Heat n glo fireplace won't stay lit

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Heat n glo fireplace won't stay lit

CAUTION: ALWAYS REMOVE YOUR FIREPLACE GLASS PRIOR TO LIGHTING YOUR PILOT Need to reset your IntelliFire Plus Ignition System? This video walks you through the steps from identifying what system you have, to accessing the system and resetting it. Learn step-by-step how to reset your Heat & Glo? RC100/200/300 remote control. No Power? You can still use your Stove or Fireplace. If you have a gas fireplace or stove with a standing pilot, it will light during a power outage since it doesn't require electricity to activate the pilot flame. If your gas fireplace was manufactured in recent years, it may have an energy-saving intermittent pilot ignition system, which requires electricity to spark the pilot flame each time the fireplace is used. Many gas fireplaces and gas inserts are outfitted with >IntelliFire or IntelliFire Plus ignition systems which have battery backup systems that can be used to light the pilot during a power outage. Generally, IntelliFire systems require two D cell batteries, and IntelliFire Plus systems require four AA batteries. If you have a wireless remote control, or a wall switch with a display, find the control box in the lower controls of the fireplace or behind the stove. There will be a switch that slides between `ON', `OFF' and `REMOTE' ? slide this to `ON' for the appliance to operate with the power off. If you have questions, consult your owner's manual or local hearth dealer.Pellet stoves and inserts require electricity to light the flame, and many models are available with battery backup systems. Examples are Quadra-Fire pellet stoves and inserts outfitted with Advanced Technology like the Mt. Vernon. Consult the owner's manual to determine battery requirements. Also, keep in mind that power outages can cause power surges that can damage circuit boards and motors. For this reason, it's a good idea to unplug your pellet stove during a storm when it's not in use, or plug it into a surge protector. Another option for lighting your stove is to plug it into a generator, if one is available.Batteries should be used as a power source only in the event of a power outage, as battery longevity can be affected by the temperatures of the appliance. So, when your power is restored, remove the batteries and keep them handy for the next time you may need them.Remember that fireplaces and stoves make fire heat, so be sure no flammable objects are near them, and please keep children a safe distance away.If your hearth appliance has been exposed to water in any level, contact your local dealer. "I am writing to inform you of the wonderful service I received from your company and your employees. I went to 2 other fireplace stores before I went to yours. I was more confused than ever until I met Mickey. I knew more in 10 minutes with Mickey than I learned anywhere else. After my free preview with Dave, I signed the proposal and made a down payment. Everyone was easy to deal with and your team kept me in the loop every step of the way. The inspector came out and as soon as he saw my paper work, told me that I did my homework by hiring Glowing Hearth & Home. He signed off immediately and told me they are the best company for the job...and I agree completely." Judy S., Eden Prairie, MN When handling appliances that use gas or electricity in your homes such as gas fireplace, furnaces and heaters you have to be extra careful. They could be dangerous if not properly handled. Call an expert when you feel you are not confident to handle them.There are various causes that can be the reason why your gas fireplace won't stay lit. When starting your troubleshooting process check if the pilot lighting is functioning properly. In most cases, the pilot is usually the reason why your gas fireplace won't stay lit. Here are some reasons that may be contributing to your pilot lighting problem:This is a small piece of metal that acts a safety device. It triggers the gas flow when it gets heat up. It supplies pilot light with gas from the gas valve. To check if your thermocouple is faulty follow the following steps:1. You need a multi-meter and set it to Ohms (the two leads of the meter should have a zero reading when in contact)2. Remove the thermocouple from the system (use the manufacture's guide)3. Ignite a flame and place the tip of the thermocouple into contact with the flame4. Ensure that the tip is very hot. Measure the hot thermocouple tip and the rare side that makes contact with the gas valve5. The reading on your multimeter should be equal or higher than 25 millivolts. This is the standard voltage needed for the pilot flame to stay on. In case it is lower than that then you need to replace it Via Excess moisture in the gas line can also be a possible cause of pilot light problems. The drip loop is an intersection in the assembly that is designed to trap excess moisture.Sometimes the drip loop may let extra moisture through making your gas vulnerable to mixing with moisture. This dilutes the strength of the gas causing problems you are experiencing. A worn out drip loop can be replaced.Via Sometimes gas fireplace won't stay lit because it is not receiving sufficient gas to keep the flame going. The color of the flame can be an indicator of the gas flow. Because this is a real flame, will not effect like that of electric fireplaces.The burner is placed below the thermocouple and pilot. It contains tiny holes that pass through the gas. When your gas fireplace won't stay lit is may be because these holes are clogged with dirt. You can clean the holes using an air compressor or water. However, when you use water to ensure that you dry it thoroughly.The flame produced should be hot enough and engulf all the triggers. The ideal flame color is supposed to be bright blue. When you notice a yellow flame it is not a good indicator because it means that the sensor is not getting enough heat energy to trigger them.The color of the flame is the indicator whether it I bad or good. You can replace the pilot assembly or clean it out with a wire brush. Sometimes the flame is poor due to impurities in the assembly.Via The gas valve is usually the last option when troubleshooting why your gas fireplace won't stay lit. It is a rare case to get a malfunctioning gas valve but we cannot completely rule out its possibility.We recommend that you use experts when you detect that the gas valve is the problem. The diagnosis of the gas valve can be done visually.Faulty wall switch may be the cause why your gas fireplace won't stay lit. This is a common problem for most gas fireplaces.Thermocouple and thermopile are directly connected to the wall switch. When your wall switch is flipped on it transmits current that triggers the flame.Over time your voltage at the wall switch reduces which translates to less voltage being transmitted to trigger the flame. This may be due to corroded contacts, dirt covered contacts or broken connection.Open the wall switch ad expose the wires. You will find two wires. Disconnect the wires from the switch and bring the two wires into contact. Observe if the fireplace comes on. If it does then the switch is the problem and you may be required to replace it.When your fireplace does not go on then you have to "jump the valve". Go to the valve and spot the contacts that are labeled TH and TP/TH. Take a wire and connect TH and TP/TH directly.By doing this you are bypassing all the safety switches and fuse to see if the problem is in between the valve and the wall switch. If your fireplace goes on then the problem lies within the current path. Troubleshooting is the hectic part of repairing your gas fireplace complications. The current is usually below 1 volt and you don't have to worry about being electrocuted.The above problems diagnosis is the common causes your gas fireplace won't stay lit for long. In case you reach a dead end then you will have to call an expert and get their opinion on it.Learn more about fire pits and fireplace for your residential home design Yesterday I got our gas fireplace insert started up for the first time this season. Everything worked fine all day, but then this morning about 30 seconds after flipping the switch to turn on the main burner, it turned itself off. The pilot light was still lit, but the main burner was off. I flipped the switch back to off for a second, and then back on, and the same thing happened. Burner came on for 20 to 30 seconds, then turned off. After some Internet research, I tried using a multimeter to test the voltage from the thermopile. The voltage without the burner lit was about 520mV. After turning the burner on, it immediately dropped to probably 420mV, and then very slowly continued dropping to under 200mV. Around that time, the burner turned off. I opened up the fireplace, and used a wire brush to clean the thermopile as best I could. I also noticed that most of the holes in the front half of the burner were partially blocked, or completely clogged with dust or debris, so I used a toothpick to make sure every hole was clear. After putting everything back together and re-lighting the pilot, the thermopile voltage was about 610mV, but when I turned the main burner back on, the same thing happened. The voltage dropped to mid-400s, then slowly crawled down to mid-100s, and then the burner turned off. Ever since then, the voltage with the burner off is 550mV. I also tried shorting the thermostat connections, and the burner turned on fine. Before this afternoon, I had never heard of a thermopile, so I'm really not sure what to try next. UPDATE 1: See comments for discussion with @ThreePhaseEel and @Tyson that got me this far... Well, it's working at the moment. I tested the voltage on the switch (TH and TH/TP terminals). Switched off was 500mV. Switched on was 2mV. Used an infrared thermometer to check the temp of the terminals, and they were 72?F on or off. The only thing I changed was that I pulled the unit out a few inches to see better, vacuumed out a bunch of dust/hair/webs, and moved wires around to see around them. While it was pulled out, I started it and it ran fine until I turned it off to put everything back together. Then I turned it on and it had the original problem. Re-tested everything and ended up with same numbers. Then I tried starting it up again, and it's been fine ever since (hour or so). The thermopile voltage hovers around 140mV while everything is running, the switch is still at 2mV, and the terminals are still 72?F. I'll update again if anything changes. I'm hoping that cleaning everything out somehow helped fix the problem.

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