A & R Handling



A & R Handling [pic]

Specialist on site servicing and repairs for all rough terrain forklifts

MLA 628 120 LS & LSU series 2 and 3, late 2002 to end of production Oct 2009.

Check hydraulic pump ECU is working, engine at idle about 900 to 980rpm, stall two or three hydraulic services and dead end the steering and hold engage any gear forward or reverse. Do this several times engine should not stall.

If it does it either needs recalibrating (dealer only) or a new pot switch on fuel injection pump and recalibrating.

Or could be faulty hydraulic pump, two types of pumps fitted later type 53 series about late 2007?

Early type 52 series cannot be fixed and you either live with it or fit a new one very expensive pumps and Manitou only.

Next is something that you can not easily check but I should mention anyway, all MLA 628 series 2 and 3 have problems with the output shaft on the hydraulic pump shearing off, there was a modification kit for the flywheel which was a rubber damper. You will only know if it has been done if you remove the pump so not practical when looking at a machine to buy! Mod kit is very expensive and can be fitted to all 120hp MLA’s I don’t think any machines will have been fitted with this mod from the factory/new as the info I have on fitting the kit is dated 2010 which is after they ended production oct 2009.

They will have only been fitted on machines if has had a history of this failure and fitter knows of the mod.

Hydraulic pumps are Manitou only you cannot fit/get anything else. OEM only

Other little things to look for wear in bottom lift and compensation ram pin/bushes. Prone to wear.

Pins and bushes on headstock loose pins in fixed/welded bosses it is normally the tilt link where it connects to the headstock that wears the fixed bosses there are no replaceable bushes in the fixed bosses. All the pivot bushes on the machines are 5mm bigger dia than the pin so that makes the wall thickness of the bush only 2.5mm. Its quite common for machines to wear right through the bottom lift ram bushes or main boom to headstock/carriage pivot bushes.

Centre pivot pins and bearings, bottom pin can wear the bosses in the chassis just like a matbro!

Pins and bearings are expensive so save yourself best part of £400 or more and order a set for a matbro Tr250 powershift they are the same but you will have to order a matbro nut for the top pin as the threads are different!

If bottom pin has worn the chassis bosses then no worries I have some special pins that to fit the worn holes and will tighten it up like new without any machining or special tools required except maybe a torque wrench. I can get them for the top pin too but don’t keep them on the shelf as not normally needed.

Front prop shaft uj’s, caps come loose and spin in the centre yoke they are a crap fit from new and fall in by hand, I believe later machines 2008 and 2009 sorted this problem and they changed the replacement part too? Prop shaft support bearing can often wear out mostly if they point a pressure washer at it regular. The bearings housings are on slotted holes and have to be set dead in the middle or the shaft will knock when on full lock a lot of fitters and dealers don’t double check this when refitting the shaft so it can knock like hell but nothing to worry about easy fix.

Steering ram bearings often drop out they are a press fit to the ram ends there are no circlips etc holding them in, they drop the ram about ¼” and wear the ram ends you can press them back and tack with a welder if moneys tight! Rams can also wear the cylinder bore but you won’t know that unless you strip it, have heard of steering orbital failure because of metal stuck in it from rams a couple of times. New rams are silly money but It is possible to reengineer the rams to improve the piston design so they don’t eat the cylinder bores but you have to do both rams at same time.

Axles are fairly bomb proof, but check for wear on the rear axle pivot bushings they tend to wear the axle stub and collapse the bronze bush in to the grease way which is then a worsing cycle.

The bush on the prop shaft side always is the worst for wear. You can replace the stub on this side by removing the diff pinion shaft and bearings I have done this a few times with the axle in place hardest part is undoing the special pinion nut.

They really do need greasing every 50 hours or less to be trouble free.

If it is worn then you can just leave it and it will just bang about abit on the road over bumps and if lifting a lot of weight but don’t leave it till it wears right through to the pinion shaft!!!

Hour clocks never to be trusted ever!!! Late machine 2008 or 2009 may be a little better but still not to be trusted as common failure, if you are keen on a machine with a failed clock ask if you can take it out and leave it in a nice warm dry place ie a radiator for a week it will often come back to life if only tempory, it is only the display that fails they are still clocking hours even if they have failed so assuming it has not been replaced already it should not be far wrong. I have a machine that has had 4 or 5 hour clocks in over 10,000 hours current one is saying 3500hrs!

On 2003 machines onwards look at the electric fuel lift pump they often pack up, engines will be bad starter in morning and misfire slightly and puff smoke from exhaust at very high revs.

You should hear it buzz with ignition on, pull the electric plug and disconnect the outlet pipe quick release but helps to have a flat bladed screw driver,( two pipes next to each other one that is closest to you and does not have a tee piece further along the line) take it off then touch the electric plug back on and fuel should shoot out of pump, if not fit a new version of the pump is available at about £180 plus vat from perkins. They often buzz but don’t pump fuel.

Also water pumps leaks and thermostat gaskets leak often due to overheating due to blocked rads, Transmission rad is worst for blocking and difficult to clean. They also sometimes have a habit of the cooling fan exploding this is due to the very tight clearance of the fan cowling machines I have had do this I have modified the cowling and jacked engine up a little on its mounts.

Transmission itself is bomb proof more or less the same as a matbro TR250 powershift and uses the same filter so much cheaper from matbro suppliers than Manitou. Maybe check the oil should be nice red if smells burnt and black walk away or knock a few grand off to cover possible repair!

None of the MLA’s are 40k so don’t let anyone tell you different some dealers sold them as 40k! they are 30k machines slightly more if you have the big tyres 19.5 or 500s

Tilt rams can crack the weld on the top of ram just like most Manitou models it’ll either piss out or it won’t!

Check front lower wear pads often the fixings can fall out, normally the one with the locating dowel on it which locates in to the steel spacer plate inside the boom that the pads sit on.

Don’t grease the boom clean it off and run it bone dry. (my advice for most handlers)

Check out the 2 rubber drive couplings on the engine to trans prop they crack up between the bolts.

Battery needs a 633 min or better a 642 @ 1000amp or similar.

Starter motors failure quite common can be uprated to a 4.2kw Iskra starter.

Chassis and boom all good not prone to cracks anywhere. Although sometimes the fuel and hydraulic tanks can work loose if they have taken a beating normally bolts missing or loose so they sag down lower than the rear counter weight. Worst case tank off and weld bracket back on. Rare though.

Oh and exhaust silencers on all models plus any brackets that hold them, they can fall off.

There is a new type silencer that bolts to the back of the cab instead of the engine and eliminates bolts shearing and brackets failing.

Aircon compressor mounting brackets all models bolts shear and bracket cracks common.

Fan belt critical to operation of hydraulic ECU. As is the alternator never fit another make/type there are two types and both are easy to find anyway.

Lower radiator is the transmission cooler and prone to blocking bad, steam clean it real good and blow with air and repeat till clean.

Had a couple of machines crack and throw off fan blades so check these out too

Cab heater controls replaced by new type, old ones used to fail on the heater fan speed knob becoming all loose.

I think that’s about it! Don’t let it put you off I earn my living off these machines so know most of their faults, I could tell you a few of JCB TM300 too but won’t know them all.

They all break I’m afraid

Regards

Andrew

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