MTM - NHE Inc
Troubleshooting Reference
One of the primary responsibilities of the Maintenance Department is to maintain and repair equipment. Although not intended to replace the manufacturer's manuals for every piece of equipment, this section of the manual is to be used as a quick reference for troubleshooting.
GAS RANGE TOP BURNER ASSEMBLIES
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1.) Burners won’t light |a) Pilot flameout | |
| | | |
| |b) Burner not properly positioned | |
| | | |
| |c) Flash tube out of place | |
| | | |
| |d) Burner adjustment low | |
| | | |
| |e) Gas turned off | |
| | | |
| |f) Orifice/burner holes clogged | |
|2) Pilot flame out and won’t stay lit |a) Pilot flames adjusted too low | |
| | | |
| |b)Too much burner air, blocking pilot out | |
| |pilot out | |
| |c) Pilot orifice hole blocked | |
| | | |
| |d)Pilot orifice too high | |
| | | |
| |e) Gas turned off | |
|3) Yellow burner flame |a) Air shutter not open enough | |
| | | |
| |b) Too much gas to burner | |
| | | |
| |c) Burner not lined up properly with orifice | |
|4) Red burner flame |a) Too much gas | |
| | | |
| |b) Draft in room | |
|5) Flame blows away from ports |a) Too much gas to burner | |
| | | |
| |b) Too much air to burner | |
| | | |
| |c) Draft in room | |
|6) Flame flashes back into mixer head |a) Air and gas mixture adjust | |
| | | |
| |b) Gas leak at orafice or valve | |
|7) Thermal eye burning food |a) Bypass flame set too high | |
| | | |
| |b) Pan not making good contact with sensing element | |
| | | |
| |c) Sensing element out of calibration | |
| | | |
| |d) Flame size not properly adjusted for size of pan | |
| | | |
| |e) Damaged or defective capillary tube | |
|8) Thermal eye not maintaining high enough flame |a) Sensing element out of calibration calibration | |
| | | |
| |b) Burner orifice clogged | |
| | | |
| |c) Defective control | |
|9) Gas smells in kitchen |a) Leak in pipe joints | |
| | | |
| |b) Too much gas to burners | |
| | | |
| |c) Valve leaking. Knob binding against control panel | |
| |and holding valve stem out | |
GAS RANGE EQUIPPED WITH SAFETY VALVES
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1) Oven burner flame goes out |a) It is normal for oven burner flame to go out at | |
| |any dial setting after oven reaches temperature. | |
| |Burners should relight when temperature goes below | |
| |dial setting. | |
|2) Pilot flame goes out on oven burner |a) Too much air going into burner I causing flame to |a) Cut down on air by moving a shutter. |
| |lift and blow out pilot. | |
| | | |
| |b) Burner over gassed blowing out pilot flame. |b) Adjust orifice. |
| | | |
| |c) Pilot control valve not operating properly. | |
| | |c) |
| |d) Oven in "chimney" or draft conditions. Oven | |
| |cabinet should be completely closed. | |
| | |d) |
| |e) Pilot set too low. | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | |e) Adjust pilot higher. |
|3) Oven too hot |a) Standby pilot set too high preventing burner from |a) |
| |cycling off. | |
| | | |
| |b) Burner overgassed. |b) Cut down at orafice. |
| | | |
| |c) Thermostatic valve dirty. |c) Recalibrate heat control. |
| | | |
| |d) Heat control sensing bulb broken or leaking. |d) |
|4) Baking takes too long |a) Oven not preheated properly. Should be preheated |a) Explain to user. |
| |25 to 50 degrees higher than baking temperature and | |
| |turned back when food is placed in oven. | |
| | | |
| |b) Burner overgassed causing excessive preheat time. | |
| | | |
| |c) Heat control out of calibration. |b) Adjust burner orifice hood. |
| | | |
| | | |
| | |c) Adjust control calibration. |
|5) Cakes burn on bottom |a) Burner overgassed. |a) Adjust burner orifice hood. |
| | | |
| |b) Improper pan; sides of pan too high. Thin aluminum|b) Explain to user. |
| |or other bright pan is best. bright pan is best. | |
| | | |
| |c) Oven not preheated properly. I Should be preheated| |
| |25 to 50degrees higher than baking temperature and |c) Explain to user. |
| |turned back when food is placed in oven. | |
| | | |
| |d) Pans not properly located in oven. Center of oven | |
| |is best for most baking. See Use and Care Manual. | |
| | | |
| | |d) Explain to user. |
| | | |
|6) Oven will not turn on manually. |a) Pilot light out |a) Refer to item 1. |
| | | |
| |b) Dirty or defective pilot control valve |b) Clean or replace valve |
| | | |
| |c) Dirty or defective thermostat valve | |
| | |c) Clean or replace |
|7) Oven sweats or window fogs up |a) Oven not preheated for minute with door open to |a) Explain to user |
| |displace natural humidity | |
| | |b) Explain to user |
| |b) Oven door opened too often while baking | |
| | | |
|8) Burners won't light |a) Pilot flame out |a) |
| | | |
| |b) Pilot flame too low |b) Adjust pilot |
| | | |
| |c) Burner out of position |c) Adjust burner |
| | | |
| |d) Flash tube out of position |d) Adjust flash tube |
| | | |
| |e) Burner undergassed |e) |
| |) | |
| |f) Gas off |f) |
| | | |
|9) Pilot flameout and won't stay lit |a) Pilot flames adjusted too low |a) |
| | | |
| |b) Too much burner air blowing pilot out |b) |
| | | |
| |c) Pilot orifice hole stopped up | |
| | |c) |
| |d) Pilot orifice too high | |
| | |d) |
| |e) Range subjected to unusual drafting | |
| | |e) |
|10) Yellow burner flame |a) Burner air shutter not open enough |a) Adjust |
| | | |
| |b) Too much gas to burner | |
| | |b) Adjust |
| |c) Burner not lined up properly with orifice | |
| | |c) |
|11) Red burner flame |a) Too much gas |a) |
| | |b) |
| |b) Too much draft. |b) |
|12) Flame blows away |a) Too much gas to burner |a) |
| | | |
| |b) Too much air to burner |b) |
| | | |
| |c) Draft in room |c) |
|13) Flame flashes back into mixer head |a) Too much air in proportion to gas |a) |
| | | |
| |b) Gas leak at orifice or valve | |
| | |b) |
|14) Gas smells in kitchen |a) Leak in pipe joints |a) |
| | | |
| |b) Too much gas in burners |b) |
| | | |
| |c) Valve leaking |c) |
|15) Grates rock |a) |a) Rotate grates one-half turn |
| | | |
| |b) Top may not be down securely causing warped |b) |
| |condition | |
GAS RANGE EQUIPPED WITH FLAME SWITCH
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1) Burner cannot be turned off by thermostat. | |a) Disconnect plug from wall socket. |
| | |If burner remains on, replace the solenoid valve. |
| | | |
| | |b) If burner goes off when plug is disconnected, |
| | |inspect wiring and terminals for short. |
| | | |
| | |c) If no short is evident, turn calibration |
| | |screw clockwise several turns. This will shut off gas |
| | |if the thermostat is misscalibrated. Then, recalibrate|
| | |thermostat. |
|2) Bake burner cannot be turned on by thermostat. | |a) Be sure the electric supply cord is I plugged in |
| | |and the electric power is ON. |
| | | |
| | |b) Check to see if the bake pilot is ignited and that |
| | |its flame is clear and rigid. The flame should flow |
| | |around the capillary of the flame stitch. |
| | | |
| | |c) If the burner does not come on, inspect the wiring |
| | |for loose or faulty connections. |
| | | |
| | |d) If the burner still fails to turn on, turn |
| | |thermostat to 400oF. Using a jumper wire, connect |
| | |across the flame switch terminals. If, at this point, |
| | |the burner turns on, the flame switch is defective and|
| | |must be replaced. |
| | | |
| | |e) If the above action does not correct the problem, |
| | |then, using another jumper wire, connect across |
| | |terminals 1 an 2 on the thermostat with first jumper |
| | |still connected across flame switch terminals. |
| | | |
| | |If the burner comes on, remove the jumper wire from |
| | |across the flame switch terminals. If burner stays on,|
| | |the thermostat should be replaced. |
| | | |
| | |f) If burner does not come on after |
| | |the above procedure has been |
| | |followed, the solenoid valve is |
| | |defective and must be replaced. |
|3) Broil burner will not come on when the thermostat | |a) Check to see if the aerated pilot is ignited and |
|is turned to BROIL. | |that it has a clear hard flame about 1/2" in length |
| | |which reaches above the pilot shield. The flame should|
| | |flow around the capillary of the flame switch. |
| | | |
| | |b) If aerated pilot is not functioning properly as |
| | |described above, the following checks and adjustments |
| | |should be made: |
| | | |
| | |Check pilot adjusting screw to make sure |
| | |adjustment is all the way open. |
| | |Check orifice for correct size. Use.010 for natural |
| | |gas and .005 for LP gas. If size is correct, check for|
| | |foreign material in orifice. |
| | | |
| | |c) Check air supply tube for foreign material or any |
| | |kink or restriction. Check to make sure tube has not |
| | |been loosened from mounting bracket and mislocated. |
| | |Check fittings to make sure they are tight. |
| | | |
| | |d) Check vents for restriction. All vent areas must be|
| | |open and operating in order for aerated pilot to |
| | |operate properly |
|4) Bake burner works, but BROIL burner cannot be | |a) If aerated pilot is lit and |
|turned on by thermostat. | |functioning properly, check the external BROIL select |
| | |switch mounted on the thermostat for loose |
| | |connections. Be sure the BROIL select cam is |
| | |depressing the switch push button. |
| | | |
| | |b) If the aerated pilot and the broil select switch |
| | |are functioning properly, turn the thermostat to BROIL|
| | |position and connect jumper across the flame switch |
| | |terminals. |
| | | |
| | |c) If the broiler comes on at this point, the flame |
| | |switch is defective and must be replaced. |
| | | |
| | |d) If the above action does not correct the problem, |
| | |then, using another jumper, connect terminals. Leave |
| | |jumper connected across broil burner flame switch |
| | |terminals. If the broil burner comes on, remove jumper|
| | |from across flame switch terminals. If burner stays |
| | |on, flame switch is functioning. Replace the BROIL |
| | |select and bracket assembly. |
| | | |
| | |e) If the above action does not correct the problem, |
| | |connect 11 5V line to the solenoid valve which will |
| | |click open. |
|5) Solenoid valve chatters when cycling at a set |a) When the solenoid valve clicks "on and off" several|a) This condition is caused by a faulty switch located|
|temperature. |times within a second at the beginning of every cycle,|inside the thermostat. The thermostat must be |
| |the valve IS NOT at fault. |replaced. |
| | | |
|6) Solenoid valve hums when energized. | |a) Cycle the valve several times by turning the |
| | |thermostat on and off. If buzzing continues after |
| | |cycling, the valve must be replaced. |
|7) Solenoid valve leaks | |a) First, check for proper tubing connections and, if |
| | |necessary, tighten fittings. If valve continues to |
| | |leak, replace valve and fittings. |
|8) Solenoid clicks when going ON and OFF. |a) It must be understood that an | |
| |intermittent clicking sound is | |
| |normal for a solenoid type control | |
| |system. It indicates that the | |
| |system is operating properly. | |
|9) Electric thermostat is out of calibration. | |a) Starting from the "OFF" position, set thermostat |
| | |dial to 350°F marking. Using a thermometer or |
| | |temperature indicating device, note actual oven |
| | |temperature after allowing sufficient time for oven to|
| | |reach set temperature. If the actual average |
| | |temperature differs more than ± 10° from the dial |
| | |setting, the thermostat should be recalibrated. |
| | | |
| | |b) Keep thermostat set at 350°F and carefully remove |
| | |dial so as not to change position of shaft. Hold |
| | |shaft steady and insert screwdriver down center of |
| | |shaft. |
| | |Turn screws COUNTER CLOCKWISE |
| | |to INCREASE oven temperature. |
| | |turn screws CLOCKWISE to |
| | |DECREASE oven temperature. Eachdegree of rotation on |
| | |the calibrationscrew is approximately one |
| | |degreechange. |
|10) Upper oven broil burner pilot goes out. | |a) Check adjusting screw to see if it is open enough |
| | |to provide maximum flame. This applies to upper broil |
| | |I pilot only. |
| | | |
| | |b) Check air supply tube for proper location |
| | |approximately 1/2" to 5/8" from the oven burner box |
| | |bottom. |
| | | |
| | |c) Check air supply for restrictions. |
| | | |
| | |d) Check for proper size pilot orifice. (.010 for |
| | |natural gas; .005 for LP gas) |
| | | |
| | |e) Check to make sure proper oven bake burner is not |
| | |over gassed. |
|11) Oven will not turn ON manually. |a) Clock not set for manual operation. | |
| | | |
| |b) Pilot light out. | |
| | | |
| |c) Defective flame switch. | |
| | | |
| |d) Defective thermostat. | |
| | | |
| |e) Defective solenoid valve. | |
| | | |
| |f) Electric power off. | |
| | | |
| |f) Check oven for restriction in venting passages. | |
|12) Oven sweats or window fogs up. |a) Oven not preheated for minute with door open to | |
| |dispel natural humidity. | |
| | | |
| |b) Oven door opened while baking. | |
| | | |
| |c) Water vapor may be coming from food being baked if | |
| |high water content. | |
GAS OVENS
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1) Pilot or oven burner flame goes out. |a) Burner overgassed causing pilot light to go out. |a) Adjust gas orifice to burner. |
| | | |
| |b) Oven burner flame playing directly on pilot tip. | |
| | |b) Adjust pilot tip to about 3/8” below oven burner |
| |c) Loose connection in pilot supply |port. |
| | | |
| |d) Pilot flame out of adjustment. |c) Tighten connection I line. |
| | | |
| |e) Defective thermostat. |d) Adjust |
| | | |
| |f) Defective automatic oven gas control. |e) Replace thermostat |
| | | |
| | |f) Replace automatic oven gas control |
|2) Oven too hot |a) Standby pilot set too high |a) Adjust so yellow tip is removed |
| | | |
| |b) Burner overgassed |b) Cut down on orifice |
| | | |
| |c) Heat control out of calibration |c) Recalibrate heat control |
| | | |
| |d) Thermostatic valve dirty |d) Clean thermostatic valve |
| | | |
| |e) Heat control sensing bulb |e) Replace heat control sensing bulb |
| |broken or leaking | |
|3) Baking takes too long |a) Oven not preheated properly |a) Explain to user that oven should |
| | |be preheated 8 to 10 minutes |
| | | |
| |b) Burner undergassed causing excessive preheat time |b) Adjust orifice |
| | | |
| |c) Heat control out of calibration | |
| | |c) Recalibrate heat control |
| | | |
|4) Oven burner flashes and burns in venturi |a) Air shutter open too wide |a) Adjust air shutter |
|5) Cakes burn on bottom or uneven baking |a) Improper pan; sides too high |a) Explain to user. Thin aluminum or other bright pan |
| | |is best to use. |
|6) Oven will not turn on manually |a) Pilot light out |a) See Pilot Adjustment |
| | | |
| |b) Dirty or defective pilot control valve |b) Clean & check. Replace if defective. |
| | | |
| |c) Dirty or defective thermostat valve |c) Clean &check. Replace if defective. |
|7) Oven sweats or window fogs up. |a) Oven not preheated for minute with door open to |a) Explain to user |
| |dispel natural humidity. | |
| | | |
| |b) Oven door opened too much while baking | |
| | |b) Explain to user. |
|8) Hot oven door or handle |a) May not be a defect |a) Check. Explain to user that normal allowable oven |
| | |door temperature is well above room temperature. |
| | |b) Check door for alignment. Check seal and replace if|
| | |necessary. |
| |b) Broiler door not properly closed or not sealing at | |
| |the top. | |
|9) Rotisserie won't operate |a) Fuse burned out or not plugged in. |a) Check. Replace if burned out. |
| | | |
| |b) Loose wiring connection |b) Tighten wiring connection |
| | | |
| |c) Defective switch |c) Check and replace if defective |
| | | |
| |d) Motor burned out | |
| | |d) Check and replace if motor burned out |
|10) Oven door not sealing properly |a) Door warped or bent through mishandling |a) Straighten as explained in Service Section |
|11) Oven door rubs at bottom |a) Door slightly out of alignment |a) Realign as explained in Service Section |
|12) Oven shocks when touched |a) Oven not grounded properly |a) Check and make sure grounded |
| | | |
| |b) Insulated, worn, or burned off wire |b) Check and replace if defective wire |
| | | |
| |c) Electrical component defective |c) Check and replace if defective |
|13) Flame floats away from burner |a) Orifice not pointing directly into burner throat |a) Remove burner and align orifice |
| | | |
| |b) Open air shutter | |
| | |b) Close air shutter |
| | | |
ELECTRIC RANGE
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1) Surface element will not heat |a) Element bad |a) Check electrical connection |
| | | |
| |b) If plug-in type, could be bad plug-in block |b) Replace plug-in block |
| | | |
| |c) Loose wire connection or selector switch bad | |
| | |c) Replace selector switch |
| |d) Power off | |
| | | |
| | |d) |
|2) Bake/broil element will not heat |a) Elements bad not heat |a) Replace elements |
| | | |
| |b) Loose wire connection |b) Check electrical connections |
| | | |
| |c) Thermostat stuck in cut-out position | |
| | |c) Adjust or replace selector switch |
| |d) Selector switch bad | |
| | | |
| |e) Power off |d) Check & replace if defective |
| | | |
| | |e) |
|3) Oven too hot/cold |a) Thermostat probe against side of unit |a) Suspend probe |
| | | |
| |b) Thermostat out of adjustment | |
| | |b) Calibrate thermostat or replace |
| |c) Thermostat bad | |
| | |c) Check thermostat & replace if defective |
|4) Automatic oven timer will not work |a) Bad timer motor |a) Replace timer motor |
| | | |
| |b) Stuck contact points |b) Unstick & clean contact points |
|5) Will not self-clean |a) Door latch switch |a) Check electrical connections. |
| | |Replace door latch switch if defective |
| | | |
| | |b) Self-cleaning sensor |
| |b) Self-cleaning sensor | |
DISHWASHER
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1 ) Dishwasher will not run at all |a) Blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker |a) Replace fuse or reset breaker. |
| | | |
| |b) No power to dishwasher. | |
| | |b) Check for power to outlet or box to service. |
| | | |
| |c) Inoperative timer. |c) Check out timer. If faulty, replace. |
| | | |
| | |d) Check out motor for operation. Spin motor to free |
| |d) Inoperative motor. |if stuck. |
| | | |
| |e) Inoperative door latch switch. |e) Check door adjustment and continuity through |
| | |switch. Repair. |
| | | |
| |f) Timer switch or relay not energized. |f) Try switch or relay for action. Replace if |
| | |defective. |
| |g) Open circuit in wiring harness. | |
| | |g) Check wiring. Insure all terminals are correct. |
| | |Check for and correct any loose heads. |
|2) Dishwasher blows fuse or trips breaker. |a) Short circuit or ground in control wiring |a) Check wiring at service connection at dishwasher. |
| | | |
| |b) Motor overloaded. |b) Check for blockage or jamming of pump impeller. |
| | | |
| | |c) Replace. |
| |c) Grounded motor. | |
| | |d) Inspect circuit and take proper action |
| |d) Short circuit in wiring to dishwasher. | |
| | |e) Recommend 15 amp breaker. |
| |e) Fuse or breaker too small. | |
| | |f) Check. If necessary, run separate circuit to |
| |f) Other appliances on circuit may overload line. |dishwasher. |
|3) Dishes not drying. |a) Improper loading. |a) Instruct user to not overload dishes. This |
| | |prevents proper air circulation. |
| | | |
| | |b) Water in dishwasher should be 140F to 160F. Adjust |
| |b) Low water temperature. |water heater. |
| | | |
| | |c) Check timer and taken proper action |
| | | |
| |c) Timer contacts not closing during heat cycle | |
| | |d) Check element and replace if burned out. Check |
| | |wiring to element and terminals. |
| |d) Inoperative heating element. | |
| | |e) See "Water Does Not Drain Out" problem. |
| | | |
| | |f) Instruct user to wait until end of cycle. |
| |e) Incomplete drain out. | |
| | |g) Instruct user to not allow dishes to sit in |
| | |dishwasher too long. |
| |f) Impatient user. | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |g) Dishes set in dishwasher too long | |
|4) Dishwasher leaks. |a) Loose plumbing connection. |a) Check all connections and hoses. Tighten or repair.|
| | | |
| | |b) Insure water level is up to heating element. Insure|
| |b) Water level high. |proper action of float switch. Insure utensils are not|
| | |holding float switch down. |
| | | |
| | |c) Replace seal assembly if necessary. Inspect pump |
| | |housing for cracks. Repair or replace. |
| |c) Pump leakage. | |
| | |d) Check fill tube for misalignment, burrs, or hard |
| | |water deposits. |
| | | |
| |d) Fill tube overspray or splash. |e) Check gasket around air gap. Check mounting screw. |
| | | |
| | |f) Thoroughly check hoses and clamps. Repair or |
| |e) Water inlet air gap. |replace. |
| | | |
| | |g) Improper detergent or too much detergent in a soft |
| |f) Split hose or loose hose clamps. |water area. |
| | | |
| | |h) Level dishwasher. |
| |g) Excessive foaming. | |
| | |i) Reposition pump on gasket. |
| | |Tighten mechanical connectors. |
| |h) Improper installation. | |
| | |j) Readjust mounting screws or mechanical connections |
| |i) Pump loose or not properly sealed. |and gasket. Remove assembly and clean gasket and rim. |
| | |Replace. |
| | | |
| |j) Poor seal between pump and tub. |k) Repair with epoxy patch kit. Replace if necessary. |
| | | |
| | |1) Tighten nuts. Replace seal washers. |
| | | |
| | |m) Check and correct if a problem. |
| |k) Tub leaks, rusted. | |
| | |n) Check for proper operation. |
| | | |
| |l) Heating element fasteners. | |
| | | |
| |m) Mispositioned vent gasket or baffle. | |
| | | |
| |n) Worn or damaged door gasket | |
|4) Dishwasher leaks (Continued) |p) Drain valve leaks. |p) Check drain ring for damage or foreign matter. |
| | |Clean and/or replace. |
| | | |
| | |q) Clean line of foreign matter from plug. Clean |
| |q) Drain valve sticks open. |inside of drain line opening. |
| | | |
| | |r) Confirm and replace. |
| | | |
| |r) Inoperative drain solenoid. |s) Replace bearing. |
| | | |
| |s) Broken distributor arm bearing. |t) Reinstall seal or replace. |
| | | |
| |t) Distributor arm seal out of position. | |
| | |u) Dishwasher pushed into too small of an opening or |
| |u) Distorted tub or tank |one which is out of "square". Modify opening. |
|5) Little or no water I enters dishwasher. |a) Water supply shut off. |a) Open valves. |
| | | |
| |b) Faulty connection or open circuit in wiring. |b) Check for power to solenoid, ohm. Check wiring. |
| | | |
| |c) Timer not operating. |c) Check timer. Replace if faulty. |
| | | |
| |d) Solenoid or fill valve not operating. |d) Check leads and operation. Rebuild if faulty. |
| | | |
| |e) Water supply restricted. |e) Check for kinks and foreign material in line. Also |
| | |check for clogged strainer at inlet valve. |
| | | |
| | |f) Confirm. Take necessary |
| |f) Excessive water pressure. |action. |
| | | |
| | |g) Confirm. Replace if faulty. |
| |g) Confirm. Replace if faulty. | |
| | |h) Check and if necessary install correct washer. |
| |h) Defective or wrong size of flow washer. | |
|6) Too much water in dishwasher. |a) Timer stuck. |a) Check timer and timer motor. |
| | |Replace if necessary. |
| |b) Inoperative drain valve | |
| | |b) Check and repair. |
| |c) Pressure switch faulty. | |
| | |c) Check and replace if faulty. |
| | | |
| |d) Obstruction in pump. |d) Check and clean. |
| | | |
| |e) Inlet valve diaphragm hung up. |e) Check and clean surface. |
| | | |
| |f) Malfunction of fill valve. |f) Check solenoid continuity, timer |
| | |function or foreign material atplunger. Rebuild or |
| | |replace. |
| | | |
| |g) Incorrect flow washer. |g) Check and install correct washer. |
| | | |
| |h) Incomplete drainout. |h) See Below |
|7) Water does not drain out or only partially drains. |a) Blocked or inoperative pump. |a) Clean obstruction. Replace pump if bad. |
| | | |
| | |b) Check timer switching. (Pump should run clockwise |
| |b) Motor is not reversing |during pumpout.) If timer is faulty, replace. |
| | | |
| | |c) Straighten out. Clean or replace. |
| | | |
| | | |
| |c) Kinked drain line or partially | |
| |blocked disposal connection. Hose |d) Check drain valve or solenoid. Repair or replace. |
| |may not be long enough. | |
| | |e) Check timer. Replace if faulty. |
| |d) Inoperative drain valve. | |
| | |f) Clean or replace screen. |
| | | |
| |e) Faulty timer operation. |g) Check and repair. |
| | | |
| |f) Clogged drain screen. | |
| | |h) Rebuild or replace pump. |
| |g) Faulty connection or broken | |
| |wire. | |
| | | |
| |h) Broken impeller in pump. | |
|8) Dishwasher stops during cycle or does not make |a) Open circuit. |a) Check for power. |
|complete cycle | | |
| |b) No power to inoperative components. |b) Check for power leading to |
| | |components. |
| |c) Timer operating erratically or improperly. | |
| | |c) Check timer and timer motor operation against |
| | |sequence chart on wiring diagram. Replace if faulty. |
| |d) Loose or faulty leads. | |
| | |d) Repair or replace. |
| |e) Inoperative motor overload. | |
| | |e) Check and correct problem. |
| |f) Door switch opening circuit. | |
| | |f) Adjust switch. Replace if defective. |
| | | |
| |g) Defective components. |g) Check operation of affected components. Repair or |
| | |replace. |
|9) Dishwasher runs with controls in "OFF"position. |a) Timer contacts stuck. |a) Check timer and replace if defective. |
| | | |
| | |b) Check circuit and take necessary action. |
| |b) Timer shortcircuited | |
|10) Motor does not run. |a) Faulty wiring in pump |a) Check wiring to timer. |
| | | |
| |b) Defective starting capacitor or relay. |b) Check and replace if necessary. |
| | | |
| |c) Faulty timer. | |
| | |c) Check and replace if faulty. |
| |d) Defective motor. | |
| | |d) Check and replace if necessary |
|11) Motor going out on overload. |a) Open start winding |a) Check winding continuity. Replace motor if faulty. |
| | | |
| | |b) Install new relay. |
| |b) Defective relay. | |
| | | |
| | |c) Check rotation of motor manually. A certain amount |
| |c) Tight motor bearing. |of resistance should be felt because of spring loaded |
| | |seal. |
| | | |
| | |d) Check for obstructions in pump. |
| | | |
| |d) Locked rotor. |e) Clean motor. |
| | | |
| |e) Motor vents clogged with dust. |f) OHM check terminals to motor housing. |
| | | |
| |f) Grounded wiring. |g) Check for correct voltage to motor. |
| | | |
| | | |
| |g) Low voltage. | |
|12) Detergent left in second dispenser cup. |a) Detergent left to stand in dispenser cup too long. |a) Instruct user to insert detergent just prior to |
| | |washing. |
| |b) Dispenser cup wet when detergent added. | |
| | |b) Be sure cups are dry before adding detergent. |
| |c) Water spray action obstructed. | |
| | |c) Load dishwasher properly. |
| |d) Utensils obstructing dispenser. Racks in backwards.| |
| | |d) Load dishwasher properly. |
| |e) Low water level in tub. |Install racks correctly. |
| | | |
| | |e) Correct problem. Adjust floa switch. Confirm |
| | |adequate water supply. |
| |f) Cover does not open. | |
| | |f) Inspect bi-metal or solenoid. Adjust, repair or |
| | |replace. Lubricate moving parts with silicone spray. |
|13) Door hard to close. |a) Door gasket binding. |a) Inspect for proper installation. |
| | | |
| |b) Strike. |b) Adjust. |
| | | |
| |c) Door hinges |c) Adjust. |
|14) Dishwasher drains continually or water does not |a) Drain valve stuck open. |a) Inspect, clean or replace. |
|remain in tub. | | |
| |b) Drain solenoid spring broken. |b) Replace if broken |
| | | |
| |c) Faulty timer. |c) Check timer. |
| | | |
| |d) Rubber seal in drain valve. |d) Inspect and/or replace. |
|15) Timer will not advance. |a) Timer motor faulty. |a) Check timer motor. Replace if necessary. |
| | | |
| | |b) Check and replace if necessary. |
| |b) Defective heater. | |
| | |c) Check and replace if faulty. |
| | | |
| |c) Defective timer, mechanically jammed. | |
|16) Dishwasher noisy. |a) Water pulsating noise. |a) Some noise is normal. There will be less noise with|
| | |a full load. |
| | | |
| |b) Vibration noise. |b) Insure dishwasher is securely I and evenly mounted |
| | |and level. |
| | | |
| |c) Motor screws not light. |c) Tighten screws and/or connectors. |
| | | |
| | |d) Check inlet valve. Armature should slide freely. |
| |d) Solenoid hums. |Repair, clean or replace. |
| | | |
| | |e) Check inlet valve diaphragm. |
| |e) Chattering noise. | |
| | |f) Remove and check pump and blade. Replace blade if |
| | |broken, bent or unbalanced. |
| |f) Foreign object in pump or impeller. | |
| | |g) Check clearances and tighten hub nut. |
| | | |
| |g) Spray arm hitting. |h) Inspect tub. |
| | | |
| | |I) Check and tighten parts. |
| |h) Foreign matter in tub. | |
| | |j) Correct problem. |
| |i) Loose parts. | |
| | |k) Instruct user. |
| |j) Low water level. | |
| | | |
| |k) Dishwasher improperly loaded. | |
|17) Dishes not cleaning properly |a) Hard water. |a) It may be necessary to increase the amount of |
| | |detergent used in a hard water area. |
| | | |
| | |b) Correct level. |
| |b) Improper water level. | |
| | |c) Instruct user. |
| |c) Improper loading. | |
| | |d) Refit filter screen. Wash out thoroughly. |
| |d) Loose or dirty filter screen. | |
| | |e) Advise user to change amounts or brands. |
| | | |
| |e) Improper use of detergent. |f) Could be caused by hard water. Try changing brands |
| | |and increasing amounts. |
| | | |
| |f) Water spots on glassware. |g) Adjust water heater. |
| | | |
| | |h) Clean plates adequately prior to placing in |
| | |dishwasher. Increase detergent. |
| |g) Water not hot enough. | |
| | |i) Decrease amount of detergent. |
| |h) Food film. | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |i) Soft water | |
GARBAGE DISPOSALS
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1) Overload protector trips. |a) Unit is jammed. |a) Remove material causing jam overload. On SLD50, |
| | |SMD50 and SMD80 series, allow time for automatic |
| | |restart. |
| | | |
| | |b) Replace start relay. |
| |b) Motor stays in start winding. | |
| | |c) Check voltage. |
| |c) Low voltage. | |
| | |d) Replace stator assembly. |
| |d) Shortened or open windings. | |
| | |e) Replace relay. |
| |e) Defective relay. | |
|2) Leaks around sink flange. |a) Loose mounting screws. |a) Tighten. |
| | | |
| |b) Insufficient putty. |b) Reputty. |
| | | |
|3) Leaks at tail pipe gasket. |a) Loose flange. |a) Tighten. |
| | | |
| |b) Improperly installed gasket. |b) Replace properly. |
|4) Leaks between chamber and sink flange. |a) Loose mounting. |a) Tighten |
| | | |
| |b) Defective gasket. |b) Replace |
|5) Abnormal noise or vibration |a) Undisposable matter in chamber |a) Clean out. |
| | | |
| |b) Flange gasket or tail pipe gasket |b) Replace improperly placed. |
| | | |
| |c) Mounting screws loose. |c) Tighten screws. |
| | | |
| | | |
|6) Erratic operation. |a) Loose wiring, switch, or motor power connection. |a) Locate and reconnect. |
| | | |
| |b) Worn stopper. | |
| | |b) Replace stopper. |
| | | |
|7) Slow grinding. |a) Undisposable matter. |a) Remove |
| | | |
| |b) Damaged impeller. |b) Replace |
| | | |
| |c) Insufficient water flow. |c) Needs a minimum of 1 ½ G.P.M. |
| | | |
| | |d) Replace grinding chamber. |
| |d) Worn or broken tab on shredder | |
|8) Slow flow |a) Partially clogged drain. This would also show with |a) Advise resident onuse. |
| |water off when not grinding. | |
| | | |
| |b) Clogged shredder teeth (usually due to insufficient| |
| |water flow). |b) Remove material from chamber and clean shredder |
| | |ring. |
|9) Jammed |a) Something stuck between impeller and shredder. |a) Physically move impeller with unjamming device |
| | |until free. |
| | | |
|10) Will not stop. |a) Defective switch. |a) Replace |
| | | |
| |b) Short in wiring. |b) Clear short and insulate. |
| | | |
| |c) Incorrect wiring. |c) Reconnect properly. |
|11) Will not run. |a) Overload protector has tripped |a) Wait for motor to cool off and reset manually. |
| | |SLD50, SMD50 and SMD80 series will reset |
| | |automatically. |
| | | |
| |b) Blown fuse in power supply. |b) Replace |
| | | |
| |c) Defective switch. |c) Replace |
| | | |
| |d) Burned out motor winding. |d) Replace disposal. |
| | | |
| | |e) Repair or replace. |
| |e) Open or shorted wiring. | |
| | |f) Replace relay. |
| |f) Defective relay. | |
REFRIGERATOR
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1) Unit will not run |a) Blown fuse |a) Replace fuse |
| | | |
| |b) Low Voltage |b) Check outlet with volt meter which should check 11 |
| | |5V plus or minus 10%. If circuit is overloaded, either|
| | |reduce load or have electrician install separate |
| | |circuit. If unable to remedy in any other way, install|
| | |auto-transformer. |
| | | |
| | |c) Jumper across terminals of control. If unit runs & |
| | |connections are all tight, replace control. |
| |c) Broken motor or temperature Control | |
| | |d) Check relay. Replace if necessary. |
| | | |
| |d) Broken relay |e) Check overload. Replace if necessary. |
| | | |
| | |f) Check compressor. Replace if necessary. |
| |e) Broken overload | |
| | |g) Check with test light at unit. If no circuit and |
| | |current is indicated at outlet, replace or repair. |
| |f) Broken compressor | |
| | |h) Repair or replace broken leads. |
| | | |
| |g) Defective service cord | |
| | |i) Check with test light & replace if necessary. |
| | | |
| | | |
| |h) Broken lead to compressors, | |
| |timer or cold control. | |
| | | |
| |i) Broken timer | |
|2) Refrigerator section too warm |a) Repeated door openings |a) Instruct user |
| | | |
| |b) Overloading of shelves blocking normal air |b) Instruct user |
| |circulation in cabinet | |
| | | |
| |c) Warm or hot foods in cabinet |c) Instruct user to allow foods |
| | |to cool to room temperature |
| | |before placing in cabinet |
| | | |
| |d) Poor door seal. |d) Level cabinet. Adjust door seal. |
| | | |
| |e). Interior light stays on. |e) Check light switch. If faulty, |
| | |replace. |
| | | |
| |f) Refrigerator section airflow |f) Turn control knob to colder position. Check airflow|
| |control. |control. |
| | | |
| | |Remove grille & check to see if damper is opening. |
| | |When door is open, damper should open. If control is |
| | |inoperative, replace control. |
| | | |
| | |g) Turn knob to colder position |
| | | |
| |g) Cold control knob set at too warm a position not | |
| |allowing unit to operate often enough. | |
| | |h) Reposition grille |
| |h) Freezer section grille not positioned properly. | |
| | | |
| |i) Freezer fan not running properly. |i) Replace fan, fan switch, or defective wiring. |
| | | |
| | |j) Replace motor compressor |
| |j) Defective intake valve | |
| | |k) Check & reseal or put in correct position |
| |k) Air duct seal not properly Sealed or positioned | |
|3) Refrigerator section too cold |a) Refrigerator section airflow |a) Turn control knob to warmer position |
| |control knob turned to coldest position | |
| | | |
| |b) Airflow control remains open |b) Remove obstruction |
| | | |
| |c) Broken airflow control |c) Replace control |
| | | |
| |d) Broken airflow heater |d) Replace heater |
|4) Freezer section and refrigerator section too warm |a) Fan motor not running |a) Check & replace fan motor if necessary |
| | | |
| | |b) Check & replace if necessary |
| |b) Cold control set too warm or broken | |
| | | |
| |c) Finned evaporator blocked with ice |c) Check defrost heater thermostat or timer |
| | | |
| |d) Shortage of refrigerant |d) Check for leak, repair, evacuate & recharge system |
| | | |
| | |e) Relocate cabinet or provide clearances to allow |
| |e) Not enough air circulation around cabinet |sufficient circulation |
| | | |
| | |f) Clean the condenser & the ducts |
| |f) Dirty condenser or obstructed condenser ducts | |
| | | |
| |g) Too many door openings |g) Instruct user |
|5) Freezer section too cold |a) Cold control knob improperly set |a) Turn knob to warmer position |
| | | |
| |b) Cold control capillary not properly clamped to |b) Tighten clamp or reposition |
| |evaporator | |
| | | |
| |c) Broken cold control |c) Check control. Replace if necessary |
|6) Unit runs all the time |a) Not enough air circulation around cabinet or air |a) Relocate cabinet or provide proper clearances |
| |circulation around cabinet or air circulation |around cabinet. Remove restriction. |
| | | |
| |b) Poor door seal |b) Check & make necessary adjustments. |
| | | |
| | |c) Explain to customer that heavy loading causes long |
| |c) Freezing large quantities of ice cubes or heavy |running time. |
| |loading after shopping. | |
| | | |
| |d) Refrigerant charge |d) Undercharge or overcharge. Check, evacuate & |
| | |recharge with proper charge. |
| | | |
| | |e) Ventilate room as much as possible. |
| |e) Room temperature too warm. | |
| | |f) Check control. If it allows unit to operate at all |
| | |times, replace control. |
| |f) Cold control | |
| | |g) Check if light goes out. Replace if necessary. |
| | | |
| |g) Defective light switch |h) Instruct user |
| | | |
| | | |
| |h) Excessive door openings | |
|7) Noisy operation |a) Flooring not firm or is loose. |a) Brace or tighten flooring. |
| | | |
| |b) Tubing contacting cabinet or other tubing. |b) Move tubing |
| | | |
| |c) Cabinet not level. | |
| | |c) Level cabinet |
| |d) Fan hitting liner or mechanically grounding. | |
| | |d) Move fan |
| |e) Compressor mechanically grounded | |
| | | |
| | |e) Replace compressor mount. |
| 8) Unit cycles on overload |a) Low voltage |a) Check outlet with volt meter. |
| | |Underload voltage should be |
| | |115V plus or minus 10%. |
| | | |
| | |Check for several appliances on same circuit or |
| | |undersized extension cord being used. |
| | |b) Check with test cord and also for ground before |
| |b) Poor compressor |replacing. |
|9) Stuck motor compressor |a) Broken valve |a) Replace motor compressor. |
| | | |
| |b) Insufficient oil |b) Add oil. If unit still will not operate, replace |
| | |motor compressor. |
| | | |
| |c) Overheated compressor |c) If compressor faulty for any I |
| | |reason, replace motor |
| | |compressor. |
|10) Frost or ice on finned evaporator. |a) Broken timer |a) Check with test light & replace if necessary. |
| | | |
| | |b) Replace heater. |
| |b) Defective defrost heater. | |
| | |c) Replace thermostat. |
| |c) Defective thermostat. | |
|11) Ice in drip catcher. |a) Defective drip catcher heater. |a) Replace heater. |
|12) Unit runs all the time. Temperature normal. |a) Ice builds up on the evaporator |a) Check door gaskets. Replace if necessary |
| | | |
| | |b) Place control bulb in contact |
| |b) Control bulb on thermostat not in contact with |with the evaporator surface. |
| |evaporator surface. | |
|13) Freezer runs all the time. Temperature too cold. |a) Faulty thermostat. |a) Check thermostat. Test and replace if necessary. |
ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1) Water too hot. |a) Thermostat set too high. |a) Turndown thermostat |
| | | |
| |b) Thermostat faulty. |b) Replace thermostat |
| | | |
| |c) High limit faulty. |c) Replace. |
|2) Water not hot enough. |a) Thermostat set too low. |a) Turn up thermostat. |
| | | |
| |b) Thermostat too faulty. |b) Check and replace if faulty. |
| | | |
| |c) Excessive lime deposits in tank. |c) Clean out tank. |
| | | |
| |d) Incorrect heater element. |d) Replace with correct element. |
|3) Insufficient hot water. Hot water outages. |a) Line voltage too low. |a) Check and correct. |
| | | |
| |b) Thermostat low. |b) Reset. |
| | | |
| |c) One heater element defective. |c) Replace element. |
| | | |
| |d) Heater element coated with lime. |d) Clean or replace. |
| | | |
| |e) Element wired incorrectly. |e) Rewire element. |
| | | |
| |f) Incorrect element. |f) Replace with correct element. |
| | | |
| |g) Undersize heater for load. |g) Check water usage rate against tank recovery rate. |
| | |Install water saving devices. |
|4) No hot water. |a) Power supply. |a) Check wiring all the way to service entrance. |
| | | |
| | |b) Check wiring against schematic. |
| |b) Incorrect wiring. | |
| | |c) Check and replace if faulty. |
| |c) High limit switch faulty. | |
| | |d) Adjust thermostat. |
| |d) Thermostat out of calibration. | |
| | |e) Replace element. |
| |e) Heater element defective. | |
|5) Steam in hot water. |a) Grounded heater element. |a) Check heating element for ground. Replace |
| | | |
| | |b) Replace. |
| |b) Temperature relief valve faulty. | |
| | |c) Check for proper wiring against schematic. |
| |c) Thermostats improperly connected. | |
| | |d) Check contracts and operation. |
| |d) Thermostat contacts burned together. |Replace if faulty. |
| | | |
| |e) Thermostat set too high. |e) Reset. |
|6) Slow recovery between demands. |a) Top heating elements burned |a) Check element and replace if burned. |
| |out. | |
| | | |
| |b) Thermostat faculty. |b) Check thermostat and replace if faulty. |
|7) High water. |a) Leaking faucets. |a) Repair faucets. |
| | | |
| |b) Thermostat setting too high. |b) Lower setting. |
| | | |
| |c) Scale deposits on elements. |c) Clean or replace. |
| | | |
| |d) Excessively exposed hot water piping. |d) Insulate piping as practical. |
| | | |
| |e) Short to ground in heater. | |
| | |e) Check element for ground. |
| | |Replace if necessary. |
|8) Leaking tank. |a) Tank leak. |a) Replace unit. |
| | | |
| |b) Leaking at plumbing connections. |b) Repair or replace connections and/or fittings. |
| | | |
| |c) Leak at heater element. |c) Tighten element. Replace gasket and/or element. |
| | | |
| |d) Leakage at thermostat or |d) Repair or replace parts. |
| |temperature valve. | |
|9) Hot water heater constantly tripping breaker. |a) Grounded heater element out. |a) Check for ground. Repair. |
| | | |
| |b) Grounded lead wire. |b) Check all wires for ground. |
| | | |
| |c) Incorrect connections. |c) Check connections against schematic and back to |
| | |service entrance. |
| | | |
| | |d) Check breaker size. Wires should be a minimum of: |
| |d) Incorrect breaker size or incorrect wiring size. | |
| | |12-gauge wire for 3500 watt elements with 20 amp |
| | |breaker or fuse. |
| | | |
| | |1 0-gauge wire for 4500 watt elements with 30 amp |
| | |breaker. |
| | | |
| | |8-gauge wire for 5500 watt elements with a 40 amp |
| | |breaker or fuse. |
| | | |
| | |e) Install new unit. |
| | | |
| | |f) Reconnect all water lines and electrical wiring. |
| | | |
| | |g) Fill tank. When tank is full, shut off pressure |
| | |relief valve. |
| | | |
| | |h) Check for leaks at connections. |
| | | |
| | |i) Turn on power supply. |
| |
|NOTE: Almost all apartment grade hot water heaters come with a six-year warranty on tanks only. |
|When a defective tank is diagnosed, it is very important to consult installation records to avoid replacing a hot water heater that is still under warranty. |
GAS WATER HEATER
|PROBLEM |POSSIBLE CAUSE |ACTION |
|1) Pilot out. |a) Pilot goes out when main comes on. |a) Make sure gas valve is full open. |
| | |Leak limiter should be replaced. |
| | |Pressure regulator and valve body |
| | |may be defective. The pilot orifice |
| | |may be dirty. Replace. |
| |b) Pilot goes out when pilot reset lever is | |
| |released. |b) Check to see that lever goes far enough to left and|
| | |that it stands in vertical position when lighting |
| | |pilot. Lever may also have to be held for 60 to 70 |
| | |seconds. Dirt in orifice. Replace. |
|2) Erratic pilot outages. |a) Thermocoupling may be out of position. |a) Bulb should be 1/16" from tip of pilot burner |
| | |deflector. |
| |b) Latching pin wrong. | |
| | |b) Pin should be .015" from locking cap when the pilot|
| | |is off. |
| |c) Pilot burner assembly (when | |
| |above checks fail). |c) Replace |
| | | |
| |d) Wind blows into vent hood. | |
| | |d) Repair or replace damper. |
| |e) Main gas valve. | |
| | |e) Check for full open. |
| |f) Clogged or dirty pilot orifice, | |
| |clogged filter or leaks in pilot line. |f) Clean or replace. |
| | | |
| |g) Extremely high or low gas | |
| |pressure. |g) Check with Gas Company. |
| | | |
|3) No main flame. |a) Gas off. |a) Turn on gas. |
| | | |
| |b) Defective high temperature control. |b) Test control. Replace if bad. |
| | | |
| |c) Defective regulator. | |
| | |c) Check regulator. Replace if bad. |
|4) Yellow flame. |a) Air regulator, improper adjustment. |a) Adjust air vent. |
| | | |
| |b) Restricted air supply. | |
| | |b) Install additional ventilation. |
|5) Water leaking. |a) Bad gaskets or seals at thermostats. |a) Replace gasket. |
| | | |
| |b) Holes in tank | |
| | |b) Replace tank. |
HEATING/COOLING
|HEATING PROBLEMS |POSSIBLE CAUSE |WHAT TO CHECK |
|1) Indoor air flow problems |a) Blocked filter grate |a) Remove blockage from in front of grate. |
| | |b) Clean coils. |
| |b) Inside coils dirty | |
| | |c) Replace filter. |
| |c) Filter dirty | |
| | |d) Replace blower motor. |
| |d) Blower motor not working | |
|2) No heating - blower does not operate |a) Thermostat set incorrectly or faulty |a) Adjust or replace thermostat. |
| | | |
| |b) Blown fuse or tripped circuit | |
| |breaker. |b) Replace or reset protective device. |
| | | |
| |c) Defective component |c) Check for proper control and line voltage of |
| | |controls. |
|3) Insufficient heating - blower operates continually |a) Dirty air filters |a) Clean or replace filter |
| | | |
| |b) Blocked supply on return air registers. |b) Make sure registers are open and there are no |
| | |obstacles blocking off the air. |
|4) Insufficient cooling – fan and compressor running |a) Undercharged | |
| | | |
| |b) Defective thermostat | |
| | | |
| |c) Dirty filter | |
| | | |
| |d) Dirty indoor/outdoor coils | |
| | | |
| |e) Overcharged | |
|5) Compressor not starting – indoor fan running |a) Tripped breaker/blown fuse | |
| | | |
| |b) Bad contactor | |
| | | |
| |c) Broken wire | |
| | | |
| |d) Bad compressor capacitor | |
| | | |
| |e) Defective thermostat | |
| | | |
| |f) Condensate drain stopped up | |
|6) Outdoor fan will not start |a) Bad fan capacitor | |
| | | |
| |b) Bad condenser fan motor | |
| | | |
| |c) Loose or broken wire | |
|7) Indoor fan motor will not start |a) Bad fan relay | |
| | | |
| |b) Defective thermostat | |
| | | |
| |c) Bad fan capacitor | |
| | | |
| |d) Bad evaporator fan motor | |
|8) Unit icing up |a) Dirty filter | |
| | | |
| |b) Dirty evaporator coil | |
| | | |
| |c) Insufficient air flow (vents closed) | |
| | | |
| |d) Evaporator fan motor not running | |
| | | |
| |e) Undercharged | |
|9) High head pressure |a) Defective compressor | |
| | | |
| |b) Bad condenser fan motor | |
| | | |
| |c) Dirty filter | |
| | | |
| |d) Dirty indoor/outdoor coils | |
| | | |
| |e) Overcharged | |
| | | |
| |f) Non-condensables in system | |
| | | |
| |g) Defective evaporator fan motor | |
|10) High suction pressure |a) Overcharged | |
| | | |
| |b) Defective compressor | |
| | | |
| |c) High heat load | |
|11) Low head pressure |a) Undercharged | |
| | | |
| |b) Defective compressor | |
| | | |
| |c) Cool outdoor temperature | |
|12) Low suction pressure |a) Dirty filter | |
| | | |
| |b) Restriction in system | |
| | | |
| |c) Dirty evaporator/condenser coil | |
| | | |
| |d) Undercharged | |
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