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MADEIRAI. HistoryA. Discovery – 14191. Originally colonized by Portuguese merchants and laborers2. Land was burned to make room for agriculture and increase soil fertilityB. Rise of Exports – 1500s-1700s1. Sugar, wheat & vines were initial exports – sugar industry declined after competition from other countries2. Growth of wine exports: British merchants sent wine to their colonies. Lengthy periods on the ship improved the wine’s quality.C. Setbacks – 1800s-1900s1. Powdery mildew and phylloxera destroyed vines2. Prohibition, World Wars and Russian Revolution impacted Madeira’s key export markets3. Consumer tastes changedD. Today1. Regulatory bodies:1979 – Instituto do Vinho da Madeira founded to regulate production2006 – IVBAM superceded this 2. 1986: Portugal becomes part of EU, which introduced other regulations – leading to improvements in qualityII. Location & ClimateA. Location1. Portuguese island – 600km off the coast of Morocco2. Size – 74K ha total, only 500ha planted to vines. Majority near the coast.B. Climate: Mediterranean/sub-Tropical1. Lack of winter dormancy in the warmest sites2. Rainfall: a. North/Central island is cooler and wetter (up to 3,000mm!)b. South island is drierIII. Topography & SoilsA. Topographya. Mountainous – reach up to 1,800m. Temperatures become cooler with altitudeb. Forests cover the center of the island, most vineyards are located near the coastsB. SoilsVolcanic and high in nutrients = fertile, vigorous vinesIV. Grape VarietiesA. History1. Post-phylloxera, replanted with American and hybrid vines that were more resistant to diseases, but didn’t produce quality wines. These vines are NOT permitted in Madeira production!2. EU vine pull schemes reduced the amount of non-vinifera vines3. Varieties are categorized into “recommended” and “authorized” (those not showing as much potential for quality)B. Recommended Varieties1. Tinta NegraMost planted varietyHigh yieldingProduces wines at all sweetness levels2. SercialCharacteristics: high acidityViticulture: late ripening, susceptible to bunch rotWines: used in the driest styles3. VerdelhoSecond most planted varietyCharacteristics: higher acidityViticulture: susceptible to botrytis bunch rot, coulure, downy & powdery mildew4. BoalUmbrella term for number of grape varieties (Boal Cachudo is on Madeira)Viticulture: grows best on warm, low altitude sites on South part of island. Susceptible to droughtWines: typically used in semi-sweet wines5. MalvasiaUmbrella term for number of grape varietiesMalvasia C?ndida – historically used, susceptible to powdery mildewMalvasia de S?o Jorge – most common, high yielding, susceptible to botrytis bunch rot6. TerrantezVery limited plantingsViticulture: susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot – picked soon after reaching minimum abv%V. ViticultureA. Training/Trellising1. Pergola (aka latadas)Allows for air circulation – reduces risk of fungal diseasePermits other crops to be grown on the land underneath2. Cordon trained/VSP trellised (aka espaldeira)B. Pest & Disease Management1. High disease pressure due to warm, humid climate2. Canopy management can help, but fungicide sprays are usually necessaryC. Irrigation1. Rainwater is carried from the center of the island to vineyard areas by levadas (small irrigation channels)2. Irrigation is more required in the south of the islandD. Harvest1. Date – decided by the IVBAM, usually at the end of August/early September2. Hand harvesting dominates due to topography of island3. Minimum potential abv must be 9%, grapes usually picked closer to 11%4. Prices – Tinta Negra worth less than the other five traditional varieties5. Yields – high yields of 150 hL/ha aren’t uncommon, easy to obtain with fertile soils and plenty of water for irrigationVI. WinemakingA. Pre-Fermentation1. Arrival at the winery – grapes checked by IVBAM2. Skin contact – varies, Tinta Negra usually fermented on its skins for sweeter stylesB. FermentationUsually stainless steel with native yeastsC. Fortification1. Sweet styles – fortified earlier, a few days2. Drier styles – fortified later, around a week3. Fortifying spirit – 96% abv, neutral. Quality must be checked by IVBAM4. After fortification, wines will usually contain 17-18% abvD. Post-Fermentation1. Fining and filtering to clarify2. Wines tasted and classified according to style and qualityVII. Winemaking - MaturationA. Estufagem1. Wine is heated in estufas (temp controlled, stainless steel tanks) to 45-50C (max of 55C)Must remain in tank for 3 monthsIVBAM seals and breaks the sealTank usually not filled to the top – permitting some oxidation2. Wine is cooled, filtered and rests for 6-12 months. Cannot be sold until 10/31 of the 2nd year following harvest.3. Characteristics: used to be described as baked/stewed. Process has improved – but still doesn’t produce as high quality as the more gradual canteiro.4. Typically used for 3-5 year old wines from Tinta NegraB. Canteiro1. Slower heating process - wine is kept in old oak vessels in a warm environment (25-40C) that is heated by the sun.IVBAM seals and breaks the sealSome headspace is left to permit oxidationYoung wines often stored in the warmest areas first – and then moved to cooler spaces for further aging2. Evaporation of water during this process causes:Abv to rise to 19-20%Concentration of compounds – aromas, sugars & acidityVA risesBarrels need regular topping off3. Wines cannot be sold until 3 years after the January 1st following harvestC. Further Aging1. Beyond the minimum aging periods for Estufagem and Canteiro, producers may apply to IVBAM for an EU subsidy to offset costs if they agree to age Madeira for an additional five years2. IVBAM seals and unseals. Producer can apply to check the wine and make adjustments during this period – but an IVBAM rep must be present.3. After five years, producer can apply for an additional EU subsidy if they agree to age for an additional five years.VIII. Post- MaturationA. Characteristics of Oxidation1. Color turns to brown2. Aromas – dried fruit (apricots, raisins), caramel, nuts, chocolate. Sometimes a smoky character.B. Blending1. Consistency – most are NV products2. Complexity – wines matured via Canteiro are added to Estufagem wines to give complexityC. Fining & FilteringD. Pre-Bottling Adjustments1. Color – caramel added to increase color (usually in mid-priced to inexpensive)2. RCGM – added to increase sweetness, or blended with drier wines to decrease sweetnessIX. Styles of MadeiraA. SercialExtra dry/dry – citrus peel and nutsB. VerdelhoMedium dry – candied fruits, may be slightly darker than SercialC. BoalMedium sweet – darker color, caramel, chocolate, candied nutsD. Malvasia (aka Malmsey)Sweet – full bodied, brown colored, high acidity balances the sweetness, raisins and caramelE. TerrantezMedium dry/medium sweet – high in sugar, but delicate. Citrus peel, caramel, floralF. Tinta NegraAny sweetness level!X. Other Madeira CategoriesA. Madeira with Indication of Age1. Options: 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50 and “more than 50” years olda. 5 year – predominantly Tinta Negra & matured through estufagemb. 10 years and older – often made with one of the white varieties and matured through canteiroc. 20 years and older – outstanding quality and sell at high prices2. Age is an indication of STYLE rather than a minimum or averageB. Standard BlendsDon’t qualify for age indicators, sold between 2-3 years after harvestC. Rainwater1. Characteristics: light style, medium dry, about 18% abv, maximum 10 years old2. Name: from when casks awaiting shipment were left open outside and the rain diluted the wineD. Frasqueira (aka Garrafeira)1. The flagship of a producer’s range – vintage Madeira that’s been aged in wood for a minimum of 20 years2. Variety and vintage must appear on the label3. High quality: assessed by IVBAM and super premium pricedE. Colheita1. Vintage Madeira that’s been aged in wood for a minimum of 5 years2. Blend or single variety (does not need to appear on label)3. Newer category – started in 2000. Has become a popular, lower cost alternative to FrasqueiraXI. Madeira Industry StructureA. VineyardsHighly fragmented – over 1000 growers, average vineyard holding = 0.3 haB. Winemaking/Maturation1. Extremely consolidated – only 8 producers! Largest 3:Justino’sMadeira Wine Company (own/rent vineyards)Henriques & Henriques (own/rent vineyards)2. Most producers don’t own vineyards need to purchase from growers, often hundreds of them. Many use agents to facilitate this.XII. IVBAM – Regulatory A. In GeneralFounded in 2006 and is responsible for coordinating and supporting the wine (and embroidery) industries in MadeiraB. Duties1. Present at grape reception2. Sealing and unsealing of maturation vessels3. Tasting panel and laboratory check of age indicated & vintage winesXIII. SalesA. In General - 2017 sales = 3.2 million liters1.9 million liters: young corrente Madeira wines from Tinta Negra5 & 10 year old Madeira are most common age indicated categories48,000 liters: Colheita and Frasqueira (more common than 20-50 year olds)B. Markets1. France - 0.85 million liters (about 25% of 2017 sales)2. Domestic/Madeira – 0.50 million liters3. Germany – 0.32 million liters4. UK – 0.31 million liters C. Cooking MadeiraHeated by estufagem process and released after a few monthsMay be modified by the addition of salt and pepperAccounts for about 25% of Madeira total production volume ................
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