WACO NEWS



WICHITA AREA CHEVELLE OWNERS

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WACO NEWS

7550 N. Greenwich Road λ Wichita, KS 67226

|FEBRUARY 2007 ~ Chevelle Mail ~ VOLUME 20 |

|PRESIDENT |Lonnie Wall | |lonniewall67@ |

|VICE PRESIDENT |Harry Gerling | |harryhome@ |

|ASSISTANT V.P. |Tammy Stagner | |wstagner@ |

|SECRETARY/TREASURE |David Gohring | |chevellegohring@ |

|WACO WEB MASTER |JR Dehner | |ss396elky@ |

|EDITOR /PUBLISHER |Brent Hardin | |bhardin1@ |

|CAR SHOW CHAIRMAN |Mike Howell | |mhowell17@ |

|PRESIDENT’S NOTES |

|NEXT MEETING |

Wednesday λ February 7th, 2007 λ 6:30 P.M.

Joe Self Chevrolet

8801 East Kellogg λ Wichita, Kansas

|CAR SHOWS AND EVENTS |

|Jan. 3 |WACO Team Meeting - Joe Self Chevrolet - 6:30 |

| | |

|Feb 3-4 |31St Annual Sunflower Swap Meet KS Coliseum |

| | |

|May 19th |MAD/WACO Car Show and Drag Race at the Mid-America Dragway & Racing Complex |

IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO ADD ANY CAR SHOWS OR SPECIAL EVENTS TO THIS LIST, PLEASE E-MAIL THE INFORMATION TO bhardin1@

|ASSISTANT V.P. - MEETING MINUTES |

Minutes of January 3, 2007

✓ Brad talked a little about what he had planned for February

Mexican Food that is better than Cortez

Or Bob Tyler’s Car Museum – cruise to either Ark City or Winfield

✓ Richard needs help on getting sponsors for Mad Waco in

May – get with him on direction &/or guidance

✓ There are some months still open for whatever you want to

Plan for our car club

If you set something up people will come!

1. February Brad

2. March Harry

3. April T.J.

4. May Mike

5. June David

6. July Lonnie

7. August Brent

8. September

9. October

10. November

11. December

Swap Meet – February 2nd & 3rd

Unload between 1-8 on Thursday – Booths J19 & K19

We also talked about sending a flyer to local car clubs letting them know about Mad Waco.

Not much for minutes this month – a lot of talk about Mad Waco.

Any ideas, thoughts, feelings, tech tips – write em’ down and send em in to Harry or J.R. Who knows it might even be fun!

Keep Clubbing

Tammy (Tear em up) Stagner

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The hot topic this month is going to be the swap meet. 

I put a little spreadsheet or 1/2 sheet together that we can print and tear off to submit with parts and prices for the event.  Then we'll have a standard form:

NAME:__________     PHONE #: ____________

Part: ____________________ Starting Price: _________  Bottom Dollar: ________

Part: ____________________ Starting Price: _________  Bottom Dollar: ________

Part: ____________________ Starting Price: _________  Bottom Dollar: ________

Part: ____________________ Starting Price: _________  Bottom Dollar: ________

Part: ____________________ Starting Price: _________  Bottom Dollar: ________

Lonnie, don't forget to bring me a black '67 window crank, PLEASE!!

TJ

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|SECRETARY & TREASURE’S NOTES |

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|V.P. - HARRY’S HOT ROD CORNER |



Concepts and terms;

Base circle; This is the low point of the cam. The lifters have to be on the base circle at the time that you are adjusting the valves! Almost 3/4 of the cam profile is "base circle".

"Bleed Down"; As the cam lobe pushes upward on the lifter, it forces the oil inside into more compression (pressure) than what the engine is supplying. As a result, a small amount of oil is forced out of the lifter and back into the engines main oil gallery. There are SMALL holes inside the lifter that limit how fast the oil can escape. This is pretty much a standard resistance (to bleed down) except for lifters like those sold by "Rhoads".

Clockwise rotation: It's dumb, but I have to add all the little things! When I talk about rotating the engine clockwise, I'm talking about as if you are standing at the radiator looking at the engine. (it would be opposite if you thought about it as if sitting in the drivers seat) Clockwise rotation is the direction that the engine rotates when it runs. I rotate the engine by putting a socket on the harmonic balancer nut and use a large ratchet wrench (really, it's a breaker bar).

Cam Lobe: This is the area of the cam above the base circle. The lift of the cam is the height of the lobe measured off the base circle. (This is kind of interesting, if they regrind a cam to get more "lift", in reality, they are just making the base circle smaller! Otherwise, they would have to add material to the lobe. Not done!)

Hydraulic Lifters: This is going to cover the adjustment of hydraulic lifters. The lifters run on the cam and work the push rods. Hydraulic lifters are "kind of" self-adjusting. It's only within a certain range and you have to get them close. A hydraulic lifter has four parts; the body, the plunger, small (internal) spring, and a retaining clip. (Don’t take one apart just trust me!) If you look at the side of one, you will notice that there is a small hole. It's through this hole that oil is fed under pressure!

Numbering: The firing order on production Chevy V8 engines (both big block and small block) is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The pistons (or cylinders) are numbered 1,3,5,7 on the driver’s side, starting closest to the radiator. On the shotgun side, they are 2,4,6,8. On a small block, the valves are; exhaust, intake, intake, exhaust, exhaust, intake, and intake, exhaust. This is true for both sides!

On a big block, the valves on the driver’s side (starting at the one closest to the radiator) are exhaust, intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust, and intake. On the shotgun side, they are intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust.

Pivot Balls: I may be using the wrong term here, but this is what I consider it. It's the half sphere that the rockers pivot on. On some rocker configurations, there may be a pivot shaft. Some of the pivot balls that came from the factory had grooves in them that helped keep the surface oil in place. You can't tell without pulling the ball off and looking at it.

"Pump up": This is the action of the lifter filling with oil. If there is a blockage in the oil lines (or the hole in the side of the lifter), it will never pump up and the internal plunger will bottom out inside the lifter body. There is some disagreement in what I consider "pumped up". In my mind, a lifter is only pumped up while there is oil pressure in the engine and this is only while it's running!

Rockers: This is the connection between the push rods and the top of the valves. As the push rod goes up, the rocker pushes the valve down (open). Small block Chevy rockers have a ratio of 1 to 1.5. This means that the valve moves 1.5 times the distance that the push rod moves. (high lift rockers are something like 1 to 1.6) The accuracy of the factory units isn't all that great and it's not that uncommon to "select" a matching set if blueprinting an engine.

TDC: Top dead center. It's always (?) referred to in relationship to the number one piston. Keep in mind that we are talking a 4 stroke engine here and that TDC occurs TWICE for every time that the spark fires.

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Preliminary stuff

This is going to be written as if the distributor isn't installed, or may be in wrong. It assumes that the timing chain and gears are correct.

Disconnect the battery!

Remove the valve covers and the spark plugs.

You will have to make some marks on the harmonic balancer. Start with the TDC mark that is already on it and make marks 90 degrees apart. In other words, make a mark directly across from the TDC mark and then marks halfway between that point and TDC mark.

Here is a method of marking the balancer; Get a seamstress tape. This is the type "tape measure" that a seamstress would use and they are made out of cloth. Of course, that means that if you can't borrow one from the girlfriend, you will have to enter a fabric store! (they don't cost much!!!) Being made out of cloth, they are a lot easier to work with than a metal tape measure. Use the tape to measure the circumference (around the outside) of the balancer and then divide the number by four. That gives you the 90-degree distance. Then use masking tape to position the beginning of the tape at the top dead center point. Feed the tape around the balancer and use more masking tape to hold it in place. If that "90 degree distance" was 5 1/4", then you would mark on your balancer (with a felt marker) at the 5 1/4" point on the tape. Then mark at 10 1/2" (add 5 1/4"), and again at 15 3/4" (adding another 5 1/4"). Be sure to remove the tape before starting the engine. (and if you get engine oil on your girlfriends tape, it wasn't my idea!)

You have to start with the engine at TDC, at the cycle where number one spark plug would fire. In order to do this (don't forget that there are two TDC's) you have to rotate the engine and watch the number 1 intake valve (second from the front on the drivers side). You want the TDC that happens right AFTER the intake valve has opened and closed.

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How's it done----Method #1:

You are now at TDC (at the end of the compression cycle) and are ready to adjust some valves. With the cam in this position, the valves for the number 1 piston are fully closed. Another way to say this is that the lifters for the number 1 cylinder are on the base circle.

When you adjust the valves, don't use a deep socket! By using a standard socket, the socket shouldn't touch the pivot ball. If it does touch the ball, it is harder to get an accurate feel.

Adjust the #1 cylinders valves:

You want to hold the push rod and notice that it's loose (or at least should be at this point). As you adjust the rocker down, you will remove the slop. You now want to tighten it down an additional 1/4 turn.

Yes, it's that simple. Except you have to keep in mind what you are doing. The idea is that you are tightening everything down just until the slop is gone. If you read instructions wrong and adjust down until you can't rotate the push rod with your fingers, you have compressed the internals of the lifter and bottomed out its plunger. If you then go that additional 1/4 turn, the valves are ALWAYS open and the engine will not start. (this is a BTDT item)!

You want to adjust both of the valves for the cylinder in question.

Rotate the engine 90 degrees:

You are going to the mark that you put on the harmonic balancer.

Adjust the #8 cylinders valves: (passengers side)

Rotate the engine 90 degrees:

Adjust the #4 cylinder valves: (passengers side)

Rotate the engine 90 degrees:

Adjust the #3 cylinder valves: (drivers side)

Rotate the engine 90 degrees:

Your timing mark should now be back on TDC! If it isn't, then you messed up somewhere and you should start over.

Adjust the #6 cylinder valves: (passengers side)

Rotate the engine 90 degrees:

Adjust the #5 cylinder valves: (drivers side)

Rotate the engine 90 degrees:

Adjust the #7 cylinder valves: (drivers side)

Rotate the engine 90 degrees:

Adjust the #2 cylinder valves: (passengers side)

Rotate the engine 90 degrees:

You had better be back at the TDC point or you made a mistake!

You are done!

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Method #2;

Please read method #1 first, just in case I forget to add some tidbit of information.

This method is a little easier due to having to rotate the engine less and you don't have to make the additional marks on your balancer. The only drawback is having to closer attention to what valves you are doing. For that reason, I'd recommend that you print out this page and check off the valves as you go.

If it seems strange that so many valves can be adjusted at one cam position, it's due to the amount of area where a cam lobe is on its base circle. Remember, as I said above, that almost 3/4 of the cam profile is at the base circle. Keep in mind, we are talking Chevy V8s here and if you come across an engine with a different firing order, this will not be valid!

As in method #1, you should be at the TDC compression cycle of the number 1 cylinder at this time. Also as stated in method #1, you should be using standard socket (and not a deep socket).

See method #1 for how to adjust a valve!

I'm going to number the valves as starting at the front of the engine. That means that the "eighth" valve is the closest to the firewall.

Adjust the #1 exhaust valve

(small and big block--closest to radiator, on drivers side)

Adjust the #1 intake valve

(small and big block--second from the front, on drivers side)

Adjust the #3 exhaust valve

(small block--forth from the front, on the drivers side)

(big block-- third from the front, one the drivers side)

Adjust the #5 intake valve

(small and big block--sixth from the front, on the drivers side)

Adjust the #7 intake valve

(small block--seventh from the front, on the drivers side)

(big block-- last on the drivers side)

Adjust the #2 intake valve

(small block--second from the front, on the passenger side)

(big block-- first from the front, on the passenger side)

Adjust the #4 exhaust valve

(small and big block--fourth from the front, on the passenger side)

Adjust the #8 exhaust valve

(small and big block--last on the passenger side)

Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would be firing! It's where #6 would fire.

Adjust the #3 intake valve

(small block--third from the front, on the drivers side)

(big block-- forth from the front, on the drivers side)

Adjust the #5 exhaust valve

(small and big block--fifth from the front, on the drivers side)

Adjust the #7 exhaust valve

(small block--last on the drivers side)

(big block-- seventh from the front, on the drivers side)

Adjust the #2 exhaust valve

(small block--closest to the radiator, on the passengers side)

(big block--second from the front, on the passengers side)

Adjust the #4 intake valve

(small and big block--third from the front, on the passengers side)

Adjust the #6 exhaust valve

(small block--fifth from the front, on the passengers side)

(big block-- sixth from the front, on the passengers side)

Adjust the #6 intake valve

(small block--sixth from the front, on the passengers side)

(big block--fifth from the front, on the passengers side)

Adjust the #8 intake valve

(small and big block--seventh from the front, on the passengers side)

You are now done.

Harry Gerling

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|WEB MASTER’S NOTES |

As we start the New Year, I am making the request again, if you want your wheels on the WACO Member’s Web Site link please send me pictures and a brief message about you and your Chevelle or El Camino.

JR

WACO Web Master

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|EDITOR’S NOTES |

OK JR,

Here you go! Put this in your newsletter and smoke it! HA!

Later,

Brent

Thanks Brent for the love, dedication and self-sacrifice you endure for our Club….

Consider it smoked…

JR

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Hello everyone,

Hope you are enjoying your New Year. Yep it's 2007! Can you believe it? Where does the time go? I hope you are looking forward to this year and all that it has in store for you and your car club.

 

I know that we as a club have a lot of fun things going on this year. The first event of the year is the Sunflower swap meet. This is the largest swap meet of the year for most of us. It’s also a lot of fun seeing everyone and BS’n with your WACO buddies. Hope to see you all there on February 2nd and 3rd.

 

Also we have a couple of car shows we are hosting this year. The first being the MAD/WACO car show and Drag Races and later on in the year, the Andover Days Celebration and Car Show. Both of these shows are going to be exciting as well as beneficial to our club. Please try to help out the WACO officers and the other WACO members that are working real hard on these events.

 

Ok here’s a new opportunity for us that I would like to talk to everyone about. I have been asked to have WACO host the River Festival Car Show in 2007 and 2008 and beyond. We will be helping and learning this year but in 2008 we would be on our own. Then if we decided to keep it up, we could host again in 2009. You may not know this but the Wichita River Festival is one of the biggest events in the state of Kansas and the biggest event in Wichita. I think it would be a great opportunity for our club and the Wichita River Festival takes care of all the expenses! We don’t need any money or sponsors for this show! We will be in charge of the mailing list, which they have already from last year. Also assembling entry packets, ordering trophies, and running the show the day of the event. It sounded like a cheap and easy way for us to be connected to the “Riverfest” and for us to acquire more contacts for our shows that we put on throughout the year.

 

Please come to the next meeting and give me your input on this show and on the other shows that we are hosting. Hope to see you all soon and…

 

Keep on Chevelling!

 

Thanks,

Brent Hardin

WACO NEWS

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|FOR SALE & WANTED |

|316-204-9910 |For Sale 1976 Chevy 3/4ton pickup 454cu 400th trans good paint /couple of minor rust spots. Good tires and brakes. |

|Ask For JR |Would make an excellent tow vehicle. $2000.00 |

|NEW WACO SPONSORS |

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|NEWSLETTER DEADLINES |

The deadline for the newsletter articles and or ads is 10 Days before the next regular club meeting. If you don’t have your article turned in by that date, it may not be in the next newsletter. This will give me enough time to put the newsletter together, print it and mail it on time. NOTE – When you want to advertise something in the newsletter and you email us the information, please include your full name and phone number with area code. This will make it much easier for our readers to contact you about your stuff!

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W.A.C.O.

7550 N. GREENWICH

WICHITA KS 67226-8253

Happy Motoring WACO

Next Meeting February 7th

Read More in the Issue of the WACO NEWS

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