled, or lives permanently out, the feeding rule that he must always have access to a clean, fresh supply of water, still remains. As this is a hot country, it is very easy for horses to dehydrate, and any owner who does not ensure this water supply is guilty of cruelty and neglect.

Vermin

A large number of vermin species can be found in most Malaysian stables – often this is rats and mice, or small insects and their lavae. As these species are responsible for the spread of poor hygiene and infections, measures should be taken to discourage them. Most important, is to keep all food, for both horses and people, sealed in air-tight containers that vermin cannot penetrate, and to clear away any that is finished with or dropped on the ground. It is also important to keep your muck heap far from any stables, as it is here that vermin will often choose to nest.

|7. HEALTH | |

| | |

|Even with the best of care, horses can suffer from occasional bouts of ill health, injury or related conditions. The role | |

|of a horse keeper is to reduce the risk of common ailments occurring, to recognise signs that a horse is unwell or injured,| |

|and to take measures to ensure that the horse receives appropriate treatment. | |

|Skin conditions | |

|Ringworm | |

|This is a contagious fungal infection of the skin that spreads by direct and indirect contact, so infected horses should be| |

|isolated wherever possible, strict hygiene measures should be adopted and veterinary advice sought. Infection shows | |

|initially as tufts of raised hair, which eventually fall off, leaving weeping lesions. | |

|Often circular in shape, these lesions may vary in size and density, and usually occur around the head, neck, saddle and | |

|girth regions. The horse’s immediate environment also becomes infected, so bedding material should be destroyed and the | |

|stable, plus all tack, and equipment should be washed thoroughly with a fungicidal disinfectant. | |

|Rainscald | |

|Rainscald is a skin infection caused by a softening of the skin following persistent saturation. This can occur in horses | |

|that have a weakened immunity or are already in poor condition and lack the natural grease in their coat to keep warm and | |

|dry. It can also occur when leaking or non-breathable turnout rugs are used, when there is poor air circulation under the | |

|rug and when the horse’s back is constantly getting wet with moisture from rain or sweat. | |

|An affected horse may show patchy hair loss along the back and quarters. The hair can become matted, and the skin may | |

|develop sores and weeping lesions. To prevent a horse from getting rainscald, ensure that it always has access to shelter | |

|from the field and that rugs are of a correct type for the conditions and maintained accordingly. | |

|Mudfever | |

|This is a skin condition usually associated with wet and muddy conditions. The skin of the legs and the stomach become | |

|inflamed and scaly and, in severe cases, the horse may develop a high temperature or fever. The infection is caused by | |

|bacteria that enters the waterlogged skin and causes scabs to form, sealing in the infection. | |

|Always ensure that the legs are cleaned well after work or time in the field. Either wash off and then ensure that the legs| |

|are properly dried or leave the mud to dry and then brush it off with a soft brush. If the horse has clipped legs, it is a | |

|good idea to apply a barrier cream to prevent the skin from becoming water logged. | |

|Cracked heels | |

|These are caused by the same conditions as mud fever. It is advisable to keep the legs and stomach as clean and dry as | |

|possible, and applying a protective cream might also help. Extra care is needed when dealing with heels because they are | |

|close to the ground and therefore more susceptible to becoming waterlogged. Always ensure that legs are cleaned well after | |

|work or time in the field. | |

|Sweet itch | |

|Sweet itch is an inflammation of the skin as a result of an allergic reaction, which is also called Summer Seasonal | |

|Recurrent Dermatitis (SSRD). It is caused by a biting midge called Culicoides, and the itching is caused by an allergic | |

|reaction to the saliva of the female midge. In most cases the horse will become itchy along the back, especially around the| |

|mane and tail. In extreme cases, the horse can rub itself raw trying to relieve the itching. | |

|Susceptible horses usually develop the condition for the first time as youngsters and, once it has occurred, the horse will| |

|continue to suffer from it (although environmental conditions play a large part in whether a horse will show signs or not).| |

|Control of sweet itch | |

|Apply an insect repellent regularly, but be careful that the horse does not develop a reaction. The skin of a horse with | |

|sweet itch is usually sensitive and repellents are not suitable if the skin is sore or broken. Veterinary advice should be | |

|sought. | |

|Midges are most active at dawn and dusk, and on mild, humid and still days, so keeping the horse in the stable or under | |

|shelter during this time will help to minimise biting Midges are attracted to areas of decomposing vegetation found in | |

|woodland and near to water. It is therefore better to graze affected horses in drier, open areas. | |

|Special sweet itch rugs can be bought that cover the horse from poll to tail to stop the midges getting access to the skin | |

|and to protect from rubbing. These can be useful as they can be worn in or out of the stable. | |

|Respiratory conditions | |

|Common Cold | |

|This is usually indicated by white or yellow discharge from the nose. The horse may have a slightly higher temperature than| |

|usual and glands in the throat may become swollen. It is usually caused by a viral infection contracted by contact with | |

|other infected horses. | |

|Horses may become more susceptible if they are kept in a badly ventilated stable or lorry for long periods of time. Horses | |

|often catch colds if they are competing at shows, due to the close proximity of other horses from different areas of the | |

|country. | |

|It is important to call the veterinary surgeon immediately and keep the horse isolated as the virus can spread to other | |

|horses. Keep the horse warm and in a well-ventilated, dust-free area. Try to feed with soft food that is easy to swallow | |

|and well-soaked hay. Try not to let the horse drink from public water troughs at competitions, and always take your own | |

|water supply. | |

|Cough | |

|There are three main types of coughs that occur in horses. The first is associated with a common cold and normally starts | |

|with the occasional cough accompanied by a watery discharge from the nose. Then, after approximately two weeks, the | |

|discharge will change colour to white or yellow and the cough will increase in frequency. | |

|The other two types are coughs caused by a viral or bacterial infection, and coughs as an allergic reaction (usually to | |

|dust). If the horse is stabled, ensure that bedding is dust free (either wood or paper shavings), all hay has been soaked, | |

|and that the stable is well ventilated. | |

|If a horse has a cough, the animal must stop working unless advised otherwise by the veterinary surgeon. It is also | |

|advisable to keep the horse away from others until the type of cough has been established, as types one and two can be | |

|infectious. | |

|Other conditions | |

|Colic | |

|Colic is the term used to describe abdominal pain. It can indicate a problem with the gut itself or other organs within the| |

|abdomen. There are many causes of colic, ranging from simple indigestion to a serious twisted gut. In all cases of | |

|suspected colic, immediate veterinary advice should be sought. | |

|Signs of colic include: | |

|a restless horse, pawing at the ground or attempting to roll excessively | |

|unexplained sweating and rapid or laboured breathing | |

|unusually irritable, looking at or attempting to kick its stomach | |

|stretching as if to urinate or attempting to pass dung without result | |

|elevated pulse rate and temperature | |

|Laminitis | |

|This is a painful and debilitating condition. Prevention is always better than cure as, when not treated quickly or | |

|correctly, it can cause permanent damage, which may result in euthanasia. Horses in a "fat body" condition are more prone | |

|to laminitis and similar metabolic disorders. | |

|Signs of acute (sudden and severe) laminitis include: | |

|increased digital pulse in the lower limb | |

|lame with an inability or reluctance to walk or move | |

|lying down and displaying an unwillingness to get up | |

|rocking back onto heels when standing, limbs out stretched | |

|leaning back onto hind feet to relieve pressure from the front feet | |

|Laminitis can be very serious and early veterinary attention is essential. | |

|THE ABOVE IS REPRODUCED WITH KIND PERMISSION FROM THE BRITISH BLUE CROSS, PLEASE SEE WWW..UK | |

|Thrush | |

|Thrush is a fungal infection of the foot, usually in the frog. It can cause lameness, though does not always. Symptoms | |

|include a foul smell from the area and a black discharge from the frog. | |

|It is caused by being in damp conditions and poor hoofcare. Malaysian horses are particularly susceptible due to the hot, | |

|humid climate. Bedding should therefore be kept clean and dry, the feet picked out at least once a day, and the farrier | |

|visited regularly for hoof trimmings. | |

| | |

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[1] Please refer to Carroll, C.L. and Huntington, P.J. (1988)  Body Condition Scoring and Weight Estimation in Horses Equine Veterinary Journal 20(1)

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4 – Fat

Pelvis

Gutter to root of tail

Pelvis Covered by Soft Fat

Need firm pressure to feel

Back and Ribs

Ribs well covered – need pressure to feel

Neck

Slight crest

Wide and firm

3 – Good

Pelvis

Covered by fat and rounded

No gutter

Pelvis easily felt

Back and ribs

Ribs just covered and easily felt

No gutter along back

Backbone well covered but spine can be felt

Neck

No crest (except for stallions)

Firm neck

5 – Very Fat

Pelvis

Deep gutter to root of tail

Skin distended

Pelvis buried, cannot be felt

Back and Ribs

Ribs buried, cannot be felt

Deep gutter along back

Broad back and flat

Neck

Marked crest

Very wide and firm

Fold of fat

Pelvis

Angular; skin tight

Very sunken rump

Deep cavity under tail

Back and Ribs

Skin tight over ribs

Very prominent and sharp backbone

Neck

Marked ewe neck

Narrow and slack at base

1 – Poor

Pelvis

Prominent pelvis and croup

Sunken rump but skin supple

Deep cavity under tail

Back and ribs

Ribs easily visible

Prominent backbone with skin sunken on either side

Neck

Ewe neck, narrow and slack at base

2 – Moderate

Pelvis

Rump flat either side of backbone

Croup well defined, some fat

Slight cavity under tail

Back and ribs

Ribes just visible

Backbone covered but spine can be felt

Neck

Narrow but firm

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