Bandsaw (Wood Room) - Invention Studio @ Georgia Tech

 Woodroom Documentation TOC \h \u \z Bandsaw (Wood Room) PAGEREF _afltefnd0lxg \h 3Link to Manufacturer’s Manual: PAGEREF _khi03ry71tx2 \h 33 Sentence Description: PAGEREF _7bglz6xsb3rz \h 3Physical Limitations: PAGEREF _6q0kfay2a5u3 \h 3Materials: PAGEREF _j7kx7zeghom9 \h 3PPE: PAGEREF _r42xx4eycsym \h 4E-Stops and Safety Procedures: PAGEREF _7dirlwg6hx4c \h 4Startup Procedure: PAGEREF _ths5ypdcchgn \h 4Operation: PAGEREF _hgtv4md3jcsj \h 4Recommended Clean-Up: PAGEREF _tbr3bptykjyv \h 4Basic Troubleshooting PAGEREF _8a9oulqvx0pp \h 5Advanced Troubleshooting PAGEREF _whutnb293cn6 \h 5References: PAGEREF _stl854szmpvm \h 5Makita LS1221 Miter Saw PAGEREF _nq3917vmw4na \h 5Link to Manual PAGEREF _lp84pyk3t3uz \h 5Picture of tool in Space PAGEREF _b9qbtj9f75dt \h 53 Sentence Description PAGEREF _22t0pdrx5m2z \h 5Physical Limitations PAGEREF _wtl490otd7kn \h 6Materials PAGEREF _6d3hhscgvpsa \h 8PPE PAGEREF _kmmysct06r7k \h 8E-stops and Safety Procedures PAGEREF _7jl31hvy701z \h 8Project Ideas PAGEREF _4z1fb1f5440i \h 8Startup Procedure PAGEREF _furimidzwbsr \h 8Operation of Equipment PAGEREF _6xz2nmawcoma \h 9Recommended Clean-up PAGEREF _cmueqmeily3z \h 9Basic Troubleshooting PAGEREF _36fopmrxb9sc \h 9References PAGEREF _p3b8o53fbaym \h 10Table Saw PAGEREF _jyhwhvdocw92 \h 10Types of Table Saw Cuts PAGEREF _mnk1ncij7ebn \h 13Oscillating Belt Sander PAGEREF _j3aejweiafsm \h 136” Disk Sander PAGEREF _7eq5k7806rdm \h 131” Vertical Belt Sander PAGEREF _xaaxb6rxe9d9 \h 13Oscillating Spindle Sander PAGEREF _9h2bh6bp6w0u \h 13Planer PAGEREF _u7n9bdp7y090 \h 13Jointer PAGEREF _7vdo3pf1a3hf \h 13Drill Press PAGEREF _1xqtkawopup6 \h 14Wood Lathe PAGEREF _ia486dp3xlne \h 14Lathe Accessories PAGEREF _c77h4javulpa \h 14Table Router PAGEREF _ls4v27e9zl0v \h 14Hand Router PAGEREF _qwm3fr45br2d \h 14Impact Driver PAGEREF _5rtf47e5fhwu \h 14Hammer Drill PAGEREF _tq5kzn6ek1jo \h 14Regular Drill PAGEREF _pdlhdrln264f \h 14Jig Saw PAGEREF _3s72q5l5kh4e \h 14Handheld Belt Sander PAGEREF _bpi58o1wzca3 \h 15Circular Track Saw PAGEREF _yjwotdz7ujmx \h 15Circular Saw PAGEREF _vesernix63rp \h 15Sawzall PAGEREF _p9y5r3q6k4r2 \h 15Orbital Sander PAGEREF _am5arktujxeb \h 15Hand Planer PAGEREF _aomp2r361pyq \h 15Mortiser PAGEREF _np43prxk66pc \h 15Coping Saw PAGEREF _83pyotau5gn0 \h 16Kreg Jig PAGEREF _9szhss8do17v \h 16Pressure Pot PAGEREF _tg2guuuh9ep \h 16Different Types of Drill Bits PAGEREF _er7bjl1nl9sk \h 16Nail Gun PAGEREF _c27cpx5udvgp \h 16Staple Gun PAGEREF _o0bg3v46qoko \h 16Types of Wood PAGEREF _y8orokk1006w \h 17Types of Lumber PAGEREF _pnj2deg1lsqr \h 17Finishing PAGEREF _62c2tpoyz5qg \h 17Chisels PAGEREF _n0e74c7g6iyy \h 17Clamps PAGEREF _92qdk3vh614q \h 17Bandsaw (Wood Room)Author: Constantine VenizelosLink to Manufacturer’s Manual: HYPERLINK "; Sentence Description:The bandsaw is a cutting tool that uses a metal “band” with teeth to cut into the material. This can be used for either straight (with the guide) or curved (without the guide) cuts. The bandsaw is able to cut smaller pieces with more ease than other large cutting power tools such as the table saw where handling the part through the entire cut is necessary.Physical Limitations:Curve is limited by the width of the blade and the kerf is determined by the thickness of the blade.Kerf: 1.15 mmBlade Width: 9.13 mmMaximum Adjustable Height: 14 inBlade Speed: 3100 SFPMMaterials:Due to being in the wood room, the bandsaw can only be used to cut woods or plastics.Woods:PlywoodParticleboardHardwoodsSoftwoodsPlastics:PVCPolycarbonate/LexanAcrylicPPE:Safety glasses and closed toe shoes are required in the wood room and must be worn while operating the bandsaw. If a large amount of dust is produced while cutting, a dust mask is advised to be worn.E-Stops and Safety Procedures:The bandsaw has a magnetic safety key to allow the bandsaw to be started. To stop the bandsaw, use either the red switch on the left of the tool or the foot brake on the bottom of the machine. Using the foot break ensures that the blade stops as well. Do not remove jammed cutoff pieces until the blade has stopped moving. Make sure to tie back hair and loose clothing when using the bandsaw.Startup Procedure:Plug in the bandsaw.Place the yellow magnetic safety key into the key holder.Rotate the safety key to the locked position to prevent it from falling off during operation.Press the green switch to ensure the bandsaw blade moves and is not wobbly.Operation:Place your workpiece on the table.Adjust the bandsaw height using the adjustment wheel on the front of the machine.If the cut needs to be straight, align the cutting mark with the blade using the fence.Lock the fence in place.Turn on the bandsaw and let the blade reach full speed before starting the cut.Make the cut. If the workpiece is too small to comfortably push it through the saw, use a push stick or any scrap wood to push the workpiece through the bandsaw.Turn off the bandsaw by pushing the red button or brake pedal.Remove the workpiece when the blade stops moving.Begin cleaningRecommended Clean-Up:Toss scrap pieces of wood into scrap bin. Sweep or vacuum sawdust off the floor and machine to ensure a clean work surface for the next user.Basic TroubleshootingAdvanced TroubleshootingReferences:Bandsaw. (2018, July 03). Retrieved from , M. (2011, October 31). Band Saw Tool School. Retrieved from Bandsaw, 3HP 1PH 230V. (n.d.). Retrieved from . (2016, November). Powermatic Operating Instructions and Parts Manual 15-inch Woodworking Band Saw Model PM1500 [PDF]. Makita LS1221 Miter Saw Link to Manual Picture of tool in Space Figure 1 - Miter Saw 3 Sentence Description The miter saw is a powerful woodworking tool used to cut long pieces of timber and lumber. Unlike the table saw, it can cut cross-grain. It can also be adjusted to cut at angles up to 45°. Physical Limitations Length of material: As long as piece can comfortably fit on table and still be properly clamped. (Approx. 7’) Maximum cutting capacities (Height x Width): BevelAngleMiter Angle0°45°0°3-7/8” x 6”Or2-1/2” x 8”3-7/8” x 4-1/4”Or2-1/2” x 5-5/8”45°2-3/4” x 5-7/8”Or1-3/4” x 7-7/8”1-3/4” x 5-1/8”Or1-3/4” x 5-1/2” Materials · Hard, soft, and composite woods PPE Safety glasses and close-toed shoes are required in the wood room, where the miter saw is located. A mask is suggested if a large amount of dust is being produced, as repeated inhalation of dust can cause lung damage. E-stops and Safety Procedures · Do not cut pieces that cannot be safely clamped. This means objects that are held in place by hand.· There is no emergency stop on this machine, but when the trigger or lock-off button are released the blade will stop.· There is a plastic shield that covers the blade, but this moves upward to reveal the blade as the blade is lowered.· The blade cannot be activated unless the safety button is depressed alongside the trigger.· When not in use, lock the blade in the lowered position using the locking pin (see figure 2) Figure 2 - Position-locking Pin Project Ideas The Spruce Crafts provides 9 excellent beginner projects that make use of the miter saw: HYPERLINK "; Startup Procedure Turn on the wood room ventilation. Open the vent behind the miter saw (see figure 3) Figure 3 - Ventilation The blade can be activated by pressing the lock-off button and pulling the trigger on the handle (see figure 4) Figure 4 - Start-up procedure Operation of Equipment If desired, adjust the angle of the cut by loosening the grip. While holding the lock lever, turn the whole base until the pointer arrow aligns with the desired angle. Release the lock lever and tighten the grip. See figure 5 for reference. Figure 5 - Changing the cut angleIt is not recommended to change the bevel angle, as this feature can be accomplished by adjusting the cut angle and rotating the work piece. If it is necessary to do so, consult the user manual.Place the workpiece onto the tool bench, pushed flat against the back fence. Without powering the tool, lower the blade and adjust the piece until the blade is aligned with the desired cut location.Secure the workpiece by using the clamp attached to the miter saw. Additional clamps may be used but ensure that they do not block the lowering of the blade.Once positioned and clamped, activate the sawblade. Allow the blade to spin up to maximum speed before lowering it. When cutting, use a smooth motion, making sure not to apply too much pressure to the blade. Keep hands away from the cutting area.Cut all the way through the material, then return the blade to the upright position. Unclamp material and, once finished, lock the saw in the lowered position (see figure 2). Recommended Clean-up Vacuum or sweep up dust produced by the sander. If needed, use compressed air to blow off hard-to-reach spots. Basic Troubleshooting Blade is not spinning1. Make sure the lock-off button is being pressed (see figure 4)2. Ensure the saw is plugged in3. If problem persists, ask a prototyping instructor for help. References Makita Tools. (n.d.). Makita LS1221 Compund Miter Saw Instruction Manual. Retrieved from Makita Tools: Table SawAuthors Sid and Constantine VenizelosName of Machine: SawStop Table SawLink to Manufacturer’s Manual: 3 Sentence Description:The table saw is a woodworking tool with a circular saw blade. It is used to cut straight cuts typically along a guide. The angle of the blade can be adjusted to make angled cuts. By changing the blade, different materials can be cut or different shaped cuts can be made. The blade can also be moved up and down to cut different thicknesses of materials. Physical Limitations:?Maximum Thickness: 3 1/8 in?Blade Kerf: .118 in?Maximum Angle: 45 degreesMaterials:The table saw is designed to cut mostly woods, but various plastics can be cut as well. Woods:?Plywood?Particleboard?Hardwoods?SoftwoodsPlastics:?PVC?Polycarbonate/Lexan?AcrylicPPE:Safety glasses and closed toe shoes are required in the wood room and must be worn while operating the table saw. If a large amount of dust is produced while cutting, a dust mask is advised to be worn. E-Stops and Safety Procedures:Startup Procedure:Operation:Recommended Clean-Up:Project Ideas:Build a chess set with a table saw: Layered diorama on table saw: Making a bowl on the table saw: Making a cutting board: Basic Troubleshooting:When cutting thin strips, the strips might fall between the gap between the blade and the table, so use a sacrificial piece of wood to get rid of the gap and prevent the strips from falling in. The sled also works well for this.When cutting round objects like dowels, brace it between other sacrificial pieces of wood.Use the crosscut sled to cut stock at angles.Before performing any maintenance make sure the blade is at zero angle an retracted fully. To change or replace the blade, first make sure everything is off. Then use the handle on the throat plate to lift it up and place it aside. Loosen the clamping handle on the riving knife to ungrip the fin and lift it up to place it aside. Loosen the screw on the blade and remove the saw blade.Insert the new saw blade and tighten the screw. Make sure the blade spacing is correct by using the yellow spacing gauge and turning the yellow nut to make sure the blade just fits between that and the base. Spin the blade two revolutions to make sure no tooth contacts the brake.To replace the sawstop cartridge, lift the clamping handle so that it is not in the way.Turn the cartridge key 90 degrees to loosen the cartridge. Remove the cartridge.Install the new cartridge aligning it with the correct mounting pin.Insert the key again and turn it to lock the cartridge in place. Advanced Troubleshooting:If the wood sticks when running it through the blade consider using the sled and sliding it through faster. Prying the wood apart as it is pushed though helps stop the wood from gripping the saw.To prevent kickback from thick pieces clamp the workpiece to the sled and pass it through slowly. Also make sure the fence is aligned well because even small angle differences cause kickback.Clean the sawdust out of the table saw by opening the base and vacuuming the dust out of the base. Also, remove the throat plate and use compressed air to blow out any sawdust in there.References:Professional Table Saws for cabinet makers. (n.d.). Retrieved from Types of Table Saw CutsAuthor RobertPicture of Tool in Space: 3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5):The tablesaw can make two basic kinds of cuts: rip cuts and crosscuts. It can also make some advanced cuts, like angled cuts and dado cuts. In any case, proper setup and configuration are critical to operating safely and achieving good cut quality.Materials:The tablesaw can cut wood, plastics, and some composites. This article will mostly cover cuts in wood, but can be adapted to some other materials. Ask a PI before attempting these cuts in other materials.Project Ideas (with links to content):Coffee Table from One Sheet of Plywood notice - this user works with hanging earbuds, which is not good woodshop practice. They also do not use a guard while working with the tablesaw, which we advocate using whenever practical. However, they do make several types of cuts using the table saw, including many angled cuts.Tablesaw box user makes a small box using a large variety of advanced tablesaw techniques. We don’t have many of the jigs and sleds he uses, but many of them are homemade for particular purposes. Our sleds were student-made, you can make your own too!How to cut dados for shelving Procedure: The two main types of cuts are rip cuts and crosscuts. Rip cuts, as indicated in the figures, are along the longest dimension of a board. This is often, but not necessarily, in the direction of the grain. Crosscuts run across the width of a board. Rip CutsRip cuts are the most common type of cut on a tablesaw, and the easiest. To rip a board, slide the fence to an appropriate position, using the built-in ruler or a measuring tape to measure the desired width. With the guard in place, raise the blade until the blade will cut through the board, with 1/4 in of the blade sticking up through the board. Turn on the saw, and push the board through the blade with one edge pressed against the fence, using push sticks as needed for safety. Once the board has been pushed entirely through the blade and into the outfeed area, turn off the saw. CrosscutsCrosscuts are also very common, but much more dangerous than rip cuts. This danger comes from kickback, a phenomenon that occurs when the workpiece binds with the spinning blade, propelling the workpiece towards the user with tremendous speed. This most often occurs when users make crosscuts as shown in the picture, only supported by the fence. This is very dangerous, and is never permitted. INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS: DO NOT ATTEMPTFortunately, preventing kickback on a crosscut is relatively trivial. The easiest way to safely perform a crosscut is to use the Sawstop angled push guard, found on the lower right corner of the Sawstop base. Simply set the guard to the desired angle (usually 90 degrees), slot the long tab into the slots in the table surface, and use it to push the workpiece through the saw blade. During the cut, keep the workpiece in contact with the guard as shown. This keeps the board from rotating and binding with the blade, causing kickback. The other easy way to make a crosscut is with one of our sleds. To use a sled, start by unplugging the saw, removing the red access cover around the blade, and removing the guard by lifting up on the black lever. Replace the guard with the riving knife from the tablesaw drawer. Install a sled by lifting it onto the table and slotting the rails on the bottom of the sled into the slots in the table surface. Lay your board in the sled, with the near edge of the board supported by the near wall of the sled. Turn on the saw and push the sled through the blade. The sled is one of the most precise and clean ways to make a crosscut in a board, cleaner even than using the miter saw. Be careful to not get your fingers too close to the blade during a cut with the sled. Advanced Troubleshooting/MaintenanceAngled cutsAngled cuts can easily be made with the tablesaw by tilting the blade with respect to the table. To do this, turn the crank on the right side of the tablesaw base until the blade is at the desired angle. Use a protractor to confirm the angle, don’t just rely on the gauge printed on the machine. With the blade tilted, you can make rip cuts and crosscuts as before. The smaller of our two sleds is designed for use with angled cuts, so use it if you can. Dado cutsThe tablesaw is also capable of making dado cuts, which are partial-depth slots of varying thicknesses. This can be useful in making slots for shelves, rabbet cuts, etc. To make a dado cut, get help from a PI in installing the dado blade in the tablesaw. Failure to properly install the dado blade and reconfigure the SawStop cartridge can result in serious injury. As you install the dado blade, consult the packaging to determine the appropriate number of spacers and insert blades required to make a slot of your desired width. Using a ruler, set the height of the saw so that it will cut a slot of the appropriate depth. If possible, run a test cut to ensure that the slot cut by the blade is what you’re looking for. As before, the dado blade can be used with rip cuts or crosscuts, supporting the board as usual either with the fence, angled push guard, or sled. The following picture shows the shape of the slot that will be cut by the dado blade. References:None used, all straight from the brain holeOscillating Belt SanderAuthor SidName:Oscillating Bandsaw (JET OES 80-CS Oscillating Horizontal Bandsaw)Link to Manufacturer's Manual: Picture of Tool in Space: 3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5):The oscillating belt sander is a smoothing tool for larger pieces of wood. The belt-driven motion works well for sanding flat pieces of wood. The oscillations allow for better finish and wears out the belt less.Physical Limitations:The thickness of the belt sander is 6 inches while the length is 3.5 feet.The bed size is 32 inch x 7 inchMaterials:Wood, Hard PlasticsPPE:Closed Toe shoesSafety glassesVentilation - to pick up sawdust and any chips that break offFence/Brace to secure the wood.E-Stops and Safety Procedures:Red button on front of machine is the all-purpose stop. Make sure nothing is interfering with the belt or the motors.Make sure the ventilation is on and working.Keep fingers clear of the belt.Make sure the belt is not too worn down, in danger of snapping.Make sure the wood is not so thin that it slips in the gap between the belt and the bed.Keep the wood secure and tightly held by hand.Startup Procedure:1.Make sure wood is held tightly and braced against a fence, ventilation is on, and the wood is clear of the belt.2.Press the green button firmly to turn on the belt.Operation of Equipment:1.Turn on the belt with the green button.2.Brace the piece against the bed and fence. 3.Slowly advance the piece forward until the face touches the belt sander.4.Remember that the sander is not for removing significant material, it is for finishing.5.Do not push the workpiece hard into the sander as it will slip.6.Lightly advance the workpiece into the sander until the desired finish is reached.7.Back the piece away slowly from the belt.8.Turn off the belt.Recommended Clean-Up:1.Make sure the belt is off2.Use the shop vac to clean the sawdust off the bed and belt, and off the floor around.3.Report any worn out belt to the shop manager4.Discard any pieces of wood that were used as spacers/braces.Advanced Troubleshooting:1.If there is a lot of sawdust caught in the belt, use the rubber belt cleaner to remove it. Turn on the belt, and hold the rubber cleaner against the belt firmly where the belt has gotten covered.2.When sanding at an angle, use the angled fence to brace the workpiece for right-left tilts. For up-down tilts use another piece of wood that is cut at the desired angle. A simple example is using a scrap 2x4 and cutting it to the desired angle on the bandsaw.MaintenanceReferences: 6” Disk SanderAuthor Walker PooleName of Machine: 6” Disk Sander Link to Manufacturer’s Manual: Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5): The 6” Disk Sander is a power sander that rapidly rotates a circular piece of sandpaper counterclockwise. It is great for sanding wood and some plastics to a very flat surface. The disk has a radius of 6”, and the machine has a table perpendicular to the disk that helps to support the material during sandingPhysical Limitations:●You shouldn’t sand more than a 6” at a time, as a larger piece will come into contact with the portion of the wheel moving upwards, which can rotate the part undesirably.●Table can tilt between -45o and +45o to create bevel angle for sandingMaterials:●Wood●Some plastics (such as Delrin). 3D printed plastic is not recommendedPPE: Safety glasses and closed-toed shoes are required in the wood room. A mask is recommended as sanding can create a lot of dust.E-Stops and Safety Procedures:There are two buttons for turning the machine on and off respectively. If you want to stop using the machine, press the red off button the side of the machine. In terms of safety, make sure you fingers are not near the sandpaper when sanding. Additionally, it is advised to not use the right side of the disk when sanding, as it will cause the part to be pushed up away from the table, and be hard to control.Startup Procedure:●Make sure the table area is free of loose bits of wood●Open the air exhaust vent behind the sander and ensure the air for the room is on (controlled by the switch directly behind the vent door) Operation of Equipment●Making sure no wood or other things are touching the sandpaper, turn on the sander by pressing the green on button on the side ●Holding your material firmly on the left side of the table as shown below (this makes material much easier to control), press the material into the sander at the desired angle and location to sand down your part○The further away from the center of the disk that your part touches, the fast the paper is moving, so keep that in mind in terms of applied force and how much material is being removed●Here is where the piece should ideally be; keep in mind that you should be holding the wood with both hands while operating the sander ●You can adjust the angle of the table with respect to the disk by altering the tilt angle on the sides of the machine shown here:● ●When you are done sanding, press the off button to stop rotation of the sandpaperRecommended Cleanup:●Vacuum up the area of all dust that occurred from sanding●Please close the vent behind the sander, and if you are the last one in the room, turn off the global ventilation with the red button behind this machine●If you were sanding at a bevel angle, please return the table to it’s default 0o positionBasic Troubleshooting:●If there is a lot of dust being sprayed during sanding○Ensure that the ventilation is both open and turned on●If the part is hard to control and is being pushed around by the rotating paper○Make sure you are holding the part on the left side of the disk so that the force is pushing the wood into the table●If the machine isn’t turning on when you press the power button○Make sure you are pressing it hard as it takes considerable force to actuate○If this still doesn’t work, contact the Wood Room MasterAdvanced TroubleShooting:●If the disk is running too slowly○Might be a problem with the belt slipping, replace the belt●If the disk is spinning properly but sanding isn’t effective○Replace the sandpaper○This is done by removing the table from the tool by loosening both knobs on the left and right sides. Then peel the old sandpaper off, and replace it with a new sheet, found in the cabinets to the right. Ensure that the paper is centered on the disc○After you have done this, replace the table and set it to the default 0o positionReferences:Operating Instructions and Parts Manual Disc, Belt and Combination Disc/Belt Sanders. (2016, December). Retrieved from 1” Vertical Belt SanderAuthor AlexName of MachineKalamazoo 1” Belt Sander, Model 1SMLink to Manual hosts all of their manuals on google drive, and this is their official library.Picture of Tool in Space Figure 1 - The belt sander3 Sentence DescriptionThe 1” vertical belt sander powers a spinning belt of coarse sandpaper to allow for quick sanding of the edges, corners, and small faces of workpieces. There is a small shelf to rest pieces upon, allowing for easy right-angle sanding.Physical LimitationsBelt width: 1”Grit available: P120Materials?Hard, soft, and composite woods?PlasticsPPESafety glasses and close-toed shoes are required in the wood room, where the belt sander is located. A mask is suggested if a large amount of dust is being produced, as repeated inhalation of dust can cause lung damage.E-stops and safety proceduresThere is no emergency stop on the machine. Flip the power switch to the “off” position or unplug the machine to quickly shut it down.Tie back any loose hair before operating any spinning tools, such as the belt sander. Long hair can get caught and cause major ing into contact with the spinning belt may cause minor scrapes but is generally harmless.Only use the portion of the belt that is supported by the metal backplate; applying too much tension to the belt can snap it, resulting in possible injuries and damage to workpieces/equipment.Startup ProcedureTurn on the wood room ventilation. Open the vent behind the belt sander (see figure 2) Figure 2 - VentilationSimply flip the power switch to the “On” position. The belt sander will spin as long as the switch is in this position. Make sure no material is in contact with the belt while it is powering up.Operation of equipmentNote: the belt spins downwards, so workpieces will be forced in this direction during sanding. Keep a tight grip on material.Once the belt is spinning, guide the workpiece by hand left-and-right along the belt. Only use the portion of the belt that is supported by the metal backplate; applying too much tension to the belt can snap it, resulting in possible injuries and damage to workpieces/equipment. The workpiece can be held at an angle to sand corners and edges or held flush against the shelf to sand flat faces.It is recommended to check the progress of the sanding periodically, as over-sanding can mis-shape the workpiece. Once sanding is completed, shut down the sander by throwing the switch to the “Off” position.Recommended cleanupVacuum or sweep up dust produced by the sander. If needed, use compressed air to blow off hard-to-reach spots.Advanced troubleshooting/MaintenanceChanging the belt:1.Unplug the machine before any maintenance2.Loosen the small set screw on the shaft of the belt sander (see figure 3) Figure 3 - Set screw3.Press down on the top of the shaft. This shaft is tensioned by a spring, so no manual tensioning of the belt will be necessary.4.Remove the belt and replace it with a new one from drawer B4.5.Make sure the belt is going over the backplate and through the small notch cut into the resting shelf.6.Spin the belt by hand to ensure it is properly aligned.7.Tighten the set screw.ReferenceKalamazoo Industries. (2015, June 2). 1SM Sander Instructin Manual. Retrieved from Google Drive: Spindle SanderAuthor WalkerLink to Manufacturer’s Manual: 3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5): The oscillating spindle/drum sander is a power sander that rotates as well as moves up and down to remove material from wood. The machine can be fitted with cylindrical sanders of various sizes, and can also be fitted with a belt sander for larger sanding jobs. This functionality and flexibility makes it the great for sanding hard to reach places on a part, or sanding an arc to a specific radius of curvature.Physical Limitations:●Diameter of Spindles does not exceed 2”, and does not go lower than ?”●Should not be used to sand materials thicker than 2”●The table is 20 inches wide, making significantly larger parts hard to control while sanding●The maximum tilt angle of the table is 45oMaterials:●Wood●Some plastics (such as Delrin). Not good for 3D printed partsPPE: Safety glasses and closed-toed shoes are required in the wood room. A mask is recommended as a large amount of dust is created by this toolE-Stops and Safety Procedures:There is an on/off switch on the front of the sander. There is also a yellow plastic key in the switch. The machine will not turn on without the key, and pushing the red off switch in during operation will immediately stop the motion of the sander. If for whatever reason the off switch is unable to be pushed, unplugging the power cord from the wall will stop the machine immediately. Make sure not to put your hands, and especially nothing dangling like jewelry or hair, anywhere near the rotating sander. Startup Procedure:●Clear the machine of sawdust and other contaminants●Plug the power cord into an outlet●Make sure the yellow plastic key is inserted into the power switch●Ensure the table-tilting mechanism is locked down to desired angle, and the spindle or belt is secured down completely●Turn on the power switch (pictured below) on the front of the machine and begin sanding Operation of Equipment●Changing to desired size of spindle or belt○remove the current spindle by removing the knob at the top of the sander, and remove each component of the spindle shown below ○Take the desired sized spindle, and replace it in the same order as above, making sure to tighten the knob counterclockwise. Ensure that you use the correct size spacer ring. All components you will need for this are in the slots in the front of the machine○If you are installing the belt rather than another sized spindle: ○Follow a similar procedure as replacing the spindle, but remove the orange plastic piece in the table to make room for the sander, and install the backstop knob behind the belt if desired●Operating the sander○Set the front of the table to the desired bevel angle by loosening the knob on the right of the sander, adjusting the tilt of the table, and tightening the knob. ○Make sure the spindle or drum is securely tightened to the table with the tob knob being tight○Turn on the sander using the power switch, holding the part with both hands, and pressing firmly to the table slide it into the sanding implement and begin removing material from your part at the desired angle○Be careful not to touch the rotating sander with your hands under any circumstanceRecommended Cleanup:●Please vacuum up the area after using the sander with a shop-vac; there will be a lot of dust around the machine.●Please vacuum underneath the orange plastic cover on the table to make sure sawdust does not get trapped and hinder movement of the machine●Return the tilt of the table to its original, flat position, and put all of the spindle components not in the machine back in the slots on the front●If you found the machine underneath the table, please put it back where it was beforeAdvanced TroubleShooting:●If the sander is not removing material, but is moving correctly○The sandpaper is likely filled with sawdust, it is advised to replace the sandpaper●If the sandpaper is burning the wood○The sandpaper likely has contaminants in it. Replacing the sandpaper should alleviate the issue●If the spindle is not oscillating up and down all the way○There is likely sawdust in the machine under the orange plastic cover that is preventing it from fully moving. Vacuuming out the region should return it to full range of motion References:Oscillating Edge/Belt Spindle Sander Manual. (2003). Retrieved from PlanerAuthor Constantine VenizelosName of Machine: Powermatic 15HH Planer Link to Manufacturer’s Manual: 3 Sentence Description:The planer is used to create a consistent thickness on a wood workpiece. It will cut the wood a specific thickness parallel to the bottom surface of the workpiece. This means that any imperfections on the bottom of the workpiece will be transferred to the top. Use the planer in combination with the joiner to create square parts. Physical Limitations:?Minimum Length: 14 in?Maximum Thickness: 6 in?Depth of Cut: ? in?Maximum Planing Width: 14-7/8 inMaterials:The planer only works on woods. Do not use any metals with the planer. Staples or nails in the wood can also damage the planer. Woods:?Hardwoods?SoftwoodsNote: The planer can only handle side or face grain wood. It cannot work on endgrainPPE:Safety glasses and closed toe shoes are required in the wood room and must be worn while operating the planer.E-Stops and Safety Procedures:To stop the planer, press the red button on the control panel. This will stop the planer at any time. Make sure hands are clear of the planer and do not force wood through. Make sure the wood fits easily through the planer as well. Project Ideas:Startup Procedure:1.Plug in the planer to the wall outlet2. Open the valve on the dust collection3.Ensure that wood is long enough Operation:1.Set the planer to the correct height using the adjustment wheel on the side of the planer. 2.Make sure the wood will easily pass through the front of the planer. 3.Check that the wood can easily rest on the two plastic bars on top of the planer, if not, the wood is too short. 4.Press the green button on the control panel to start the planer. 5.Feed the wood into the planer and the planer will grab the wood and push it along. Do not touch the wood as it is passing through. 6.Once the wood is through to the other side, it can be removed.7.Turn off the planer with the red button on the control panel. Recommended Clean-Up:First unplug the planer. When finished with the planer, blow off the tool with compressed air and sweep or vacuum up sawdust around the planer. Make sure the workspace is clean for the next user.Basic Troubleshooting:Advanced Troubleshooting:References:JointerAuthor MateoJointer54HH JOINTER, 1HP 1PH 115/230VLink to Manufacturer's Manual Picture of Tool in Space 3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5)The jointer is a tool used to create flat edges on a piece of wood. It does this by shaving off a layer of wood as you pass the wood over a spinning blade.Physical LimitationsThe manual says that the minimum dimensions are 6 inches wide and .5 inches thick.MaterialsThis tool is build only for wood.PPEAlways wear glasses for wood chips and splinters and you use the yellow paddles when you risk putting your hands remotely close to the blades of the machine.E-Stops and Safety ProceduresDo not use this machine without being trained by a prototyping instructor. The red button on the machine will stop it. If you risk putting your hands anywhere near the blades, then use the provided yellow paddles.Project Ideas (with links to content)This video explains in depth how wood is prepared using a jointer [1].Startup ProcedureMake sure the machine is plugged in and your depth of cut is set then press the green button.Operation of EquipmentMake sure the machine is plugged in and ready to go. Setup your wood with the side you want to route on the horizontal metal piece. Adjust the height of each pass. The less you take of with each pass, the easier and better the passes will be. Turn on the machine with the green button and slide your wood through. If the piece of wood you are using is too small to hold with your hands, then use the yellow paddles that are provided. For optimal usage, try to keep the wood flush with the surface right past the blade of the jointer. This will allow you to have a consistently flat surface. It is very easy to make slanted sides that are no longer perpendicular with the jointer, so just be aware of that as you make passes. Consider flipping which side you pass first through the jointer to even out the likelihood of slanted sides. Recommended Clean-UpAlways vacuum the chips in between passes of your wood and after you are done working. This will also make it easier for you to have a clean edge.Basic TroubleshootingIf your wood is not cutting cleanly, make sure you don’t have any nails and other things that would interfere with the machine. Make sure there is no buildup of sawdust on or inside the machine.Advanced Troubleshooting/MaintenanceIf the knife inserts are nicked, then they can be rotated for a fresh edge. The manual is linked above for better assessment of issues and maintenance such as oiling and repairs.References[1] How To Straighten Wood - Felder Format 4 Planer and Jointer. (2018, March 09). Retrieved from Press (Wood Room)Author Constantine VenizelosName of Machine: Drill Press (Baileigh DP1000VS) Link to Manufacturer’s Manual: Sentence Description:The drill press is used for cutting holes into workpiece. The type of hole can be changed by changing the bit used with the drill press. The drill press exchanges the ease of use and portability of a hand drill with accuracy, precision, and less effort to bore the hole. Physical Limitations:Limited by chuck size, workpiece size, and hole depth.Variable SpeedSpindle Travel 5.3”Materials:Due to being in the wood room, the drill press can only be used to bore into woods or plastics. Woods:PlywoodParticleboardHardwoodSoftwoodPlastics:PVCPolycarbonate/LexanAcrylicTake metals to the drill press in the Metal ShopPPE:Safety glasses and closed toe shoes are required in the wood room and must be worn while operating the drill press. Do not wear gloves and tie back hair when operating this toolE-Stops and Safety Procedures:The drill press can be stopped at any time by pressing the red switch towards the top of the tool or by pressing the E-Stop (big red button). Drilling pressure can be released by releasing the feed lever. Before drilling make sure the workpiece is well fastened and will not shift. Holding the part may result in injury if the drill bit catches while boring. Remember that workpieces may become hot after extensive drilling and gloves should be worn to handle them. Project Ideas:Startup Procedure:Make sure the drill press is plugged in.Make sure the red E-Stop is not depressed. If so, rotate the E-Stop until it releases.Press the clear-ish green button to turn on the drill press. It should glow when it is turned on. Operation:Place the bit into the chuck and rotate the chuck to tighten onto the bit. The drill press has a keyless chuck, just make sure the bit is tight enough for drilling.Set the drill depth by twisting the nob in front of the drill press spindle. The marker with the red line will display the cut depth.Fix the workpiece to the drill press using the vice. If the workpiece does not fit under the drill press, rotate the lever on the front right of the work table to raise or lower the table. Make sure to lock it again with the lever on the front left of the work table. Set the drill press speed by rotating the black nob on the top row of buttons. Faster speeds can be used for softer materials.Set the black switch on the bottom row of buttons to the drill bit for drilling and the tap for tapping. Turn on the spindle by pressing the solid green button on the left side of the control panel. Rotate the feed lever on the right to move the spindle up and down to perform the cut.Turn off the spindle by pressing the solid red button on the top row of the buttons. Recommended Clean-Up:After holes have been cut, remove the cutting tool and return it to its spot. Blow off the drill press with compressed air and vacuum or sweep sawdust from around the drill press. If lubrication is used during the cut, wipe any excess lubrication off the drill press. Make sure it is clean for the next user.Basic TroubleshootingDrill Bit “Wobbles”This happens if the drill bit is chucked in crooked. Remove the drill bitCarefully reinsert the bit, taking care to keep it perfectly upright Drill Press won’t StartEnsure that the e-stop is not pressed.Ensure that the Drill Press is plugged inEnsure the that the power switch on the back of the press is OnConsult a PI or Wood Room Master is problem persists Advanced TroubleshootingReferences:Baileigh Drill Press Variable Speed DP-1000VS. (n.d.). Retrieved from . (2018, July 05). Retrieved from LatheAuthor Michael BurtonTool Name Wood Lathe (Powermatic 3520B)Picture of Tool in Space Figure 1Link to the Manufacturer’s Manual Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5)A wood lathe rotates a part as a variety of chisels, drills, and sanding processes are applied to produce round, axially symmetric features. Great for making anything from pens to bowls! Figure 2Physical LimitationsSpindle Speed: 50-3200 rpmDistance Between Centers: 34-?”Maximum Stock Radius: 7”MaterialsIn general, the wood lathe is used for working hardwood or softwood. Hardwoods tend to hold tighter tolerances and allow for thinner features; while softwoods are more prone to fraying, but can be more forgiving if the chisel catches. For beginners, learning to turn with softwoods such as pine is a cost effective way to hone technique, as fraying highlights imperfections in chisel angle. Some other materials may be used, but come along with special considerations. Be sure to research and know your material and how it turns before attempting a project.PPERequired: Safety glasses, closed toed shoes, hair tied back and no dangling objects on body (hoodie strings, lanyards, necklaces, watches, ect.)Recommended: Face shield, respirator (when sanding)E‐Stops and Safety ProceduresWhen depressed, the e-stop shuts off the spindle motor. It’s important to note that the spindle and chuck will continue to rotate off inertia after triggering the e-stop. To turn the motor back on after using the e-stop, pull out while rotating counter clockwise.There are several dangerous failure modes when operating a lathe. Chisels getting caught on the workpiece can lead to serious injury. Exercise conservative cut depths, and be sure to sharpen any steel tools or check carbide insert quality before use.Pieces with glue-ups or cracks can cause a part to explode under stress. To avoid this, do not place excessive stress on a workpiece, always allow for proper curing time on glue-ups, and do not use heavily cracked stock.When using a chuck, a workpiece may come loose and fly out. To prevent this, stop the lathe immediately if the workpiece moves at all in the chuck. Stand to the left of the workpiece when possible, as it will most often fly to the right.To avoid getting caught in the lathe, never approach the machine with loose or dangling items, such as necklaces or loose long hair. Nothing but the tooling currently in use should ever be able to contact the workpiece.For comprehensive safety procedures please see Wood Lathe Safety Rules (Valley Woodworkers of West Virginia, 2016).Project Ideas (with links to content)●Pen turning is a great way to get started on the wood lathe ●Chess pieces are a good next step, allowing for experimentation with more complex and ornamental features ●Turning a bowl is one of the more challenging and rewarding projects to attempt, especially one which requires a glue up Procedures1.Inspect the stock to be turned for any irregularities such as knots, cracks, or barka.Remove any loose knots before turning. Stable knots are workable, but do present a challenge due to change in density compared to the wood around them. Even if a knot appears stable, CA stabilization (see Advanced Troubleshooting) is a good ideab.Small cracks can be CA stabilized, but ones large enough to affect the integrity of the stock are highly dangerous. If a crack is large enough, it can cause a part to explode while turning, sending projectiles across the shopc.Loose bark should always be removed prior to turning. Secure bark may be kept as a live edge, but exercise caution and slowly ramp up to turning speed.2.Select an appropriate chuck or faceplate for the stock. Faceplates will usually hold better than chucks, but a longer stock piece is required, as the screwed in half will most likely be sacrificeda.If using a faceplate, screw it onto the stock so that plate is centered on the stockb.If using a chuck, make sure the jaws are able to securely clamp the part before installing the chuck3.If changing the chuck or faceplate on the lathe, push down the button to lock the spindle in place while rotating the spindle manually until it locks. Slide the cover down over the button to hold it locked Figure 34.Unscrew the current chuck/ faceplate and screw on the one to be used for the current job5.Lift the lock button cover and rotate the spindle to unlock it6.If using a chuck, secure stock within chuck jaws. Be sure to remove the pins or chuck key used to tighten the jaws immediately as your hands move away from the chuck7.In the majority of jobs, using the tailstock to help stabilize the stock is a good idea.a.Insert the centerpoint into the tailstockb.Rotate the tailstock extension wheel until the centerpoint locks into the tailstockc.Releasing the tailstock lock lever to its middle, unlocked, position, edge the centerpoint up to the stockd.Push the tailstock lever to the left or right until it lockse.Ensuring that the stock is balanced on its turning axis, rotate the extension wheel until the centerpoint has partially gouged into the stock. There’s no need to overdo it with this step, just give enough pressure that the centerpoint will hold8.On the tool rest, move the locking arm to its center, unlocked position. Loosen the rest hight lock9.Move the tool rest to desired position and lock. For most standard exterior turning, a good rule of thumb is slightly below the axis of rotation, and just barely offset from the furthest out point of stock from the axis of rotation. Making adjustments to the tool rest position based on the feel of turning is not uncommon10.Rotate the spindle by hand checking that at no point in a rotation does the stock collide with anything11.Turn the speed dial all the way to the left12.Ensure that no obstructions are in the path of the stock’s rotation13.Check that the switch is in its upright position for forward turning14.Pull out on the e-stop while twisting left15.Slowly rotate the speed dial right, checking that the direction of rotation is correct. Ramp up the speed slowly to the desired rpm, while making sure that the lathe is not shaking or vibrating due to an off balance part Operation of EquipmentOperating a wood lathe effectively requires experience and a feel for each chisel and the material being worked. In person instruction is the best way to gain competency on the wood lathe. Workflow varies heavily from project to project. These explanations are just a few of the possible operations which may be part of a project. Recommended Clean‐UpIf using a non-standard chuck, remove the chuck or face plate from the lathe. Dust off the lathe, then sweep all the chips and dust produced into the vacuum shute adjacent to the lathe. If the lathe has been set to high speed, change it back to low speed.Basic TroubleshootingChange Speed Range- With the e-stop pushed in, open the belt panel. Next unlock the motor and raise it, then lock it back in place. Move the belt to the desired gearing. Unlock and lower the motor, then lock and close the panel. Figure 4Advanced TroubleshootingCA Stabilization- Drip 1-3 drops of CA glue into the crack and spray with an activator. Wait 3-5 min and repeat. If there’s no CA accelerator, wait 1-15 min between applications. Be sure to give 15 min after the last application before resuming turning. Only use CA stabilization for small cracks that do not run completely through the part.ReferencesBenjenky. (2017, October 10). Segmented Bowl. Retrieved from . (2014). Operating Instructions and Parts Manual Woodturning Lathe Model 3520B. Retrieved from . (2017, November 08). How to Turn a Wooden Pen on a Lathe. Retrieved from . (2017, October 24). Wooden Chess Rook Piece for the Coffee Table. Retrieved from Woodworkers of West Virginia. (2016, January 5). Wood Lathe Safety Rules. Retrieved from AccessoriesNO AUTHORTable RouterAuthor ReedTool NameTable Router●Table: BOSCH RA1181●Router: BOSCH 1617Link to Manufacturer’s ManualSee attached (x2)Picture of Tool 3 Sentence Description A table router is a stationary, mounted hand router. This tool can add decorative or functional shaping to the edges of Physical LimitationsMaterialsPPE●Safety Glasses●Closed-toe shoes●Recommended: Dust mask●Optional: Hearing protectionE-Stops and Safety ProceduresProject IdeasStartup ProcedureOperation of EquipmentRecommended Clean-Up●Vacuum the sawdust from the cutting operation.●Ensure the twin wrenches for changing the bit are returned to the pocket on the right Basic TroubleshootingAdvanced Troubleshooting/Maintenance ReferencesHand RouterAuthor SidName of Machine : Makita RT0701CX7 1-1/4 HP Compact Router KitLink to Manufacturer's Manual: (See “Resources and Media” tab for PDF manuals)Picture of Tool in Space: 3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5):The Hand router is a great tool for hollowing out sections of a wood workpiece and creating detailed edges on corners of a workpiece. A plunge router has the advantage that it can start its cut over any portion of workpiece, so it adds a layer of detail and accuracy when cutting slots. There are an assortment of bits that support different finishes and purposes.Physical Limitations:The maximum depth of cut is 1-? inches.The collet size is ? inch, so it can only support bits that fit in that.The power cord is 8 ft. Must stay within that distance of outletMaterials:Wood, Hard PlasticsPPE:Safety GlassesClosed Toe ShoesClampsE-Stops and Safety Procedures:The rocker switch on the front of the machine is the all-purpose Stop. The 0 side is off, the 1 side is on. Only handle the router by the insulated grip.Make sure the bit is secured in the collet firmlyTake off any loose clothing or jewelry and tie long hair backMake sure the power cord is out of the wayProject Ideas (with links to content):Making a plaque with a hand router: Planing a tabletop with a router: Finish a slab with a router: Startup Procedure:Inserting a bit:? Do not tighten the collet nut without inserting a bit, or the collet cone will break. ? Use only the wrenches provided with the tool. Insert the bit all the way into the collet cone and tighten the collet nut securely with the two wrenches or by pressing the shaft lock and using the provided wrench. To remove the bit, follow the installation procedure in reverse.Preparation:Clamp the workpiece to the table.If cutting all the way through the workpiece, add a sacrificial piece under the workpiece to prop it up, so as not to damage the table underneath.Move the stopper nut up or down to set a maximum cut depth. Slide the router body into the sleeve from the top and twist until it clicks in placeIf using any guides or braces to assist the cut, make sure those are attached and clamped on.Operation of Equipment:1.Make sure all the startup procedures are complete2.Set the tool base on the workpiece to be cut without the bit making any contact. 3.Then turn the tool on and wait until the bit attains full speed. 4.Push the router down by the insulated handles to engage the bit with the wood.5.Move the tool forward over the workpiece surface, keeping the tool base flush and advancing smoothly until the cutting is complete. 6.Moving too quickly may damage the bit, Moving too slowly may burn the wood. The Cutting speed depends on the wood.7.Change the cut speed with the red dial above the power switch.8.Manipulate the feed rate by manually moving it slower across the workpiece.9.When doing edge cutting, the workpiece surface should be on the left side of the bit in the feed direction. Recommended Clean-Up:1.Make sure the router is off. 2.Unplug the router3.Remove the bit by following the instruction in Startup in reverse order.4.Put the bit and router back in their respective locations5.Clean up sawdust with shop vac.Basic Troubleshooting:Use a laser cut design to make guide templates for complex shapes.If the router is not cutting, try a smaller bit first, then work up to a larger bitIf edging a wood piece, use the edge of the router base as a guide to keep the edge straight.Advanced Troubleshooting:When carving a pocket or a slot, plunge the router bit slowly and move it slowly through the work piece because it has a higher tendency to torque the wood out of the clamps.When using the router, keep the router below eye level to get better control over its path.If the edge of the workpiece is flat, it may be more accurate to use a table router as it has a fence that guides the edge better.Thicker router bit should be operated at lower speeds.Use lower speeds for harder woods. MaintenanceReferences: Impact DriverNO AUTHORHammer DrillAuthor RobertName of MachineMakita XPH07 Cordless Hammer Driver DrillLink to Manufacturer’s Manual of Tool in Space 3 Sentence ELI5The Makita XPH07 is an all-purpose cordless drill and driver with hammer drill functionality. It is a powerful tool for drilling all types of materials, including wood, plastic, metal, and even concrete. Choose it for any multi-purpose drilling or screwdriving tasks, especially where more power than normal is required.Physical LimitationsCapacities:Drilling into concrete 16 mm (5/8") Drilling into steel 13 mm (1/2") Drilling into wood 76 mm (3") Fastening wood screw 10 mm x 90 mm (3/8" x 3-1/2") Fastening machine screw 6 mm (1/4")No load speed (RPM)High (2) 0 - 2,100 /minLow (1) 0 - 550 /min Blows per minuteHigh (2) 0 - 31,500 /min Low (1) 0 - 8,250 /min MaterialsSoftwood(pine, poplar, fir, dimensional lumber, plywood, etc)Hardwood(walnut, cedar, oak, hickory, etc)Plastics(PVC, acrylic, Delrin, etc)Note that the tool can cut the following materials, but these materials can not be cut in the wood room. Please ask a PI to temporarily take the tool to a different area if you need to cut the following materials. Please also note that specialty drill bits or equipment may be necessary to work in these materials, ask a PI for help.AluminumMild steelStainless steelConcretePPEAs with any wood shop tool, safety glasses and closed-toe shoes are required. Ear protection (earplugs or ear muffs) are also recommended when drilling concrete or metal. Wear a respirator or mask if the tool will create fine powders during cutting. Depending on the work, consider wearing heavy gloves, long pants, long-sleeve shirts, and other protective clothing.E-Stops and Safety ProceduresThe Makita Hammer Drill has no E-Stop. Release the trigger to stop the drill. To “safe” the drill, slide the direction selector switch to the middle position. Please “safe” the drill whenever you return the drill to the holder, and whenever you hand it to another person.Whenever possible, firmly clamp the workpiece to a bench or table, or otherwise steady and secure it firmly. When drilling concrete or metal, attach the side handle and grip the drill firmly as drilling these materials produces tremendous torque on the operator. Start-up ProcedureInstall a battery by sliding it into the bottom of the handle until it clicks. Install a drill or driver bit by rotating the black sleeve at the tip of the drill to open or close the drill chuck. Rotating the sleeve counterclockwise opens the chuck. After ensuring that the bit is centered in the chuck, firmly rotate the sleeve clockwise to tighten the chuck.Select the rotation direction using the selector switch at the top of the grip, near your thumb. Press it from the right side to the left to turn clockwise, and vise versa. Select an appropriate speed using the gear selector switch at the top of the drill. Use low speed (1) for driving screws or drilling particularly tough materials. Use high speed (2) for general-purpose drilling. Select the appropriate drilling mode. Rotate the ring just ahead of the metal section of the drill to change drilling modes. Set it to the drill icon for general purpose drilling. Set it to the screw icon to drive fasteners. Set it to the hammer icon for hammer drilling in concrete.If you are using the hammer drill to drive fasteners, you can set a torque limit to help prevent overtightening of the fastener. Rotate the numbered ring to set the torque limit, aligning a higher number with the screw icon to use a higher torque. We advocate starting with a fastener in a test piece to determine the appropriate torque, or starting with a low setting and gradually working up until the fastener is set satisfactorily. If you are using the hammer drill to drill concrete, steel, or other tough materials, install the side grip. Pass the clamp on the handle around the metal section of the drill, then tighten the grip by turning clockwise. It can be installed on the left or right side for ambidextrous usage.If you want to drill holes to a particular depth, install the depth stop to the side handle. Loosen the adjustment screw and slide the depth stop until it is flush with the surface of the material when the drill is at the desired depth. Tighten the adjustment screw to secure the depth stop.Operation of EquipmentGrip the drill firmly and place the tip of the drill bit or fastener in the desired location. After confirming the correct rotation direction (clockwise for drilling). Pull the trigger to rotate the drill, pulling farther for a higher speed. When drilling metal, use a cutting fluid like TAP Magic or 3-in-1 to lubricate and cool the drill bit.Basic TroubleshootingWhen driving fasteners, especially into wood or plastic, use a drill bit to “pre-drill” a hole into the material, to the full depth of the fastener. Select a drill that is the same diameter of the center shaft section (minor diameter) of the screw. When driving flat-head screws, also use a countersink bit before driving the screw to make a pocket for the screw head in the material. Doing so will help prevent the material from splitting or cracking.When drilling metal, use a center punch to make an indentation where the hole is desired before drilling the hole. This helps keep the drill bit from “walking” away from the desired location.If a drill bit gets stuck in a hole, reverse the rotation direction and back the drill out. If you notice decreased drill performance, try using another battery. If the trouble persists, or if you have any other questions, ask a PI.References Details - XPH07M. (n.d.). Retrieved July 8, 2018, from DrillAuthor Constantine VenizelosName of Machine: Handheld DrillLink to Manufacturer’s Manual: 3 Sentence Description:The handheld drill is a tool that can attach a cutting bit or driving attachment. Typically, holes are created when a twist drill bit is held in the chuck. The chuck can also hold screw driver bits to make tightening screws easier than a manual screwdriver. This power tool is incredibly useful due to its versatility and portability. Physical Limitations:?Max Torque: 530 in/lbs?Max Speed: 1,550 rpm?Maximum Use Time: ?Materials:Depending on the type of cutting bit, materials ranging from woods, plastics, to metals can be cut. In the wood room, make sure that only woods or plastics are cut and in the metal room, only metals or plastics are cut. Typical Materials:?Aluminum?Steel?Plywood?Hardwood?Softwood?Particleboard?AcrylicPPE:Safety glasses and closed toe shoes are required in the wood room and metal room and must be worn while operating the handheld drill.E-Stops and Safety Procedures:Startup Procedure:Operation:Basic TroubleshootingReferences:Professional Table Saws for cabinet makers. (n.d.). Retrieved from Jig SawAuthor MateoJig SawMakita XVJ03Z 18V LXT? Lithium?Ion Cordless Jig SawLink to Manufacturer's ManualManual: : Picture of Tool in Space 3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5)A Jig Saw moves the blade up and down at a very fast rate. It is very effective for cutting the inside of wood or akward small shapes when most other tools are too big to do the same. [1]Physical LimitationsSome shapes are too small to use the Jig Saw on, so depending on the thickness of the wood you may be able to use the laser cutters or a scroll saw or coping saw.MaterialsThe Jig Saw in the wood room is mainly for wood, however, it could work on acrylic and pvc. It will work with metal. Do not work on metal in the wood room because of the risk of a spark causing a flame. Additionally, different blades serve different purposes on the Jig Saw. In the wood room it is equipped to cut wood.PPEWear safety glasses. Gloves could be advised if you are cutting a lot of wood or cutting wood that may splinter and hurt you. Gloves will also dampen the vibration of the machine.E-Stops and Safety ProceduresRemove your finger from the trigger. Remove the battery.Project Ideas (with links to content)Wooden Jig Saw Puzzle [2]Startup ProcedureMake sure the blade is not bent or broken and secured in the Jig Saw. Get a battery from the battery charging station in the room and slide the battery into the slot in the end of the Jig Saw.Operation of EquipmentClamp the wood or other material down to a workbench. Place the Jig Saw with the base on the wood without the blade touching the material. Get a comfortable hand position and pull the trigger till the blade oscillates at a high speed. Now move the blade forward until you start to cut through wood. If you finish a cut and the blade is sandwiched between wood, then without slowing down the blade track back along your cut to remove the blade. Remove your hand from the trigger.Recommended Clean-UpVacuum and sweep up any dust or particles. Collect any smaller wood chips and pieces that you may have cut out and place them in a garbage can or scrap pile.Basic TroubleshootingIf the machine or wood is not cutting effectively or vibrating a lot, then stop and consider if you have appropriately clamped the wood. If the blades are dull or bent or otherwise out of shape, then consult an invention studio staff member for help replacing it. [3]References[1] “Jigsaw (Power Tool).” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 1 July 2018, en.wiki/Jigsaw_(power_tool).[2] Toolmonger, and Instructables. “How-To: Make a Wood Jigsaw Puzzle.” , Instructables, 8 Nov. 2017, id/How-To-Make-A-Wood-Jigsaw-Puzzle/.[3] Truini, Joesph. “6 Tips to Get the Most From Your Jigsaw.” Popular Mechanics, Popular Mechanics, 14 Nov. 2017, home/tools/reviews/g1334/6-tips-to-get-the-most-from-your-jigsaw/.Handheld Belt SanderAuthor CollinTool NameMakita’s 4" x 24" Belt SanderLink to Manufacturer’s Manual of Tool Image Source: Makita3 Sentence Description The Makita Belt Sander is a corded handheld belt sander. The belt sander is useful for sanding large, flat surfaces.Physical Limitations [1]●Belt Width: 4 in. (100 mm)●Belt Speed: 1,640 ft. (500 m) /min.●Length of cord: 15 ft. (4.57 m)MaterialsAcceptable Materials:●Lumber●PlywoodUnacceptable Materials:●Metal●Plastics●CeramicsPPESafety glasses should always be used when operating the belt sander, and closed-toe shoes should always be worn in the wood room. A dust mask or respirator should be used as appropriate.E-Stops and Safety Procedures [1]●Hold tool by insulated gripping surfaces when performing an operation where the cutting tool may contact hidden wiring or its own cord. Contact with a “live” wire will make exposed metal parts of the tool “live” and shock the operator.●Hold the tool firmly with both hands. ●Make sure the belt is not in contact with the workpiece before the switch is turned on. ●This tool is not waterproof, so do not use water on the workpiece surface.Startup Procedure [1]Plug in the belt sander and clamp the workpiece down.Operation of Equipment [1]●Hold the tool firmly with both hands above the work material. Turn the tool on and wait until it attains full speed.○To start the tool, simply pull the trigger. ○For continuous operation, pull the trigger and then push in the lock button. ○Release the trigger to stop. ○To stop the tool from the locked position, pull the trigger fully, then release it.●Gently place the tool on the workpiece surface. Keep the belt flush with the workpiece at all times and move the tool back and forth. ●Never force the tool. The weight of the tool applies adequate pressure. ○Excessive pressure may cause stalling, overheating of the motor, burning of the workpiece and possible kickback.Recommended Clean-Up [1]●Vacuum any sawdust generated by the sanding.●When the dust bag is about half full, remove the dust bag from the tool and pull the fastener out. Empty the dust bag of its contents.●Return the belt sander to its place in the cabinet.Advanced Troubleshooting/Maintenance Adjusting belt tracking [1]While the belt is running, use the adjusting knob to center the belt tracking. Failure to do so can result in frayed belt edges and wear on the sander frame. Image Source: Instruction Manual [1]Replacing carbon brushes [1]Remove and check the carbon brushes regularly. Replace when they wear down to the limit mark. Keep the carbon brushes clean and free to slip in the holders. Both carbon brushes should be replaced at the same time. Use only identical carbon brushes.Use a screwdriver to remove the brush holder caps. Take out the worn carbon brushes, insert the new ones and secure the brush holder caps.References[1] Makita Belt Sander. Belt Sander Instruction Manual. [online]. Available at: [Accessed 7 Jul. 2018][2] Makita Belt Sander. Parts Breakdown. [online]. Available at: [Accessed 7 Jul. 2018]Circular Track SawAuthor ReedTool NameXPS01Z Circular Track SawLink to Manufacturer’s Manual of Tool 3 Sentence Description The circular track saw is combination of a circular hand saw and a linear track. Combining the two allows for perfectly straight and controlled cuts. This is particularly helpful for larger objects that would be cumbersome or unsafe to feed through the bandsaw or table saw.Physical Limitations●Blade Diameter: 6.5in [1]●Voltage: 18V (x2), 32V [1]●Max Cutting Length: 55in ●Max Cutting Depth: 2in [1]●Kerf: 0.0625inMaterialsAcceptable materials includeAny lumber or plywoodRigid plasticsUnacceptable Materials●Metals●CeramicsPPE●Safety Glasses●Closed-toe shoes●Optional: Dust mask●Optional: Hearing protectionE-Stops and Safety ProceduresSafety Trigger: Like many hand power tools, the track saw is equipped with a safety trigger. This trigger must be pressed for the blade to spin or to plunge down. To use the saw, first press the safety trigger and then squeeze the primary trigger and proceed with the cut. Depth Limiter: The depth of cut can also be limited for safety. To select the proper depth, first put the saw by the end of the material. Loosen the depth limiter. Bring the saw down until it just passes the material. Lock the depth limiter at that depth. Startup ProcedureSelect two batteries from the charging station. Plug them both into the slots on the saw. Set the cut depth so that the blade just passes through the material.Operation of EquipmentMeasure and mark the cut line on the material. Use a speed square to ensure that the track is square with the material. Clamp the material and the track to the worksurface. Place the saw into the groove on the track. Holding the safety down, squeeze the trigger and cut through the material in a smooth controlled motion. The track saw can also make bevel cuts. Here is a link to an overview of the tool that includes how to make bevel cuts.Recommended Clean-Up●Vacuum the sawdust from the cutting. ●Throw away excess material. Larger pieces of excess can be donated to the scrap pile. ●Remove each battery and replace them on the charger station. ●Return the track and the saw to their locations.Basic TroubleshootingBlade won’t start:Ensure that the safety trigger is fully pressed down. Ensure that there are two batteries in the saw and that they have charge. If problem persists consult a PI.Didn’t cut through material:Ensure that the blade depth is set appropriately for the material’s thickness.Hard to cut/blade smoking/charing side of material:The blade is dull. Consult a PI for a replacement blade.Advanced Troubleshooting/Maintenance Changing the Blade:Remove the batteries for safety. To remove the blade, push in the safety trigger and plunge the blade partially down. With the blade down, twist the spring-loaded locking lever at the top of the depth gauge. With the blade locked partially out, the bolt on the blade should now be exposed in the viewport of the blade guard. Press and hold the shaft lock while using the attached allen key to remove the blade. Replace the blade and again hold down the shaft lock while tightening the bold on the new blade. With the new blade secured, press the safety trigger to release and retract the blade.References[1] Makita. Plunge Cut Circular Saw. [online]. Available at: [Accessed 7 Jul. 2018].[2] Tundra, Tools, and Tech (2017). Makita XPS01PTJ Track Saw Overview. [online] YouTube. Available at: [Accessed 7 Jul. 2018].Circular SawAuthors Constantine Venizelos and RobName of Machine: Circular Saw Link to Manufacturer’s Manual: 3 Sentence Description:The circular saw is a hand held cutting tool that uses a disk cutting blade to make cuts. This can either be a toothed or abrasive disc. Each type of disk is designed for specific materials and can either cut straight cuts or gradual curves. An alternative hand-held tool for curved cuts is a jigsaw and will be able to make cuts with a smaller radius. Physical Limitations:?Kerf: .0415 in?Maximum Angle: 45 degrees?Maximum Cutting Capacity: 2-1/4 inMaterials:Due to being in the wood room, the circular saw can only be used to cut wood or plastic sheets. It can be used to cut lumber such as 2x4, but the chop-saw would be a better option. Woods:?Plywood?ParticleboardPlastics:?PVC?Polycarbonate/Lexan?AcrylicPPE:Safety glasses and closed toe shoes are required in the wood room and must be worn while operating the circular saw. If a large amount of dust is produced while cutting, a dust mask is advised to be worn. E-Stops and Safety Procedures:The circular saw has a built-in safety mechanism that must be depressed before the saw is turned on. Before use, ensure that the cut is being made on a stable surface supported near the cut. The circular saw can be stopped at any moment by releasing the trigger. Always hold the tool with both hands. Startup Procedure:1.Attach a battery to the back side of the circular saw’s handle.Operation:1.Mark the line for cutting on the workpiece.2.Adjust the depth of the cut using the depth adjusting lever on the handle side of the circular saw.a.Loosen the lever on the side of the rear handle.b.Move the base up or down. No more than one blade tooth should project below the workpiece.c.Lock the lever back into place. 3.Adjust the angle of the cut using the bevel cutting lever on the front of the circular saw. a.Loosen the lever on the front of the saw.b.Set the desired angle.c.Lock the lever back into place. 4.Fix and support the workpiece to the bench. 5.Hold the circular saw with both hands.6.Start the saw by depressing the lock off lever and then the switch trigger. Make sure to start the saw before cutting into the workpiece. 7.Release the switch trigger when the cut is finished. 8.Begin cleaning. Recommended Clean-Up:Remove the battery and put it on the charging racks by the door of the wood room. Blow off the tool with compressed air to clean the tool for the next user. Make sure the sawdust created is swept or vacuumed after use. References:Circular saw. (2018, July 03). Retrieved from . (n.d.). Makita Instruction Manual Cordless Circular Saw [PDF]. Details -XSH03Z. (n.d.). Retrieved from for Using a Circular Saw in Woodworking. (n.d.). Retrieved from troubleshooting/ maintenanceClean out the upper and lower guards to ensure there is no accumulated sawdust which may impede the operation of the lower guarding system. A dirty guarding system may limit the proper operation which could result in serious personal injury. The most effective way to accomplish this cleaning is with compressed air. If the dust is being blown out of the guards be sure the proper eye and breathing protection is used. Adjusting for accuracy of 0° and 45° cut (vertical and 45° cut)This adjustment has been made at the factory. But if it is off, adjust the adjusting screws with a hex wrench while inspecting 0° or 45° the blade with the base using a triangular rule or square rule, etc. Use the 45° stopper for adjusting 45° angle. Adjusting bevel guideThe bevel guide has been factory adjusted. But if it is off, you can adjust it as the following procedure. To adjust the bevel guide, loosen the two screws. Align the 0° line on the bevel guide with the guide on the base when the base is set to 0° angle. All other maintenance should be performed by a licensed technician.SawzallAuthor RobName of MachineMakita 3070CTZ Recipro Saw with AVTLink to Manufacturer’s Manual of tool in Space 3 Sentence ELI5The Makita Recipro Saw is a fast, powerful saw for cutting through difficult materials or obstructions in hard-to-reach places. It is not a precise or clean-cutting saw and is rarely suitable for a finish cut. Choose the Recipro Saw for demolition, rough cutting of stock, or cutting of metal, plastics, or pipe.Physical LimitationsStroke: 1 1/4 inMax pipe cutting capacity: 5 1/8 inMax wood cutting capacity: 10 inStrokes per minute: 0 - 2800MaterialsSoftwood(pine, poplar, fir, dimensional lumber, plywood, etc)Hardwood(walnut, cedar, oak, hickory, etc)Plastics(PVC, acrylic, Delrin, etc)Note that the tool can cut the following materials, but these materials can not be cut in the wood room. Please ask a PI to temporarily take the tool to a different area if you need to cut the following materials.AluminumMild steelStainless steelAutoclaved lightweight concretePPEAs with any wood shop tool, safety glasses and closed-toe shoes are required. Ear protection (earplugs or ear muffs) are also recommended with the recipro saw. Wear a respirator or mask if the tool will create fine powders during cutting. Depending on the work, consider wearing heavy gloves, long pants, long-sleeve shirts, and other protective clothing.E-Stops and Safety ProceduresThe Makita Recipro Saw has no E-Stop. Release the trigger to stop the saw. Unplug the saw before performing any adjustments or tool maintenance.Whenever possible, firmly clamp the workpiece to a bench or table, or otherwise steady and secure it firmly. Always have the shoe against the workpiece during usage. Ensure that the work will remain steady and secured after the desired cut.Project IdeasHow to demolish a wall: to break down a pallet to reclaim the wood: notice: this method leaves metal from nails and screws in the wood. Carefully remove the metal before using the wood in any wood room tools, especially the tablesaw, planer, jointer, and miter saw.Start up ProceduresInstall the appropriate bladeUnplug the tool, and rotate the blade clamp sleeve to the right to unlock the blade clamp. Remove the blade in the saw, if there is one, and replace the blade with the appropriate blade: either the normal blade for wood and plastics, or the metal-cutting blade for metals. The metal-cutting blade can be identified by much finer cutting teeth. Be sure to insert the blade fully, then rotate the blade clamp sleeve to the left, back to the fixed position. Ensure that you cannot pull the blade out manually. Adjust the shoePress the shoe button on the left side to release the shoe. Slide it in or out to adjust the shoe. Position the shoe so that the workpiece will be cut by a fresh, less dull part of the blade. To lock the shoe, press the shoe button on the right side. Select cutting actionThis tool can be operated with an orbital or a straight line cutting action. The orbital cutting action thrusts the blade forward on the cutting stroke and greatly increases cutting speed. To change the cutting action, press the stopper and turn the lever to the desired cutting action position. Then, release the stopper to lock the lever. Refer to the table to select the appropriate cutting action. Choose cutting speedUsing the adjusting dial at the base of the handle, select an appropriate cutting speed. If necessary, this can be adjusted while the saw is running to fine-tune cutting speed. Note that for thicker materials, a slower cutting speed is often recommended. OperationConfirm that the workpiece is firmly secured and will not move during cutting. Plug in the Recipro Saw, avoiding long extension cords. Place the blade above the workpiece, with the shoe touching the workpiece. Pull the trigger to start cutting, and pull with more pressure to increase cutting speed. Steadily move the blade through the workpiece. When finished with the cut, release the trigger. When cutting metal, use a cutting fluid like TAP Magic or 3-in-1 to lubricate and cool the blade.Recommended Clean-upUnplug the saw. Remove the blade and return the blade to the blade holder sleeve. Return the saw and the blades to the carrying case, and return the carrying case to its location. Use a broom, brush, dustpan, or vacuum as required to remove and dust, chips, or debris from the working area. Advanced Troubleshooting/MaintenanceUnplug the saw before performing any maintenance.Periodically check the saw blades for excessive wear, and replace the blades when necessary. Periodically check the brushes for excessive wear. Use a screwdriver to remove the brush holder caps, and replace the brushes if they wear to the limit mark. If you decide to replace the brushes, replace both brushes at the same time and with identical, new brushes.For all other maintenance, talk to a master to get the tool serviced by a licensed technician.References Details -JR3070CTZ. (n.d.). Retrieved July 8, 2018, from SanderAuthor Alex DebateName of MachineThe wood shop offers three orbital sanders:?DeWalt DWE6421?DeWalt DWE6423?Makita BO5041 Link to Manufacturer’s Manual?DeWalt DWE6421 and DWE6423 () ?Makita BO5041 () Picture of Tool in Space 3 Sentence DescriptionOrbital Sanders are handheld power tools used to quickly sand large, flat portions of a project. Different grits of sandpaper are available and are held onto the Sander with Velcro. Some Orbital Sanders have variable speed control.Physical LimitationsAll of the Invention Studio sanders use 5” sanding disks. Available grits range from 80 to 320.Materials?Hard, soft, and composite woods?PlasticsPPESafety glasses and close-toed shoes are required in the wood room, where the orbital sanders are located. Loose clothing and hair should be restrained. A mask is suggested if a large amount of dust is being produced, as repeated inhalation of dust can be harmful.E-stops and safety proceduresKeep long hair tied back and away from all rotating parts of the ing into contact with the spinning sander may result in minor scratches but is typically harmless.Startup Procedure1.Plug in the orbital sander to any provided power outlet. Due to the short length of the power cord, it is recommended to use the drop-down extension cords located throughout the wood shop.2.Attach the desired sandpaper to the Velcro disk, making sure to not leave any Velcro exposed. Align the holes on the sandpaper with the holes on the Velcro to allow for proper dust evacuation.3.Ensure the sanding surface is not in contact with anything before turning it on.4.For the DeWalt sanders, turn the switch located on the front of the sander to the “on” position. For the Makita sander, push the lock button to the “on” position and pull the trigger.5.If the sander has variable speed, adjust the speed knob to the desired setting.Operation of equipmentWhen the sander is powered on, hold the sanding disk against the work piece. If more accuracy is desired, adjust the angle of the sander to reduce the amount of the disk in contact with the work piece.Start with a coarse grit (typically P80 to P110) and sand the entire object. Change to a medium grit (P220, for example) and repeat the sanding. If desired, complete a finishing pass with a fine grit (P320). A good introductory video is available from Ace Hardware () Recommended clean-upSweep large collections of dust and chips into a trash can. Afterwards, spray the work surface and sanded piece with compressed air to remove most of the dust.Basic TroubleshootingAlways unplug the sanders before troubleshooting or performing maintenance.Sometimes the Velcro attachment will wear, preventing the sandpaper from properly adhering. If this occurs, follow the appropriate manual to replace the Velcro.Occasionally empty the dust bag attached to the orbital sander. Too much dust can build up on the workpiece and interfere with sanding.ReferencesDeWalt. (2018, July 7). DeWalt DWE642X Instruction Manual. Retrieved from DeWalt Tools: USA, inc. (2018, July 7). Makita BO5041 Orbital Sander Instruction Manual. Retrieved from Makita Tools: PlanerAuthor SidName:Hand Planer (Woodriver No. 5)Link to Manufacturer’s Manual: Picture: Description:The hand planer is a manual solution for shaving away layers of wood from a surface to reduce its thickness. The hand planer is a great solution for smoothening or paring away constant thickness chips of wood from a surface. The hand planer is preferable to sanding when the thickness of the stock need be reduced.Physical Limits: 2 inch cutter width.14” length.The cutter is at a 21 degree angle, and is not adjustable.The deeper the cut, the harder the operation.Longer cuts require longer planes. Materials:WoodPPE:Safety glasses - in case of flying chips of wood Clamps - to hold down the workpieceProject Ideas:How to use a hand plane: to shape a square block of wood with a planer: Smoothen a table top with a hand planer: Operation:1.Clamp the stock wood to the worktable.2.Loosen the blade of the planer using the screw dial in front of the handle.3.Move the blade down until it is on the same level as the base of the plane.4.The plane is a two-handed tool. Hold the back handle in one hand, and the ball handle in the other.5.Place the plane flat on the surface to be reduced.6.Move the blade forward smoothly to pare away large chips of the surface. Make sure to move the blade along the grain of the wood for smoother cuts. 7.Adjust the blade up and down depending on the desired depth of cut.8.Unclamp and rotate the wood as necessary to plane all surfaces.Advanced Troubleshooting:1.If the planer does not cut, lower the blade slightly below the base level.2.If the planer does not move smoothly across the surface, decrease the depth of the cut.3.If the planer gets stuck, the blade may need to be sharpened: use a screwdriver to loosen the blade and remove it from the planer. Wet the sharpening stone with the blade oil. Move the angle of the blade along the sharpening stone slowly with the blade facing away. Be sure to preserve the angle of the blade.4.Sanding out large bumps in the wood may make planing easier.References: MortiserAuthor AlexName of MachinePowermatic PM701 MortiserLink to Manufacturer’s Manual of Tool in Space[Not Applicable, not in space yet. A stock picture of the tool is included as figure 1.] Figure 1 - Powermatic PM701 Mortiser3 Sentence DescriptionThe PM701 is a tabletop square chisel mortiser. It combines the functions of a chisel and drill press to create rectangular holes in workpieces. Typically, this will be used to create a mortise-and-tenon joint, a common type of woodworking joint.?Physical Limitations?Limited to ? horse power at 1725 RPM?Useful Chisel Plunge (The maximum depth the chisel can be inserted into the material):o1/4” chisel: 1-13/16” plungeo5/16” chisel: 2-1/8” plungeo3/8” chisel: 2-3/4” plungeo?” chisel: 3-5/32” plungeo?” chisel: 5” plunge?Maximum Vertical Clearance (the distance between the base and the bottom of the chisel): o1/4” chisel: 4-29/32” clearanceo5/16” chisel: 4-11/16” clearanceo3/8” chisel: 4-11/16” clearanceo?” chisel: 4-11/16” clearanceo?” chisel: 2-3/4” clearance?Material width and length limitations depends upon table size, and where clamps can be safely placed (As determined by a prototyping instructor)Materials?WoodoHardoSoftoCompositePlywood, particle board, laminates, etc.?Soft Plastics (eg. Delrin)PPESafety glasses and close-toed shoes are required in the wood room, where the mortiser is located. A mask is suggested if large amounts of dust is being produced, such as in the case of hardwoods.Project Ideas (with links to content)?Double Mortise and Tenon Joint ()oNote: The bandsaw is an excellent tool for producing tenons. ?Mortise and Tenon Table ()?Wedged-through mortise and tenon mirror frame () ?Startup ProcedureAs shown in figure 2, the Start/Stop switch is located to the left of the motor. Flip the switch out to start; flip in to stop. The yellow insert is a switch lock which prevents the mortiser from being started when removed. Figure 2 - Start/Stop SwitchOperation of equipment1.Set the depth stop to the required depth of the cut.2.Place workpiece on the table and against the fence.3.Adjust the fence position until the workpiece is in the correct position.4.Secure the workpiece using the mortiser’s built-in clamp. If this is insufficient, use additional clamps provided in the wood shop.5.Turn on the machine and steadily pull down on the black operating handle to lower the chisel and auger into the workpiece.Operation Notes:?On the first cut, drill approx. 1” at a time, then back the chisel out of the material. This allows chips to clear from the hole.?The workpiece can be moved, and additional cuts can be made to extend the size of the mortise. After each cut, ensure that the open slot on the chisel is facing towards the previous cut to allow chips to clear the auger.?If a mortise is being cut through the entire piece of material, place a piece of scrap wood underneath the workpiece to prevent breakout and to keep from damaging the tool table. ?Advanced troubleshooting/maintenanceListed below are the troubleshooting and maintenance procedures that will typically need to be performed by prototyping instructors on the mortiser over its lifetime.General:?A coat of paste wax applied to the table and column will help to keep the surfaces clean.?Secure the mortiser to the work table with fasteners (not included with tool) through the holes located on the four corners of the tool bed.?If the power cord is worn, cut, or damaged in any way, have it replaced immediately.?The Mortiser requires only minor maintenance, such as cleaning and lubrication and routine adjustment and sharpening of the chisel and auger.?Dust the machine down after each use and, as necessary, use light applications of oil or grease to lubricate linkages, moving parts, etc.Changing chisel and augerChanging the chisel and auger is a difficult procedure, and should be performed by a trained Prototyping Instructor of Master. In reference to figure 3:1.1. Open door (A).2.Swing two bushing spacers (B) away from the head (C). 3.Loosen the lock screw (D).4.Insert the chisel bushing (E) into the head (C), lining up the hole (F) with the lock screw (D).5.Set the lock screw (D) so the threaded end extends into the hole (F) of the bushing (E), holding it in place. The bushing should still have about 1/4" of vertical travel margin. The chisel to auger clearance is the vertical clearance between the auger and chisel. When assembled, the proper chisel to auger clearance is dependent on the chisel size and the position of the chisel (adjustable) with respect to the auger (which is fixed). The position of the chisel is set with spacers described in the following steps. 6.Position spacers (B) so they rest against the bushing above the lip (J).7.Insert the auger (K) into the chisel (L). Then insert the assembly through the bushing (E). Using gloves or a block of wood, press up on the auger as far as it will go. The shank should slide into the opening in the bottom of the chuck (M). 8.Using the chuck key, tighten the chuck (M) to secure the auger (K). 9.Move the spacers (B) away from the bushing (E), push the chisel and bushing up against the head (C); then tighten the lock screw (D). Figure 3 - Changing chisel and auger?Sharpening Chisel and Auger:Auger: Sharpen the auger by using a small, smooth file, following the original shape of the auger. File the inside edge of the spur, the sides of the brad point, and the cutting edge inwards toward the flute of the auger (see figure 4). Do not file the outside edge of the spur, as this will affect the diameter of the auger. Figure 4 - Auger maintenanceChisel: In reference to figure 5:Sharpen the chisel (A) with the chisel sharpening cone (B) located on the top of the column next to the tool holder. Set the chisel (A) on the sharpening cone (B) and rotate back and forth until sharpened (C). Note: Make sure the set-screw is tight to prevent the cone from spinning. Using a fine stone or micro-abrasive on a flat surface, lap the outside faces of the mortise bit to remove any burrs. Figure 5 - Chisel maintenance?LubricationAll of the ball bearings are packed with grease at the factory. They require no further lubrication. Periodically grease the gears, racks, and table pivot points with a #2 tube grease.Periodically clean and oil any exposed machine surfaces, such as: dove-tail ways and slides, and table surface.ReferencesPowermatic Tools. (2018, July 7). Operating Instructions and Parts Manual for Deluxe Bench-top Mortiser Model 701. Retrieved from Powermatic: SawAuthor MateoCoping SawPicture of Tool in Space3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5)The coping saw is used to cut fine circular shapes into wood by hand. The flexible blade allows you to change directions while you are cutting[1].Physical LimitationsYou can’t cut deeper than the metal bracket that holds the blade.MaterialsThis item is for wood or items like wood such as PVC or acrylic.PPEWear glasses in case the blade comes undone and springs back. Additionally, wood splinters could enter your eyes if you are not careful.Project Ideas (with links to content)You can use a coping saw to cope joints [2].Operation of EquipmentMake sure the blade is secure and the wood you are cutting is secure and start sawing.Basic TroubleshootingIf the blade is not secure, then tighten it with a screwdriver.References[1] Coping saw. (2018, July 03). Retrieved from [2] How to Cope Base Molding. (2011, December 02). Retrieved from JigAuthor RobName of MachineKreg Jig K4Link to Manual(NK8448).pdfPicture of Tool in Space 3 Sentence ELI5The Kreg Jig is used to install pocket screws, a way to fasten boards together with hidden screws that can’t be seen from the outside. They are less strong than conventional butt-jointed screws, but look better. Choose the Kreg Jig when appearance matters and a simple glue joint will not be strong enough, such as in furniture.Physical LimitationsFor use with materials from 1/2" to 11/2" thick (12-38mm)Drills standard 3/8 in pocket holesMaterialsSoftwood(pine, poplar, fir, dimensional lumber, plywood, etc)Hardwood(walnut, cedar, oak, hickory, etc)PPEAs with any wood shop tool, safety glasses and closed-toe shoes are required. Ear protection (earplugs or ear muffs) are also recommended when using the jig for a long time. Wear a respirator or mask if the material is a respiratory irritant, such as pressure-treated lumber or Cocobolo.Project IdeasWall cabinets built with Kreg joints: using Kreg joints:: in this video, Bob uses the smaller, portable Kreg Jig. The same principles apply, and our jig can actually be pulled out of the base to use like he uses it.Kreg jig picture frame: ProceduresSet the drill guideFor a strong joint, the screw should exit close to the center of the drilled workpiece. To adjust the pocket-hole position, unscrew the drill-guide locking pin. Then align the mark on the side of the drill guide that matches the thickness of the workpiece with the top edge of the guide socket. Screw in the locking pin. Choose a screw typeDue to the large diameter and thread pitch, our #8 coarse-thread screws offer a strong hold in softwoods and composite materials. Use in woods such as: Pine, Cedar, Basswood, Poplar, Plywood, MDF, Particle Board Because the smaller diameter and thread pitch, our #7 fine-thread screws reduce the chance of splitting the material, we recommend them for hardwoods. Use in woods such as: Ash, Oak, Maple, Walnut, Hickory, Cherry, Mahogany, BirchChoose a screw length Position the Stop Collar Place the step bit in the setup gauge on the jig base, aligning the step shoulder with the dimension mark that matches the thickness of your workpiece. Slide the stop collar onto the end of the bit and position it against the end of the stop-collar recess. Tighten the stop-collar set screw with the hex wrench. Adjust the Clamp Pad Advance the toggle clamp to the full-clamped position. Place your workpiece against the drill guide, loosen the jam nut on the clamp-pad shaft, and finger-tighten the clamp pad against the workpiece. Unclamp the toggle and advance the clamp pad 1? to 2 turns. Test for adequate clamp pressure, make any necessary adjustment, and tighten the jam nut. Pocket-Hole Placement In addition to the proper Kreg Jig settings, spacing pocket holes evenly across the workpiece is an important part of getting a strong joint. The Kreg Jig features a three-hole drill guide that allows you to do this in a variety of workpiece widths without the need to reposition the workpiece after drilling each hole. Use the guide below to determine how to position your workpiece for drilling pocket holes. For wide parts such as panels, we recommend placing the first pocket hole 2" (51mm) from the panel edge and every 6" (152mm) to 8" (203mm) on center after that. When drilling panels, you can use any drill guide hole.Operation of EquipmentBefore turning on the drill, slide the bit into the drill guide until the tip of the bit touches the workpiece. Withdraw the bit about ?" (6mm). Turn on the drill, make sure it is running at full speed, and feed the bit into the workpiece. Always run variable-speed or multi-speed drills at the fastest speed. Partially withdraw the bit several times while drilling the pocket hole to clear the chips. Stop drilling when the stop collar contacts the drill guide. Wait until the drill stops rotating to withdraw the bit from the drill guide.With the pocket holes drilled, position and clamp your parts. Small flat assemblies can be aligned by clamping them to a flat surface. When using a Kreg face clamp to clamp large flat assemblies off the edge of your work surface, position the large clamp pad on the side of the joint opposite the pocket holes. Align the corners of case assemblies, such as a cabinet or bookshelf, using bar clamps or a Kreg right-angle clamp. (See Optional Accessories.) With your assembly securely clamped, drive the pocket screws using a variable-speed drill/ driver and the included 6" (152mm) driver bit. For drills with a clutch, adjust it to fully seat the screws without over-driving them.Basic TroubleshootingEnsure that all of the settings are correct before drilling any holes, and consider drilling several holes in a test piece of the same material to ensure that you have everything configured correctly and that you understand the functionality. Lay out your boards ahead of time and mark where you are planning to drill pocket holes with a pencil. Then, using tape or clamps, roughly assemble the boards in their finished configuration. This can help ensure that the pocket holes won’t be visible in the finished assembly.ReferencesKreg Jig? K4. (n.d.). Retrieved July 8, 2018, from PotAuthor ReedTool NameSpeedaire Paint Tank (Pressure Pot)Link to Manufacturer’s Manual of Tool 3 Sentence Description The pressure pot is a sealable chamber that can be pressurized up to 50 psi. Certain projects can benefit from curing under pressure. The quality of resin casting in particular can be drastically improved by curing under pressure.Physical Limitations●Inner Diameter: 8.5in [1]●Inner Height: 11.5in [1]●Max Pressure: 50psi [1]MaterialsNAPPENo PPE is specifically needed for this tool. However, as it is stored and used in the wood room, closed toed shoes and safety glasses are required.E-Stops and Safety ProceduresThe pot can be depressurized at any point by pulling on the bronze release pinProject Ideas●Color Pencil Vase●Resin Cast FlowersStartup ProcedurePlace the items for curing into the pressure pot. Place the lid onto the pot and raise each of the four clamping knobs. Twist the thick black regulator knob counterclockwise until it stops. The pot is ready for pressurizing. Operation of EquipmentTighten down all four knobs to clamp down the lid. Bring down the pressure air line from the ceiling. The quick release valve on the air line will attach onto the pressure gauge. Slowly turn the regulator knob clockwise and watch the pressure build in the pot. Select the appropriate pressure for the application. NEVER pressurize the chamber to more than 50psi. Leave the air line attached and the pressure pot undisturbed for the duration of the curing. To open the pressure pot, turn the regulator knob counterclockwise all the way. Pull the bronze release valve until the pressure drops to 0psi. Remove the air line from the pressure pot. Loosen the four knobs and remove the lid. Remove the contents. Recommended Clean-Up●Replace the nozzle on the air line and recoil the air line.●Replace the lid on the pressure pot●Return the pressure pot to its place in the cabinet.Basic TroubleshootingIf encountering any issues with the pressure pot, immediately cease using the pressure pot. Seek the help of a PI.If the pressure pot appears damaged in any way, do not use the pressure pot. Consult a PIAdvanced Troubleshooting/Maintenance Replacing the wooden base:Periodically the wooden base will need to be replaced. Laser cut a circle of plywood with a diameter 8.5inAir leak at the lidThis is likely due to either a damaged gasket, a dirty rim, or one of the four knobs being loose.References[1] . (2018). Speedaire Paint Tank. [online] Available at: [Accessed 7 Jul. 2018].Different Types of Drill BitsAuthor RiteshManual: DrillSpade BitForstner BitCountersink Description:A drill bit is a metal cutting tool that can be used to create cylindrical holes in different materials. Drill bits are available in many different sizes and shapes depending on the desired hole and material being worked with.Physical Limitations:Four types of drill bits are available in the Invention Studio, whose pictures are above:1.Twist Drill Bit: the most commonly seen drill bit. Typically available in sizes up to ?” diameter2.Spade Drill Bit: used when a hole larger than ?” diameter is desired.3.Forstner Bit: used when a hole with a flat bottom is desired, known as a counterbore4.Countersink Bit: used to create a tapered edge on an existing hole, typically to make a screw flush with the surface of the workpiece.Materials:Most drill bits can be used on wood, plastics, and thin metals.Note: If metal needs to be drilled, use the drill bits located in the Metal Room. Do not drill metal in the Wood Room since this is a fire hazard.PPE:Safety Glasses must be worn to keep eyes clean of sawdust and other debris.A dust mask is recommended if drilling is to be done for an extended time or if sensitive to sawdust and fine particulates.Project Ideas:1.If a threaded hole for a bolt is desired, first find the drill size which corresponds to the tap size being used. After drilling a hole of the specified size, find the desired tap to create the threading on the hole.2.Sometimes, a hole with a tapered upper edge is desired. Such a process is known as countersinking, and is done with a countersinking bit (commonly called countersink).Use Procedure:1.Make a mark on the piece to be drilled corresponding to the center of the desired hole.2.Place the drill bit into a hand held electric drill or a drill press, making sure to tighten the chuck sufficiently onto the drill bit.3.Align the drill bit with the center mark placed in Step 1, and clamp the workpiece either to a table if using an electric drill, or the bed of the drill press if using the drill press.4.If using an electric drill, make sure that the forward facing arrow button is pressed in. This can be found on either side of the drill.Basic Troubleshooting:If smoke is coming out of the hole as it is being drilled, stop immediately and allow the bit to cool for a couple of minutes. Consult a PI for additional assistance.If using excessive force, check to make sure that the drill spindle is rotating in the correct direction and the drill bit is tightly held in the chuck. Also, inspect the drill bit for dullness. Consult a PI as well for additional assistance.Resources:[Twist Drill]. (n.d.). Retrieved July 8, 2018, from [Spade Bit]. (n.d.). Retrieved July 8, 2018, from [Forstner Bit]. (n.d.). Retrieved July 8, 2018, from [Countersink Bit]. (n.d.). Retrieved July 8, 2018, from GunAuthor MateoNail Gun18-Gauge Pneumatic 2 in. Brad Nailer KitLink to Manufacturer's Manual Picture of Tool in Space 3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5)Nail guns are an alternative to drilling screws and hammering nails into wood. They are typically used when removal of the nails is not a concern. This particular nail gun is a brad nailer which is great for finishes where nailheads should be small and nearly invisible. [1]Physical LimitationsThe brad nailer can fit brads upto 2 inches.MaterialsNail guns are used exclusively for wood and lumbar.PPEWear safety glasses when operating nail guns.E-Stops and Safety ProceduresNail guns feature a tip that must be depressed (pressed in) to allow the nail gun to engage and fire nails. If pressure is not connected and the tip is not depressed, then the nail gun will not fire. Do not point the nail gun at anything besides your project and the workbench. Lay the nail gun down on the table when not in use making sure it will not slide off or move.Startup ProcedureTo start using the nail gun insure that there is nails in the magazine in the front. Next get the compressed air hose and disenange any instruments that may be on it already. To connect or disconnect the air hose, simply pull back the ring and push or pull the plug into the coupler unit. Once you have connected your nail gun in such a manner, you are ready to begin nailing.Operation of EquipmentMake sure your pieces of wood are securely attached to each other and flush. The less space between the pieces of wood, the more effective your nailing will be. Use clamps or a second person if necessary. Push the nose of the gun against wood where you wish to fire a nail and pull the trigger to fire a nail. Once you are done, remove the air hose from the nail gun.Basic TroubleshootingIf the nail gun is not firing nails, then make sure it has ample nails inside the magazine. Additionally, make sure there is enough air pressure to fire nails. Do not attempt to cut wood that has brads in it with a band saw, table saw, or other motorized saw.References[1] Nail gun. (2018, July 03). Retrieved from GunAuthor CollinTool NameDEWALT 4-in-1 Multi-Tacker (Also known as a Staple Gun)Link to Manufacturer’s Manual(NOTE: A manufacturer’s manual could not be found; the above is a product page for the Multi-Tacker)Picture of Tool 3 Sentence Description A staple gun is a hand-held machine used to drive heavy metal staples into wood, plastic, or masonry. Staple guns are useful for affixing a variety of materials, including insulation, roofing, wiring, upholstery, and hobby and craft materials. [1]Physical LimitationsSize of stapleMaterialsStaplesPPESafety glasses and closed toes shoes.E-Stops and Safety ProceduresN/AOperation of EquipmentPlace the two parts to be affixed next to each, ensuring the staple gun is flat against the surface, and squeeze until a loud click.Basic TroubleshootingN/AReferences of WoodAuthor MateoTypes of Wood3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5)Different projects in the wood room call for different types of wood. Other factors that change the type of wood you will use include the project budget, the color, the qualities of the grain, the size, and the workability of the wood. Places near Georgia Tech to buy wood include Carlton's Rare Woods & Veneers and Randall Brothers Inc.Physical LimitationsSelecting wood as the material means that you must respect the limitations of wood. Wood is flawed and likely to decay. Wood is porous and will warp and inevitably disintegrate in water. Wood cannot sustain the same forces metal and other materials can withstand. MaterialsSee the referenced databases at the bottom for a list of types of woods [1]. Additionally to natural woods, there are manufactured woods. The Guide To Wood Types page covers some of the manufactured woods [2]. For example, plywoods and MDF (medium density fiberboard) are great for projects where the wood is remaining the same thickness.Project Ideas (with links to content)Some cool projects where the type of wood used matters are cutting boards [3] and wood bowls [4]. Cutting boards typically use hard maple because it is hard. Wooden bowls benefit from using green wood for beginners because it is softer and more forgiving.Basic TroubleshootingIf the wood you are using for a project is not performing as you would like, then go look up what qualities you can expect from your types of wood. For example, certain woods are great for turning while other woods are great for creating furniture. The only way you can find that out is by researching and testing.Advanced Troubleshooting/MaintenanceRemember that wood goes bad over time, so be sure to finish whatever project you are working on with the appropriate finishes.References[1] BACK IN STOCK. (n.d.). Retrieved from [2] OUR GUIDE TO WOOD TYPES. (n.d.). Retrieved from [3] Chen, G. (n.d.). Why is Maple the Most Popular Wood for Cutting Boards? Retrieved from [4] A Lathe Can Be Used for a Lot More Than Just Spindle Turning. (n.d.). Retrieved from Types of LumberAuthor Robert3 Sentence Description (ELI5)Lumber refers to wood products usually meant for use in construction, diy projects, and other applications that prioritize cost and convenience over appearance. Lumber has several advantages, including standardized sizes, low cost, and wide availability. Lumber often falls into several categories: dimensional lumber (think 2x4s), sheathing (think plywood), and composite products (cheap artificial wood boards and sheets).Physical limitations / materialsDimensional lumber / framing lumber / studsDimensional lumber is the cheapest and most common wood that is used in diy projects, and it can be found in the lumber section of nearly any home improvement store. Dimensional lumber is often called by its “nominal dimensions”, like 2x4. The actual dimensions of the board are usually 0.5in or .75in less than the nominal dimensions in each direction - meaning that an “8ft 2x4” is actually 8ft x 1.5in x 3.5in. Commonly sold dimensions include: 1x2, 1x4, 1x8, 2x2, 2x3, 2x4, 2x6, 2x10, 2x12, and 4x4, though others are sometimes available.Dimensional lumber is made of soft whitewood and species vary by region, but here in Georgia dimensional lumber is often fir or pine. (Autodesk forum)Pressure treated lumberPressure treated lumber is very similar to dimensional lumber, often coming in the same sizes and styles. Pressure treated lumber has preservatives and other chemicals added during the manufacturing process that help keep the wood from rotting or degrading over time. It is used where the wood will often touch the ground, or otherwise be exposed to dirt or water for long periods. It is more expensive, but can drastically improve the longevity of your projects if used appropriately. Pressure treated lumber can be identified by its green color. (Lowes)SheathingPlywoodPlywood is the most common type of flat wood found at most home stores. It is made from layers (plys) of wood, glued together. It is often sold in 2ft x 4ft or 4ft x 8ft sections, and is sold by the thickness. Commonly, plywood is sold by a nominal thickness, which may or may not actually match the thickness of the material. “Underlayment” is the cheapest type of plywood, often made of pine or similar whitewoods. It is cheap but brittle, and is prone to cracking or tearing out. Birch plywood is much stronger and more uniform, and cuts very cleanly, but is more expensive. Plywood can be cut with nearly every woodshop tool, and plywood 1/4in thick or less can be cut very well on our laser cutters.OSB / Particleboard / Melamine / MDFThese “composite” wood products are made from leftover wood strands, chips, or dust that have been glued together to create boards and panels. These products are cheap and easy to use, making them a go-to option for diy projects. They also usually come in 2ft x 4ft or 4ft x 8ft sheets, and are sold in various thicknesses. Composite products are extremely easy to shape and cut, but can sometimes split or crack. They are generally not as strong as their plywood counterparts, but are much cheaper and can be very useful. (Pinterest)Project ideas2x4 Bench Table from One Sheet of Plywood notice - this user works with hanging earbuds, which is not good woodshop practice. They also do not use a guard while working with the tablesaw, which we advocate using whenever practical.Epoxy Finish for OSB notice - this user doesn’t use gloves or a respirator when working with large quantities of epoxy resin. We advocate that users use both of these pieces of PPE. Use epoxy in a well-ventilated space, like outside or in our paint booth.Basic troubleshootingDimensional lumber is easy to shape and cut, but the grain can often “tear out” leaving chips or splinters on your pieces. Dimensional lumber is often unsuitable for craftsman woodworking due to this tear-out, its lackluster appearance, and soft nature prone to scratches and dings. Choose dimensional lumber where appearance is of little concern, and cost is a high priority.Pressure treated lumber can be cut and shaped in many of the same ways as dimensional lumber, and is prone to similar issues with tear-out and dents. When sanding or otherwise making fine powder from pressure treated lumber, be sure to use a respirator to protect your lungs from the chemicals in the wood. Choose pressure treated lumber where the boards will often be exposed to dirt or water. Plywood is the go-to option for flat wood. Choose underlayment when the appearance and strength of the wood is not important, and choose birch plywood when strength and appearance matter. When strength or uniformity are absolutely required, choose “aircraft-grade” or “marine-grade” plywood which is guaranteed to be firmly bonded and strong. Plywood can not be used on the jointer or posite panels are a cheap option for diy projects and are very easy to work with. Choose OSB when you want a cheap alternative to plywood. Choose particleboard or MDF when strength and appearance don’t matter. Melamine-covered particleboard is scratch, stain, and water resistant, so it can make a great desk or counter-top. Composite panels also can not be used on the jointer or planer. Composite products often do not sand or finish very well, so it is hard to make them look good. Be sure to seal composite panels well, using paint or primer, as they are often easily damaged by water.Advanced troubleshootingLumber often does not take stain or oil very well, so avoid using these finishes. Instead, use paint or other coverings to seal and protect the wood as well as improve its appearance. Excellent finishes can be had in lumber by using a medium-grit sandpaper (150-300) to smooth the wood, followed by 2-3 coats of primer and 1-2 coats of paint, either spray, roll, or brush-on. For the best finish, lightly sand with fine-grit sandpaper (300+) between coats. Tear-out can be mitigated by using very sharp cutting tools and cutting slowly, allowing the blades to cut the material, rather than push it. Always pre-drill holes before adding screws to lumber, especially near the ends of pieces of wood, to mitigate cracking and splitting. Choose a drill bit that is as large as the center (minor diameter) of the screw. If using a flat-head screw, also countersink the hole to further mitigate splitting. Avoid screwing into the edges of plywood, as this can de-laminate, or separate, the plys.ReferencesBest way to add US wood sizes()Top Choice Pressure Treated Dimensional Lumber()Pinterest()FinishingAuthor MateoFinishing3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5)Usually as the last step of a project, woodworkers like to apply substances that prepare their wood for whatever they plan on using it for. This can both be aesthetic or practical whether you want the wood to be water resistant, bring out the grain appearances, have a shiny finish, or a variety of other reasons. Among many others, a few common finishes are stains for wood grain color and wax, shellac, and polyurethane for waterproofing and glossy finishes. See the wikipedia article in the references for a broad summary of different types of wood finishes. [1]MaterialsFinishes are most commonly used on woods. However, they could work on any porous material. The stains fill in the pores and prevent the woods from drying and getting wet and deteriorating.PPEIf the finish is harmful to breath, then it is advised to use a respirator. Finishes such as polyurethane and resins are bad to breath.E-Stops and Safety ProceduresDo not taste or eat the finishes unless specifically stated as edible. Also, if the project could potentially be food related such as a cutting board, then make sure the finish is food safe.Project Ideas (with links to content)Projects that involve finishing wood: cutting boards [2], tables[3], longboards[4], picture frames[5]. Really any wood project where you would like to increase the longevity of the wood or enhance its color!Recommended Clean-UpTry to work on paper towels, paper, or other surfaces where it would be fine to spill the finish on the surface. Always try to clean up leftover finish from your workspace, so that future users do not risk accidentally staining a portion of their wood.Basic TroubleshootingIf there is inconsistency in the spread of the finish, then try sanding down to a finer grain and adding multiple coats. Make sure the coats are applied evenly and given ample time to dry if the finish is liquid.Advanced Troubleshooting/MaintenanceSeveral stains such as beeswax and other semi-permanent finishes will need to be reapplied periodically depending on the usage of the project that the finishes have been applied to. For example, a cutting board should be polished upto once a month with non permanent finishes such as waxes.References[1] “Wood Finishing.” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 4 July 2018, en.wiki/Wood_finishing.[2] Instructables. “How to Make a SUPER SWEET End Grain Cutting Board!” , Instructables, 15 Oct. 2017, [3]“17 Ways to Build a Table.” This Old House, 5 June 2018, ideas/17-ways-to-build-table.[4] Instructables. “How to Build a Longboard.” , Instructables, 30 Oct. 2017, id/How-to-Build-Your-Own-Custom-Longboard/.id/How-to-make-a-SUPER-SWEET-cutting-board/.[5] “How to Build Perfect Picture Frames.” Start Woodworking, plans/how-build-perfect-picture-frames.ChiselsAuthor CollinTool NameWoodworking (Bevel-Edged) ChiselsLink to Manufacturer’s Manual of Tool 3 Sentence Description Woodworking chisels are used for cutting or carving wood. In order to cut into the wood, the chisel tool is forced into the material. The driving force may be done by hand, or may be applied using a hammer or mallet. [1] Physical LimitationsSize of the chisel head. The Invention Studio chisel set includes the following size chisels:●1”●3/4”●5/8”●1/2”●3/8”●1/4” MaterialsThe woodworking chisels in the Invention Studio should only be used for woods and soft plastics. Never use the chisels on metals. PPESafety glasses should be worn while woodworking, and closed-toe shoes should be worn in the wood room.Project IdeasChisel a wooden spoon: of Equipment [2]General Practice:●Clamp workpiece down so it doesn’t move●Wrap one hand around the handle and use a mallet (not a hammer) to drive the chisel. ●Be sure to cut with grain to avoid splitting the wood.Chopping Cut [2] Image Source: Family Handyman●Chop out large amounts of wood by slicing off small amounts with each cut. Strike the chisel with a hammer and chop down about 1/2 in. Then chisel from the end to remove the piece before continuing. ○Note: the chisel must be sharp for this cut.Chop and Pare [2] Image Source: Family Handyman●Cut a groove, or dado, by first sawing along both edges to the desired depth. Then break out the wood in the middle with the chisel. Space the chisel cuts about 1/2 in. apart.Basic TroubleshootingChisel Won’t Cut Smoothly/Wood is Splitting ●Check the sharpness of the cutting edge, and inspect for chinks. If the edge is dull or chinked, sharpen the chisel blade.●Ensure the chisel direction is going with the grainReferences[1] kadaba, s. (2018). Chisel Tools – Uses of Chisels In Different Industries?. Retrieved from [2] How to Use a Wood Chisel. (2018). Retrieved from MateoClampsIrwin Quick Grip, Metal & Resin Spring ClampsBessey Clutch Style Bar ClampsJorgensen Medium-Duty Steel Bar ClampsLink to Manufacturer's Manual of Tool in Space 3 Sentence Description (Explain Like I'm 5)Clamps can be used to secure wood that you are drilling, sawing, sanding, or any other operation that may spin or shift the wood. Additionally, clamps are the best way to make sure two pieces of wood are flush as you glue them together. Physical LimitationsThe limitations of these clamps are the length of the shaft or the angle of the pinch point. In the case of the Bessey and Jorgensen Bar Clamps thisMaterialsClamps are good for wood, acrylic, metal, and a variety of other instruments.PPEIf operating the clamps in the woodroom, then it is advised to have safety glasses on.Operation of Equipment [1] [2]The most important thing is to slide the the sliding arm of the clamps as close to the wood before applying pressure. This technique will save you time. Also sometimes you might want to distribute the pressure from the clamp with a piece of scrap wood that is not as valuable as the project currently requiring clamping. Most of the Bessey clamps have rubber on the jaws, so that isn’t a problem for them. However, watch out because some of the Bessey clamps have lost their tips. Additionally, the Jorgensen clamps don’t have rubber tips.The Irwin Quick Grip clamps are trigger clamps. The Irwin Metal and Resin Spring Clamps are spring clamps. The Bessey Bar Clamps, and Jorgensen Bar Clamps are F-clamps.The Irwin Quick Grip clamps can be engaged by squeezing the large handle on the sliding arm. The small lever will release the pressure from the clamp. It also allows the user to quickly slide the adjustable part up and down the metal shaft.The Irwin Metal and Resin Spring Clamps are used by squeezing the handle and placing the pinch point around the wood that is being glued together.The Bessey Bar Clamps and Jorgensen Bar Clamps are traditional F-clamps with an additional ratcheting sliding mechanism to use on the bar. Pressure is applied by tightening the screw on the sliding arm with the handle.The Irwin Metal and Resin Spring Clamps are used on thinner gluing projects.Basic TroubleshootingIf the sliding arm is stuck sure there is no glue or other interferences on the shaft or bar of the clamp.ReferencesWhat are the parts of a trigger clamp? (n.d.). Retrieved from are the parts of an F-clamp? (n.d.). Retrieved from ................
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