>1986 TROOPER LE 2 DOOR
fax resignation letter and timesheet to CSI
empty personal drivespace
ftp stuff up to ORC as necessary
add area-specific to SH spec, mail to Richard for further distribution
written plan for FBE handoff
written plan for web handoff
call CDI about Intel contract - report 8:00 Monday the 19th
mail kammy's resume to Betsy
Dave Brighton 801-763-2300
I have more tricks but I have to save them for my 84' GTI ITB race car
so I can win! Actually if u want more stuff just ask. They key is the
fuel system and getting more air in. I have scoured the earth for way
to create more power without spending alot of money. It's not easy. But
something can be done without spending too much money. Keep this in mind
also; VW had to design the car to pass emmisions and start in cold and
hot weather AND not suck too much fuel. If you reverse engineer these
items you can create more power. Also consider manufacturing cost
limitations.
Actually -- it turns out that certain engines degree with offset keys, so the next question is which engines and what size keys do they use. I mean, it's a woodruff key, so how difficult could it realy be? There are tolerance stack ups between the sprockets, key and pin locations in the crank and cam, etc. so there is a large potential for cumulative slop.
You need a degree wheel and a dial indicator setup. Mount the degree wheel on the crank. You can bend a piece of wire like coat hanger into a pointer. Use the dial indicator to find top dead center of #1 piston by turning the engine to an indicater reading just before TDC. Not you degree wheel reading. Turn the engine back the other way until you get the same dial indicater reading as before and again note your degree wheel reading. Your TDC is half way between.
Adjust the wheel half the number of degrees either side of TDC so it will be 0 at TDC. Now you can move your degree wheel to the #1 intake lifter where no rocker arm is installed and set it to 0 with the lifter on the flat of the lobe. Turn the engine in it's normal rotation direction until the lifter has raised 0.050". The degree wheel at that point should match the degrees specified on the cam card with the cam.
more info at:
Degreeing is where you measure the valve events (open/close) in relation to the crankshaft position in degrees. Every camshaft comes with a "degree" sheet that lists the timing of the valve events as designed. Due to manufacturing tolerances, these can be off by several degrees and variations in engine blocks/valve trains can also induce errors. Degreeing your cam allows you to see these errors and reposition the cam to return it to manufacture timing recommendations.
I believe one should always at least check the cam by degreeing to verify the manufacturing, but if you really want to get the most from your cam and intake manifold combo, here's what you do.
For a truck motor, you want the torque peak to occure low in the RPM range. Every motor generates its peak torque where the motor also achieves peak volumetric efficiency (VE). VE is the point where the most air/fuel mix is packed into the cylinder to be burned. More fuel = more torque. The intake system relies on fluid dynamics and other tuning tricks to get the most charge into the cylinder. Once a "wave" of air/fuel is screaming down the intake runner into the cylinder, it has a fair amount of momentum and is hard to stop. This is why a camshaft will keep the intake valve open well past bottom dead center. Even though the piston is starting back up the bore and should be pushing air/fuel back out the intake, the momentum of the incomming wave is enough to overcome this and keep packing a charge in. The cam manufactures secret is to determine when to close the valve so that a maximum charge is introduced into the cylinder. It works the same way for the exhaust. Obviously the momentum of the incomming charge is higher at higher RPMs, so a different set of parameters are used for high RPM race cams. There also is the problem of other cylinders "stealing" some of the charges energy, so you can see that any camshaft is really a compromise given your engine size, intended use, and modifications. That's why there are so many kinds of cams available for one particular motor. The cam manufacture usally assumes a basic stock motor with stock compression when designing an RV type cam. Add headers and an aftermarket intake manifold and the cam specs no longer apply. They may still be close, but they are no longer the best for your combonation of add-ons. To help eliminate this problem, some manufactures started offering packages that contain a cam, intake manifold, and sometimes headers with all the parts tuned to work together. These are a big improvement over the "generic" cam in both performance and efficiency. Edlebrock does this with their "Performer" series of manifolds and cams. I`ve been very happy with their parts.
Anyway, back to tuning 8^)... Since you need peak VE to achieve peak torque, one method of cam tuning is to adjust the cam until you can peak up the cylinder pressure at the RPM you want the peak to occur. This is quite difficult to do in your garage, but there is a good, easy compromise. You truck wants peak torque at low RPM and cylinder pressure can be measured by a simple compression gauge. The idea is to tune the cam until peak compression pressure is obtained while cranking the starter (low RPM). This is best done when the motor is in the vehicle since you need to crank the starter and you need oil in the system. If you have hydraulic lifters, you need to assure that they are pumped up to operating pressure. An alternative is to substitute solid lifters for the test, but unless you have a set handy, this is expensive. Degree the cam to get an idea of where it is truly straight up versus where the manufacture ground it. Charge up your battery! Place the compression gauge in cylinder #1, open the carb butterflies full-open, and disconnect the fuel and spark systems. You don't want the motor to start up! =%^O
Crank the motor until the oil pressure comes up (hydraulic lifters) and the compression pressure peaks on the gauge. Write down this number. Advance the cam the minimum amount you can, this is where a 2 degree crank gear is handy or some of those offset keys and bushings. Test again and record. You want to move the cam timing around until the compression pressure peaks. If the cam was within several (2) degrees of spec when you installed it, I would not advance more than 6 degrees total. If you have a high lift cam and/or very high compression, you should monitor valve to piston clearence to avoid damage (keep at least 0.100 inches clearence!). For a stock motor with an RV type cam you should be quite safe. Once the peak pressure is achieved, button up the motor, you are finished. Simple eh?
If you are going to the trouble to do this tuning, a two degree crank gear and offset keys are very handy since they give you more positions to choose from. The keys allow one degree changes in timing. Chevys use bushings for the same effect. Don't be dismayed if the best position is with no advance, at least you confirmed that the manufacture did their grinding correctly!
CALMINI: Steve Kramer. 800-345-3305.
CalMini cam for George? - you'd be willing to do dyno work
• Since Steve doesn't think his Calmini Rodeo front skidplate will fit the Amigo, I'm open to suggestion
• solicit CALMINI plans column (new products - gears, revised products - lifts, expected catalog release date, etc)
• front diff. gears - 100 gear minimum
• mail Steve shackle URL
• forward False Authority Syndrome paper
• catalog expected out around first of year - 28 pages, new Rodeo lift
• mail steve the existing Digests
• link to CALMINI's online catalog
• CALMINI press releases (e.g. rear axle truss/skidplate, Rodeo skidplate, new Rodeo lift, V6 headers, etc.)
• two planned 'Zu Zoo events -- CALMINI banner, stickers, shirt, etc.
• header bolt flange for future making of own turbo header
Arnold Mahachek 10416 Leslie Court, Silver Spring, Maryland 20902.
I had looked at the 4.3L swap and went as far as getting a catalog from
Advanced Adapters. They have priced their transmission adapter at $1,100.
This seems pretty steep especially since the 2.6 conversion would be a
straight bolt up and I could use my old carb, AC, alternator, starter, and
wiring harness.
My work email address is changing, since I'm changing my
contract tech. writing from USCS to Intel. Please keep in touch
by using: randii@
You can also use the Off- pseudonyms:
randii@off- or isuzu@off-
Talk to you soon,
Randii
Randy Burleson, Editor
Isuzu Webpages at Off-
Go with Randy's setup. Mine is just a modified F-150 rollbar, 3" tubing.
Randy's is much better.
withdraw this week's $60
extra large cedar dog bed
lug nuts for Kammy's car
kammy's weird Geo footwell air leak
Kragens 16.99 solid rotors for Kamm's car
garage door deadbolt
clean inside 1989 Amigo
measure Amigo fuel tank fitting space
delay timing a bit
top off coolant / burp radiator
pick or pick up fruit
CNC pattern of the front of the stock automatic transfer case (steel pattern with center-bore plus 3 precise holes, rotational key, I can hand-drill 6 bolt holes in pattern plate and subsequent aluminum plates)
set up 220 garage outlets
install grounded outlet, box, and cover for office
measure garage space
• and plan garage sink, faucet, piping and electrical run for office washer/dryer
• use furnace filter to vent dryer into garage
• plan work-benches, storage, future garage side extension
Thursday
Greg, floor putty?
check Isuzu hitch availability at junkyard
Friday
mail bent tow hook to Wayne Sanaghan, 6041 Village Bend Drive, Apartment 2309, Dallas, TX 75206-3645
Monday
gather information for financial review
Tuesday
Joel financial advising 7:00pm
Friday
Carmichael Machine - Brian - splined shaft? 944-2853
There is a material known as "Ice Guard," which is used by roofing contractors. It is similar to Dynamat, both in thickness and density. It is self-adhesive on one side, and seems to work very well. Unfortunately, it is sold only in large quantities (225 ft^2 rolls), and runs about $70 for this much. Perhaps a few people could get together for a roll, or it might be possible to get scraps from a roofing contractor.
get the right dryer filter
big quantities of JB weld
wire brush/rasp t-case rear housing
glass of water and microwave, warm epoxy for easier pour
REI
talk to ORC higher-ups
• Louie's BFGoodrich takeoff
• ask highr ups about Weems' site purchase
• ask Dave about Quadratech advertising (soft top, cargo net)
clean office blinds
install office blinds
find trashed fenders for George and Fred
Fred Fitzgearld: the Fountains in San Jose, 373 River Oaks Circle #504, San Jose, CA 95134
George Reiswig: 2742 Buxton Street, Forest Grove OR, 97116
oil change
check the oil for water
spare fuel injectors - would get them back balanced and ultrasonically cleaned
Bettes Springs in San Leandro, CA
AFTER THAT
measure angle of transfer case output shaft again
1990 squeak - brakes, or pinion?
Link Weems and ITOG
> please point to users/~sweems/troopers/trooper.html (note the ~ in sweems)
link to CALMINI's online catalog
similar diameter, same inlet fuel injector - - same flow characteristic - possibly adjustable
bathroom fan: not a diode jumper where I have the current bridge wire - could do it with a relay to fire than fan
ALCAN springs:
I ordered directly from Alcan. The price was the same...$150ea / $300pr.
This did not include tax or shipping, but at least I do not have to deal
with that OTHER place. Alcan's number: (970) 241-2655.
1998
(Haynes Part #47017). Its the "Isuzu Rodeo & Amigo Honda Passport" manual, 1989 through 1997 (All models
list out big stuff to buy for hardware run
• 30" fire door
• baseboards
• garage sink and faucet
• tub traction tape
• weatherstripping
• 55 ft baseboard
While waiting for vacation to roll around so I have time to work on the head I have tried a product called Alumaseal. I am no longer loosing coolant and the white smoke on startup is gone. I will still be pulling the head to correct the problem. Are the heads available from Baker the same that you refer to? Is the use of Alumaseal going to cause other problems?
remove front output flange to mail to Lenco
mail shaft and inserts to Bruce at Lenco
use bearings to allign 2WD/4WD shaft (back bearing, front box)
number of fasteners Isuzu used for transfer case, then double
put up existing office cabinet moulding
need minimum 42" office cabinet trim
need minimum 20'8" office trim
refinish office floor mouldings
install office floor mouldings
reground bathroom clock switch
not a diode jumper where I have the current bridge wire - could do it with a relay to fire than fan
return Paul Miller's Lake Powell information with beer!
exchange spray gun
WAY AFTER THAT
Isuzu Mu Hardtop
|Auckland |Schofield & Co |(09) 520 6369 |
|Christchurch |Blackwell Motors |(033) 795 500 |
|Hamilton |Ebbett Waikato |(07) 838 0949 |
|Panmure |Moyes Motor Group |(09) 527 1200 |
|Hastings |Karamu Auto Court |(06) 876 6700 |
|Wellington |Williams & Adams |(04) 801 6777 |
remove 1990 AC discharge hose for reference
switch Geo tire onto new rim
test different e-brake extension springs
REI Boots?
retorque UZI's u-bolts
replace UZI's top radiator hose
check magazine about stock for floating shaft - minimum thickness for floating shaft 1.325 (3/4 ton truck axle shaft)
take slip yoke for comparison purposes
Cadillac driveshaft
Marc Davis Rubicon pix?
Super Trooper Rubicon pix?
rear pinion gets hotter than it should
find better way of fastening five inner crossmember fasteners
plan driveshaft -- compare different courses of action (bronco rear, bronco front, toy front)
look at 930 joints
shocks too long
drive the truck, then retorque u-bolts and lug nuts
test drive: balance brakes, check rear for bad noises
screw-closure chain links welded to diff housings for reverse winching
have AAA driveshaft measure front driveshaft requirements
finish-grind brake pivot stub
re-zip-tie the brake balancing valve
tack weld front right shock tower @ testfit shocks
testfit and mark shock towers
cut marked shock towers
drill shock towers
drill steering stops for shock mounts
lengthen 1990 AC discharge hose
cone-seat locknuts for wheel studs
align shock towers on either side of truck
paint shock tower
weld shock towers
forklift test droop and compression at Isuzu yard
• travel out the suspension each side front and check for interference
• check shackle/hangar interference up front
• check for interference at pumpkin, wheels, frame, shocks
• check wheel fit in wheelwell (full lock, full up-travel)
• add bumpstops
• rear shocks limiting
level truck with shackles/ multi-hole rear shackles
check leveling of truck F-to-R and L-to-R
paint roll cage
check 1989 brakes (swap on 1990 front pads)
spare u-joints?
bumpstop to prevent banging steering arm
check steering stabilizer for full travel
loctite front axle shackle bolts and pivots
loctite rear axle shackle bolts and pivots
check both differential's oil level
retorque u-bolts and lug nuts
tupperware/ammo can and heat-sink computer (with heat-conductive filler)
Print black Jeep pictures
rollbar information -- brainstorm words
PICTURE: emergency brake extension lever arms and twin-stick controller
PICTURE: my new exhaust
PICTURE: No soft-top: Roll Bar (pads, no pads)
PICTURE: No soft-top: detail of halo-rack supports
PICTURE: Overall picture of two roofrack configurations (long and short) showing pins
PICTURE: trooper shackles, amigo shackles, CALMINI shackles
PICTURE: clean/dirty oil
PICTURE: more on steering arm
PICTURE: reshoot ground frame
PICTURE: front bumper
PICTURE: side wrinkles
trim backsides of front body mounts / bumper mounts
photograph: new front shock towers installed, stock t-bar adjusters
Dave Gray
• JET Chips -- Gus Stewart 714-377-8898
• Isuzu junkyard
• dyno testing
• CALMINI press releases (e.g. rear axle truss/skidplate, Rodeo skidplate, new Rodeo lift, V6 headers, etc.)
• Start engaging product evaluation process: Rodeo skidplate, ARB locker, cam
onboard shower to heater hose
make grabber that bolts to bumper (maybe receiver?) and hi-lift jack -- prevent slippage
copy Isuzu manuals
install new front shocks
FINAL ASSEMBLE
1. thrust-align front wheels (space shackles, springs if necessary)
2. bump stops (interference at pumpkin, wheels, frame, shocks)
3. finalize brake line routing
4. center steering wheel
5. spare U-joint
FIX LATER
1. drag link collet or convert to 3/4 hardware
2. check tie rod ends and seals
3. heim seals
greasable shackle bolts - sleeve 5/8" OD to bushing ID
grind bottoms of solid steel front lower control arm mounts
grind and chisel bracket remnants inside of frame at rear lower control arm mounts
remove front lower skidplate, then grind off old Isuzu swaybar mounts
pressurized air into door drain holes
plug in 100 ohm resistor
Gift: Kammy slide projector and carousels
touch up front spring mount gusset welds
thread vent fittings into tranny/transfer case
front bumper end reinforcing - take off sharp edges
construct winch cradle: space between front receivers: 26", space between rear frame rails: 36"; frame width: 2.5"
construct new rear bumper
Isuzu Manual I have is Haynes 47020 (1641)
different speedo gears available? (mine is 30:1, probably smaller tires need smaller numbers, larger tires, larger numbers)
handle any credit report issues
isuzu MU white front marker lamps
update driver's license address
WEB
link from photos to individual projects
link from individual projects to photos
cross-pollinate to general ORC tech. page: breather, drytranny, flares, jetchip, shackle, waiver, springover
Carmichael Machine - Brian (8210 Fair Oaks past San Juan)
have floating shaft made up to bolt between stock Isuzu front flange and splined and bolted stock Isuzu front flange
If it is oil smoke (bluish white smoke that smells bad) then you are getting oil into one or more of the cylinders. If it is coolant (pure white steam that either smells like anti-freeze, or nothing at all), then you are getting coolant into the cylinders. Oil smoke will linger in the air longer, steam will dissipate faster.
If necessary, raise the head just enough to slide a new gasket in (don't have to fool with the timing belt in most cases when you do this)
A heavy rubberband will take care of this problem on the bent tow hook without compromising ground clearance.
Randy Burleson, Editor
Isuzu Webpages at Off-
newfie folks:
• Karen Canivari - Placerville - 647-1417
• Melanie Harris - Pollack Pines - 647-9735
LITTLE BUDDY OK WITH ALL DATES
RANDY CAN'T GO MAY 23-30 -- he'll be in Hawaii
Todd's first choice would be either the first or second weekend in May. Last year we did the Spike on the second Saturday in May and were the only four-wheeled vehicles on the trail. March is usually cool but the last weekend would be OK. Other dates that would be alright are May 15th or March 20th. Memorial Weekend is out.
Friday:
5/15/98 (George OK)
5/22/98 (George OK)
5/29/98 (George OK) Randy's #2 pref.
6/5/98 (George OK) Randy's #1 pref.
6/12/98 (George OK) Randy's #3 pref.
6/26/98
7/10/98
7/17/98
I have parts for sale from my 91 Amigo and 93 Amigo. I just converted the 91 2wd into a 4wd from the 93. Many different parts for sale, and will answer any questions about conversion.
If interested, email me at las2676@ or call me at (412) 652-5648
Delta Reservation # RADZBD
Total Price (including taxes): USD 146.00
FEBRUARY 06, 1998 - FRIDAY
DELTA AIR LINES
FLT: 1894 LEAVE: SACRAMENTO, CA 4:40 pm
EQP: 72S ARRIVE: SALT LAKE CITY, UT 7:08 pm
SEAT: 30A CONFIRMATION NUMBER: G9BH85
FEBRUARY 09, 1998 - MONDAY
DELTA AIR LINES
FLT: 543 LEAVE: SALT LAKE CITY, UT 8:10 pm
EQP: M90 ARRIVE: SACRAMENTO, CA 8:54 pm
SEAT: 16E CONFIRMATION NUMBER: G9BH85
|PAUL MCKIMMY |KAMMY sizes: Women's menium, 7/8, shoe 6.5 |
|a video game to share with us |dive certification - Folsom Scuba? |
|workout clothes |dive stuff |
|a dart board (picture of someone on it) |hard disk drive |
| |warm PJs |
|MEL MCKIMMY |easel |
|Victoria's Secret vanilla perfume |slat clock |
|workout clothes |oak toilet paper holder |
|a big cutting board (plastic) |weighted oak counter-top paper towel dispenser |
|Hawaii stuff? | |
| |RANDY sizes: pants 36 waist, 34/36 length (like loose fitting styles) |
| |amplified TV antenna |
| |cordless phone |
| |oak coat rack |
| |better sorter for mail |
| |90 degree air angle grinder |
| |compound miter slide saw |
| |U of M hat, sweatshirt, t-shirt (National Champs) |
| |climbing slings |
| |Toyota lock-rite differential for 1982 front axle |
| |barbequeue |
| |parts washer solvent pump |
| |12v utility flood lights (tractor supply house) |
| |large shop-vac |
| |2 meter shortwave radio |
| |Superwinch S9000 winch |
| |bean bag or floor crash chairs |
| |good sized truck fire extinguisher |
| |garage fire extinguisher |
| |router table |
| |hearth screen |
| |vise (minimum 5" jaws) |
| |hot water shower for truck |
| |6x9 rectangular off-road lights |
| |big-ass electric space heater |
Posted by Wayne Sanaghan on January 08, 1998 at 06:54:38:
The following is all the information I was able to find on all tops for the Amigo, both hard and soft. If you have any additional information, please stick on a reply.
The more we get, the better off we are.
+------------------------------------------------------+
| SOFT TOPS o|o
+------------------------------------------------------+
4West
-----------------------------------------------
Phone number: 1-800-854-WEST (9378)
Note: Web page lists only a few products. Can submit for catalog from web.
_____They will not have any new catalogs shipping out until spring.
Price: Bestop $319.95 (call for color options)
Quadratech Imports:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: Direct link to soft tops:
Price: Bestop $319.51 (black only--web page is incorrect).
_____Heavier construction than Kayline. Rear rail instead of exposed snaps.
_____Rear window zips out; can easily be replaced.
_____Kayline $249.50 (black or white) Other colors, $15 extra
Autostyles:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: Direct link to soft tops:
_____Sells many other things for Amigos like carpet kits & cargo liners.
_____Picture appears to be a Bestop
Price: Bestop (?) $367.95 See web page for all colors.
+------------------------------------------------------+
| HARD TOPS o |o
+------------------------------------------------------+
I saw only two companies with a rear defog. What might work is a small "horn" fan pointing up. There are aftermarket defoggers for windows, but they're tough to
install right.
Quadratech Imports:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
____Note: Direct link to hard tops:
____Price: Hard: $699.50
_________ Sliding side windows: $49.50
_________Roof Rack: $139.50
_________Colors: None listed, black pictured in ad.
Rally Tops:
--------------------------------------------------------------
___Note: No picture or information on Amigo hard tops. Call and they will send a photo.
___Phone: 800-664-8677
___Price: $795 -- Lifetime warrantee against cracking.
Features: Tinted windows, carpted headliner, two handles (one on each corner-- more durable)
_Options: Defogger ($85), Roof rack ($120), all colors.
Dealer Notes: Ralley makes tops by hand w/ multiple layers of solid fiberglass instead of stranded.
_________Automotive paint job instead of gel-coat finish.
Deepwoods, Inc:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
___Note: Sells only Hard Tops. Product Discription button lists more info.
___Price: $799 (Black or white)
Features: Tinted glass side windows standard, All glass used is D.O.T. approved tinted
_________safety glass. Side windows and hatch are mounted in anodized rust-proof
_________ frames. Hand laid Fiberglas with steel reinforcement
_Options: Sliding side windows, Luggage rack, sunroof, rear window defogger,
________rear wipers, custom or metallic colors. Factory installation is also available.
Good Deal Direct:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
___Note: Sells Glassline Hard Tops. No soft tops shown.
___Price: $699
Features: Sliding windows INCLUDED. Tinting. White/Black/Gray
_Options: None listed.
Top Flite:
--------------------------------------------------------------
___Note: Top flight is the commerical applications of Fleet Air.
___Alternate views at:
___Price: $895 As of Jan 1, 1998 ($795 before then)
Features: Wrapover (onto the top) side windows. Tinted windows. Colors: Just ask.
_Options: Roof rack available ($165).
4West
--------------------------------------------------------------
Note: See soft top information above for phone and catalog catalog info.
_____They sell the Top Flite hard top listed above. If you like the wrapround windows,
_____try these guys to see if they're running a sale. Otherwise, it's cheaper from the dealer.
Price: $959
Calmini:
--------------------------------------------------------------
Note: 800-345-3305. I heard they sell hard tops. I did not see them on their web site. You can call for an Isuzu catalog.
information gathered by Wayne Sanaghan, Wayne-Sanaghan@RTIS.
> I've been looking to put a rear locker on my 90 Amigo but research has
> shown that the only one available is the ARB for about $700. OUCH! Since
> this is a daily driving vehicle, I was really hoping to go with a
> Lock-Right but, unfortunately, they don't have one and probably won't until
> the end of 1998. What I'm looking for from the list is any experience
> others have had putting a locker or any other kind of traction-adding
> device on their Isuzu.
This is a question I hear often -- and one I've researched myself.
Here's what I've found:
Currently, there are two traction-adding differentials available for the
Isuzu corporate 12-bolt differential: the ARB Air-locker or the Tochigi
Fuji limited slip. That's all -- you can't buy a Lock-Rite, Detroit Locker,
or True-Trac for your Isuzu differential. You can, however, call them
and tell them you want their differential modified to fit into the Isuzu
differential.
American-made Rodeos were made with Dana 44 rear ends, and a
plethora of traction-adding differential options are available for this
differential. Lockers for Jeep or Bronco Dana 44's should drop right
in, but I only know of one in active use.
If you are willing to try a major change, the entire Dana 44 rearend
from the Rodeo would likely be a straight swap. If anyone is serious
about pursuing this, I'm interested in documenting it and I'll help with
procuring the Rodeo rear end.
Randy Burleson, Editor
Isuzu Webpages at Off-
When you are dealing with mechanical cams, setting the valve lash is a very important aspect of your engine.
The lash must be adjusted when the tappet is on the heel of the cam lobe. Remember that this is the lowest part of the lobe,
So the tappet is as far down in the bore as it will go. Since you can't see this when the heads are on, the way that you
determine when the tappet is in the proper spot to adjust is as follows;
Adjust the Intake valve lash when the EXHAUST valve begins to open, this will assure that the intake valve is on the heel
of the intake lobe.
Adjust the Exhaust valve when the INTAKE valve has just closed
> I was thinking about replacing the stock air box with a K&N
> filtercharger but,as we know, none are avalable for 2.6L Isuzu.
Wouldn't aftermarket support be grand?
> I have researched K&N's catalog and this is what I discovered.
> Universal filters are the same as "filterchargers" but about $125.00 less.
Yup -- that's what I figured as well. The filterchargers come with some
snazzy bracketry and some may also come with a MAF sensor --
but when I did mine I just found a K&N that would fit the side of the stock
MAF sensor that points away from the air cleaner. Some K&N's even have
provisions for the smog pump intake --- but I got one without. Mine is just
a big K&N sorta-cone-shaped filter, about 8" long, 4" diameter at the top,
6" at the bottom, with a 3" rubber throat on it that is a slip fit on the MAF
sensor outer diameter. A big hose clamp seals that off, and I customized
my own simple bracket after the filter flopped around my engine compartment
for a few months (with no damage).
> K&N has only one universal filter that I think will work--part #RC-3250
> Outside diameter is 5" at base,4" at the end and 6" long with a flange of
> 3 3/16th. List price is $50.00 and sounds like it will fit perfect.
Sounds very close to what I got. I got the biggest filter I could, reasoning
that the larger the filter media, the less restriction I'd have at the intake. Also,
a cone shaped filter makes the airflow 'bend' less than a traditional cylindrical
filter with filter media on the outer circumference of the cylinder.
> I will also need to filter the air pump inlet hose presently filtered at the
> stock air box.
As noted above, some of their filters come with such a fitting in place, opposite
the rubber throat. You could easily fabricate and seal something like this, so I
don't think its worth buying a separate filter. My '89 plugged into the airbox
like we're discussing, and my 1990 came stock witha separate filter, and the
airbox vent hole was plugged with a plastic fitting. A junkyard could easily yield
this setup, as well.
> I wonder why Camini has not done the same???
Good question -- I'll forward this to Steve at CALMINI -- all that would really be
required as far as I can see, is a bracket to hold the filter up and bolt it to some
of the holes left by removing the stock air box. Or maybe this somehow violates
CA smog rules? Dunno. CALMINI is a bunch of pretty sharp folks, so there's
probably some reason they haven't developed this yet.
> I am also working on the story about the fender flares--with pictures.
Great -- let me know how I can help make this happen! As noted before, I
can digitize your pictures, edit, or do HTML if you need any of that.
> Any info you would have on filters for 2.6L would be helpfull.
I'm also forwarding this to home -- I'll examine my K&N and see if it has a
part number printed on it. If not, I'll measure the dimensions. Either way,
I'll email you the results.
Looking forward to working with you,
Randii
Subject: RE: stock air box out K&N IN!
The K&N filter I'm using is one of their cone filters, and has B046A6 stamped into one of the rubber ends. The filter element measures 6" in diameter at one end, 4" in diameter at the other, and 9" from end to end -- the rubber coupler that attaches to the MAF sensor is extra length beyond that.
It all fits nicley behind the driver's headlight.
Yeah -- I have spoken with him at length on this, and always phrased things from
the "I don't know the magazine business, or really much about the internet, but
as a consumer, I'd like to see..." viewpoint (which rings true in some cases), but he
just thinks the world is out to get him. I'm working very hard to keep the Isuzu web
page of his shit list, but I think its inevitable that I'll somehow mis-step and land
there sooner or later. Instead of rebuffing claims with facts and his excellent
racing and engineering background, he just complains.
I definitely wouldn't leap to subscribe him, but dollars to donuts he'd subscribe
himself. My stance would be to defend his (or any) products based on their
merits and try to drill down and make people state the difference between their
opinions, facts, and what they've heard, but I'm not sure I have the time to do this
thoroughly if the list takes off to anywhere near the volume of the Suzook list.
I'm having fun getting those lower A-arms off the damn truck. The three quarter drive air gun I borrowed from my neighbor wouldn't budge one of the upper arm-to-fulcrum pin bolts, but his one inch drive gun did the trick handily. I think I'm returning the new half inch drive I bought and exchanging it for a three quarter drive. The driveshaft, shocks, crossmember, and brake lines are separated. If I can just get the A-arms off, the diff and halfshafts will drop down easily, without me taking off the hubs or disassembling the 'shafts. We'll see. It looks possible from the manual, but then it looked like I could just undo the bolts and remove the a-arms….
I got my keys – not sure if I told you. Thanks – I can quit biting my fingernails
again, thanks to the nailclips…
I'm updating you and listing things I need to do myself – thanks for being a
sounding board. Wish you were here – swearing to myself is less fun than
commiserating with a sympathetic peer – even if he's rolling on the floor
because of my tool (ab)use.
Uzi is currently bereft of any front suspension. Poor guy. He's sitting on my brand-
spankin' new 25.25" tall jackstands (the old ones weren't tall enough to slide the
straight axle under) with front leaf springs hanging down.
I had to cut the lower control arms to get them off – what a PITA. Those little 3"
cutoff wheels do cut pretty quickly, but four cuts on each side still took forever.
I'm not looking forward to taking the lower control arm bracketry off. Even with
a borrowed cutting torch, that's liable to take a while.
Things to do before test assembly:
1. Weld a 30 degree angled shim to the top of the steering arm, so that the
drag link slopes up toward the pitman arm, instead of down away from it.
(poor planning)
2. Redrill steering arm for 5/8" stud,
3. Remove pitman arm and drill for 5/8" stud. Reinstall.
Number 3 is the big issue – I'm having a hell of a time getting the pitman off to
do the drilling. If I can get the stock center link off, I night be able to drill the
Pitman while its still on the truck, but that is currently defying both my tie rod
and pitman removing tools. Tonight I'll be welding up a small jig to fit in both
tools that hoepfully will dturn the trick. If necessary, I can drop the whole
steering box, but I've already flushed the PS fluid two time is the same
number of months, and I'm not anxious to do it again. Any ideas in this
department would be most welcome.
Things to do before final assembly:
1.) Enlarge wheel throats.
2.) Grind the stock bracketry off the frame.
3.) Final heavy duty weld for tacked on front spring perches.
Number 2 should be especially entertaining because I just noticed that the engine
mounts are structurally tied in to the upper control arm mounts. It would be more
clean to take the upper control arm down to flush with the frme, but I may just
settle for scalping the lower control arms, which are the only ones that are
hugely in the way.
Trivial stuff remaining:
1.) Trim drag link threaded rod and outer sleeve to length
2.) Connect and bleed brakes
3.) Center steering wheel
4.) Buy new shocks
Cool. Will capture this for future web page usage – I was also hoping for a bit more details, but maybe it really was this straightforward – which makes me even more interested.
Disconnect the driveshafts.
Drain the fluids (less poundage with which to wrestle)
Disconnect the clutch linkage
1) Take off the old tranny.
Remove clutch
2) Change the rear main seal and throwout bearing.
Rear main seal manadatory, or did you, as I di d, just change the thing since you were close?
3) Install the special adapter to fit the Toyota pilot bearing in the
Isuzu crankshaft.
Provided with kit?
4) Cut the center crossmember to accommodate the new T-case (if
needed)
When would it not be needed? Template provided?
Cut holes in floorpan for new shifters. Template provided?
5) Grunt, swear, sweat, and prod until you have installed the new 230#
tranny assembly without the benefit of a tranny jack. (Note that the
new tranny makes it much easier to get to the bolts at the top of the
bellhousing.)
Hmmm – for my laziness factor, I'd want to install the tranny first and then throw up the t-cases. Again, less rwestling.
6) Mount the custom tranny mount to the T-case and the crossmember,
then bolt the crossmember in place.
Custom tranny mount? Provided? Plans? Maybe an adapted stock part?
7) Finish by mounting the starter, driveshafts, etc. Oh, yeah, then
there's the electricals (reverse and 4WD indicators) and the speedo
cable extension. No biggy.
This what you had in mind? Where need I expound?
Good outline – but I think if folks are seriously wanting to do the swap, they'll want to see the big (ugly) picture and get a clear scope of what's involved.
Myself, I am most intrested in cost. My time is less of a big deal. If you could ballpark component prices (maybe in the above step-by-step), that would be helpful for me, and maybe also for others. The writing stuff that I'm recording here is mostly for future web use (which I'd have you approve). My personal questions I could just call up and ask of you.
The dif is not useful to me, either. The bars might be...shaft might
be...what'd you have in mind?
I know that you have a spare differential assembly, but I thought you wanted the FWD center section for experimentation for cable-shifted locker and such. Or maybe to replace the one that you cut through and epoxied.
I'd like to hype up the relative value of each of these parts and generate a large cash flow, but between you, me, and the keyboard, none of the parts are really worth much more than core at the junkyard, and I really don't think anyone will buy the whole 'kit.' So basically, if you need or want spares….
Thanks for the info so far – keep it coming!
Randii
Thought you all might enjoy the update….
It steers! It stops! UZI is still on jackstands, but I'm getting the wheels hogged
out to slide over the toyota hub, and then I'm taking a test ride.
I have not yet cut off any of the stock control arm bracketry, but I can test
drive gently as proof of concept before I make that last step. Articulation at
the hub with the rear wheels on the flat garage floor and a floor jack under
a front set of u-bolts is 12" different from side to side at the hub – and I think
that only gets better as I weight the axle with wheels and crossed up truck
weight. Amigo front ends travel *maybe 6-8* inches stock, and with my
lift I'd been getting a maximum of 3-4 inches.
I pieced together the last part of the brakes last night, and I am SO happy
that I avoided hard lines and used all flexible stainless. This is SO much
easier than bending all that hard line. It was kinda pricey, but well worth it,
IMHO -- I now have braided stainless from the proportioning valve to 4 disks.
I also ground my calipers so that I could use my stock Isuzu wheels – but
I did test first on a core caliper I had laying around. Clearance between
tie rod boot and inner rim is TIGHT – I'll have to use tape-on wheel weights,
and keep a close eye on that rim. Less than an eight inch extra room there.
I could use wheelspacers, but then I'd have to use longer lug studs. I'll see
if this will hold together first. It should really test out those urethane tie rod
end boots. If somewhere down the line I do get steel wheels, I'll be looking
for a slightly different offset.
I've settled on a wheelbase about 1.5" longer than stock – that gives plenty
of clearance to the oilpan (of this engine and, say, the 302 Ford and 4.3
Chev that I measured at the junkyard), moves the wheels forward away
from the rears of the wheelwells, and puts the spring front hangars almost
at the very end of my frame extensions. I think this is the best balance for
packaging space and maximizing approach angle. This may still change –
I can move 1 inch further forward or up to 4 inches backwards. The slightly
longer wheelbase will be more than balanced by the tighter turning abilility
of the Toy axle – though I wish I knew what the maximum angle should be
kept to for keeping Birfields healthy. Jack? Jay?
I still haven't figured shock towers – and don't think I'll be able to do that
until I get some of the stock control arm bracketry out of the way. I am
still planning to make my own out of braced u-channel, but shock hoops
are enother option (if my wheelwell can accommodate them in the
turning arc inside the wheel)
I have decided to run with the stock Toy springs short term – minus their
lowest leaf. Articulation (estimated with my floor jack) looks acceptable,
and I'm talking to as many folks as I can to find out about aftermarket
springs. For this specific of an application (left arch different than right,
flat leaves, different nose weight than Toy), I may be well served by just
biting the bullet and pouring the money out to National. I know they
stand behind their products.
Thanks for all the help, guys.
Randii
> I've gone ahead with a custom air-intake system (fitted by a local
> mechanic). It's a cone filter with a custom tube. Looks quite nice.
I designed my own that sounds similar, and I was very pleased with the
improvements relative to the stock restrictive nest-of-snakes system.
One of the things I plan to document at Off- is intake changes
such as this, and I'd love to post pictures of a different implementations.
If you can shoot the photo and get it developed, I can scan it and post it
if you wish.
> Performance has definately improved, I feel.
Mine was empirically measurable, but it is still a fairly small change, and
my Amigo, dragging all the armor and bigger tires around, is still pretty
slow.
> Gear shifting is the key.
I do my testing over the same slightly uphill chunk of highway, staying in
one gear, clicing my stopwatch when the speedo swings past 30mph,
reading off 5 mph increments into a small recorder, and stopping the
watch at 75 mph -- this takes my shifting skill out of the equation. This gives
me repeatable times and pretty decent data. I wish I had one of those G-tech
accelerometers, tho.
> I had a question though: while testing my Rodeo I noticed the
> passenger side rear wheel spinning on gassing the vehicle and
> not the driver side. Is this something to do with my suspension?
Well, I'm not completely sure, but that's what happens on my truck as well,
though I don't often spin my 33x12.5 tires. The 31x10.5's smoke much easier.
My theory is that engine torque twists the truck away from that tire, so that
the load to the pavement is less on that side. Since I have an open differential,
only one wheel will spin, and it makes sense to me that it is the more lightly
loaded wheel.
> I'm now looking at a free flow exhaust muffler. I'll see how that works out.
That was a great modification for me, too. Not only was I able to cut the
weight of the exhaust sytem by more than half, I ended up with a short straightline
exhaust run with larger diameter pipe. 2.25" worked best for me, though I did try
3", 2.5" and 2" diameters as well. This may be different on your Rodeo if you have
the V6. I encourage you to find a local exhaust shop that bends their own tubing
and can fabricate an exuast for scratch for you -- IMHO there's no need to match
the routing of the overly restrictive stock system. Having said that, Calmini may
have a header which fits your truck -- I've been happy with mine. I don't mean to
pimp ALL of their products, but I'm definitely happy with their header -- better
power across the range, but especially good down low.
This exhaust work can be done on a budget: my header, cat, muffler, and all my
bending, totalled $350. Not bad, considering $200 of that was header.
>Experiences so far with the air-intake system:
Can I have your permission to save this text for future inclusion on the Intake article?
You write well and this is much more through than my hazy memory of that modification
could have recalled.
Randii
----------
From: ravi kohli[SMTP:rkohli@iscp.]
Sent: Friday, August 22, 1997 6:07 AM
To: Burleson, Randy
Subject: Re: Rodeo performance mods
Haven't really found any informative websites for Rodeo perf. mods.
Thanks for your info.
I've gone ahead with a custom air-intake system (fitted by a local
mechanic). It's a cone filter with a custom tube. Looks quite nice.
Performance has definately improved, I feel. I've tried to test 0-60
times withan acceleromenter. With my launching techniques, I'm getting
10.4 sec which is bad. My friend (driving for me) who is more
experienced got 9.8 sec and lesser. I still need a little more testing.
Edmunds perf. data in their web page says 10.0 flat for a stock
vehicle.I'm still guessing. Need some more times to average out the
readings. Gear shifting is the key. I had a question though: while
testing my Rodeo I noticed the passenger side rear wheel spinning on
gassing the vehicle and not the driver side. Is this something to do
with my suspension? I could judge the wheels
spinning from the track marks on the road. I'm now looking at a free
flow exhaust muffler. I'll see how that works out.
Experiences so far with the air-intake system:
Installation - The engine wouldn't start up without the air veliocity
meter. Diameter of the circular edges of the velocity meter were tricky
to fit with the tube of my air filter. Had to use a section of the
factory hose to on one end of the vm. The cone fitted snuggly on the
other end of the velocity meter. Needed a little bracket to anchor the
whole assembly to the engine comartment. Regular clamps did the trick
securing the rubber tube joints. There is enough room in the engine
comprtment to keep the cone away from most of the hot air around the
radiator fan. Placement I think is quite good.
Problems: One of the clamps loosened itself, popping out the filter
tube, stalling the vehicle while launching the vehicle hard on a 0-60
test. :-(. But just popped it back in, and tightened the clamps.
Probably were loose to start with. The vehicle started fine. Overall no
problems
Goodies: Acceleration seems improved even though I haven't got an
accurate assessment of increased perf. Looks wise, the air intake
assembly looks great. Accelerator response is certainly better.
-ravi
96 Rodeo S
randy_burleson@ wrote:
>
> Calmini is your best bet for Isuzu mods -- I edit the Isuzu page
> at Off- and we're working to document Isuzu modifications.
> Check the site out at:
>
>
> Keep in touch -- I'd love to know what works for you, and share that on
> the webpage. Details of some of the project vehicle setups are at:
>
>
> Randii
> I've gone ahead with a custom air-intake system (fitted by a local
> mechanic). It's a cone filter with a custom tube. Looks quite nice.
I designed my own that sounds similar, and I was very pleased with the
improvements relative to the stock restrictive nest-of-snakes system.
One of the things I plan to document at Off- is intake changes
such as this, and I'd love to post pictures of a different implementations.
If you can shoot the photo and get it developed, I can scan it and post it
if you wish.
> Performance has definately improved, I feel.
Mine was empirically measurable, but it is still a fairly small change, and
my Amigo, dragging all the armor and bigger tires around, is still pretty
slow.
> Gear shifting is the key.
I do my testing over the same slightly uphill chunk of highway, staying in
one gear, clicing my stopwatch when the speedo swings past 30mph,
reading off 5 mph increments into a small recorder, and stopping the
watch at 75 mph -- this takes my shifting skill out of the equation. This gives
me repeatable times and pretty decent data. I wish I had one of those G-tech
accelerometers, tho.
> I had a question though: while testing my Rodeo I noticed the
> passenger side rear wheel spinning on gassing the vehicle and
> not the driver side. Is this something to do with my suspension?
Well, I'm not completely sure, but that's what happens on my truck as well,
though I don't often spin my 33x12.5 tires. The 31x10.5's smoke much easier.
My theory is that engine torque twists the truck away from that tire, so that
the load to the pavement is less on that side. Since I have an open differential,
only one wheel will spin, and it makes sense to me that it is the more lightly
loaded wheel.
> I'm now looking at a free flow exhaust muffler. I'll see how that works out.
That was a great modification for me, too. Not only was I able to cut the
weight of the exhaust sytem by more than half, I ended up with a short straightline
exhaust run with larger diameter pipe. 2.25" worked best for me, though I did try
3", 2.5" and 2" diameters as well. This may be different on your Rodeo if you have
the V6. I encourage you to find a local exhaust shop that bends their own tubing
and can fabricate an exuast for scratch for you -- IMHO there's no need to match
the routing of the overly restrictive stock system. Having said that, Calmini may
have a header which fits your truck -- I've been happy with mine. I don't mean to
pimp ALL of their products, but I'm definitely happy with their header -- better
power across the range, but especially good down low.
This exhaust work can be done on a budget: my header, cat, muffler, and all my
bending, totalled $350. Not bad, considering $200 of that was header.
>Experiences so far with the air-intake system:
Can I have your permission to save this text for future inclusion on the Intake article?
You write well and this is much more through than my hazy memory of that modification
could have recalled.
Randii
Here's the nitty gritty. I know you have a manual, so you should find
the appropriate wiring diagrams and make sure you're checking the
right wires.
There are a pair of large, square connectors in the harness on the
passenger side near the fuse box. On mine, one of them is black, the
other blue. The Black one is the one I am interested in, as this
contains the leads (ground and hot) for the Coolant Temperature
Sensor. What I advise doing is to take out your ohmeter when you get
home, check your manual, and perform the test procedure outlined in
the section on testing the coolant temp sensor. When your engine is
warm, the resistance across those terminals should be pretty low,
around 300-400 ohms. Then, let it cool for a couple of hours, and
check the same terminals. The resistance should have gone up, to
perhaps 2000 ohms. If so, then you can rest assured that you've got
the proper wires.
Cut the ground (black) wire in one place. Doesn't matter where.
You'll be splicing in a 120 ohm resistor (it can be as low as 1/8th
watt since it doesn't carry any current to speak of). Slip a piece of
shrink tubing over one of the open wires, then shorten the leads on
the resistor so that there is about 3/8ths inch of lead on both sides.
Then solder it in.
Keep an ear on your engine idle in the near future, particularly when
coasting and after the engine has had a chance to get pretty darn hot,
as in traffic. You know when you ordinarily have had problems. Let
me know if this has any effect on the idle surging.
GR
UZI now stands proudly on his own four wheels, wearing a miraculously correct-length rear driveshaft, awaiting his trip to the shop for a matching front shop.
Thanks much for your assistance calculating the driveshaft length, as usual, your experience made it much easier to do the job at this end. Thanks!
Now all I need to do is some fine grinding on the rear pinion yoke to accomodate my (brace yourself) 22 degree at-rest driveshaft angle. My driveline guy assures me that u-joints can live that long in that environment as long as vibrations are minimized. The clamp-on spring saddles made adjusting the pinion angle quite painless. One of these u-joints is a short term solution, anyway, since a Toyota transfer case (however I get to that end) requires a flange yoke up front and an integral slip-yoke. If I've thrashed a u-joint in that short of time, I'll just rotate the pinion up and punt to a CV shaft.
UZI's brakes are also at 100%, with some final twiddling required to balance them front to rear. All of those braided stainless lines have given me the hardest pedal I've felt in *any* vehicle -- no cush, no slop, nada. No line hanges below the frame, and at each axle, the line runs along the top of the driver's side leaf spring, to a t-joint atop the spring and u-bolts, from which it splits left to right. I won't be snagging these babies.
A quick trip to the salvage yard Friday (the day they send out their scrap) netted me the complete aluminum casings for the transmission and transfer case. Cost me a 12 pack of pepsi -- what a deal. Prototyping may actually get an early start, since I may run down to Fresno this weekend to see Marlin on Friday night and run a trail on Saturday. That would be WAY cool. He's said that he'd like to see the aluminum casings and a main output shaft before he recommends a specific model of Toyota transfer case, splined-sleeve coupler, or intermediate (between stock transfer/tranny) plate. All I need to make that visit is a rear output shaft, and I can borrow that even if I can't acquire one free and clear by Friday.
I'd also like to ask him how to zero in on making the housing's shaft centerlines overlap as perfectly as possible. Some marine references I looked at this weekend specify a maxim non-concentricity of five thousandths. Wow. George, how did you determine the centerline of the shaft and then set about lining them up? It would seem that your application allows a little bit more slop, with the clutch plate, but you still had to get the tolerances CLOSE!
Is Samson also standing unencumbered by jack stands?
Randii
Subject:
project '85 Trooper II
Date:
Mon, 15 Dec 1997 17:00:00 -0500
From:
"Israel Engle - Downes Associates, Inc."
Reply-To:
To:
Dear Sirs:
I have recently purchased a 1985 Isuzu Trooper II (2 door, 2.3l, A/C, 5spd,
4WD, Autolock hubs) with 197k miles. Yes, I know this is a lot of miles,
but the truck is straight, fairly clean, and has minimal rust. And I even
drove it home! Anyway, this is to be my project Trooper -- to make a
capable mud/beach 4WD that is still road-capable. I have already begun the
engine removal for a complete rebuild and plan to follow suit with the rest
of the truck.
Are you looking for a project vehicle like mine? If not, do you have any
suggestions for good Isuzu 4WD parts suppliers/mfg's?
Thank you for your time.
Israel Engle
7234 State Street
Willards, MD 21874
Subject:
Turbo Trooper
Date:
Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:08:27 -0600
From:
"Kurt."
To:
Would you be interested in a project to Turbo charge a
2.6 L 4 cyl '89 Trooper? Initial inspections indicate
I can do it fairly cheep. My only stumbling blocks
right now are:
A. I need to find an adequate exhaust manifold (I'm
looking at other Isuzu products for one. If not, I'll
have to make one. That will increase the cost/effort
factor.)
B. It is my daily driver (Although, I have other
options.)
Do you know of anyone already doing it?
Kurt.
Kurt Eibell
914 Belle Valley Dr
Belleville, IL 62220
618-236-7304
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