ProShow Producer Notes



ProShow Producer Notes

Check the HELP button on your program 

If the quotes below don’t help try searching under posts for the following people, all though everyone contributes tons of stuff these guys really know their stuff!:

Briancbb Barbara K marmart 57 Corvette sumgrl19 Jeep thedom pd

Brenda lsheppard rascoscarelli rouseet imabeatlelover jenn

Gabbill peterframpton

There are lots and lots and too many to mention…..these are bits I have “grabbed” from the forum that helped me when I started learning…..enjoy!

I got started in ProShow by reading the HELP files built into the program. I've reproduced a portion here:

The General Process of Creating a Show

1. Add photos, video and music to your show. You'll want to start by adding content into your show. This is done by dragging files from the File List into the Slide List. You can arrange your slides after they are added by clicking and dragging them in the Slide List.

2. Set your timing. There are two different times for each slide: slide duration and transition duration. The slide duration (located below the slide's thumbnail) controls the length of time the slide is visible on the screen. The transition duration (between the slides) determines how long the transition between slides lasts. These two times do not overlap. The total time of your show is the sum of all the slide times and transition times. You can set either of these times by clicking on them in the Slide List and entering a new value in seconds.

3. Choose transitions. ProShow provides over 280 different transition effects. To set the transition for the selected slides, click on the transition icon between two slides. In the window that appears, you can preview all the effects and select any one by clicking on it.

4. Apply motion, text and effects. By double-clicking any slide you can access the Slide Options. These options let you apply motion effects, adjustments, captions and more to your slides.

5. Save your show. As you're working on your show, be sure to save your work frequently by clicking the Save button on the main toolbar.

6. Preview your show. You can preview your show as much as you'd like by clicking the Play button on the main toolbar. You can even preview at your own speed by clicking on the trackbar above the Slide List and dragging left or right.

7. Create your output. Once you're happy with your show, you can output your show for playback on your TV, any PC, or the Web.

Creating a Quick Show

To create a very quick show with no customization, try the following:

1. Use the Folder and File Lists to locate the desired photos on your computer.

2. Drag the desired photos into the Slide List to add them to your show.

3. Select all slides by clicking any slide and choosing Select All from the Edit menu.

4. If you like, you can choose Randomize Slide Order from the Slide menu to put your slides in random order.

5. Choose Randomize Transitions from the Slide menu to change up the transitions.

6. Choose Randomize Motion Effects from the Slide menu to apply a small amount of motion to each slide.

7. Drag a music file from the File List to the soundtrack bar at the bottom of Slide List.

8. Choose Sync Show to Audio from the Audio menu to set the timing.

9. Click the Play button on the toolbar to view your show.

Hope this helps

Leigh

SLIDE SETTING OPTIONS:

In PSP, we actually have five settings for each photo. The four you mention, plus "Stretch to Frame". I have listed how each of these setting affects the outcome of your image below:

Fit to Frame: Will adjust the image so none of the image is lost, but will leave black bars along the top & bottom or sides of the screen unless the image has the same aspect ratio as selected in Show Options.

Fill Frame: Will adjust the image so the entire screen is filled. The edges of the image will be cropped off in order to do so unless the image has the same aspect ratio as selected in Show Options.

Stretch to Frame: Will adjust the image so the entire screen is filled, and no cropping occurs. The image will be distorted in order to accomplish this unless the image has the same aspect ratio as selected in Show Options. I haven't found a useful purpose for this setting.

Fill Safe Zone: Adjusts the image so that the entire safe zone (specified in Show Options) is filled, but parts of the image may extend beyond the safe zone, (or even beyond the edge of the screen) unless the image has the same aspect ratio as the safe zone.

Fit to Safe Zone: Resizes the image as required so the entire image fits within the safe zone. No cropping occurs, but may leave black edges within the safe zone unless the image has the same aspect ratio as the safe zone.

The important thing to note is that with the exception of "Stretch to Frame", none of these settings has a permanent effect on the image being shown... all these settings do is set a starting point for the selected image. Motion effects ignore these Object Settings. In other words, if I set the image to "Fit to Safe Zone", and then pan, zoom, or rotate... the motion effects may extend the image beyond the borders of the safe zone.

So when starting a new show, I set my Show Options to 16:9 or 4:3 (as required) and leave all my slides at the default "Fit to Frame", which allows me to see each photo in its maximum size initially, without any of the image being lost beyond the edge of the screen. I then use the motion effects to resize, zoom, pan, or rotate the image as desired.

I like to create my shows so they are shown at their best.. (or will show at their best when shown on the proper equipment). Just because the client doesn't have a Widescreen montor or HDTV today, doesn't mean he won't have it tomorrow. I don't like to restrict the show to the lowest common denominator (4:3 TV). So, to tell you the truth, I don't usually worry about TV viewers unless the recipient has specifically requested it.

I simply use the "safe zone" guides in the editing screen as a reference to make sure the viewer won't lose critical detail (text or whatever) if viewed on TV.

If you truly want to keep your entire show within the safe zone (so it always looks the same regardless of what it is shown on), then the simplest way to ensure that, is to use a mask that covers everything except the safe zone.

Leigh

ASPECT RATIO 4:3 vs 16:9

I have used a Widescreen monitor for about the last 9 months and now use it for all my PSP work. As you stated, widescreen is quickly becoming the standard for TV and Computer Monitors. My feeling is... I want to have built shows that are ready to be optimally displayed on those screens. A show produced in widescreen format plays fine on all monitors.. but leaves black bars on the top and bottom of a 4:3 screen .. something we are all used to from widescreen DVD's etc. showing on our standard TV screens but is certainly not all that visually appealing.

If you build a show in 4:3 aspect ratio and it is displayed on a widescreen monitor, then of course the show is displayed in the center of the monitor with black bars on the left and right edges. Again, not particularly appealing visually. I can tell you that nothing matches the dramatic impact of a Proshow presentation created for widescreen, being shown on a widescreen monitor. It is breathtaking. I take most of my photos in a landscape orientation and am learning to take my photos with Proshow in mind so that the zooms, crops, masks, and transitions are planned for in the shot and I can make maximum use of the extra space that widescreen offers.

In your opening question you stated "is the only way to totally fill the screen from side to side done by "zooming" the picture until the "preview screen" (set for 16:9) is filled to the outer edges? Because if this is so, then there will be part of the picture (both sides) that will not be shown and may be required. " Just to clarify, it is actually the top and bottom of the image that get cropped as you try to make the image fit a 16:9 aspect ratio, and as others have stated if those portions of the original photo are critical you do have other options available to present them in widescreen without cropping or sacrificing parts of your image.

If you don't want to crop the image, then pan and zoom as required so the viewer doesn't miss anything. Or use a mask that allows the entire picture to be displayed, framed within a background that fills the rest of the screen. Or use templates that move and rotate and make use of the entire screen. In short, if you are building a show specifically for someone that has a widescreen monitor.. then do everything you can to use the extra real estate that a widescreen offers. Proshow gives you lots of options to use that space without needing to crop the photos.

Widescreen presentations also give you room to attractively display two or more portrait oriented images on the screen at the same time. One of the reasons I purchased Producer was that the layers function available in PSP gives me so many more things I can do to effectively display photos taken in portrait orientation, or that otherwise do not fill the screen, than PSG.

Just my opinion, but I think it would be a mistake to not use your Uncle's widescreen TV to its full potential.

I have created a show that is done in all B&W and in widescreen format, just to see if the resulting show might give you some ideas. The images are from photos that are over 60 years old, and are in bad need of being enhanced with Photoshop. I didn't have time to play with that tonight, so I just used the images "as is", soft focus, blemishes, cracks, and faded areas included. What I wanted to show was how you can effectively use the extra space that a widescreen gives you.

I had fun... so I hope I don't offend you if you already knew this stuff! This was just as much an exercise for my benefit.



Leigh

16:9 is indeed the aspect ratio for wide screen/HDTV

I like the 16:9 ratio. As I burn mainly for TV showing in the UK where most TV's are 16:9. If they are a 4:3 TV they show in a 'letterbox' format (have black bars top and bottom).

The 16:9 ratio allows you to have two 3:4 (portrait 4:3) images alongside each other. This adds variety to the show and changing related pictures alternately it is good (not for the whole show though [pic]). Brian

Right Click Magic 

I discovered about right click magic thanks to members of the ProShow group

Using right click in Producer applies the given item to all slides or the selected ones. I was delighted to discover this, for example, I usually use sharpening and now I can apply the desired amount all the slides I wish.

The right click is available in Slide Images and Video for Fill Frame, Zoom, and Aspect. In Slide options right click works for

Opacity, Adjustment, Rotation, Outline,Color, and Shadow.

In Motion and effect it works for Pan, Zoom, and Rotate and for Slide background.

I found I had to get my cursor on the right place usually the entry or selection box. Well worth the effort though!

Old John

Selecting multiple photos for a slide

In the normal window just hold down the ctrl key while you select each photo you want to be on a layer. Then hold down the ctrl key again and drag them to the timeline. It will put each photo you selected in the 1st step on a layer in 1 slide.

Jason

Text Fade-out and Duration

In PSP you cannot change the rate of fade etc for captions. What you can do is alter when the text fade in starts, in relation to the slide start. By entering say 2 the text starts 2 secs into the slide, -2 and the text starts 2 secs before the slide. Also you can state when the text finishes. If a slide is 6 secs long and you enter 10, then the text will carry over 4 secs to the next slide.

Agreed it would be useful to vary the rate of the 'fade in' 'fade out' particularly with some of the text motions.

Brian

Masks 

Have you ever noticed that when you zoom in on a picture the outside edges 'grow' as the picture gets bigger. This can be prevented using a mask produced in Photoshop (or other package).

I tend to use a 16:9 video format, (I'm in the UK with widescreen TV) but can also be used in a 4:3 with appopriate pixel number changes (2400x1800) at step 1. below.

This describes placing a 4:3 image within a 16:9 mask,

1. In Photoshop produce a black canvas 3200x1800 pixels. (16:9 ratio)

2. Using the rectangular marque tool centre a 2130x1600 marque (this is a 4:3 ratio for landscape photo)

3. Using the 'background eraser' make the inside of the selection trasparent.

4. (Optional) Using edit>stroke place a white 3 to 5 pixel line on the outside of the selection.

5. Save the resulting .png file.

To use in Producer:

Drag the 4:3 ratio picture file to the slide.

CTRL Drag the above psd file to the same slide.

The picure should now appear behind the mask, outlined by a white line if the optional 'stroke' was used.

Careful use of scaling, panning and zooming will keep the picture behind the frame and now no more 'moving edges'.

At step 2 above using a 1200x1600 pixel marque will produce a 'portrait' style frame the same height as the 'landscape' frame.

Hope you can follow this, it adds quite a 'professional' touch to shows. With a bit of adaption two 'portrait' frames can be put side by side in a 16:9 mask.

Using this mask also keeps the picture within the 'safe' zone of a TV.

Brian

ADJUSTING COLOR

 

Yes you can do it in PSG. Select the slides that you want to change by holding down the Ctrl key and clicking them. Click on 'Slide' in the top menu bar. When the 'Slide Options' window opens select the 'Adjustments' tab. Put a check mark in the box for 'Colorize Layer'. This will turn your photo to black and white. Now click 'Set Color' and move the outside ring color to an orange. Fine tune the shade to a light orange using the inside triangle. When you've got a color you like click 'Set Color' and close this box. Then right click in the color area around 'Set Color' and you will see the option to 'apply to all slides' or 'apply to selected slides'. Choose which option you want.

Barbara

MOVING LINE ON A MAP

You asked about the moving red line on the map in the London Bus show - here goes:

You need three layers (Slides)

1. The original map - bottom layer.

2. A large area of solid red - middle layer.

3. The original map but with the road in question carefully deleted - top layer.

In PSP make sure the layers are as shown. The bottom map layer makes sure you cannot see the deleted road

as the original map road colour will show through.

In "Motions" slowly move the red area in the appropriate direction.

Keep it simple - in the London Bus I have deleted the road but left all the road names intact. Takes a bit of doing

but leads to a nice effect.

By delete I meant go into Photoshop or whatever image program you use, select the delete tool and with a small brush carefully delete the road. In Photoshop you must change the file name from "background" to something else or the deleted area will not appear transparent.

Have fun,

Peter

Animating the curl effect and working with 3D white frame 

Ok, I thought this was very cool and I think I have figured out how to do it. What I did was put a curl mask above my photo on a slide and adjusted the pan setting to put it into position and zoomed it to about 50%. For the end position I zoomed to 135% and adjusted the pan to line it up again.

It looks pretty cool!

I have also been playing with the 3D white frames but I think they will need to be adjusted to work. I tried increasing the canvas size and adding black on the outside of the 3D white frame with no shadow. This allows me to place the frame over an existing image, effectively masking any of the image which falls outside of the frame after zooming the size to as close as I can to get it to fit.

Can anyone else suggest how to do this easily?

Linda

 

There are a few different ways to do this. I will try to explain in as much detail as I can...but somethings can be rather hard to explain in a text message... [pic]

I tried replicating your sitiuation in my own program.

Here is a way to do this all in one slide:

I added a photo to a slide, which was set for 3 seconds with a 3 second transition timing. I opened the slide up and clicked on "Motion Effects" then, looked to the top of the screen to where it says "Motion Timing" and then "End Motion" I set it to end 5 seconds from the begining of the slide. Then at the very bottom of the screen I change the slide timing to 8 Seconds. This would allow for the photo to "pause" for 3 seconds.

Here is a way to do this in two slides:

You said that you had set the first slide to zoom from 100 to 150...and then the second slide started at a 150 zoom. Try taking the second slide zoom down in the 140's. You will have to play with it to get the right set up. You might even have to adjust the "pan" positions (in the second slide). The reason it does this is because the first slide hasn't reached the full 150 zoom by the time the slide is complete. You could even try adjusting the "end slide timing" as mentioned in the above example.

I hope this wasn't all that confusing for you...let me know if you need any more explaining. I could make a video tutorial for you if you need it...

Thanks!

-Jessica

 

Playing Your Photodex Hosted Shows From Your Own Web Site 

For those of you interested in playing your slide shows on your own web site, but don't have the storage space to actually host the show I have a solution. The following instructions allow you to upload your show to Photodex and then link to it from within your own web site to play the show. For an example of what I mean, click here.

Here is how I make the slide shows work on my site. It seems more complicated than it is. Once you do the first one the rest become a quick process.

First, copy the code below and place it in your web site code.

PhotodexObject("ProShow","objectname","",640,480); PresenterControls("objectname",640);

Now, upload your show to the Photodex web site using the "Share Show" function within ProShow Gold. After the show has completely uploaded go to the Photodex web site and go to the "Online Sharing" page. You'll need to login to see the information, but once you do you'll see your show listed. Click on it to get to the page on their site that has the show running. If you then click on "View Page Source" from within your browsers menu options it will then display the html code for the page. Look down near the bottom third of the page for a line that looks like the one below:

PhotodexObject("ProShow","ashow","","580","435");

Note the long numbered html file above - 59110_20050501185241.html. This is your slide show file location.

Next, copy this portion only and paste it over the section of html code in your web page that is highlighted in red below.

Example:

Paste over the code highlighted below:

PhotodexObject("ProShow","objectname","",640,480); PresenterControls("objectname",640);

It should now look like this:

PhotodexObject("ProShow","objectname","",640,480); PresenterControls("objectname",640);

Now, change the html extension to px. It should look like this:

PhotodexObject("ProShow","objectname","",640,480); PresenterControls("objectname",640);

Save your page and upload it to your server. The slide show should work flawlessly.

Each time you create a new show, just follow the same instructions for each show getting the file location from the Photodex site.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Mike

 

 

 

PhotoShop Tutorials

 



 

To make the BG appear to move, I have added the sailboat as a png over a BG of the water - I added the background image with a quick pan - 1.5 seconds - then the sailboat as a png with a sky background and at 4 seconds a really long transition A/B - 10 seconds between them. I have no clue if I am doing things the right way - that was my first show!

CINDY

Creating Clouds 

Great effect, especially when the 3rd layer is added. Really adds to the realism.

To create clouds in Photoshop, probably the best approach is to use the Aurora Sky plugin. If you do not have that you can either use a filter or paint the effect with a customized brush. The latter may ultimately give better results but requires more skill on the part of the Photoshopper.

If I cannot find another image or don't have the time/subject material to shoot one I find the easiest approach is to use the filter - Render/Clouds. Apply it to a plain white background. Just be sure your foreground and background colors are set appropriate to the type of clouds you want to render before applying the filter. Typically this includes a shade of grey and a shade of blue. Experiment. If you reapply the filter repeatedly (CTRL-F on a PC) you get variations from the original. Keep reapplying until you are satisfied. You can then modify the result with multiple layers and various blending modes and selective masking. You can also transform the width for some geometric distortion. It is helpful if you convert your background layer to a regular Photoshop layer. You can then feather the lower edge to transparent for a better composite in Producer. Hope this helps.

Cheers

Peter

Masks 

Have you ever noticed that when you zoom in on a picture the outside edges 'grow' as the picture gets bigger. This can be prevented using a mask produced in Photoshop (or other package).

I tend to use a 16:9 video format, (I'm in the UK with widescreen TV) but can also be used in a 4:3 with appopriate pixel number changes (2400x1800) at step 1. below.

This describes placing a 4:3 image within a 16:9 mask,

1. In Photoshop produce a black canvas 3200x1800 pixels. (16:9 ratio)

2. Using the rectangular marque tool centre a 2130x1600 marque (this is a 4:3 ratio for landscape photo)

3. Using the 'background eraser' make the inside of the selection trasparent.

4. (Optional) Using edit>stroke place a white 3 to 5 pixel line on the outside of the selection.

5. Save the resulting .png file.

To use in Producer:

Drag the 4:3 ratio picture file to the slide.

CTRL Drag the above psd file to the same slide.

The picure should now appear behind the mask, outlined by a white line if the optional 'stroke' was used.

Careful use of scaling, panning and zooming will keep the picture behind the frame and now no more 'moving edges'.

At step 2 above using a 1200x1600 pixel marque will produce a 'portrait' style frame the same height as the 'landscape' frame.

Hope you can follow this, it adds quite a 'professional' touch to shows. With a bit of adaption two 'portrait' frames can be put side by side in a 16:9 mask.

Using this mask also keeps the picture within the 'safe' zone of a TV.

Brian

Susan

The top layer, the frame, I use 'Fit to frame'. The lower, picture layer, I also use 'Fit to frame', but at 90% zoom. Thus all the picture (just about) is seen in the frame. I have found this the easiest way.

I don't use 'fit to safe zone' as the framed picture is almost safe zone size.

The only problem I find is that when doing motion effects the top layer (frame) is the default ... the number of times I zoom this layer instead of the picture [pic]

Brian

Free Downloads - sound effects, video, backgrounds, etc... 

I just wanted to let everyone know that a lot of great (FREE) sound effects, intro and exit videos, transition music, static backgrounds, and many other things can be downloaded at the following address:



I had downloaded the Creativity Pack a long time ago, and completly forgot about it. There are a lot of great things in it.

If you decide to download the files, I recommend downloading the full fun pack.

-Jessica

I-Tunes

I had the same frustrating problem.. a huge amount of stuff on i-Tunes and PSG/PSP not recognising any of it!

So - from i-Tunes, create an audio CD of your tracks... then use Windows Media Player (I have version 10), to 'rip' the tracks to mp3. Theres another programme called 'Switch' thats available as a free download you could also try.

Hope this helps... there are probably other ways of doing it but this works for me.

Good luck with your shows Iris

I have been playing around with PRO SHOW and I would like to ask if it

is possible to do the following...

Have a..

Blank Screen

Fade in Title

Fade in Photo

Fade out Title

Fade out Photo

Miffo,

Hope this isn't too confusing. I listed the timing I used but you can make changes, the "Cut" transition timing should be kept at 0 though. The important part is for the text to be underneath the transition. If you're not familiar with this setting, it is on the Captions screen toward the left side. You will see an "A" with a line either above it or underneath it. Click this until the "A" is underneath the line.

Slide 1 - Blank slide, slide time 0.5 sec

Crossfade blend (Linear) transition 2.0 sec

Slide 2 - Blank slide with text--Text below transition ("A" should be underneath line), fade-in text, slide time 2.0 sec

Crossfade blend (Linear) transition 2.0 sec

Slide 3 - Photo with same text--Text also below transition, no motion effect for text, slide time 2.0 sec

Cut transition with 0 sec

Side 4 - Photo with same text--text below transition, fade-out text, slide time 1.0 sec

Cut transition with 0 sec

Slide 5 - Photo, no text, slide time 1.0 sec

Crossfade blend (Linear) transition 3.0 sec

If I didn't explain this clearly, let me know and I'll try again.

Barbara

Here is a simple demo I did of the effect I think you want. Let me know if this is correct and I'll tell you how I did it. It was all done within ProShow Gold.



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TWISTING PIXELS



Design Objects



YOU SEND IT

Lots of people can't get emailed shows because of the file type (exe) and size.

Do this and your problems will be solved. Make an executable file then use to send the file. The Photodex people told me about it...it's a file transfer service and you don't even have to sign up to use it.

FREE MUSIC AND ROYALTY FREE





Re: How do I create masks in Photoshop? 

crcloyd wrote:

Maybe I used the incorrect definitions. Instead of frames, maybe I should have used masks. I want to know how to create two pictures side by side on one slide. I have downloaded some masks that have this capability, but I want to create my own in Photoshop and save them as .png files to use in PSP. Can someone help me with the steps in Photoshop on how to create these .png file masks. Thanks.

There is an automated process for this in Adobe Photoshop but the location for it isn't in an obvious location.

You create your picture in Photoshop and then select the area you wish to make transparent.

Then click HELP on the menubar across the top of the screen and you will see in the list of options

Export Transparent Image.

In fact that is an automated wizard that quickly creates the PNG file.

Hi Gabill,

I actually use that all the time but I have a question. So far I have only been able to select one area to be transparent and then export. Can I select more than one and use that function? thanks for your insight. Jan

In Photoshop, if you hold the shift key when creating a selection, it will add. The alt key subtracts. You'll actually see a "+" or "-" sign when you do this. A caution, though, is to be careful, because if you click before hitting the shift or alt key, you will deselect what you've already done. Use Cttrl+Z to undo.

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