For a Delicious Cake, Turn It Upside Down

[Pages:3]For a Delicious Cake, Turn It Upside Down

Buttermilk makes a tender cake crumb; caramel and fruit make it tangy-sweet

BY MARGERY K. FRIEDMAN

When most people think of upside-down cake, the standard version comes to mind: tons of melted butter and brown sugar and, most likely, canned pineapple rings. I was raised on the stuff, and the memories are sweet. Recently, though, I craved something a little lighter than that childhood treat. I envisioned perfectly caramelized fresh fruit atop a slice of tender buttermilk cake. I experi-

mented with different fruits and sugar mixtures, and my fantasy came true.

BUTTERMILK ADDS A SUBTLE TANG I love using buttermilk in cakes--the subtle tang and tender crumb are so appealing. The secret lies in buttermilk's acid, which tenderizes flour's gluten. Using nonfat buttermilk cuts the fat somewhat and

A crown of caramelized fresh pineapple atop tender buttermilk cake is a light, new take on an old favorite.

Copyright ? 1997 - 2007

The Taunton Press

When the caramel turns light amber, take it off the stove right away. The caramel will continue to cook by itself off the heat.

You're creating the cake's top as you arrange the fruit slices, so overlap them attractively, flat edge up.

still produces a moist cake, but if it isn't available where you shop, you'll get great results with regular buttermilk, or by adding lemon juice to whole or 2% milk--1 teaspoon per cup.

CHOOSE FRESH, RIPE FRUIT To find a perfect pineapple, smell the core; if it has a faint sweetness and gives slightly when pressed, it's probably a good one. While a sweet pineapple is its own reward, a dash of dark rum on the baked cake just before serving is delicious. Pineapple is the classic fruit choice for upside-down cake, especially at this time of year, but apples, pears, or bananas are also delicious in this recipe. Once you've chosen

your fruit, you can add your own touches with spices (see the sidebar opposite).

CARAMEL NEEDS A CLOSE WATCH The transformation of sugar into caramel is a glorious one. Here's how to ensure success: ? Use a heavy, wide-based pan with a tight-fitting lid and a sturdy handle. Boiling sugar can be scary: when you lift a pan of boiling syrup, pay attention and use a steady grip. ? Once you stir the water and sugar together and have begun to heat it, don't stir it again. Swirl the pan gently to make sure that the sugar has dissolved before the syrup comes to a full boil. When the syrup

For uniform pieces, quarter a pineapple and slice it crosswise

Photos: Mark Thomas

Remove the strip of core. Hold the knife almost parallel to the cutting board and cut just below the core.

58 Copyright ? 1997 - 2007

Separate the fruit from the rind. Again, hold the knife almost parallel to the cutting board and cut between the rind and the fruit.

Slice the fruit crosswise into 1/4-inch wedges.

FINE COOKING The Taunton Press

Spoon the batter over the fruit gently so you don't disturb your handiwork.

begins to boil, cover the pan to let the condensation wash stray sugar crystals down the sides of the pan. Undissolved sugar can turn a beautiful caramel into a grainy mess. ? When the caramel has turned light amber, remove it from the heat immediately. Don't talk yourself into leaving it on the heat for "just another minute"--the hot caramel will continue to cook by itself off the heat.

SAVE TIME BY MAKING THE CARAMEL AHEAD The caramel can be made the night before; let it cool thoroughly in the prepared cake pan and cover it loosely until you're ready to use it. You can even refrigerate an assembled, unbaked upside-down cake for two to three hours before baking.

Heat the oven to 350?F. Butter a 9-inch square or round cake pan and set it on a heatproof surface.

Make the caramel--In a heavy saucepan with a tightfitting lid, stir the water and sugar together. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, swirling occasionally. Cover the pan for about 4 min. so the condensation washes down any sugar crystals from the sides of the pan. Uncover and boil for about 12 min. (the bubbles will be large) or until it turns light amber. Remove from the heat and immediately pour the caramelized syrup into the prepared cake pan. Be careful: the syrup will be very hot. Allow the caramel to cool; it will set up within 5 min.

Prepare the fruit--Cut off the top of the pineapple and cut a slice from the bottom so it will stand upright and then quarter it. Core, peel, and slice the pineapple as shown in the photos opposite. Arrange the slices on the hardened caramel, overlapping them, with flat edges up. Remember that this will be the top of the cake (see the sidebar at right for other fruit preparations).

Assemble the cake--With an electric mixer, cream the butter. Gradually add the sugar, beating until the mixture is light. Add the eggs one at a time, beating for about 15 seconds to incorporate each. Add the vanilla extract.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. With the mixer on low speed, add half of the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and mix just until the flour disappears. Add the buttermilk and mix again. Add the remaining flour, mixing just until the flour disappears. Spoon large dollops of the batter over the sliced fruit, taking care not to disturb the arranged fruit slices. Smooth out the batter.

Bake the cake until a skewer stuck in the center comes out clean and the top of the cake is a deep golden color, about 50 min. Remove the cake from the oven and run a knife between the cake and the pan. Set a serving platter upside down on top of the cake pan, invert the platter and the pan, and let them rest for 4 to 5 min. to allow the caramelized fruit to settle onto the cake. Gently lift the pan from the cake and serve.

Margery Friedman is a cake designer, pastry chef, and food writer who lives in Rockville, Maryland. ?

Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

This cake is terrific warm, and it's mighty good cold, too. Amounts for flour and butter are listed by weight (ounces) and by volume (cups or tablespoons); use either measurement. Serves eight.

FOR THE CARAMEL: 4 Tbs. water 1 cup sugar

FOR THE FRUIT: 1 large, ripe pineapple

FOR THE CAKE: 4 oz. (8 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened 1 cup sugar 2 eggs, at room temperature 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract 7 oz. (11/2 cups) unsifted all-purpose flour 1 tsp. baking powder 1/4 tsp. salt 1/2 cup nonfat buttermilk

Set your serving platter on the cake pan and then flip the pan and platter over. Let the caramelized fruit settle for a few minutes before gently removing the pan.

BE CREATIVE WITH OTHER FRESH, RIPE FRUIT

Why limit yourself to pineapple? Other fruits are also delicious on this cake.

Pears--About five firm, ripe ones of any variety will do. If you like, lightly sprinkle the slices with cinnamon or cardamom. Apples--I like Golden Delicious, which hold their shape and have a lemony sweetness. You'll need about five. The slices will be more even if you cut them crosswise. Again, I like a sprinkle of cardamom or cinnamon for apples. Bananas--You'll need four or five long, ripe bananas (or six or seven smaller ones), sliced 1/2 inch thick on a gentle diagonal. A sprinkling of nutmeg is particularly good with bananas.

FEBRUARY/ MARCH 1997 Copyright ? 1997 - 2007

59 The Taunton Press

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