Poultry Health and Management - Virginia Tech



Poultry Health and Management

A guide to raising healthy village poultry

Developed by Erin McDonald for COMACO (Community Markets for Conservation) a programme of the Wildlife Conservation Society in Zambia

Illustrations and some text used with permission by the Network for Smallholder Poultry Development

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CONTENTS:

Nutrition… Page 2

Housing… Page 6

Health and disease… Page 8

Nutrition

Supplements to daily scavenging:

Chickens need sources of protein, vitamins, minerals, and energy. In the free-range village system of production, food should be supplemented to make sure that these needs are met. Providing supplements will improve growth, number of eggs laid, and overall health.

1) Sources of protein:

-cereal grains such as maize, rice, or sorghum

-fish and/or meat scraps – must be cooked

-from the household, local butcher, etc

-soybeans and soybean seed coats

-other beans and peas

-groundnut oil cakes

-cassava peels – need to detoxify first by boiling or air-drying

-sunflower seeds

-chopped hard-boiled eggs

-termites (see below for method)

-maggots (see below for method)

2) Sources of vitamins and minerals:

-leafy green vegetables (cabbage, lettuce) - chopped into small pieces

-fish and meat scraps

-chopped hard-boiled eggs

-eggshells or bones ( burned in fire, then crushed)

-crushed snail shells

-salt (especially if not providing fish or meat scraps)

3) Sources of energy:

-potatoes, maize, rice, cassava (detoxify first)

-stale bread softened with water into a mash

-overripe bananas or plantains (mash)

(Method to obtain termites as a supplemental protein source (Figure 1):

-use a large clay pot with a small opening

-fill the pot with animal stool and straw, sprinkle with water

-set the pot upside down with the opening on sandy soil

-wait one day and one night( the pot should be filled with termites

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Figure 1: Growing termites for supplemental protein.

(Method to obtain maggots as a protein source (Figure 2):

-use a large clay pot

-fill the pot with blood, animal organs and animal stool

-mix and then fill 1/3 of pot with water

-cover the top of the pot at night, leave open during the day

-after 7 days, there should be maggots growing in the pot

-gently pour water into the pot so that the maggots float

-remove and wash the maggots before feeding to poultry

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Figure 2. Growing maggots for supplemental protein.

Feeding young chicks (0-6 weeks of age):

It is important for young chicks to have a high quality feed with protein sources such as termites or maggots. Chicks should be fed using “creep feeders” (see Figure 3) that allow the chicks, but not the adults, access to the high quality feed. In addition to protein, chicks should also be supplemented with sources of energy and vitamins/minerals such as maize or sorghum, bone meal, groundnut oil cakes, and salt.

Creep feeders can be built out of bamboo strips arranged in a cone shape (Figure 3). The opening at the top should be large enough to place food and chicks into the feeder. The strips should be approximately 2-3 cm apart at the base of the cone near the ground, or so that the space between strips is just wide enough for only chicks to enter, not adult birds. The high quality feed is then placed inside the feeder.

Figure 3. A creep feeder for chicks.

Feeding adult birds:

Adult birds can be provided with the supplemental food listed above using the “cafeteria system” (Figure 4). At the end of each day, offer sources of protein, vitamins/minerals, and energy – each in one of three separate feed dishes. The birds will know what they need to eat according to what they missed during the day. Feed bowls should be tall enough that the rim of the bowl is at the same height as the birds’ backs – this will reduce the amount of food wasted as the birds eat.

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Figure 4. A cafeteria sytem feeder constructed from a split bamboo pole. The sides of this feeder are not tall enough (do not reach the birds’ backs) and therefore more food will be wasted (tossed aside by the chickens and lost) as the chickens eat.

Water

It is very important that poultry always have a source of cool, clean water. Birds cannot sweat, and a water source is essential for them to cool off on hot days. Birds can easily die of heat stress and dehydration. “Drinkers” are simple to make – all that is needed is a tin can and a plate. Poke two holes in the tin can near the opening. Fill the can with water and place the dish upside down over the top of the can. While pressing the can and plate together gently, flip them over so that the plate is on the ground with the can on top (Figure 5).

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Figure 5. Making a drinker from a tin can and plate.

Housing

General:

Chickens need shelter to protect them from predators and the weather (heavy wind, rain, cold, heat, etc). The shelter can be as simple as a basket placed within the home at night or a chicken house (Figure 6):

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Figure 6. A night basket on the left, and a chicken house on the right.

If constructing a chicken house, be sure that there is adequate ventilation and that it can be easily cleaned on a weekly basis. If using wood, remove the bark first, as parasites often live underneath the bark and will infest the poultry. The floor should be slatted and raised above the ground so that the stool falls through – this will keep the floor of the house clean and make manure collection easier. Use perches for the chickens to sleep on at night – this helps keep the chickens clean and dry and will reduce parasites and other diseases. Be sure that the sticks used for perches are the right size for the chickens’ feet, or they may fall off. If the floor is not slatted, placing a removable mat under the perches to collect feces will make cleaning and manure collection easier. Nests should be built for the hens to lay eggs in – this makes it easier to collect the eggs. Nests should be within the house or in another sheltered area. Even if you do not have a chicken house and are only using night baskets, sheltered nests should be provided in which the chickens can lay their eggs during the day (Figure 7).

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Figure 7. Nests for laying hens.

Housing for chicks:

Chicks are very vulnerable to predation and stresses from the cold, heat, and rain. One easy way to provide them with shelter is using the “basket system.” Baskets can be made of bamboo or thin pieces of wood and should be large enough to hold the mother and all of her chicks, plus a drinker (the chicks need clean, cool water all the time!!). The chicks and their mother should be kept in the basket together for the first week. The chicks need to be with their mother for the first week for protection from the heat and cold. The basket can be moved from place to place throughout the day so that the mother and chicks can scavenge for food. Supplemental food should also be provided as described in the “Feeding young chicks” section.

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After the first week, the mother can be let out of the basket during the day to scavenge. She should be put back into the basket with her chicks at night. At 4-6 weeks of age, start letting the chicks out of the basket to scavenge with their mother for short periods of time during the day. They should go back into the basket at night. After six weeks of age, the chicks can scavenge freely.

The basket system should reduce chick deaths due to predation and disease. Another option is to use a large pen. Remember to provide the chicks with a quality high protein supplement if possible, such as termites or maggots; and clean, cool water.

Housing for adults:

All birds should have some form of shelter during the night to protect them from predators. If there is no chicken house, night baskets (Figure 8) can be used and placed inside a part of the home or another sheltered area where they will have protection from wind, rain and cold.

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Figure 8. A night basket to shelter birds from predators and the weather.

During the day, birds need access to shade (and water) to prevent heat stress in hot temperatures.

By providing supplemental feed in the evening (cafeteria system), the chickens will learn to come back home at night to roost in the chicken house, pen, basket, etc. This is also a good way to observe the birds on a daily basis – observe them whenever you let them in and out of their night shelter. Observing your birds is important in the detection of disease.

Health and disease

It is important to be able to distinguish a sick bird from a healthy bird:

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|Healthy birds |Unhealthy/Sick birds |

|- Alert and on guard |- Tired and lifeless |

|- Bright eyes and comb |- Dull eyes and comb |

|- Walk, run, stand, and scratch continuously |- Sit or lie down |

|- Eat and drink normally |- Eat and drink less |

|- Lay eggs normally |- Lay less or stop laying eggs |

|- Smooth and neat feathers |- Ruffled and loose feathers |

|- Soft compact droppings |- Wet droppings with blood or worms, diarrhea |

|- Breathe quietly |- Cough, sneeze and breathe noisily, or breathe with mouth open |

The best way to prevent disease in poultry is to maintain cleanliness. The drinkers and feeders must be cleaned every day. Chicken houses and nests need to be cleaned once a week, with litter changed once a week if being used. Changing the litter is very important to prevent parasite diseases! Once a year, clean everything with lime. Wash your hands before and after handling birds or their drinkers, feeders, litter, etc.

Providing supplemental feed and clean water is also very important to prevent disease. In addition, be sure that the birds have enough space and are not crowded - crowding can result in injuries, disease and poor growth.

If you identify a sick bird, keep it separated from the others until its health improves. Also, if you are introducing a new bird to your flock, keep it isolated for 2 weeks and watch to be sure it is not sick before allowing it to join the flock. Do not keep poultry together with ducks or geese or near wild birds – ducks, geese and wild birds are a source of infection for many diseases such as Newcastle disease and Avian Influenza.

The following pages describe some common poultry diseases and how they can be prevented and/or treated. Remember that cleanliness and good nutrition are the best ways to prevent disease!!

Newcastle disease (Figure 9): The disease is very common during dry seasons, and is often seen in young chicks, but also in adults. Often between 30% and 80% of the birds die when the disease hits. They may show heavy breathing, loss of appetite, greenish or bloody droppings, and sometimes nervous symptoms, paralysis and sudden death. The disease is a virus, so there is no treatment, but it may be prevented through vaccination of all birds including chicks from two weeks of age. The best prevention without the vaccine is good nutrition, housing, and cleanliness.

[pic]Figure 9. A bird with nervous system signs in advanced Newcastle disease.

Avian influenza (AI): The disease is found naturally in ducks and other waterfowl, and may spread as a highly contagious and potentially dangerous form to chickens. Signs are high flock mortality, blue and swollen comb and wattles, swollen face. May see respiratory signs and diarrhea, as well as a decrease in egg production. Infects through contaminated feed and drinking water from ponds. The disease is a virus, so there is no treatment. Best prevention is strict hygiene and slaughter of sick birds. AI can presently NOT be prevented through vaccination of birds. Culling and burning of all birds in the flock and strict cleaning of chicken houses must be considered after a disease outbreak. Always call a veterinarian if you suspect an AI outbreak. Do not eat infected birds.

Fowl pox (Figure 10): Is often seen in young chicks, but also in adults, and shows as pocks (small lumps) on wattles, comb and face. High body temperature and weakness are followed by sudden death. The disease is common during dry seasons, but may be found all year around. The disease is a virus, so there is no treatment. Vaccine is available and highly effective.

[pic]Figure 10. A bird with fowl pox lumps on its wattles, comb and face.

Fowl cholera (pasteurellosis): May occur any time at all ages. Symptoms are severe diarrhea, respiratory symptoms, loss of appetite, blue combs and wattles. May cause sudden death. Infection is through contaminated feed and drinking water. There is no treatment. Best prevention is strict hygiene and vaccination. Kill and burn affected birds. Vaccine is usually available.

Chronic respiratory disease (Figure 11): Symptoms: Runny or blocked nose and eyes, swollen face, drop in egg production, rare deaths. Prevention: cleanliness and good nutrition.

[pic]Figure 11. A bird with chronic respiratory disease – swollen face, closed eyes, open-mouth breathing.

Marek’s Disease (Figure 12): Usually affects birds older than 16 weeks. Signs include paralysis of wings and/or legs. Prevention is through cleanliness and good nutrition.

[pic]Figure 12. A bird with Marek’s disease – both legs are paralyzed.

Internal parasites (Figure 13): Diseases caused by internal parasites such as worms may occur at any time and at all ages. Symptoms: Sick, tired, head down, ruffled feathers, poor growth, drop in egg production, bloody diarrhea. Can cause death in young chicks. Prevention: regular, careful cleaning and good nutrition. Clean chicken houses once per week, and change litter and nesting material once per week. Avoid crowding of birds. Keep young chicks separate from adults until over 6 weeks of age, as disease may spread from adults to chicks.

[pic][pic]Figure 13. Birds with worms, causing diarrhea.

External parasites (mites, lice, ticks, fleas): Attacks all ages at any time, but occurs more frequently in humid, dirty chicken houses. Affected birds will spend a lot of time pecking and scratching their feathers. Mites, lice, fleas and ticks will cause weight loss and possibly loss of feathers due to the parasites sucking blood and irritating the skin. Young chicks may die from blood loss. Lice can be seen around eyes and nose. Fleas can be seen on the belly. Treatment: Spray or dust with ashes and oil. Ashes and sulphur powder or crushed mothballs may be placed where the hens bathe in the dust. Add a few tobacco leaves mixed with ashes and sand to nests. Clean chicken houses with a kerosene-soaked rag (while the chickens are outside).

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References:

Feltwell, Ray. Small-scale poultry keeping. A guide to free-range poultry

production. Faber and Faber: London, 1980.

Food and Agricultural Organization (FAO). “Keeping Village Poultry: A

technical manual on small-scale poultry production.” Network for

Smallholder Poultry Development.

Reid, W.M. et al. Raising Healthy Poultry. 3rd ed. Christian Veterinary Mission:

Seattle, 1990.

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