Preparing your home for a new dog - GSP Rescue



Preparing your home for a new dogBringing home a new puppy is truly one of life’s joys. Thoughtful pre-puppy preparations and a well-planned first 24 hours can give your fuzzy bundle of promise a head start and make your dreams of the perfect family dog come true.Before the Big DayOnce household discussions have established that everyone wants a dog of a certain age and breed, where to get the pup—from a shelter or reputable breeder—is more or less determined. Now, family meetings should cover scheduling:Who will take the pup to the papers or backyard and when?Who will be in charge of feedings three to four times a day?Who will make veterinary appointments for vaccinations and de-worming?Also, take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use. If Mom says “down” when Puppers climbs on the couch, Dad says “down” when he wants him to lie down, and Junior utters “sit down” when he expects the pup’s rear to hit the floor, the result will be one confused dog! Putting the schedule and vocabulary list in writing prevents confusion and will help dog walkers, nannies, and others involved in raising Puppers.Next, draft a shopping list and purchase supplies: food and water bowls, chew toys, grooming supplies, bedding, collar and leash, identification tag, crate, gate, and odor neutralizer. Pre-puppy shopping allows you to order from wholesale catalogs or visit the pet superstore in the next county without the pressure of Puppers needing it right now.You’ll need to puppy-proof the area where the youngster will spend most of his time the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate; and installing gates. Once you think you’ve completely puppy-proofed, lie on the floor and look around once more to get a puppy’s-eye view.If you have children, hold one last meeting to lay down the rules: Don’t overwhelm Pup the first day, and don’t fight over him or create mob scenes showing him to the neighborhood. Now you’re off to get Puppers.Getting Off on the Right PawWhen you pick up your pup, remember to ask what and when he was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new brand to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to equal parts; and then one part old to three parts new.From the start, consistency is important. On the way home, Puppers should ride in the back seat, either in one person’s arms or, preferably, in a crate or carrier.Once home, folks who plop the excited newcomer on the Oriental and let the kids chase him will be mopping up in no time—and regretting the lesson they taught their new pup. Instead, take him to his toileting area immediately.From there, carry out your schedule for feeding, toileting, napping, and play/exercise. From Day One, your pup will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Solitude may be new to Puppers, so he may vocalize concern. Don’t give in and comfort him or you may create a monster. “Gee, if making noise brought them running once, maybe more whimpering is needed to get their attention again,” reasons the pup. Give him attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly.Doing things correctly from the start prevents confusion. Through puppy preparedness, you are one step closer to your Dream Dog.Tips for the first 30 days of dog adoptionThe first few days in your home are special and critical for a pet. Your new dog will be confused about where he is and what to expect from you. Setting up some clear structure with your family for your dog will be paramount in making as smooth a transition as possible.Before You Bring Your Dog Home:Determine where your dog will be spending most of his time. Because he will be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from shelter or foster home to your house), he may forget any housebreaking (if any) he’s learned. Often a kitchen will work best for easy clean-up.If you plan on crate training your dog, be sure to have a crate set-up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home. Dog-proof the area where your pooch will spend most of his time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.Training your dog will start the first moment you have him. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn his commands more quickly. Bring an ID tag with your phone number on it with you when you pick up your dog so that he has an extra measure of safety for the ride home and the first few uneasy days. If he is microchipped, be sure to register your contact information with the chip’s company, if the rescue or shelter did not already do so.First Day:We know moving is stressful — and your new dog feels the same way! Give him time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing him to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming him. When you pick up your dog, remember to ask what and when he was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to half new food, half old, and then one part old to three parts new. On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having him in a safe place will make the trip home easier on him and you.Once home, take him to his toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time with him so he will get used to the area and relieve himself. Even if your dog does relieve himself during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds can throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case. If you plan on crate training your dog, leave the crate open so that he can go in whenever he feels like it in case he gets overwhelmed. From there, start your schedule of feeding, toileting and play/exercise. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don’t give in and comfort him if he whines when left alone. Instead, give him attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much excitement (such as the dog park or neighborhood children). Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, it will give you more one-on-one time to get to know him and his likes/dislikes.If he came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs and sticks are just some of the pieces of “training equipment” that may have been used on this dog. Words like “come here” and “lie down” may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect, or maybe he led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.Following Weeks:People often say they don’t see their dog’s true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog may be a bit uneasy at first as he gets to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of him as well as what he can expect from you.After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes or the dog park. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language to be sure he’s having a good time — and is not fearful or a dog park bully. To have a long and happy life together with your dog, stick to the original schedule you created, ensuring your dog always has the food, potty time and attention he needs. You’ll be bonded in no time! If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive-reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles. Introducing a new dog to a resident dogAnimals who live in groups, like dogs, establish a social structure within the group called a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among pack members. Dogs also establish territories, which they may defend against intruders or rivals. This social and territorial nature affects their behavior when a new dog is introduced to their household.Introduction techniquesChoose a neutral locationIntroduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person.With both dogs on a leash, take them to an area with which neither is familiar, such as a park or a neighbor's yard. If you frequently walk your resident dog in a park near your house, she may view that park as her territory, so choose another site that's unfamiliar to her. We recommend bringing your resident dog with you to the shelter and introducing the dogs before adopting the new dog.Use positive reinforcementFrom the first meeting, you want both dogs to expect good things to happen when they're in each other's presence. Let them sniff each other, which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, praise them in a happy, friendly tone of voice - never use a threatening tone.Don't allow them to investigate and sniff each other for a prolonged period of time, as this may escalate to an aggressive response. After a short time, get both dogs' attention, and give each dog a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit" or "stay." Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the happy talk, food rewards and simple commands.Be aware of body posturesOne body posture that indicates things are going well is a "play-bow." One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog.Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on the other dog's back, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff legged gait or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly and positively getting each dog interested in something else.For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down and reward each with a treat. The dogs will become interested in the treats which will prevent the situation from escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other.Taking the dogs homeWhen the dogs seem to be tolerating each other's presence without fearful or aggressive responses, and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same, or different vehicles, will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble-free the initial introduction has been and how many dogs are involved.If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to gang up on the newcomer.Introducing puppies to adult dogsPuppies will often unmercifully pester adult dogs. Before the age of four months, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they've had enough. Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits with puppies with a growl or snarl. These behaviors are normal and should be allowed.Adult dogs who are not well-socialized, or who have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy should not be left alone with an adult dog until you're confident the puppy isn't in any danger. Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy, and perhaps, some individual attention.When to get helpIf the introduction of a new dog to a household doesn't go as planned and even after following the steps above the dogs continue to struggle with each other,?contact a professional animal behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Conflicts between dogs in the same family can often be resolved with professional help. Punishment won't work and could make things worse.Introducing a new dog to a resident catDogs and cats can usually live together peacefully, although creating a harmonious "blended family" requires some planning, patience, and careful guidance on your part. In some cases your dog and cat will become best friends. When introducing a new dog into your house, you must remember that dogs can kill a cat very easily, even if they are only playing. Sometimes all it takes is one shake by the dog, and the cat’s neck can break. Some dogs have a very high prey drive and should never be left alone with your cat.When you introduce pets to each other, one of them may send "play" signals that can be misinterpreted by the other pet. If those signals are interpreted as aggression by one animal, then you should handle the situation as "aggressive".Before bringing a dog into a home with an existing cat, be sure to do the following:Create a safe place for your cat, where the new dog cannot get to it (use a baby gate or a cat door). Your cat should have a "safe" location in every room, even if it is only the top of a bookcase.Put your cat’s litter box in a safe area. Many dogs eat cat feces, and if the dog ambushes the cat in the litter box, the cat may become afraid and relieve himself elsewhere in the house.Keep the cat’s food and water dishes in a safe area as well. Cat food is too rich for dogs, and dog food lacks vital nutrients for cats’ eyesight and heart function.Web Image: Baxter and Stretch3.Figure out if your new dog understands basic commands, such as "sit", "stay" and "leave it". This will be helpful with the introductions.The IntroductionBeforehand, exercise your dog and feed him a nice meal; this will help the dog to get into a relaxed mood.Put the cat in a safe place, and let the dog roam the house for about 30-45 minutes; this allows for the dog to "meet" the cat by smell only. Then take the dog out for a walk and let the cat "meet" the dog by smell only.Put your dog on a short leash, or you can attach the dog’s leash to your belt (for the first few days, if necessary) – this will allow you to make a quick correction if he starts to chase the cat. It will also allow you to bond with your dog… everywhere you go he goes!Put your cat in her carrier if she's typically skittish; otherwise, let her walk around. Be ready with lots of treats for good behavior.The cat’s first reaction will likely be to hiss and/or run… this is perfectly normal.Let dog and cat check each other out at a distance. Pet and talk to your dog soothingly. It's not time for dog to approach cat just yet. Give your dog and cat some treats and praise as rewards.If your dog bolts toward your cat, correct him with the leash, and use the "sit" or "leave it" commands. If he shows any signs of excessive excitability, calm him. If this doesn't do the trick, cut the visit short and try again later. Praise the dog (or give a treat) the moment that he complies and stops trying to get the cat.Repeat these short visits several times a day, gradually giving your dog more leash as appropriate.DO NOT MOVE TO THE NEXT PHASE UNTIL YOU HAVE SEVERAL CONSECUTIVE DAYS OF INCIDENT-FREE VISITS, IN WHICH BOTH ANIMALS DEMONSTRATE TO YOUR SATISFACTION THAT THEY ARE COMFORTABLE WITH EACH OTHER.Proceed with CautionOnce your dog and cat consistently get along during leashed visits, you're ready for the next step. Let go of the leash, but be prepared to grab it or step on it if he attempts to go after the cat. If the cat swats the dog on the nose, distract the dog with a toy, but don’t punish the cat. Many times, all it takes is one swat from the cat for a dog to learn his lesson.Be sure to speak in a calm and soothing voice, and use both animals’ names. If there are any accidents, simply clean it up using an enzymatic cleanser or white vinegar.Take your dog off the leash, and supervise the two closely. If you see problems, and they don't resolve with a few simple voice commands, go back to the previous phase for a few days. Gradually make the no-leash sessions longer. Do not leave the cat and dog alone until you're sure they're both fully comfortable with each other and there will be no trouble.Until you know that your dog and cat will be OK when feeding, a trick you can use is to separate them, on either side of a door. This will allow them to associate something enjoyable with the other’s "smell" while eating.Swap their bedding, so that they will get used to the other’s "smell".Be sure that the animals are healthy and that you are aware of any medical problems, otherwise this could prolong the introduction process.If you are introducing a dog into a household with a kitten, use extra caution. A kitten is more likely to be injured by a young, energetic dog or a predatory dog.When introducing a puppy to a household with a cat, a well-socialized cat will typically be able to deal with a puppy. If you have a shy cat, be more cautious, as a puppy will not understand that the cat does not want to play.If introductions don’t go smoothly, seek professional help immediately. Your pets can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Conflicts between pets in the same family can often be resolved with professional help… punishment will not work, and could make things worse.Now, with all of this in mind, hopefully everything goes very smoothly for you and your pets… so relax and give those guys some hugs!Living with both cats and dogsI’m not sure where the phrase “fighting like cats and dogs” comes from, but in the majority of homes I am acquainted with, dogs and cats share living quarters quite amiably. In fact, it is often more difficult to introduce a second female cat or a second male dog to a household than it is a member of the other species.There are exceptions, of course. Trying to socialize stray cats that border on feral presents a serious health risk to resident dogs, even friendly ones. Dogs with strong prey drives (the desire to catch, shake and kill) can put the family cat in considerable danger.Do fence them inTo make a successful inter-species introduction in the average household, one needs little more than a dog who understands a few rudimentary commands and a sturdy baby gate. A canine who has learned to respond to basics such as “Leave it,” “Down” and “Come” can most likely be controlled around a new cat indoors.Outdoors is another matter completely. Many otherwise cat-friendly dogs view outdoor cats as prey to be chased down and dispatched – a strong case for keeping cats indoors and dogs on a leash!If the resident dog lacks basic manners or is the newcomer, a 4-foot house leash and buckle collar can give the caretaker control over the situation. When the dog rushes past in a raucous game of “catch the cat,” step on the end of the leash. As the dog brakes and turns to look at you, utter your “Sit” or “Down” command. Don’t forget to praise the dog when he complies. If he shows the slightest interest in chasing the cat, growl “Leave it” at him and praise him once again when he looks away from the cat.The baby gate is crucial in providing a cat with dog-free territory. A nervous feline can hop the gate to find a safe haven, and a food bowl placed behind will be untouched by canine muzzles.What’s the scoop?Placing the litterbox behind the gate will insure that cat feces stay right where the cat leaves them. You may be thinking, “Ugh, how tasteless!”, but the dog’s response is more likely to be, “Yum! How tasty!” Anticipate this eventuality and prepare for it.In some situations, a gate will not be a viable solution. If this is the case in your home, creative thinking will play a crucial role in household management. Is your bathtub tall and your dog small? If so, then a litterbox at one end and a food dish at the other will adequately meet your cat’s needs.A covered litterbox prevents thievery in some cases, but beware! More than one dog has managed to get its head caught in the box and run hither and yon trying to break free. In one case I learned of, the cat was in the litterbox when the dog got the cover stuck on his head. Could a case of lapsed litterbox visits be far behind?If you own your home, there are more viable options open to you. Some folks cut cat-sized openings in linen closet doors or bathroom vanities as a good way to both keep Bowser out of the cat box and the box itself out of view.Separate tablesAs for alternative feeding stations, countertops and wide window sills can provide out-of-reach dining spots for felines. Remember, cat food and dog food are not interchangeable. Much research has gone into developing specialized canine and feline diets. Keeping them out of each other’s bowls is crucial.With a little forethought, a home occupied by dogs and cats is a living example of The Peaceable Kingdom. Thoughtful management can guarantee that a full house is always a winner.Responsibilities for the parents of the newly adopted dogNever, ever leave a child alone with your new dog. Not even for a second to turn your head and answer the phone. The type of relationship we see on TV between children and dogs is a fantasy, and not a reflection of what real dogs can be like with children.No one in the family should be encouraging rough play, wrestling or the dog to play with his mouth on human body parts or clothes. This is especially relevant when an adult member of the household plays with the dog in this manner, because when the child next excites the dog, the dog may be stimulated to play in the same rough manner, thereby putting the child at risk for injury.Your dog should be fed his meals in an area completely protected from and away from children, as much for a bit of peace and privacy as it is to prevent guarding behaviors. The dog should also be fed portions that are quickly finished, so there is nothing left in the bowl for the dog to linger over and guard. Empty bowls should be taken up and put away, so the dog won’t consider guarding the feeding area.Most children are not bitten by their own dog, but by a friend or neighbor’s dog. This means two things: watch your own dog closely when your child has a friend (or friends) over. Many dogs will tolerate a lot from his own family’s child, but not tolerate a visiting child. Visiting children often do not behave as well as, or may behave differently from your own children, and could bother or provoke your dog. Consequently, if your child’s friends have dogs, you need to, (as a responsible parent) go over and meet the friend’s dog BEFORE you allow your child to visit their house. It is a good idea to see the size and general nature of your child’s friend’s dog, and check to see if the owner of this dog will allow unsupervised interaction between the children and the dog, to ask where and when the dog is fed, and to check if there are any chewable toys or bones lying around, and then to either request that they be picked up and put away while your child visits, or ensure that their dog has no possessiveness problems.Changing the name of your new dogSometimes adopting a dog means adopting a dog with a name you don’t particularly like. Actually, it’s easy for your newly adopted dog to learn a new name. Don’t feel that a dog cannot learn a new name, and don’t feel that a dog can’t learn a name completely dissimilar to his previous name. A dog or puppy of any age can learn a brand new name within a few days. Here’s how:Decide on any new name you wish for your newly adopted pet.For the first few days, carry a pocketful of treats.Every once in a while, and also specifically when you do want your dog’s attention, call out his new name and then immediately smile, praise heartily, and feed a treat.Even if he doesn’t turn to look at you when you call out the name, do the above any way, and soon he will know that hearing that word means great things are coming, and he will respond as if that word is his own!The benefits of crate trainingA king has his castle, a child yearns for his own room, an infant is placed in a crib or playpen for safekeeping. Don’t our young canine friends deserve the very same consideration for their well-being when we are gone?Crate ExpectationsTraining crates for dogs are too often deemed cruel. In fact, they are both training and safety devices and as such can benefit dog and owner alike. Crating on a humane schedule teaches puppies bladder and bowel control and limits teething to his/her own property. A dog crated in a car has a better chance of surviving an auto accident and little chance of causing one.You will also find the welcome mat out at more inns and motels if you promise to crate the dog whenever you leave the room. Besides, the dog will feel more comfortable when left alone if he is in his own “room.”Dog crates come in all sizes, many colors, and different styles. The most common are molded-plastic airline shipping crates and the open-wire types that usually come with a metal tray on the bottom. For owners who plan to do a lot of air travel with their dogs or for those whose dogs prefer dark, cozy places, the molded-plastic variety is best. Wire crates are preferred in most other instances.The size of the crate is based on the size of your dog. There should be enough room for him to stand up, turn around in a small circle, and lie down comfortably. The crate serves as a place where the dog can rest and chew on safe, appropriate toys. It is not an exercise pen.If you plan to use the crate as a housebreaking aid, size is of paramount importance. If there is room for Rex to soil and then lie high and dry away from the mess, the crate cannot serve its purpose. Those buying crates for puppies should keep the adult dog’s size in mind; but until the pup grows up, excess room should be cordoned off in some manner. Masonite, Plexiglas, or even old wire refrigerator shelves can serve as barriers.Dog-Den AfternoonsHow long can a dog be crated in one session? The rule of thumb for crating is no longer than one hour per each month of age, up to nine to ten hours maximum (the average work day). Each session should be preceded and succeeded by an hour of aerobic exercise. If this is too long for your dog, hire a dog walker to exercise him midday.Before you can leave your dog for the long stretch, make sure you have accustomed him to the crate. A dog who panics when left alone in a crate could do damage to the crate and, more seriously, to himself. And never, never crate your dog while he is wearing any sort of correction collar—it could easily get caught on something in the crate and choke the animal.The Pup Runneth OverYoung puppies need lots of human stimulus and feedback, so avoid relying too heavily on the crate in the early months. Most puppies three and a half to four months old can be crated overnight for about six hours, even though they probably cannot yet display that kind of bladder control during the daytime. Younger dogs crated at bedtime will need to be brought to their papers or outdoors at least once in the middle of the night.Crating is recommended as part of the workday routine until the dog grows out of adolescence, at approximately 18 months of age, for dogs that are heavy chewers or are otherwise destructive. This is a time of behavioral inconsistency and learning through trial and error. Proceed slowly when it’s time to wean your dog off the crate; leave him alone for just a few hours at a time. And think twice before leaving a curious adolescent at liberty in your house. Your dog may behave perfectly for a few weeks and then one day you might come home to find the place in a shambles.A crate can provide peace of mind for both you and your dog. Think of it as a leash with walls. After all, both pieces of equipment serve to protect your dog from his own base instincts and errors in judgment. By crating your dog during the workday, you ensure him a royal welcome on your arrival home.How to talk to your dogWhat we say to our dogs is important. How we say it is crucial. Different tones of voice are used to distinguish between commands, corrections, and praise. Commands are given in a firm, strong tone of voice. No chanting please. Corrections get a little lower, sharper and growlier. Praise is more exuberant and excited — pleasant, but not so exuberant as to incite him to wiggle out of control.All commands should be preceded by the dog’s name. How else will Rover know you’re talking to him? But even before that, you’re going to teach Rover to look at you. Trace a line with your index finger from Rover’s eyes to yours. As soon as he makes eye contact, talk to him and encourage him to sustain the eye contact for a few seconds with a “Good watch!” in a pleasant, upbeat tone of voice. You can also get Rover’s attention by taking a little tidbit of food after letting Rover sniff it, moving the food up to your eye level. When Rover looks up, praise him and give him the food treat. Now that you have his attention, he is ready to listen.Your dog’s mother did not repeat herself over and over again. Neither should you. Once the dog understands what the command means, it should only be said once, “Rover, sit!” If he continues to sniff the air, or otherwise ignore you, it’s “NO, sit!” (an instructive reprimand) and then if you must, place the dogging the sit position.When teaching a command for the first time, it is important to help the dog to be successful by luring him into the position. Dogs are not born with an innate understanding of words. They learn by associating words with actions.Be consistent! You should only ask the dog to do one thing at a time. If you ask your dog to “Sit down,” how is he to know which to do? “Sit” and “Down” are two different commands. Be specific with your commands. When you want him off the couch, don’t interchange commands like “down” and “off.” Make sure all family members are using the same commands; otherwise the confusion will delay training success.Above all, keep it positive. You’re communicating and building a relationship. You work for rewards (salary, bonuses, commissions), so will your dog!Vocabulary ListWATCH ME or LOOK AT ME!?Get your dog to focus on you and make eye contact.PHEWY/ECH/NO/WRONG!?Wrong choice, the dog blew it. Should be said in a low, firm tone of voice.OUCH or IEEE!?Stop that mouthing, it hurts. When your dog bit down too hard on his littermates, they yelped at him and stopped playing.GOOD DOG/WHAT A GOOD KID!?Right choice. Should be said in an upbeat, happy tone of voice. You want the dog to know that what he did was wonderful and he should keep doing it.SIT!?The most basic of all commands. Can be practiced before eating, at street corners, in elevators, whenever you need to get active control of your dog.DOWN!?This means to lie down. Down is a very subordinate position so some bossy dogs may not readily comply. To be used when you want your dog to be comfortable or when you need control of a dog throwing a tantrum. Do not confuse this with “Off!”STAND!?Use this when you want the dog to go from a sit or down and stand with all four feet on the ground. This is very useful at the vet’s office or at the curb on a rainy day.STAY!?This means do not move from whatever position you are in. You may ask your dog to “sit stay,” “down stay,” etc.OKAY!?Dog is released from whatever position you asked him to assume. He is done working until the next command is given.LET’S GO!?This is the command for controlled walking, what you do on a regular basis with your dog. The dog may go out to the end of his six-foot leash and sniff around and do his thing but he may not drag you down the street or trip you by crisscrossing in front of or behind you.HEEL!?This is a very precise position at your left side. The dog walks along beside you. If you stop, the dog stops. Heel is a good command to use on very crowded streets or when you want your dog very close, such as when there’s broken glass in your E!?When your dog hears this command, he should leave whatever he is doing and come to sit in front of you. Because this can be a lifesaving command, you should always give it in the most cheerful, inviting tones. Reserve a very special treat for teaching it and never use it to call your dog to you to do something he does not like.OFF!?Use this for jumping up on either people, furniture, or counter tops. Don’t confuse this command with “down.”TAKE IT!?Teach your dog to take food or toys using this command. The dog should wait until you give the “take it” command before putting the offered object in his mouth.DROP IT or OUT or GIVE!?This means that the dog should spit out whatever is in his mouth. It is important to teach this command using a reward system or you can create an overly possessive dog.LEAVE IT!?This tells your dog not to even think about picking up the object, to avert your eyes from the object, other dogs, rollerbladers, etc. Very useful on city streets.For parents – what to watch out forWatch out if your dog uses his mouth in play or to move or control the child. Any dog over 5 months of age should not be using his mouth to play, and is probably not playing, but actually trying to control or dominate humans with his teeth, no matter how gentle your dog appears to be.Watch out if your dog cuts in between you and your child during hugging or engaging in any affectionate interactions. This can indicate jealousy, or rank aggression, or guarding of you, the owner.“Let sleeping dogs lie” is a saying created by someone who really knew dogs. Teach and NEVER allow your children, (or visiting children), to startle, awaken or hug a sleeping dog. Also, dogs by nature are grouchier and testier at night, or in the evenings, and if your dog drops off into a heavy sleep in the evenings, put him away in another private room, or encourage him into a crate, so that you can prevent the possibility of a child startling or waking the dog.Watch for any growling, whether in play or not. Dogs never growl for any other reason except to warn us of biting. So often owners have commented that their dog growled all the time, and were shocked when he finally bit someone, having believed that the growling meant the dog would never bite. Growling is never a vocalization a dog makes just to “talk”, although some breeders of certain breeds have mythology that their breed “talks”. Dogs don’t “talk” by growling – they growl to let us know that they need help, as they are warning us they may bite.Watch for combinations of events: i.e. your dog may be fine if approached by your child while chewing on a rawhide, and separately, your dog may be fine when approached and hugged while resting on your couch, but your dog may growl or even bite when approached by your child AND hugged WHILE he lies on the couch chewing a bone. I.e. your dog may be fine being hugged by your child in general, and your dog may be fine when held by the collar and restrained from chasing the family or cat or bolting out the front door, but your dog may growl, snap or bite when hugged WHILE being restrained or keyed up or frustrated. Housetraining dogs and puppiesThe key to training your dog to eliminate outside (where you want him to) is to prevent accidents, and to reward success. Adult dogs have better bladder and bowel control, and can “hold it” for a longer period of time than puppies. The rule of thumb with puppies is to take their age in months, add one, and that’s the number of hours the puppy can “hold it” during the day (i.e. A four-month-old puppy can be expected to be clean for up to five hours during the day).Here are some simple steps to help you and your dog find success!Feed your dog on a schedule (he’ll eliminate on a schedule, too).Keep his diet simple and consistent (avoid table scraps and canned foods; a high quality dry kibble produces the least waste).Choose an area, about ten square feet, outside, where you wish your dog to potty.Take your dog on leash to the area, pace back and forth (movement promotes movement) and chant an encouraging phrase (“do your business, do your business “). Do this for no more than three minutes:if he eliminates, give huge amounts of praise and play.if he doesn’t eliminate, keep him on leash, go back indoors, keep dog on leash with you or confined in a crate.Try again in an hour; eventually your dog will eliminate appropriately and you cangive huge amounts of praise and play.REMEMBER! Do not punish accidents! Ignore them, and reward success!How often should you feed your dog?Most experts recommend feeding your dog twice a day — once in the morning and once in the evening — though puppies under five months of age should be fed three to four times a day, or as directed by your veterinarian.While most dogs will dig in the moment you place the bowl on the floor, you may find that your adopted dog is a finicky eater, at least at first. After all, he’s been thrust into a new home with new people, and he may be too nervous to eat. If this is the case, you will need to teach him to eat on a schedule.Leave the bowl on the floor for ten minutes and then pick it up, regardless of whether he has eaten. (If your dog is a slow eater, this period can be extended to twenty minutes, but only if he is still eating during that time and hasn’t gone off in search of other entertainment.)At the next scheduled feeding time, put the bowl back down, again for only ten minutes. Pretty soon your dog will learn that he needs to eat when the food is offered.Having regularly-scheduled feeding times not only establishes a routine, it also allows you to monitor your dog’s health. If he picks at his food throughout the day, you may not notice right away if he’s not eating well. But if he normally eats heartily as soon as you put the bowl down, you will immediately see a sudden lack of appetite, which is often an indication that he’s not feeling well. If your dog’s appetite doesn’t improve in a few days, have him checked by your veterinarian.Another benefit of set feedings is that a dog who eats on a schedule poops on a schedule. In addition, if you live in an urban area, leaving a bowl of kibble on the ground all day can attract unwanted house guests, like cockroaches and mice. It is to everyone’s advantage to keep feeding times regular.Where should you feed your dog?For most dogs, mealtime is one of the high points of the day. It’s not only a time to receive nourishment, but also a chance to bond with their favorite human companion. While it’s true that dogs are pack animals and enjoy being close to their families — both human and canine — that doesn’t necessarily mean they want their food bowl plopped down in the middle of the kitchen floor, amid the hustle and bustle of daily life.This could cause your dog to become anxious and gulp his meal, which can lead to digestive problems. He may also become protective of his food and snap at a family member who tries to pet him while he’s eating. Generally, though, you can avoid such problems by keeping food and water dishes in an out-of-the-way spot that is reserved just for doggy dining. There, your pup can relax and savor his meal without interruption.Pick a spot (probably uncarpeted) that will be easy to clean. Dogs can be very messy eaters, spilling food all around the floor and even on the walls, so make sure there’s nothing near your dog’s eating area that can be damaged. We recommend putting his food bowl near his water bowl, which should always be there, cleaned often and filled with fresh water.A caution:?If you have wood floors, you may want to put the water bowl on a waterproof mat, because dogs are not tidy drinkers, and you don’t want the constant drip of spilled water to ruin the floors.The best dishes to use to feed your dogUse ceramic, pyrex, or stainless steel bowls to feed your dog, and make sure they’re heavy enough that they won’t tip or spill while he’s eating. Don’t use plastic bowls, because plastic is a breeding ground for germs, and it can retain the smell of cleaning products and previous meals, which may discourage your dog from eating.Do not use strong detergents or bleach to clean your dog’s food and water dishes, as these products can be toxic. Instead, wash bowls between feedings with a mild dishwashing detergent, and always rinse thoroughly.Many older dogs suffer from arthritis or other health problems that can make eating difficult. Try elevating the dishes off the floor so your dog can reach the food more easily. You can find several different varieties of dishes at your local pet supply store or from an online retailer.A feeding schedule for your dogWe recommend that you feed your dog twice a day, puppies under five months, three times a day, but always check with your veterinarian. Leave the bowl down for 5 minutes, and then pick it up, regardless of whether your dog has eaten or not. Put the bowl back down at the next scheduled feeding, for 5 minutes. Your dog will learn to eat when you put the bowl down, and not to linger and nibble throughout the day. A dog who eats on a schedule, poops on a schedule. Remember that sometimes the only way to recognize that your dog is ill is a lack of appetite. If your dog has his food down all day and usually just picks at it, it may be two or three days before you notice that he hasnt eaten; whereas the dog that gobbles his meals as soon as you put the bowl down would be easy to recognize when he is ill.Training sequence:For the first week:pour kibble into bowlraise bowl over dogs headcommand, sitplace bowl on floor and let dog eatFor the second week:pour kibble into bowlhold up bowl in front of dogcommand, sitstart to lower bowl to floor AS LONG as dog is sittingas soon as dog gets up to go to the bowl, stand up and hold bowl up in front of you againrepeat, sit, lowering bowl as soon as he sitskeep raising it back up as he gets up, each time you should be able to get it slightly lower than the previous timekeep at this (its good for the upper thighs) until you actually have the bowl on the floor, with your hands off of it AND YOUR DOG IS STILL SITTINGthen release him with an, okay and let him eatmake sure you dont release him AS he is already getting up – take the time to make sure he is solidly sitting and staying before you release him to go eatFor the third week:your dog should be able to sit and wait patiently until you release himso, as he is sitting and waiting, you can label the command, stayevery stay has a release, okayFor the fourth week:(this week we work on getting more distance from your dog)pour kibble into bowldog should be sitting and waiting patiently by this timeplace bowl a little further from himrelease with an okay and let him eatif your dog breaks his stay before you release him, pick up the bowl, and put your dog back in the exact spot you left him originallyGeneral dog careBehaviourAll dogs are descended from their wild cousin, the wolf, and share many traits seen in wolves. Dogs, and puppies in particular, are denning creatures and feel more secure in small, snug areas with low roofs, thus the success of the training crate.Dogs are pack animals and do not enjoy being alone. Puppies who stay with their litters until eight weeks old easily will become members of human packs/families. Each pack needs a leader. Ideally all human family members should be ahead of the dog in the pack order. Your dog should not be the leader, as this can result in aggression or other dominance displays.Before You Bring Your Dog?HomeYou will need food, water and food bowls, leash, collar, training crate, brush, comb and canine chew toys.Cleaning UpKeep your dog on a leash when you are outside, unless in a secured (fenced-in) area. If your dog defecates on a neighbor’s lawn, the sidewalk or any other public place, please clean it up.FeedingPuppies 8 to 12 weeks old need four meals a day. Puppies three to six months old need three meals a day. Puppies six months to one year need two meals a day. When your dog is one year old, one meal a day is usually enough. For some dogs (such as larger ones or those prone to bloat), it’s better to continue to feed two smaller meals. Premium-quality dry food provides a well-balanced diet and may be mixed with water, broth or some canned food. Your dog may enjoy cottage cheese, cooked egg, fruits and vegetables, but these additions should not total more than 10 percent of your dog’s daily food intake.Puppies should be fed a high-quality brand-name puppy food (avoid generic brands) two to four times a day. Please limit “people food,” however, because it can cause puppies to suffer vitamin and mineral imbalances, bone and teeth problems and may cause very picky eating habits, as well as obesity. Have clean, fresh water available at all times. Wash food and water dishes frequently.ExerciseEvery dog needs daily exercise for mental and physical stimulation. The proper amount depends on the breed type, age and health status of your dog. Providing enough exercise will improve your dog’s health and prevent household destruction and other behavior problems common in underexercised dogs.GroomingYou can help keep your dog clean and reduce shedding by brushing her frequently. Check for fleas and ticks daily during warm weather. Most dogs don’t need to be bathed more than a few times a year. Before bathing, comb or cut out all mats from the coat. Carefully rinse all soap out of the coat, or dirt will stick to soap residue.HandlingSmall dogs, sometimes referred to as “lap dogs,” are the easiest to handle. The larger breeds, such as German Shepherd dogs, are usually too large to lift. If you want to carry a puppy or small dog, place one hand under the dog’s chest, with either your forearm or other hand supporting the hind legs and rump. Never attempt to lift or grab your puppy or small dog by the forelegs, tail or back of the neck. If you do have to lift a large dog, lift from the under-side, supporting his chest with one arm and his rear end with the other.HousingYou will need to provide your pet with a warm, quiet place to rest away from all drafts and off of the floor. A training crate is ideal. You may wish to buy a dog bed, or make one out of a wooden box. Place a clean blanket or pillow inside the bed. Wash the dog’s bedding often. If your dog will be spending a great deal of time outdoors, you will need to provide her with shade and plenty of cool water in hot weather and a warm, dry, covered shelter when it’s cold.Licensing and IdentificationFollow your community’s licensing regulations. When you buy your license, be sure to attach it to your dog’s collar. A dog license, ID tag, implanted microchip or tattoo can help secure your dog’s return if he becomes lost. Training A well-behaved companion animal is a joy. But left untrained, your dog can cause nothing but trouble. Teaching your dog the basics”sit,” “stay,” “come,” “down,” “heel,” “off” and “leave it”will improve your relationship with both your dog and your neighbors. Start teaching puppies basic sit and stay commands. Use little bits of food as a lure and reward. Puppies can be enrolled in obedience courses when your veterinarian believes they are adequately vaccinated. Contact your local humane society or SPCA for training class recommendations. Start teaching your puppy manners NOW!HEALTHSee a veterinarian if your dog is sick or injured. Take him for a full check-up, shots and a heartworm blood test every year.Dental HealthPuppies replace their baby teeth with permanent teeth between four and seven months of age. Clean their teeth with a dog toothpaste or a baking-soda-and-water paste once or twice a week. Use a child’s soft toothbrush, a gauze pad or a piece of nylon pantyhose stretched over your finger. Some dogs develop periodontal disease, a pocket of infection between the tooth and the gum. This painful condition can result in tooth loss and is a source of infection for the rest of the body. Veterinarians can clean the teeth as a regular part of your dog’s health program.Fleas and TicksDaily inspections of your dog for fleas and ticks during the warm seasons are important. Use a flea comb to find and remove fleas. There are several new methods of flea and tick control. Speak to your veterinarian about these and other options.NeuteringFemales should be spayed (ovaries and uterus removed) and males neutered (testicles removed) by six months of age. Spaying before maturity significantly reduces the risk of breast cancer, a common and frequently fatal disease of older female dogs. Spaying also eliminates the risk of pyometra (an infected uterus), a very serious problem in older females that requires surgery and intensive medical care. And spaying protects your female pet from having unwanted litters. Neutering males prevents testicular and prostate diseases, some hernias and certain types of aggression (which differ from protectiveness, which this surgery won’t affect).Medicines and PoisonsConsult a veterinarian about using any over-the-counter or prescription medication.Do not give your dog chocolate.Make sure your dog does not have access to rat poison or other rodenticides.Call your veterinarian if you suspect your animal has ingested a poisonous substance. VaccinationsVaccines protect animals and people from specific viral and bacterial infections. They are not a treatment. If your pet gets sick because he is not properly vaccinated, the vaccination should be given after your companion animal recovers.Puppies should be vaccinated with a combination vaccine (called a 5 in 1) at 2, 3 and 4 months of age and then once annually. This vaccine protects the puppy from distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvovirus, and parainfluenza. A puppy’s vaccination program cannot be finished before four months of age. Rottweilers, Doberman pinschers and American Staffordshire terriers/pit bulls should be vaccinated until five months of age. If you have an unvaccinated dog older than four or five months, the dog needs a series of two vaccinations given two to three weeks apart, followed by a yearly vaccination. Do not walk your puppy or your unvaccinated dog outside or put her on the floor of an animal hospital until several days after her final vaccination.Contact a local veterinarian for information on rabies vaccination. Other vaccines for dogs are appropriate in certain situations. Your dog’s veterinarian can tell you about these vaccines.WormsIt is common for dogs, even in urban areas, to be exposed to worms and possible infestation. Microscopic eggs produced by intestinal worms in infected dogs and passed in their feces provide a source of infection for other dogs. There are several types of worms and a few microscopic parasites that commonly affect dogs. Because most of these cannot be seen in feces, a microscopic fecal evaluation is the only satisfactory way to have your puppy or dog checked for intestinal worms and other parasites. Most puppies, even from healthy mothers in good homes, carry roundworms or hookworms. All puppies should be dewormed by a veterinarian regardless of fecal evaluation.Spirocerca lupi - The “worm in the throat”?A worm called Spirocerca lupi is becoming more common in South Africa’s summer rainfall areas, leading to an almost endemic situation. This worm lives in the dog’s oesophagus where it forms a nodule. Many worms can live inside a nodule and numerous nodules can form.The female lays eggs and these are passed in the stool of the dog (host). These eggs have to be eaten by a dung beetle (intermediate host) for the lifecycle to continue. The small dung beetles (scarab beetles) living in the stool are part of the lifecycle, not the dung rollers we are more familiar with. he beetle can be eaten by the dog or another small mammal. The egg hatches and matures to a larval stage three in the beetle and stays in that phase even if eaten by other small mammals, lizards or birds. Further maturation will only occur if the host (beetle or transport host) is eaten by a dog.The third stage larvae hatch and burrow into the stomach wall where they migrate along the arteries back towards the chest portion of the aorta, the main blood vessel in the body. This takes about two weeks. Once in the aortic wall, the worms mature and stay there for about three month. Extensive damage is caused to the aorta during this period and aneurysms develop. These may rupture and cause acute death. Once the worms are mature, they migrate directly across the body tissues to the oesophagus which lies adjacent in the chest. At this stage these worms are about 4-5 cm long and can cause considerable damage, resulting in rupture of large blood vessels, inflammation of the lining structures of the lungs and infection. The worms then establish themselves in the oesophagus where they live, mate and lay eggs.Dogs react differently to these nodules: some dogs, especially fox terriers, show signs of sever irritation with even small nodules (gagging, swallowing, retching) whereas other dogs may show no symptoms until the nodules are large. Other symptoms associated with the migration can be fevers, joint pain, coughing, and difficulty breathing. With time, and due to the chronic irritation caused by the worm in the tissue, these nodules can become cancerous. This is a serious condition which may or may not respond to surgery depending on the extent of the cancer.Diagnosis is best made by doing an oesophageal endoscopy (putting a camera into the oesophagus) and observing for a nodule. Chest X-rays can also help, but may miss some nodules. Not all nodules grow into the oesophagus and a CT scan might also be used to check for these. The worm sometimes gets lost and can make nodules in just about any organ. This is called aberrant migration. If one of your dogs is diagnosed with this worm it is advisable to have all your other dogs checked.Preventative therapy is not yet proven beyond a doubt but evidence shows that you will decrease your chances of re-infection by 80% if you deworm your dogs monthly with a dewormer containing milbemycin oxime (Milbemax?), or use a cattle dewormer doramectin. These anti-parasiticide agents are the only proven drugs to cure and decrease the infection with Spirocera lupi. Spot-on preparations containing these drugs do exist, but there is no evidence that they are effective in treating spirocercosis. Worms that are exposed to these drugs also lay fewer eggs, even before they die, thus decreasing environmental contamination.Deworming your dog monthly is the preferred method of controlling all other worms (round and tapeworm) as their lifecycles are about 21 days long and monthly deworming prevents them from maturing and laying eggs, contaminating your environment. This disease has not been documented to affect humans, and only rarely cats. So take the bull by the horns with this devastating disease and get your dogs checked by your veterinarian and start a monthly preventative program. My dogs are on it . .The benefits of multiple petsIf one four-legged friend brings so much joy into your life, surely more than one boosts the fun, right? While there are compelling benefits to having multiple pets, there are also important considerations to weigh before making the decision to bring additional cats or dogs into your home. When the decision is properly informed, it ensures the multi-pet household dynamic works well for you.More Companionship for YouCats and dogs can be loyal friends. They have a special way of comforting you and bringing a smile to your face, even when you’re not in the best mood. They keep you company, play with you, snuggle you and make you laugh. Multiple pets mean more soft fur to run your hands through and more companionship, even when one of your fuzzy buddies is off on her own.More Companionship for Your PetsYou can’t always be around to entertain your cat or dog. Two or more pets can provide additional companionship for each other. Multiple compatible pets play together, helping stave off under-stimulation and boredom that can lead to behavioral problems. This enriching relationship may also reduce or prevent separation anxiety and ease your conscience when you have to go out. However, more pets don’t add up to a bandage for separation anxiety; you may simply end up with multiple pets sharing the condition, as trainer Kathy Diamond Davis cautions on . Of course, the antics of pets playing together is a great source of amusement. Keep in mind, though, that not all pets get along well, and they may even pose dangers to each other if they fight.Increased Socialization for Your PetsSocializing pets with other companion animals – especially when they’re kittens and puppies – is essential to their emotional development. Cats and dogs need experiences with others to become confident, adaptable and accepting. Socialization teaches your pet to interact with other cats, dogs and people appropriately and with less anxiety, explains Veterinary Pet Insurance. While single-pet parents have to find socialization opportunities out of the home, multi-pet parents have a built-in socializing environment; however socialization with less familiar cats and dogs is still important.Increased Socialization for YouMore pets get you out and interacting more with other people. Because dogs should sometimes be walked and taken out for excursions on their own, having more than one requires extra trips around the neighborhood and to the dog park, where you can chat with neighbors and other pet parents. Multiple pets create more opportunities for trips to the groomer, pet spas or classes and other public places where you meet people who share your love of cats and dogs.Improved Mood and HealthOne pet provides a variety of health benefits, and more than one can compound the effects. You get exercise walking and playing with your pets, which promotes a healthier mind and body; the more pets, the more activity. Among other benefits, sharing your home with furry friends reduces stress, helps lower blood pressure and cholesterol, enhances your mood and lowers the risk of heart attack and stroke, notes Woman’s Day.Decreased Allergies in ChildrenPets are great for kids in so many ways, and as the National Institutes of Health states, children raised in multi-pet households are less likely to develop allergic conditions. As reported in the Journal of the American Medical Association, kids living with more than one cat or dog are at reduced risk for hypersensitivities to common allergens, such as animals, grass, ragweed and dust mites.Enhanced Development for Multiple ChildrenCats and dogs aren’t just beloved companions and sources of comfort to kids. They teach them responsibility, encourage emotional development, promote a nurturing instinct and strengthen family bonds, as Parents Magazine details. In homes with more than one child, having one pet per child helps prevent competition for attention and affection, allows each kid to develop a special bond and provides opportunities for each child to have more involvement.ConsiderationsJust as the decision to share your home with one cat or dog cannot be made lightly, the decision to take on multiple pets calls for a good deal of thought and planning. Some things to keep in mind include:Not all cats and dogs get along with all other cats and dogs – do research and take individual personalities into accountNew cats or dogs must be introduced into the home and to other pets in a carefully controlled mannerMost experts recommend putting at least one to two years between getting cats or dogsPets of the opposite sex often accept each other more readilySpaying and neutering are even more important to prevent pregnancies, dangerous competitive mating behaviors and other complicationsPets may fight over food, toys and turfGroups of dogs can revert to a pack mentalityCats and dogs require a year or more to feel comfortable in a new homePets should spend time apart, or they may bond strongly to the exclusion of bonding with human family membersPet parents must spend time one-on-one with each companion animalTraining needs to occur individuallyCosts increase significantly with additional pets – you pay for more food, toys, bedding, litter, other supplies, medications, veterinary appointments, grooming, boarding, etc.It’s more complicated to travel with more than one companion animalTwo or more pets of the same age may develop age-related health problems – which can be expensive, time-consuming and draining – around the same time and may pass close together, creating a massive emotional burdenSource: links: ................
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