Centennial Animal Hospital - Welcome to Centennial Animal ...



LIST OF TOPICS FOR

YOUR PUPPY’S THIRD VISIT

Age Comparison Chart

Gentle Leader

Neuter Fact Sheet

Canine Neuter: What to Expect on Surgery Day

Ovariohysterectomy (Spay) Fact Sheet

Canine Ovariohysterectomy: What to Expect on Surgery Day

Pre-Anaesthetic Testing Information

Socialization Visits

Lifestage Wellness Testing

Wellness Testing

Flip the Lip (a healthy mouth means a healthy pet)

The Obesity Epidemic

Gastrointestinal Foreign Bodies

Top 5 Things You Should Know About Pet Food

How to Recognize Pain in Your Dog

Newly Emerging Diseases in Ontario as of 2019

AGE COMPARISON CHART

How old is my pet, really?

|Pet’s Age |Estimated Equivalent Age in Human Years |

| |Cats |Dogs |

| Small/Medium |

|Large Breed |

|Giant Breed |

|1 |7 |7 |8 |9 |

|2 |13 |14 |16 |18 |

|3 |20 |21 |24 |26 |

|4 |26 |27 |31 |34 |

|5 |33 |34 |38 |41 |

|6 |40 |42 |45 |49 |

|7 |44 |47 |50 |56 |

|8 |48 |51 |55 |64 |

|9 |52 |56 |61 |71 |

|10 |56 |60 |66 |78 |

|11 |60 |65 |72 |86 |

|12 |64 |69 |77 |93 |

|13 |68 |74 |82 |101 |

|14 |72 |78 |88 |108 |

|15 |76 |83 |93 |115 |

|16 |80 |87 |99 | |

|17 |84 |92 |104 | |

|18 |88 |96 |109 | |

|19 |92 |101 | | |

|20 |96 |105 | | |

|21 |100 |109 | | |

|22 |104 |113 |PEDIATRIC | |

|23 |108 | |ADULT | |

|24 |112 | |SENIOR | |

|25 |116 | |GERIATRIC | |

GENTLE LEADER HEAD HALTER

The Gentle Leader head halter is an essential tool in canine behaviour management. A head halter allows you to control your dog in a humane, effective, natural way. Being able to control your dog means that you will be able to enjoy time spent walking with your dog, and not be frustrated by pulling and jumping and other unruly behaviour. The Gentle Leader can be used on almost all breeds of dogs, no matter their size. The best time to start with a Gentle Leader is when your dog is a puppy, but no dog is too old to learn.

The Gentle leader is made up of two connecting loops of soft nylon: one loop fits high on the neck, the other one goes over the muzzle of the dog. Each loop is individually adjusted to fit your dog. The leash is attached to a ring under the dog’s chin. The Gentle Leader is NOT a muzzle - your dog will still be able to eat, drink, pant, bark and even bite while fitted with a Gentle Leader. You will, however, be able to keep the dog’s mouth closed if necessary using upwards pressure on the leash.

Dogs have a natural instinct to resist pressure; this is called the opposition reflex. If you pull on a traditional collar, the dog will naturally pull forward, away from you. Not only does this hurt your arms and risk an accident, it may actually hurt the dog by causing damage to the sensitive areas of the neck and throat. Pulling on leash is very rewarding to dogs because of this reflex, and also because they eventually get where they want to go! Because the Gentle Leader fits high on the neck, damaging pressure to the throat is avoided. When a dog pulls with a Gentle Leader on, the pull is felt on the top of the muzzle and on the back of the neck (vs. the front of the throat with a traditional collar). The opposition reflex tends to make the dog pull LESS, not more.

Almost every dog and owner can enjoy success with the Gentle Leader. Most owners are just happy to have a nice walk with their dog, but the Gentle leader can also be used inside the house to help control such obnoxious behaviours as jumping up, chewing, barking and so on. The most important elements for successful head halter training include:

1. Ensure that the head halter is properly fitted and introduced to your dog. If the Gentle

Leader is too tight or too loose, your dog will not accept the halter as readily. Pairing the halter with “good things” such as food, walks and playtime will help promote acceptance.

2. Motivate your dog to succeed. The Gentle Leader is a very effective training tool, but you and your dog will progress faster if you give your dog a reason to perform the desired behaviours.

3. React quickly. Dogs learn much more rapidly if the consequences of their actions are immediate. A quick sit on cue should earn a quick cookie, just as failure to sit on cue should earn a quick upwards pull (not jerk) on the leash.

4. Release tension on the leash as soon as the desired behaviour is performed. Constant pressure on the head halter is uncomfortable, and will cause the dog to fuss

CANINE NEUTER FACTSHEET

Sterilization of male dogs is performed by removing both testicles through an incision in the skin just in front of the scrotum. Neutering, also known as castration, is a moderately invasive surgery requiring general anaesthesia. At Centennial Animal Hospital, we consider this surgery to be part of basic health care for your male dog, and we make every effort to ensure that the procedure goes smoothly.

Centennial Animal Hospital recommends that male dogs be neutered between 6 and 12 months of age, depending on the size and breed of the dog.

Benefits of Neutering.

Neutered dogs are less likely to roam, or to be aggressive with other dogs.

Neutered dogs are less likely to mark their territory... indoors or out.

Neutering will eliminate the possibility of testicular cancer.

Neutered dogs almost never develop tumours of the anal area, prostatic disease (except prostatic cancer, which may occur in both intact and neutered dogs), or perineal hernias.

Sterilization obviously eliminates the possibility of your dog fathering unwanted litters of puppies. Millions of unwanted pets are euthanized every year in North America. Responsible pet owners take this fact very seriously and do everything in their power to help eliminate pet overpopulation.

Are There Any Downsides to the Surgery?

Removal of the testicles often leads to a drop in metabolic rate. This means that your dog will need less food to maintain a healthy body condition. If you do not reduce food intake after the surgery, weight gain may result.

Any surgical procedure carries some risk. At Centennial Animal Hospital, we believe that, through careful preparation, use of the safest available anaesthetics, and constant patient monitoring, the risk is very, very small.

CANINE NEUTER

WHAT TO EXPECT ON

SURGERY DAY

1. Your dog is admitted the morning of his surgery. He will be weighed, and you will have a chance to ask any last-minute questions as we go over the Surgical Consent forms. Your dog may have access to water, but don't forget- no breakfast! Please allow 20 minutes for this appointment.

2. Once your dog is admitted to the hospital, the veterinarian who will be performing the surgery will do a pre-surgical examination. This examination includes (but is not necessarily limited to) listening to the heart and lungs, taking the temperature, looking for external parasites, checking mucous membrane (gum) colour and assessing hydration status. Pre-anaesthetic bloodwork (strongly recommended) is performed at this time, unless it was already completed (preferred).

3. The first stage of anaesthesia is the administration of a pre-anaesthetic sedative. This injection calms your pet, as well as helping to control respiratory secretions.

4. After your dog is relaxed and calm, an intravenous (IV) catheter is placed, usually in a front leg vein (you will see a small shaved area on the leg). This catheter allows for the administration of medication, as well as IV fluids, which are an important part of maintaining blood pressure and circulation under anaesthesia. A calculated dose of an intravenous anaesthetic is administered through the catheter.

5. Once your dog is sleepy enough (usually a matter of seconds), an endotracheal tube is placed in the trachea. This tube allows for the delivery of oxygen and the gas anaesthetic isoflurane (one of the safest of the inhalant anaesthetics), which maintains anaesthesia for as long as required. The endotracheal tube also protects the airways from foreign material, as anaesthesia temporarily inhibits the swallowing reflex.

6. The surgical site is shaved, vacuumed and scrubbed in preparation for sterile surgery by the veterinary technician assigned to care for your dog. A local anaesthetic may be injected to control pain.

7. Meanwhile, the surgeon is also getting ready for surgery. After doing a surgical hand scrub, the surgeon dons a sterile gown and surgical gloves. All of the surgery team wear caps and masks during surgery.

8. A separate sterile surgical pack and surgical drapes are used for each patient.

9. After being moved into the surgical suite, your dog is placed on a warming blanket, and connected to the surgical monitors. A veterinary technician also remains in the surgical suite throughout the surgery. We monitor heart rate, respiratory rate, blood pressure, blood oxygenation, mucous membrane colour, and depth of anaesthesia. Additional pain medication is administered during the procedure.

10. An incision is made in the skin, between the scrotum and the prepuce. The incision may be anywhere from one to two inches long, depending on the size of the dog. The blood vessels supplying each testicle are ligated (tied off), and the testicles are removed. Rarely, one or both testicles may be out of their normal position (cryptorchid), and additional incisions may be required.

11. The incision is sutured (closed in several layers). These layers of suture are absorbable (they will dissolve over time). Suture removal is generally not necessary.

12. Once the procedure is complete, the anaesthetic gas is turned off, and your dog starts to wake up. The technician stays with your dog until he is awake enough to have his endotracheal tube and IV catheter removed and to be transferred to the recovery kennels, where he is wrapped in a warmed blanket. The recovery kennels are constantly monitored.

13. Once you pet is fully awake, he is taken to his day kennel, where he is fed, watered, walked and loved until it is time to go home later that day. Additional pain medication is given as needed.

14. Once your pet is awake, the veterinary technician will call you with an update on your pet's condition and will schedule a discharge appointment. At the appointment, the technician will go over the home care instructions with you. Please allow 20 minutes for this appointment.

CANINE OVARIOHYSTERECTOMY FACT SHEET

Sterilization of female dogs is performed by removing both the ovaries and the uterus through an incision in the abdominal wall. Ovariohysterectomy, also known as "spaying", is major surgery, requiring general anaesthesia and an overnight hospital stay. At Centennial Animal Hospital, we consider this surgery to be part of basic health care for your female dog, and we make every effort to ensure that the procedure goes smoothly.

Centennial Animal Hospital recommends that most female dogs be spayed at about 6 months of age before the first heat cycle. However, this may depend on the breed and size of your dog, so your veterinarian will discuss the best timing of this surgery with you.

Benefits of Sterilization.

Female dogs who are sterilized early in life, before the first heat cycle, have a ~0% chance of developing mammary (breast) cancer. Intact females have a lifetime mammary cancer risk of up to 50%. Many mammary tumours are malignant, and can be fatal. Even older females can benefit from a reduction in mammary cancer risk, although the effect is not so great.

Removal of the ovaries and uterus eliminates the possibility of cancer in these organs.

Removal of the ovaries and uterus eliminates the possibility of pyometra, a potentially life-threatening infection of the uterus (pyometra means "pus in the uterus").

Intact females normally come into heat about every 6 months, from puberty well into old age, with each heat lasting about three weeks. This is messy and inconvenient, and is always accompanied by the risk of unplanned pregnancy.

Sterilization obviously eliminates the possibility of unwanted litters of puppies. Complications from pregnancy and delivery are also eliminated. Millions of unwanted pets are euthanized every year in North America. Responsible pet owners take this fact very seriously and do everything in their power to help eliminate pet overpopulation.

Are There Any Downsides to the Surgery?

Removal of the ovaries often leads to a drop in metabolic rate. This means that your dog will need less food to maintain a healthy body condition. If you do not reduce food intake after the surgery, weight gain may result.

Any surgical procedure carries some risk. At Centennial Animal Hospital, we believe that, through careful preparation, use of the safest available anaesthetics, and constant patient monitoring, the risk is very, very small.

CANINE OVARIOHYSTERECTOMY (spay)

WHAT TO EXPECT ON

SURGERY DAY

1. Your dog is admitted the morning of her surgery. She will be weighed, and you will have a chance to ask any last-minute questions as we go over the Surgical Consent forms. Your dog may have access to water, but don't forget- no breakfast! Please allow 20 minutes for this appointment.

2. Once your dog is admitted to the hospital, the veterinarian who will be performing the surgery will do a pre-surgical examination. This examination includes (but is not necessarily limited to) listening to the heart and lungs, taking the temperature, looking for external parasites, checking mucous membrane (gum) colour and assessing hydration status. Pre-anaesthetic bloodwork (strongly recommended) is performed at this time, unless it was already completed (preferred).

3. The first stage of anaesthesia is the administration of a pre-anaesthetic sedative. This injection calms your pet, as well as helping to control respiratory secretions.

4. After your dog is relaxed and calm, an intravenous catheter (IV) is placed, usually in a front leg vein (you will see a small shaved area on the leg). This catheter allows for the administration of medication, as well as IV fluids, which are an important part of maintaining blood pressure and circulation under anaesthesia. A calculated dose of an intravenous anaesthetic is administered through the catheter.

5. Once your dog is sleepy enough (usually a matter of seconds), an endotracheal tube is placed in the trachea. This tube allows for the delivery of oxygen and the gas anaesthetic isoflurane (one of the safest of the inhalant anaesthetics), which maintains anaesthesia for as long as required. The endotracheal tube also protects the airways from foreign material, as anaesthesia temporarily inhibits the swallowing reflex.

6. The surgical site is shaved, vacuumed and scrubbed in preparation for sterile surgery by the veterinary technician assigned to care for your dog.

7. Meanwhile, the surgeon is also getting ready for surgery. After doing a surgical hand scrub, the surgeon also dons a sterile gown and surgical gloves. All of the surgery team wear caps and masks during surgery.

8. A separate sterile surgical pack and surgical drapes are used for each patient.

9. After being moved into the surgical suite, your dog is placed on a warming blanket, and connected to the surgical monitors. A veterinary technician also remains in the surgical suite throughout the surgery. We monitor heart rate, respiratory rate, blood pressure, blood oxygenation, mucous membrane colour, and depth of anaesthesia. Additional pain medication is administered during the procedure.

10. An incision is made in the abdominal wall, between the umbilicus (belly button) and the pelvis. The incision may be anywhere from one to six inches long, depending on the size of the dog. The blood vessels supplying the ovaries and the uterus are ligated (tied off), and the whole reproductive tract is removed.

11. The incision is sutured closed in several layers. These layers of suture are generally absorbable (they will dissolve over time). The skin layer is sutured or surgical staples may be used. Skin sutures and staples need to be removed, usually 7-10 days after surgery.

12. Once the procedure is complete, the anaesthetic gas is turned off, and your dog starts to wake up. The technician stays with your dog until she is awake enough to have her endotracheal tube and IV catheter removed and to be transferred to the recovery kennels, where she is wrapped in a warmed blanket. The recovery kennels are constantly monitored.

13. Once your pet is fully awake, she is taken to her overnight kennel, where she is fed, watered walked and loved until it is time to go home the next day. Additional pain medication is given as needed.

14. You will receive an update from the veterinary technician once your pet is awake from the anaesthesia. She will schedule a discharge appointment with you the following day. At this appointment, the technician will go over the home care instructions with you. If there are skin sutures to be removed, she will also set up a suture removal appointment in 7-10 days. Please allow 20 minutes for both the discharge appointment and the suture removal appointment.

PRE-ANAESTHETIC

TESTING INFORMATION

Your pet is scheduled for a procedure that requires anaesthesia. We would like to take this opportunity to recommend pre-anaesthetic blood testing and explain why it is important to the health of your pet.

Like you, our greatest concern is the well-being of your pet. Before placing your pet under anaesthesia, the veterinarian will perform a physical examination to identify any existing medical conditions that could complicate the procedure and compromise the health of your pet.

Because there is always the possibility a physical exam will not identify all of your pet’s health problems, we strongly recommend that a pre-anaesthetic profile (a combination of blood tests) be performed prior to anaesthesia. The tests we recommend are similar to and equally as important as those your own physician would run if you were to undergo anaesthesia.

It is important to understand that a pre-anaesthetic profile does not guarantee the absence of anaesthetic complications. It may, however, greatly reduce the risk of complications as well as identify medical conditions that could require treatment in the future.

The combination of blood tests we recommend for the apparently healthy younger pet is listed below.

1. Creatinine, Alanine Aminotransferase (ALT), Glucose - (giving us valuable information about the kidneys, liver, and blood sugar)

2. PCV, total protein (looking for anemia, assessing hydration + protein level)

Another benefit of these blood tests performed when your pet is healthy, is to provide baseline values for comparison with tests performed later in life.

SOCIALIZATION VISITS

Why are Socialization Visits recommended?

We recommend that puppies come to the hospital on a monthly basis during their first 12 months of life for 2 reasons:

1. We want your puppy to have frequent, positive experiences at our hospital to earn your puppy’s trust and decrease any fears your puppy may have with respect to unfamiliar environments and new faces.

2. We wish to provide increased opportunity for communication so any concern you may have about your pet can be addressed in a timely manner.

When are Socialization Visits recommended?

Not all puppies require socialization visits, as some puppies are naturally relaxed when exposed to new environments and experiences. If we recommend socialization visits for your puppy, they should ideally occur monthly between the Third Puppy Visit and the First Birthday.

What will I expect at the Socialization Visit?

You will be greeted by a Veterinary Technician, who will do the following:

1. Weigh your puppy and score it on the “Body Condition Scoring” scale.

2. Trim your puppy’s nails if required and if it can be done without upsetting your puppy.

3. Initiate a brief handling and play session.

4. Address any behavioural or health issues you may have, and schedule a follow-up appointment with a veterinarian if necessary (regular fees will apply).

Do I have to book an appointment?

Yes. We want to ensure a Veterinary Technician will be available.

What is the fee?

Each one of these socialization visits will be free of charge. We strongly believe that positive experiences early on in life will influence the way your pet reacts in the future. It is in the best interest of our patients, their owners, and our team to create adult pets that are as comfortable as possible in our hospital environment.

If your puppy has additional health or behavioural concerns, however, a separate appointment will be scheduled and standard charges will apply.

LIFESTAGE WELLNESS TESTING

Different breeds and individuals age at variable rates, but in general, your pet’s age can also indicate their lifestage:

Puppy or Kitten = under 1 year

Adult = 1-6 years

Mature = 7+ years

Larger breeds tend to age more quickly than smaller breeds, and certain breeds or individuals are more predisposed to particular diseases. Your veterinarian will consider these factors when making wellness testing recommendations for your pet.

When planning your pet’s wellness care, we will generally

follow the guidelines below for wellness testing:

|Recommended Test |Lifestage |WHEN? |

| | | |

|Fecal testing |All |Yearly |

|Heartworm testing |All |Yearly or every other year |

|(may be combined with tests | |(in dogs, dependent on lifestyle risk) |

|for other diseases) | | |

|Baseline |Adult |At 4-5 years old |

|blood and urine tests | | |

|Early Disease Detection |Mature |At 7+ years old |

|blood and urine tests | | |

After age 7, we recommend continued Early Disease Detection testing every other year or more often for monitoring depending on health status.

WELLNESS TESTING

What is Wellness testing?

Wellness testing is the term given to a group of tests performed on an apparently healthy pet.

Why do Wellness testing?

▪ To establish baseline laboratory values for the individual pet

while healthy. These values can then be used to

compare to future test results.

▪ For early disease detection.

Pets cannot tell you how they are feeling, and as a result, disease may be present before you are aware of it. If a disease or condition can be detected before a pet shows signs of illness, we can often take steps to manage or correct the problem before irreparable damage is done. Wellness testing is particularly important in the middle aged and senior pet, since there is a greater chance that underlying disease may be present.

How often is Wellness testing done?

Testing may be recommended once yearly or more, depending on your pet’s age and specific health concerns.

What is involved in Wellness testing?

There are three main categories of wellness testing: blood tests, urine tests, and fecal tests. Within each category, the veterinarian will determine how extensive the testing should be. Other tests such as blood pressure, eye pressure, chest x-rays or abdominal ultrasound may be recommended as well, depending on the patient’s individual risk factors.

▪Blood Tests

The Complete Blood Count (CBC) provides details about the number, size, and shape of the red and white blood cells and identifies the presence of any abnormal cells. Anemia, inflammation, infection, certain cancers, and bleeding disorders can be detected.

The Biochemical Profile provides information about how well the various organs of the body are working (i.e. liver, kidney, and pancreas), evaluates electrolytes, proteins, and can be the first step in detecting certain metabolic diseases. Measurement of thyroid hormone screens for an over or under-active thyroid gland.

▪Urine Tests

A urinalysis involves an analysis of the chemical components in urine, as well as a microscopic examination of the cells and solid material present in urine. Urinalysis provides information about how well the kidneys are working, identifies the presence of inflammation or infection, and may detect the presence of underlying metabolic diseases such as diabetes. Urinalysis is a particularly important component of senior wellness testing because of the very high rate of kidney disease in older pets.

▪Fecal Tests

Most of the time, a fecal analysis is done with the use of a microscope to determine if any intestinal parasite (worm) eggs are being shed in the feces. The general appearance or consistency of the feces can also be an indication of disease, and may lead to recommendation for further testing.

Summary

Wellness testing is a simple and effective way of monitoring your pet's health beyond regular physical examinations by your veterinarian. Early detection and correction of medical problems help to ensure that your pet will be healthy and active for as long as possible.

“Flip the Lip!”

A healthy mouth means a healthy pet.

Did you know?

• Dental disease is the most common disease in both dogs and cats – by the time they are three years old, more than 70% of pets have some form of dental disease.

• Left untreated, dental disease can make eating, play, and other day-to-day activities painful for your pet.

• Dental disease doesn’t stay in the mouth – inflamed gums allow dangerous bacteria access to the bloodstream, where they shower important organs, leading to respiratory problems, heart disease, kidney and liver diseases, diabetes, and more.

How will you know if your pet has dental disease? Bad Breath is one clue! Bacteria forms a film of plaque on the teeth, and breath gets gross. If that plaque is not removed, it starts to thicken and harden into tartar. Tartar is a yellow-brown buildup that you can see on the teeth – but by the time you see it, tartar is also below the gum line, where it causes inflammation called gingivitis. If left untreated, gingivitis progresses to periodontal disease: swollen bleeding gums, chronic pain, loose and broken teeth, and infection.

The bad news is; most pets never show any symptoms of dental disease. Even those with painful mouths will continue to eat and even play with toys. Pets instinctively hide pain as, in the wild, pain is seen as a weakness.

The good news is; there is plenty you can do to keep your pet’s mouth clean and healthy.

Today, we may have recommended a full dental cleaning. This is much like we would get at our dentist, but your pet has to be under anaesthesia, because even the best-trained pet won’t tolerate the scraping and polishing and probing under the gums that is required to do a thorough job.

To prevent dental disease, we recommend some or all of the following:

• A prescription diet that cleans the teeth and has the

Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) seal of approval.

• SAFE dental chews that are designed to help remove plaque.

• Brushing your pet’s teeth regularly with a pet-safe toothpaste

(human toothpaste is toxic to pets)

• A specially-designed and safe water additive

The Obesity Epidemic

If you feel that our team is obsessed with measuring your pet’s weight and discussing nutrition, you are absolutely correct! There is an obesity epidemic in North American pets and it is getting worse. In 2013, more than 50% of cats and dogs were overweight or obese.

Why does it matter? Even a few excess pounds put your pet at increased risk for:

• Arthritis

• Diabetes

• High Blood Pressure

• Heart and Lung Disease

• Cranial Cruciate (knee) Ligament Injury

• Kidney Disease

• Many Forms of Cancer

• Decreased life expectancy (up to 2.5 years)

Here are three common reasons for excess weight gain:

1) Perception. Sometimes it can be hard to get too worried about “just a few extra pounds” on your pet, but remember how much smaller than us most pets are. The link below helps you figure out how much your pet weighs compared to an adult human:

.

For example,

A Labrador Retriever who should weigh 60lbs, weighing 75lbs, is like a 5’8” person who should weigh 165lbs, weighing in at 205lbs.

A typical cat should weigh 10 lbs. At 18lbs, that’s like a 5’4” person who should weigh 140 lbs, weighing in at 265lbs.

2) Portions. It is best to feed your pet at set mealtimes, two to three times per day, measuring out the food each time. We can help you determine how much to feed. If you follow the feeding guide on the food package, keep in mind that you should be feeding to your pet’s ideal body weight. Many feeding guides on the packages overestimate what a typical pet needs.

3) Treats. We tend to overdo it. To use a Labrador Retriever as an example, the maximum number of calories from treats per day should be 100 or less. This is equivalent to: 2 medium sized typical dog bone treats, OR 1 tablespoon peanut butter OR 1.5 oz. cheddar cheese OR 6 low calorie veterinary prescribed dog bone treats.

How many treats does your pet get per day?

What can you do to help your pet?

1. If your pet has weight to lose, accept that and take action! If not, work to prevent obesity.

2. Feed your pet the recommended daily amount in two to three meals.

3. Reduce treats and the number of times you reward with food; use toys, attention and love, instead.

4. Bring your pet in for free monthly weigh-ins to monitor progress.

Gastrointestinal Foreign Bodies

Can you believe they eat these things?

Our pets like to play with things and play often involves chewing. Chewing can lead to accidental swallowing, and potential disaster can ensue. Pets of any age can get into trouble, but young dogs and cats are most at risk. Common objects, or “foreign bodies”, that are sometimes swallowed include:

• Toys, especially the squeakers from dog toys

• Socks, underwear, nylons

• Rocks, sticks, pine needles

• Corn cobs

• Balls

• Jewelry, coins

• Leashes and collars

• Plastic bags

• Fish hooks

• Tinsel, ribbon

• Elastic bands, hair ties

• Ear plugs

• Bathroom garbage (dental floss, feminine hygiene products)

• Kitchen garbage (bones, foil, packaging)

• Sewing needles (especially tempting to cats when attached to thread), yarn

• Wooden skewers with meat attached (we cannot see the skewers on an x-ray!)

The list goes on. If the object does not pass and causes obstruction or partial obstruction, surgery will be needed to remove it. Swift diagnosis allows for prompt removal of the foreign body before the bowel is badly damaged. In more advanced situations, sections of damaged bowel must be removed and in the worst possible scenario, the intestine breaks open and spills bacteria and digested food throughout the abdomen. This latter possibility is associated with very high death rate and should be avoided.

Sometimes the pet ingests a stringy object such as tinsel, yarn, or pieces of fabric. These objects can cause the intestine to bunch up on itself like a drawstring. They may also saw right through the intestine, leading to a much more serious situation. This can also happen when a needle is caught under a cat’s tongue, leaving the attached thread to trail down to the stomach and intestines.

Prevention is, by far, the best medicine: keep these and other hazards out of your pet’s reach, and inspect toys regularly to ensure safety. If you have reason to suspect your pet has eaten something they shouldn’t have, contact us right away for advice.

Top 5 Things You Should Know About Pet Food

Reading labels and information online can be overwhelming and confusing, and not all information you read is factual. Here are the top 5 things you should know when choosing a pet food for your dog or cat:

1. Credentials. The pet food manufacturer should utilize at least one board-certified veterinary nutritionist (ie. ACVN: American College of Veterinary Nutrition or ECVCN: European College of Veterinary Comparative Nutrition) to formulate their diets. To determine this, you usually need to investigate through the company website or contact the company directly.

2. AAFCO Statement. Look for the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement on the label, which designates the lifestage the food is indicated for (this may be different than what is conveyed on the front of the bag). A food that meets AAFCO requirements for “all lifestages” means it is in fact, a kitten or puppy food formulation, and may not be ideal for an adult, overweight, or aging pet.

3. Ingredients. Pets derive nutrients from the ingredients in their food. Some ingredients may sound more appetizing to humans but may actually be less nutritious than other ingredients that seem less appealing. Some manufacturers may add unproven ingredients to diets solely for marketing purposes in order to attract consumers. Ingredients are listed on labels in order of weight, including water, so ingredients with high water content (like “chicken”) are going to appear higher on the list than similar amounts of dry ingredients (like “rice” or “chicken meal” – cooked, dehydrated chicken meat) even though they may contribute fewer nutrients to the overall diet.

4. Grain-Free. Whole grains, rather than being fillers, contribute valuable nutrients, including vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids and fiber, to diets while helping to keep the fat and calories lower. The vast majority of dogs and cats are very efficient at digesting and utilizing nutrients from grains. Allergies to grains are very uncommon in pets, and feeding a food free of grains does NOT prevent allergies in non-allergic pets. Many grain-free diets contain starches such as those from sweet potatoes or tapioca (cassava) in place of grains. These ingredients often provide fewer nutrients and less fiber than whole grains, while costing more.

5. By-products. By-products (mainly organ meats) often provide more nutrients than muscle meats on a per weight basis, are important components of many pet foods, and even considered delicacies for humans in other countries. The term by-product comes from the fact that these are the leftovers from animal carcasses once the desirable (for North Americans) muscle meat has been removed for human consumption. Mammal by-products by AAFCO definition DO NOT INCLUDE hair, hooves, horn, hide trimmings, or intestinal contents. Like all ingredients, the quality of by-products can vary, so it is important to select manufacturers who have stringent internal quality control standards.

How to Recognize Pain in Your Dog

Dogs often hide pain and illness. If a dog was in the wild and showed pain or was acting unwell, it would be at risk from predators. The instinct to protect oneself is strong, and it means that sometimes it can be difficult to tell if your dog is sick or in pain. It is common for pet owners to miss signs of pain in their dog and assume if the dog is not whining, it is not in pain.

The following can be subtle signs of pain in dogs:

• Avoidance of slippery floor surfaces.

• Choosing to lay down when eating or drinking.

• Difficulty rising or sitting/laying down, or difficulty getting comfortable, or not sleeping well.

• Reduction in mobility. Limping is an obvious sign, but if more than one leg is affected, it can be more subtle and the dog may just have a “stiffer” gait than before.

• Reluctance or inability to jump/climb onto the furniture or bed or into the car.

• Reluctance to raise the head to take a treat.

• Lagging behind on walks.

• Reluctance to go up or down stairs.

• Resentment of brushing/grooming when the dog didn’t mind before.

• Housesoiling accidents.

• Change in personality: aggressive or short-tempered or withdrawn/hiding.

• Loss of appetite.

The causes of pain in dogs can be as varied as they are in humans, but in middle-aged to older pets, osteoarthritis would be one of the most common causes of chronic pain. Osteoarthritis is diagnosed on history, physical examination and x-rays of the joints, and treatments are available to help with comfort.

Please do not administer ANY pain medications to your dog without first discussing it with your veterinarian. Some over-the-counter pain remedies used for people are toxic to dogs (ie. Advil®, Aleve®), and a pain medication prescribed for one problem may not be safe for another.

No one deserves to be in pain, and your pet is no exception. Effective pain management options are available, and sometimes the only way to know if your pet has been in pain is to have your veterinarian prescribe a course of pain medication and see if you notice behaviour changes in your pet. None of us want our pets to suffer in silence. Talk to us if you think your dog is in pain so we can help.

Newly Emerging Diseases iN Ontario as of 2019

The last few years, much attention has been focused on ticks and the diseases that they can transmit, such as Lyme disease. We are still just as concerned about tick bite prevention, especially as the climate changes, but now there are a few other diseases on the horizon that we want you to know about.

Take a moment to learn more about the following infections, but rest assured, they are still considered uncommon in Ontario:

1. Blastomycosis is caused by a fungus, Blastomyces dermatitidis, that is present in soil. There are parts of the US where this infection is commonly diagnosed but fortunately in Ontario, this is still considered a rare disease. There are several hot spots around Georgian Bay and Kenora, however, where dogs are at increased risk. Dogs become infected through contamination of a wound or by inhaling the fungal spores (i.e. while rooting around in soil). The organism causes open and draining sores on the skin, or if inhaled, a serious pneumonia can result. Other signs of infection are more vague including fever, weight loss and decreased appetite. Either way, the disease is difficult to diagnose and the treatment is expensive and prolonged. People can become infected as well, but the infection is not passed directly from an infected dog to a human. There is no good way to prevent this infection, but if you frequent the areas of concern, try to restrict your dog from digging around in the soil.

2. Lungworms. When presented with a dog with a chronic cough, there are many causes we consider, but now added to the list would be the possibility the dog has been infected with lungworm. There are two such parasites of concern in Ontario. In both cases, the fox is the natural host, but coyotes, wolves, and dogs can be infected as well. Infection occurs when the dog eats an infected intermediate host, such as an earthworm, snail, slug, or eats a frog, mouse, or bird that has one of these critters in its stomach. Sometimes chest x-rays may indicate infection. A fecal sample can be analyzed for microscopic parasite eggs or larvae which are coughed up in phlegm by the dog and then swallowed and passed in the stool. Diagnosis can be difficult, so many times a treatment trial with an oral or topical dewormer will be started, and then response to treatment assessed.

3. Echinococcus tapeworms. Usually when we talk about tapeworm infection and prevention, we are discussing Dipylidium caninum or Taenia spp. In order to become infected with these tapeworms, a dog or cat needs to eat a flea, rabbit, or rodent. Echinococcus spp. tapeworm infection causes more concern because the infection can lead to cysts in the organs of the body with serious medical consequences, and both dogs and humans can be affected. The natural host is the fox or coyote, and they spread the tapeworm eggs in their stool. If a dog becomes infected, they could pass infective eggs to the humans in the household through contact with their fecal material, or the dog could develop the dangerous cysts in their organs. Many of the dewormers we use for the more routine tapeworms also help prevent infection with Echinococcus spp., but the best prevention includes prohibiting dogs from eating rodents and the feces of wildlife, and not allowing dogs to eat the entrails of sheep or white-tailed deer (attention, hunters!). People should always practice good hygiene, especially after contact with their dog or its feces. Be aware that eating wild berries, mushrooms or greens that may have been contaminated by fox or coyote feces also increases the risk of infection.

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