Mummification or mummy



Mummification is a specialized form of bondage and sensory deprivation which involves wrapping the subject in some material or combination of materials. Mummification can be either quite severe or relatively gentle and comfortable, depending on the materials and techniques used. Regardless of severity, it tends to be one of the more involved "scenes," as a full body wrap takes quite a long time to accomplish. Most people associate mummification with full body wraps like the one shown here, but the same techniques can be used on isolated body parts. For example, an electrical tape "head wrap" serves as an interesting and potentially severe hood, while arm or leg wraps can quickly immobilize a submissive. Mummification can be performed many ways, but the principle is the same. Instead of saran wrap, you can use cloth or latex bandages or even leather strips, or even pieces of cloth secured with duct tape or other tapes. You can also get something of the same effect by using sleep sacks and hoods.. Adhesive tapes and wraps like cling film (saran wrap) are popular for mummification but can also be used in more general bondage, for example, in hand bindings. A specialized kind of bondage in which the whole body, including the head if some form of breathing tube is used, is wrapped tightly using materials like cling film (saran wrap or pallet wrap) and duct or gaffer's tape (also called gaffa tape in UK), cloth or latex bandages until the bottom (the mummee/mummy) is completely immobilized. Holes are then sometimes made for access to genitals and other areas. Duck Tape is convenient in some circumstances and is readily available in black or silver. However, be careful about applying it to bare skin: ripping it off will remove hairs and possibly even skin and can be painful, and irritation may result from contact with the adhesive. Go easy, or apply it over a barrier material such as vet wrap or pallet wrap. Have plenty of wrap available, because it takes more than one you might think. It works out to somewhere around 75-100m (yards), which is three or four regular sized rolls of wrap. Placing a blindfold first will ensure complete darkness under the wrap, and will prevent the eyes from opening. If one doesn’t have a blindfold, place a few cotton balls on top of each closed eye, and secure with a little medical tape Remember throughout the wrapping, that absolute comfort is important in creating the headspace which is required to maximize the experience. As part of a scene, it can be extremely effective. A bottom's headspace is not quite the same after being released from a good mummification as it was going in, and a good top will use this fact to his or her advantage -- and of course to create an intense experience for the bottom. Try to have at least one helper, also, who could be either another top or a bottom. The assistant will be responsible for maintaining the bottom in an upright position while you work with the wrapping material. The assistant must also maintain close communication with the bottom, to make sure the experience remains an enjoyable one for all concerned. The emotional high that this form of bondage produces can become scary if the environment is not comforting and safe. Another good reason not to attempt mummification alone is that one may need the assistant to help steady the bottom. One very basic (but still very real) danger is that the bottom will fall over. The process of wrapping will cause disorientation, and the loss of all sense of direction; they will often attempt to push themselves over, wrongly thinking that they are already falling, so one must be prepared to hold them upright, especially if the bottom is not experienced in this area. In order to minimize the danger of this happening, make sure the bottom understands the potential for this phenomenon, and will trust the Dom enough to allow the falsely detected fall to happen -- which ironically will prevent a real fall from happening.

Saran/Cling Wrap has gained popularity over the years for use in mummification. You can use clear or colored wrap for more artistic designs. Some also like using the vinyl pallet wrap, remember you don't need anything thicker than 20 gauge. Some like saran/cling wrap mummification for sensory deprivation, others like saran/cling wrap to struggle against to see if they can escape (fun in prisoner/captive scenes), others like saran/cling wrap so they become the center piece of a buffet table and others like to wear saran/cling wrap as an outfit. Coban self-adherent wrap that is 6 inches wide and Vetrap that is 4 inches wide has gained some popularity but be aware some brands contain latex. The ideas and uses are plentiful. It isn't really like most other types of bondage. It provides the immobility and feeling of submission that other bondage techniques do, but there are added physical and emotional elements that are hard to duplicate any other way. While mummified, one you will experience sensory deprivation, as one you would in a sensory deprivation tank, although on a somewhat lower level. Not feeling restrained, but taken completely out of ones body, as though one is floating in some astral plane free from weight, feeling, sight, and sound. Only your essence remains, and one becomes intensely focused on the few small sensations that still remain heartbeat, breathing, and thoughts . This is done by wrapping material around the submissive's body. For a gentle, comfortable wrap, use elastic bandages. If this is more about bondage and helplessness, use duct tape over pallet wrap, wrapping the legs together and the arms against the body. For sensory deprivation, wrap each limb separately before doing an over-wrap... and consider inserting foam ear plugs before wrapping the head and cut off the mummy's eyesight.

Some materials are fairly common in mummification, and they can be broken down into a few broad classes:

Plastic is excellent for mummification, because it's relatively easy to work with and tends to stick to itself. Since it doesn't stick to skin (much), it can be used directly on the body, and is often the first layer of a more intense wrap. The down side is that it doesn't "breath," so it's not the most comfortable material for the person being wrapped. (On the other hand, some folks love that damp sweaty sensation!)Kitchen Plastic Wrap - Known as "cling film" in the UK, different brands have different characteristics. Saran WrapTM, for example, is fairly thick and won't stretch far before it breaks, but it sticks to itself tenaciously. Dow Handi-WrapTM, on the other hand, is thinner and stretches more. I personally prefer plastic with some stretch, as it makes it easier to get a smooth fit to the body and achieve the desired tension.

Pallet Wrap - Also known as "banding fim" in the narrower sizes, this is a usually heavier gauge, stretchy plastic that is used to wrap boxes to shipping pallets (among other uses). It's available in narrow rolls that are easier to use around the curves and angles of the body, as well as wide rolls for quick over-wrapping. Pallet wrap is available in colors including black, but most mail-order sources want you to buy a case at a time. Narrow rolls of green and clear are usually available at hardware stores and U-Haul locations.

Shrink Wrap - Not to be confused with pallet wrap, shrink wrap doesn't stretch much, if any. After it's applied, heat is applied (with a blow drier, for example) and the film shrinks, clinching whatever (or whoever!) is underneath

Tape has an adhesive backing of course, so it stays where you put it... good for mummification. Since tape also adheres to skin and hair, use tape as an overwrap, with something a bit less aggressive underneath. Most tapes don't "breath" so, again, this isn't the most comfortable wrap.

Duct Tape - The staple of mummification fans! Many, many wraps are done with duct tape over pallet wrap. It's wide (so you get a lot done with each pass), it's relatively attractive (standard gray duct tape makes a sort of shiny silver mummy, and it's available in colors as well), it's inexpensive, and it's readily available at any hardware store. Duct tape doesn't stretch, so take some care in applying it.

Electrical Tape - Made of vinyl, electrical tape (or upholstery repair tape) stretches to some degree and is available in bright colors. Some of the more expensive brands have an adhesive that's well-behaved enough to use directly on the skin. Because the tape is narrow, it's excellent for oddly shaped areas like the head, or where there are a lot of curves, like around the fingers.

Aisle Marking Tape - Not flexible and workable like duct tape, and not stretchy and narrow like electrical tape, aisle marking tape has one redeeming characteristic: it comes in stripes! Diagonal stripes of black and yellow, black and white, or red and white are used to mark off various industrial hazard areas. Don't overlook "message tape," which is typically used to seal cartons. It doesn't stretch and is difficult to work with... but think how appropriate it would be to wrap ones mummy with tape that says FRAGILE - Handle with Care!

Packing Tape - Plastic packing tape doesn't stretch and is very thin and tenacious... plus it tends to tear. It's difficult to work with and isn't very "pretty," but it will do in a pinch. It's available in a number of colors including light tan and absolutely crystal clear.

Metal Duct Seam Tape - This is literally a strip of thin metal with an adhesive backing. It wrinkles badly and, once wrinkled, it can't be smooth it out again. But it makes a nice accent if doing "artistic" mummification!

Bandages can be used directly on the skin and, for the most part, aren't sticky (VetrapTM is a wonderful exception). Since bandages "breath," the submissive will find these more comfortable than some other materials. One can even wrap the head completely, since air will pass through the bandage. Unless using multiple layers, bandages allow a lot of freedom of movement for the mummy, which again means more comfort. Plus, bandages can be used over and over again, reducing the costs of mummification. The down side is that it's tougher to keep the wrap in place as the bandages will tend to slip and slide (again, VetrapTM is an exception).

Gauze - Gauze doesn't stretch much at all, Since gauze is very absorbent, it's a useful base layer for encasement scenes (a relative of mummification) with, for example, hot wax or plaster of paris.

Elastic Bandages - Ace is probably the best-known brand. The simplest elastic bandage is just a strip of stretchy cloth. Some varieties have a bit of "tack" to their ends and will stick to itself; these are a bit easier to use. Elastic bandages usually come in a rough approximation of flesh tone.

VetrapTM - This material looks and feels more like crepe paper than anything else. It clings to itself marvelously, but doesn't stick to other materials. It comes in narrow rolls and is excellent for wrapping the head or anywhere there are a lot of tight curves. It's available from veterinary supply stores and often at tack shops.

Pre-WrapTM - This is a very thin, velvety-soft foam that is used in athletics under other wraps. It tends to cling to itself but doesn't really "stick". It can give an interesting milky, "filmy" look, but isn't quite as comfortable as fabric.

SpandexTM - Nothing stretches like LycraTM. It breaths, and is available in fluorescent colors. The down side is that Lycra is fairly expensive, and it's very "slippery," so expect problems keeping the wrapping in place.

Cloth Strips - While cloth (like SpandexTM, mentioned above) isn't the easiest thing to work with.. If there is an old, worn bed sheet that's about to head for the rag bag, try tearing it into strips and experimenting with it. Some people soak such strips in water before applying them, which makes them cling more and slip less.

There are some safety measures to keep in mind when performing mummification. Communication is of the up most importance and can be intense and a bit frightening to someone who's never experienced it. Negotiate first; make sure the submissive partner is reasonably comfortable with the idea, and that there are no claustrophobia issues. Check with the subject as one is wrapping, to make sure there aren't any uncomfortable spots and there isn’t a building up too much pressure anywhere.

Keep Bandage Scissors Handy. Never knowing when someone might have a panic attack, cramp, or some other unexpected problem that demands quick release. Bandage scissors (safety scissors, EMT shears) have one blunt end that slips under the wrap material and reduces the chance of cutting the submissive. These are really handy to have around, and are inexpensive enough that you should have a pair anyway, for other scenes. They can be purchased at many drug stores and all medical supply houses. Make sure you know where yours are before you begin to wrap. Don't Get Carried Away wrappings need to me lighter then one would think. A little bit of tension isn't bad, but when it's over the entire body, it adds up... especially with multiple layers. Plus, cramps can come on without warning if you overdo it. Though of course wrap very tightly and turn mummification into a "torture" scene -- and some submissives love that. But make sure that's what they want, and be prepared for the scene to be a short one.To admire the work for a while and let the sub "float away" in bondage then take it easy on how much and how tightly wrapped it is.

Don't Obstruct Breathing - This seems obvious, but there are several points to note. Wrapping the entire head with non-breathable material like electrical tape -- leaving only nostril holes -- is an intense scene... but it's not good for someone with sinus problems if their nasal passages suddenly lock up. Be aware of how tightly you wrap under the jaw.

Take care not to restrict breathing when wrapping the chest and abdomen. If you're working with something like duct tape that doesn't stretch, make sure ythe subject can take a full, deep breath. If using plastic wrap, don't get carried away: Yes, plastic stretches... but multiple layers can exert as much pressure as a tightly laced corset. Remember: if pushed too close to the edge, this may cause the sub to have a panic attack.

Don't Play with Fire! - Plastic wrap, electrical tape, and so on are flammable petroleum-based products. Smoking, playing with candles, or using a Violet Wand near your mummy means a risk of fire.

Support your Mummy - Once the arms and legs are wrapped, your mummy will have no way to balance, and the slightest nudge can tip him or her over. This may be a mummy's greatest fear! It's vital that there support to the mummy at all times and make sure there is no danger of falling.

Watch Out For Dehydration - This isn't an issue for all mummification scenes. But if keeping the mummy wrapped in a non-breathing material for many hours, supply fluids to the submissive as time goes on (and, needless to say, feed the water carefully to avoid choking). It might not be a bad idea to have him or her drink a glass of water just before starting, as well. And common sense dictates you not try plastic-wrap mummification outside in 90° temperatures!

Toxic Wrap?

It's been pointed out that plastic is a petrochemical and a lot of different chemicals and compounds are used in its manufacture. Some have said that highly toxic chemicals like arsenic are used, and that by wrapping a person those poisons could leach out and be absorbed by the skin. While mummification isn't the intended purpose of pallet wrap, it's certainly handled in large quantities by industrial workers around the world, and organizations like OSHA and the FDA keep a close eye on health concerns. Still, it wouldn't be a bad idea to request a material safety data sheet on the brand of pallet wrap just to make sure.

Techniques for mummification as listed below require caution and preparation.Begin by deciding where to create the mummy. A "dungeon" is a natural choice, but so is a bedroom: one can stretch your completed mummy out on the bed and even join him or her for a little intimate fun. Just remember that, once the mummy's completed (or nearly so), if it's going to move anywhere one will have to transport it... so choose carefully.

Once decided where one will be working, gather what is needed For plastic wraps, of course need one or more rolls of plastic wrap. How many will depend on the length and width of the roll, as well as the size of the person you're wrapping. One can do several mummifications with a single roll of pallet wrap, but it might take a couple of rolls of plastic kitchen wrap to get through one session. For duct tape wraps, how much is needed again depends on the length of the roll and the size of the subject. Generally using about one and a half average-sized rolls of duct tape .In addition to whatever one is wrapping with, get a couple of washcloths or other padding. If engaging in nipple play after the mummy is completed, add a couple of cotton balls and a paper clip. And don't forget bandage scissors Of course one needs the volunteer, who also needs to prepare. A mummification scene can easily take 30 minutes to several hours. Unless wanting the mummy to suffer, a quick trip to the bathroom before starting is highly advisable!

Plastic Wrap Mummification

Start with the chest and shoulders, mostly because the shoulders, neck, and head are the trickiest areas to wrap. Begin with one or two wraps around the chest, just below the armpits. This gives the shoulder plastic something to cling to, and makes the job easier. If those cotton balls are handy, center one over each nipple as you begin your wrapping, so they'll be pinned against the skin. Next, wrap over each shoulder with one long piece or cut several pieces of plastic. Work along each shoulder until it's smoothly covered. If wrapping the head work up the neck now, or tackle this any time before laying the mummy down. It's easiest to use narrower plastic for the head. Try not to put too many layers or too much pressure against the neck, jaw, eyes, or nose... and, of course, leave plenty of space for breathing! Place a layer of plastic and cut out breathing holes as in doing so; this avoids the need for "precision" wrapping. Once the shoulders (and possibly neck and head) wrapped, return to the chest and wrap downward to the hips. A strip or two of narrow plastic through the crotch should be used to close this area off. Do not to let skin touch skin; it detracts from the "sensory deprivation" aspects of mummification if the submissive can feel him- or herself. Wrapping one leg is all it takes, or you can in fact just run a sheet of plastic between the mummy's legs. For each leg, run the plastic down the top of the foot, across the toes, and up the sole of the foot. For wide plastic you can just fold the resulting "tabs" over; otherwise, make a quarter turn and wrap the foot, then wrap up the leg to crotch level. Wrap the arms as well; when the mummy's wrapped arms are pressed against his or her plastic-covered body the two layers will adhere, locking the arms in place. To wrap an arm, fold the plastic over the hand, do a quarter-turn, and begin spiraling up to the armpit.

Be aware that plastic wrap has a tendency to "roll" at the edges, especially when going around curves (e.g., under armpits) or when it's under a lot of tension. To avoid this, try not to put any tension on the first layer of plastic. Go back with another layer, pulling a bit more, since the plastic will tend to adhere to the layer underneath.Once an edge begins to roll it will tend to continue, building up a ridge that is under a lot of pressure and can really dig into one’s your play partner. Keep an eye out for these; if one occurs, make sure it's not causing discomfort for the mummy. Just cut through the rolled edge and relieve enough pressure to alleviate problems; worst case, trim along the edge of the plastic, cutting the roll off completely. This brings up an important point: don't be afraid to modify the your work as one you goes. Don’t get carried away and put too many layers over the chest or the partner will have problems breathing, don't hesitate to cut through most or all of those layers to relieve the pressure. The safety and comfort of the subject far outweighs the cost of some plastic wrap and the time it takes to apply it! And doesn’t require ripping it all off and starting over. Having cut through enough plastic to alleviate the problem, just go over that area with a wrap or two and the mummy will be as good as new.

At this point have the partner who is completely covered in plastic wrap and are ready for the first over-wrap. Position the mummy's arms and hands wherever one likes. Fingertips at the crotch give the submissive an opportunity for some genital manipulation; arms crossed "Egyptian" or straitjacket-style will feel more like bondage. (Watch out for uncomfortable creases inside the elbows if going "Egyptian.") For women especially, be cautious of arms at the side, since their narrower waists won't support the arms and could result in excessive pressure on the elbows if wrapping too tightly. Beginning just below the shoulders, wrap down to mid-thigh, pinning the arms to the body. If you wrapped the arms separately, they should now be firmly held in place.

At this point, if working alone, help the mummy into a reclining position. Then, lift the legs and begin wrapping them together. Insert a folded washcloth or other padding between the knees and the ankles and then wrap the legs together, from the thighs down to the feet. Now there is a completed plastic-wrap mummy. Now, one last thing. Bend out the paper clip and use the end to gently pick open the plastic above the cotton balls, widening the holes as necessary. Pull out and discard the cotton balls, and one now has access to your mummy's nipples for whatever pleasures or torments might occur .

A duct tape mummification is potentially more stringent than plastic wrap. Duct tape doesn't stretch and is quite strong, so some care needs to be used in applying it. Done correctly though, a duct tape mummy will be just as comfortable as a plastic-wrapped one, but with less ability to squirm about. A duct tape (or other tape) mummy begins just like a plastic wrap mummy; this is because one can't apply tape directly to the skin without causing a lot of pain. (Even if the mummy is a serious masochist and one is a top-of-the-line sadist, this might be more intense than either of the pair can handle. If one still thinks to try tape directly on the skin, to try a very small (and hairy) area first.)Start the plastic-wrap mummy as described in the last installment. Once completed the overwrap down to the thighs -- the point at which help the mummy into a reclining position -- set the plastic wrap aside and pick up the duct tape instead. Begin with several strips running front-to-back to cover the shoulders, similar to the way the plastic wrap was used. Transitioning to the neck can be a bit difficult; the smoothest method is probably to apply short strips of tape vertically down the neck and a short distance onto the shoulders, chest, and back. A faster route is to lay down a strip half on the shoulder, half on the neck, and angled in more towards the center of the chest than the others. Tear or cut the duct tape in a few spots to get everything to adhere smoothly. The rest of the neck can be done once the base is finished.

This is a good time to repeat a warning from the installment on mummification safety. Don't wrap too tightly! This is even more important with duct tape than with plastic wrap. One You may be tempted to just wind the roll around and around your subject... don't! Even the tension caused by pulling the tape off the roll can be too much when distributed across the entire body. Instead, pull the roll away from your mummy to reel off a few feet of tape, then gently wrap it around and smooth the tape into place. Remember, add more tape and make it tighter if needed later, but once that tape hits the plastic wrap, the only way to get it off is to cut it off. Quite a bit of time is spent constructing the mummy; don't force an early end to the scene by getting carried away. If one does build up too much pressure, the your mummy should tell you. Make sure one’s partner understands that he or she needs to tell one what doesn't feel right. The goal is to have fun, not to "tough it out." Across the shoulders, through the ribs, and at the knees and ankles are common problem spots. If almost finished wrapping and your mummy complains of a throbbing shoulder, don't to give up and start over! Simply cut a slit through the problem area using bandage scissors; this should relieve the pressure. When the problem has been alleviated, place a small piece of plastic over the slit, and then smooth on enough duct tape to cover the plastic. The repair job will be nearly invisible.

Now, start spiraling carefully down the body. If planning nipple play later, use an indelible marker or small squares of electrical tape to mark the center of the cotton balls and tape over them; otherwise, one will you'll find it difficult to determine where to open the wrappings. Also, use the bandage scissors on the duct tape, unlike the plastic which can be torn open with the paper clip. When one reaches the end of the plastic overwrap at the thighs, take a moment to wrap the mummy's head. Put this off as long as possible to I talk with the my partner. Don't wrap too tightly, being especially careful under the chin and over the eyes and nose. Don't tape directly over the mouth, and leave enough slack that the mummy can open his or her mouth slightly.

Of course make sure not to obstruct your partner's breathing in any way. In addition, use the bandage scissors to cut a thin slit in the plastic along the lips before applying a single strip of duct tape across the mouth. At the end of the strip, fold about a quarter inch of the tape back on itself to make a tab. Now, if a sinus attack or other problem that inhibits breathing occurs, one can grab the tab, pull that single strip of tape loose -- most likely taking the plastic over the lips with it -- allowing your partner to breath through his or her mouth. If the problem persists, use the bandage scissors to quickly cut the wrappings away from the neck and head. Now help your mummy into a reclining position and pick up with the plastic wrap again. You can skip this overwrap and go right to the duct tape, but you may find it difficult to wrap the legs smoothly if they aren't already immobilized relative to each other. Don't forget the padding at knees and ankles as needed. Once you've finished with the plastic wrap, follow up with the duct tape to complete your mummy. Now that all the tape is applied, go over your mummy with your hands, smoothing the tape. You'll be surprised to find that a lot of the smaller wrinkles and puckers can be flattened out. This process also seals the edges of each strip to the one beneath, improving the overall appearance of the finished productThe mummy

There should be no rolls digging into the skin, and the overall tension won't be so great as to cause problems. Combine this with a comfortable temperature, and there's no reason you can't play with your new creation for a while. I've already mentioned the cotton ball trick for gaining access to the nipples. If you're working with a duct-tape wrap, you can try cutting holes somewhat smaller than the engorged nipples; when you pull the cotton balls out the nipples should follow. They'll be snuggly constrained by the small hole, keeping them engorged and sensitive. Bear in mind, though, that the edges of the duct tape can become uncomfortable after a while; if you anticipate a long session, you may want to cut larger holes. You can also gain access to other parts of the anatomy. A woman's genital area is particularly easy to work with, thanks to the wrap being away from the skin at the crotch and between the legs. Just carefully cut away a round or square piece of wrap an inch or two across. As you're pursuing these pleasures, keep in mind that your subject is completely wrapped in a (usually) non-breathing material, making it difficult for the body to cool itself. There may also be issues of pulled muscles from involuntary reactions. It's better to be a bit over-cautious than to push too far and spoil things. If your partner enjoys bondage and likes to have "quiet time," you might consider going the other way: make your mummy as comfortable as possible, then just let him or her quietly rest. This isn't total sensory deprivation by a long stretch, but it's amazingly effective. You can add a pair of headphone-style hearing protectors over the wrap to help reduce outside distractions. Sometimes better is the old style "over the ear" headphones, plugged into an FM radio tuned between stations with the muting turned off; the quiet rushing noise can help blanket out room sounds. Foam earplugs that are inserted into the ear canal are even more effective, but you have to add these before you wrap, and they're not easily removed in mid-scene if you decide you'd like to for some reason.

If you go the quiet route, you might be tempted to slip out of the room. Don't. Remember, your mummy is totally helpless. If something goes wrong, a mummy can't even call for help. You shouldn't leave your partner's side, not even for a moment. Their safety is in your hands. Now, that's not to say you can't pretend to leave, if that's something that would add to your play. Just stay on this side of the door when you close it, then slip quietly back into position. This can be a tremendous mind game to play with a mummified partner, but be absolutely sure panic or other negative reactions won't be the result before you try this.

At some point, either you or your mummy is going to decide it's time to end the scene. Unwrapping is the obvious answer for elastic bandages, but it takes far too long for plastic wrap, and is a virtual impossibility in the case of duct tape. If you can't unwrap, it's time to grab those bandage scissors. Find an area where you can start, like between the legs or through large nipple holes. It's difficult to cut the skin with bandage scissors, but be careful not to pinch! Once you have an opening large enough to get a finger through, start holding the wrap away from the skin as you cut. Plastic wrap tends to stick to the skin, and pulling it away by sliding your finger alongside where you're cutting will allow you to move faster with less risk. For a person who has a love-hate relationship with being tickled, for example, the soles of the feet might be freed early on. But when it comes time to extract my playmate, Most often start with the head. This gives your subject the opportunity to breath easily and speak with you (though don't expect much conversation if you've done a good job and sent your mummy to subspace). Be very careful around the face, especially the eyes and ears. Work two fingers under the wrap here, one on either side of the scissors, and cut very slowly and cautiously.

And don't forget there's hair under there... you don't want to give a bad haircut as a side-effect of the scene! If you cut from the neck up the side of the face and then across and back down, you can free the face and leave a "cap" or "hood" of sorts on the rest of the head. If you then proceed downward, cutting a slit towards the feet, you can eventually slip the wrap off the head without cutting too much near the hair. Once you've slit the front, you can "peel" the entire wrap off. Go slowly; plastic wrap tends to stick to the skin; amazingly so, if the wrapee has been encased for any length of time without perspiring excessively. Duct tape wraps will maintain much of their shape, and a first-time wrapee often finds it interesting and amusing to look at the "cocoon" that's left behind.

An interesting side effect is called "lizard skin". Unless you're a perfectionist, the inner layer of a plastic wrap will be wrinkled. If your partner has been wrapped for a while, you'll find that he or she maintains much of the texture of the wrap! A freshly-extracted mummification subject may have skin that looks something like that of a lizard; it's a surprising and strangely attractive result that quickly fades. (Elastic bandage mummification, on the other hand, will leave the texture of the bandage as well as the spirals from the wrap.)

You've just extracted someone from possibly non-breathing material... someone you may have been keeping very much "fired up." That probably means they are going to get very cold, very quickly. Have a nice robe or some thick terrycloth towels handy. Don't count on being able to walk your partner quickly to a warmer part of the house; depending on how long and tightly one is wrapped -- or how deeply they went into subspace -- it may not be possible for them to move very far or very quickly for a while.

I usually move my partner to the couch and sit with him or her, quietly talking about the experience and helping with the "return to Earth." Especially for a first-timer, it can be unwise to try to continue any sort of role playing. Drop the Big Bad Dom/me attitude for a while, and be there for your partner. More often than not it will be greatly appreciated.

Sensory deprivation facilitates the production of an altered state of consciousness through the reduction of extroceptive stimulation and/or motor activity [Tart, 1990]. Sensory deprivation functions in a similar manner as meditation; both reduce the perception of external stimulus. Whereas meditation accomplishes this through mental processes, sensory deprivation is a direct manipulation of the environment [Wallace & Fisher, 1991]. Partial sensory deprivation, including changes in patterns and relationships of sensory input, cause a state of relaxation conducive to an altered state. Awareness of one's surroundings remains and hypnologic activity is likely to occur. A reduction of external stimuli allows an individual to focus inward due to the absence of attending to sensory input. Altering sensory perception allows for a focusing of the mind which in time produces an altered state. Relaxation, time to think without distractions, vivid imagery, and feelings of love and warmth are common experiences [Wallace & Fisher, 1991]. Technically, total sensory deprivation is very difficult to achieve [Auerbach, 1996]. However, in severe deprivation environments noticeable differences emerge. White-out conditions, prolonged isolation, or a highly structured environment intensifies the altered state experience. If brain stimulation from sensory inputs is eliminated or greatly altered the brain begins to "fill in"/compensate for the change. Hallucinations likely result; all perceptual experience is being drawn from internal sources. Loss of identity, difficulty meeting basic survival needs, apathy, and depression have been known to occur in a total sensory deprivation environment. Research subjects typically find the experience intolerable within only 4 days [Wallace & Fisher, 1991].

.A therapeutic session lasts an hour. For the first forty minutes it is reportedly possible to experience itching in various parts of the body (a phenomenon also reported to be common during the early stages of meditation). The last 20 minutes often end with a transition from beta or alpha brainwaves to theta, which typically occur briefly before sleep and again at waking. The theta state can last for several minutes without the subject losing consciousness. Some use the extended theta state as a tool for enhanced creativity and problem-solving or for superlearning. Though short periods of sensory deprivation can be relaxing, extended deprivation can result in extreme anxiety, hallucinations, bizarre thoughts, depression, and antisocial behavior .In the aspect of Sensory Deprivation, including Solitary Confinement; All forms of sensory deprivation can have profound and long-lasting psychological consequences. ,effects of solitary confinement include depression, anxiety, difficulty with concentration and memory, hypersensitivity to external stimuli, hallucinations, perception distortions, paranoia and problems with impulse control.,The BerlinCenter treated ex-political prisoners from East Germany who experienced solitary confinement with sensory deprivation for long periods (from several months to several years). Torture methods included sleep deprivation, long lasting interrogation night and day and disorientation techniques. The prisoners reported that they no longer trusted their own perceptions, they went through psychotic states with delusions and hallucinations and experienced a total loss of cog initially, the subjects slept, but eventually they became bored, restless, and moody. They became disoriented and had difficulty concentrating, and their performance on problem-solving tests progressively deteriorated the longer they were isolated in the cubicle. Some experienced auditory or visual hallucinations.

The deterioration in both physical and psychological functioning that occurs with sensory deprivation has been linked to the need of human beings for an optimal level of arousal. Too much or too little arousal can produce stress and impair a person's mental and physical abilities. Thus, appropriate degrees of sensory deprivation may actually have a therapeutic effect when arousal levels are too high. The purpose of all coercive techniques is to induce psychological regression in the subject by bringing a superior outside force to bear on his will to resist. Regression is basically a loss of autonomy, a reversion to an earlier behavioral level. As the subject regresses, his learned personality traits fall away in reverse chronological order. He begins to lose the capacity to carry out the highest creative activities, to deal with complex situations, to cope with stressful interpersonal relationships, or to cope with repeated frustrations. (CIA 1983, p. K-1)

Susceptibility to external influence, including both primary suggestibility and persuasibility, is clearly increased by SD. The data indicate that this phenomenon originates with the lack of information anchors in the SD situation: the subject is at loose ends, without guidelines for his behavior, unable to concentrate, and in a state of stimulus- and information-hunger… (Suedfeld 1969, p. 166)

References

Auerbach, L. Altered States of Consciousness, Lecture, Orinda, CA, (1996).

Tart, C.T. (1990). Altered States of Consciousness. (3rd ed.). New York: Harper Collins.

Wallace, B. & Fisher, L.E. (1991). Consciousness and Behavior. (3rd ed.). Needham Heights, MA: Allyn and Bacon.

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