April 13 2014 #4 SUPERSUNDAY WHPC - Woodbrook Hunt Pony Club



April 13 2014 #4 SUPERSUNDAY WHPCBandaging & LongeingOverviewBandaging and LongeingObjectivesUR – D2: Safely leading and turning, stopping. Introduction to bandaging/applying polowraps. Introduction to longeing.D3 – Applying polowraps, correctly jogging mount in hand, leading safely from both sides of horse, discuss longeing equipment and use. Intro to longeing and bandaging. Discuss reasons for bandaging, when and what types are used.C1 – Apply bandages; including stable bandage. Discuss longeing, longeing equipment. Safely jogging mount in hand.C2 – Longeing at walk and trot in both directions. Correct use of equipment, body position, posture and voice. Shipping and stable bandage applications. Discuss effects of poor bandaging.C3 – Longeing – proper fit and use of equipment, including bridle or cavesson, saddle or surcingle. Safe techniques and proper use of aids at the walk, trot and canter. Discuss use of side reins. Independently apply a shipping and a stable bandage. Discuss purposes and dangers involved with shipping and stable bandages. B – Discuss and proper application of shipping and stable bandages. Discuss sweat, poultice, pressure, spider, figure eight, knee, hock, hoof abscess, heel grab, cold water, and ice. Discuss values and dangers. Longeing/training: discuss proper fit and use of equipment, techniques, safety and performance of horse.ActivitiesDiscuss bandaging materials and technique, and longeing equipment and use.Live application of bandages/polowraps (based on certification) If time, longeing (based on certification).Discussion/DefinitionsPolowraps/polo bandages: Made of fleecy material, are soft and fuzzy on both sides and come in many colors. They are stretchy and usually 9 feet long and 5 inches wide, though pony size may be smaller. Polo wraps are used for warmth and to give some protection to a horse’s legs during riding, longeing, and sometimes turnout. To apply: Start by holding the end of the bandage on the outside of the leg, at the idle of the cannon bone. Wrap the bandage counterclockwise on the left legs and clockwise on the right legs. Pull the bandage firmly against the front of the leg, not the back, so you are pulling on the front of the cannon bone instead of against the tendons. Keep the bandage smooth and the pressure even to reduce the risk of causing a pressure injury to the tendon.2. Shipping bandages purpose is for protection against bumps and scrapes when traveling. A shipping bandage protects the lower leg, coronary band, and the heels during travel, in case a horse steps on his own feet or strikes his legs against the trailer. For shipping bandages the cotton should reach from the ground to 1 inch above the bottom of the hock or knee joint. It must be well padded, firm, and snug, but never excessively tight (you should be able to slip two fingers under the bandage). Shipping bandages must be fastened securely, as they can trip a horse if they are applied too loosely and slip down. They must be fastened on the outside of the leg so that the horse cannot pull the fastening loose if he should strike the inside of the leg with his opposite hoof.To apply: 1. With padding touching the ground, wrap it smoothly around the leg. Start the edge of the leg pad next to the cannon bone on the outside of the leg. Wrap from front to back and outside to inside. Start the bandage on the outside, near the middle of the cannon bone. Tuck the end under the edge of the pad, and wrap once around the leg to anchor the bandage. Always wrap the bandage in the same direction as the leg pad. This makes the inside of the bandage smoother and avoids creating a ridge that can press against the tendon. Wrap downward, overlapping each wrap about one-third to ? the width of the bandage, keeping the wraps parallel to the ground. Pull the bandage snug by pulling backward against the cannon bone rather than pulling forward against the tendons. Make the bandage firm enough to compress the padding evenly, but not so tight that you cannot get a finger underneath. Make several turns around the bulbs of the heel and coronary band. At least half the width of the bandage must go under the heel to keep the bandage from sliding up. At least ? inch of padding should extend below the bottom edge of the bandage, to keep it from binding. Bandage back up the leg to just below the knee or hock. Leave at least ? inch of padding above the bandage, and be sure that it does not bind at the knee or hock. Continue bandaging back down the leg.Finish the bandage on the outside of the leg in the cannon area, not over a tendon or joint (You can fold the end of the bandage underneath itself for a few inches if necessary). Fasten with crossed bandage pins on the outside of the leg. Apply strips of masking tape in a spiral, not a circle, around the leg.Stable bandages: Used for the protection in the stable, to prevent “filling,” or swelling, of the legs after hard work, for warmth, and sometimes to treat injuries or cover a wound dressing. Wen applying stable bandages, always bandage the legs in pairs; either both front legs, both hind legs, or all 4. If 1 leg is bandaged and the other is not, the unbandaged leg may be stressed and may swell. Stable bandages must be removed and reset at least every twelve hours.A stable bandage is put on like a shipping bandage, but it ends just below the fetlock joint. I must be snug enough to compress the padding around the tendons and other structures of the leg. The pressure must be evenly distributed over the entire bandage, and not too tight (you should be able to slip two fingers inside the finished bandage). The bandage must be run in the same direction as the leg pad. Important points for safe bandaging:Don’t sit or kneel when bandaging. Bend or squat so you can keep your balance and get out of the way if the horse should move.Clean the legs before bandaging, and make sure there is nothing that could irritate the leg or cause pressure.Make sure there is sufficient padding under the whole bandage and there are no lumps, folds or wrinkles.Wrap snugly but not too tightly. You should be able to slip two fingers under the finished bandage.A bandage must not bind at the knee, hock or fetlock joint. The padding must extend at least 1/ inch beyond the top and bottom edges of the bandages, to keep the edge of the bandage from binding.A finished bandage should feel firm and even over its whole length. No part of the bandage should be looser or tighter, and no wrap or fastener should make an indentation in the bandage.A bandage must be wrapped in the same direction as the leg pad. This makes it smooth instead of creating a lump or ridge that could press against the tendons and cause cording, or damage. MaterialsBandages or wraps are usually 4-5 inches wide and from 10-15 feet long, and made of washable material. If made from a material with some stretch, they conform to the shape of the leg more easily.Types of bandages:Flannel: easy to launder and mend, but do not stretch and may be bulkyKnit (track bandages): Most come with Velcro fasteners. Most come too short and narrow for shipping bandages; two sewn together end-to-end make one bandage the right length for shipping.Other: elastic, crepe, conforming gauze, and others. Often used for special purposes such as treatment or exercise. Do not use them without assistance of instructor or Veterinarian. Leg pads: A bandage must always be applied over a leg pad. The padding distributes the pressure evenly. The padding must be soft, smooth and thick enough to distribute pressure evenly without binding or causing too much pressure on a tendon, joint or bony prominence. The size and thickness of the padding depends on the type of bandage and the size of the horse’s leg.Sheet cottons are preferred for use in pony club. A single leg pad is made by putting together 6 to 10 sheets of cotton, folded lengthwise. Sheet cottons can be covered with cheesecloth to make them last longer. They are not washable and should be discarded when they become soiled or lumpy.Fasteners: The end of a bandage must be securely fastened so that it cannot come loose and trip the horse. Fasteners must be placed on the outside of the leg so that they cannot be pulled loose if struck by the opposite foot. They should be placed in the cannon area, never over a joint or the back of a tendon. 2 Bandage pins (large safety pins) per leg need to be used. The pins are fastened through several layers of bandage and may be crossed. Fasteners such as safety pins or Velcro fasteners may be reinforced with masking tape. This should be applied in a spiral, not in a continuous band.Other ResourcesThe United States Pony Club Manual of Horsemanship D level, C level, B and Up. ................
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