Information Compliments of: - Bird & Exotic Animal Care in ...



BEARDED DRAGONS

Information Compliments of:

Dr. Vanessa Rolfe

The Bird & Exotic Hospital, Inc.

6147 Lake Worth Rd.

Greenacres, FL 33463

561.964.2121

WHY WE RECOMMEND WELLNESS VISITS

Many of the diseases of birds, reptiles, and exotic animals are preventable and are often due to a misunderstanding of proper care and feeding.

Since exotics may hide symptoms late into the course of illness, even “healthy” animals need regular physical examinations. If problems are detected early they usually are more easily treated. We have a special interest in these animals and keep up to date with new medical developments in the field.

During your wellness visit we examine your pet to detect early signs of illness. We review your questions and concerns and provide guidance on care and nutrition. We explain diagnostic and treatment options. A partnership between us to optimize your companion’s care is one of the best ways to keep your pet healthy and to minimize dangerous and costly illness.

THE BIRD & EXOTIC HOSPITAL OFFERS:

√ Wellness consultations for birds and exotic pets

√ Medical care for sick and injured birds and exotic pets

√ Grooming such as wing or nail trims

√ Boarding

√ Diagnostic, surgical, and x-ray procedures

√ Microchipping for identification

√ Vaccinations

√ Consultations for behavior problems and prevention

strategies

√ Demonstrations on handling, monitoring health, medicating,

and dealing with emergencies

√ Emergency care available

BEARDED DRAGON CARE

The bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps) is an omnivorous but mostly herbivorous lizard. They live in hot arid, rocky, semi-desert areas in central Australia. Many affectionately call them ‘beardies.’

Males tend to be larger and have pronounced “femoral pores” (waxy glands on the underside of each thigh). Males also have a more prominent beard, which will get very dark, and larger head. However these signs don’t show up until they are older. The one orifice from which digestive waste (brown) and kidney waste (white paste and water) are excreted is the “vent.”

They are only a few inches long when hatched, but they can over the next 1-2 years, grow to their full length of about 2 feet (including tail).

DIET

The diets of the newly hatched, juvenile, and mature bearded dragon are different, as their needs change. The baby tends to eat more insects with a higher protein, vitamin and calcium level than the mature one that is not growing as rapidly. Without a good diet, young beardies will not grow well, develop bone problems, and are more susceptible to disease. Older lizards don’t quite need the same level of calcium, vitamins, and protein. Therefore, proper feeding is important for keeping them healthy.

Besides the calcium level of the diet, the phosphorus level is quite important. Since a high phosphorus level in the diet will cause a negative effect on calcium and cause it to become lower, you must limit items in the diet that have high phosphorus and low calcium. The following recommendations on feeding incorporate this and emphasize proper foods. I have starred highly recommended foods (*) that should be used more.

Recommended vegetable items: greens* (turnip, collard, mustard, dandelion*), alfalfa* (fresh), clover*, green beans*, kale, endive, broccoli (including leaves and stem), shredded winter squash, shredded carrot,* shredded parsnip, alfalfa* (fresh greens), escarole*, watercress*, parsley, basil and other herbs, yellow and zucchini squash (in small amounts), untreated rose petals*, nasturtiums, hibiscus flowers. NOTE: The majority (70%) of the vegetables offered should be the dark green, leafy types mentioned above. Of these, dandelion and clover greens provide some of the best nutrition.

Protein can come from both vegetarian and animal sources but insect / animal sources are best. Options include: formulated iguana or bearded dragon food, and rabbit or guinea pig pellets* (ground up or softened with water). You can also use alfalfa powder* available at health food stores. Insects such as crickets, mealworms, and also small pinky mice are the best for protein.

With insects, you can dust them with a phosphorus-free calcium powder and also use a gut-loading nutritional supplement to load up the insects with nutrients internally. This vastly increases their nutritional value. Don’t leave more crickets in the cage than your dragon will eat in a short period of time, as the crickets can become hungry and start attacking your lizard.

Limit certain vegetables from the cabbage family (broccoli, cauliflower, and kale) as they tend to inhibit the thyroid gland. Also limit spinach because a chemical in it binds the calcium and prevents it from being absorbed correctly. Do not feed lettuce or celery, as they contain mostly water and can cause severe malnutrition. For a similar reason limit fruit (the better ones to choose are peeled and pitted mango, papaya, pear, blueberries, cherries, strawberries and figs) to small amounts-- most fruits don’t have much nutrients. Do not feed peas or corn because they are also imbalanced.

As noted before, make the majority of the vegetables offered a variety of mixed greens, with a variety of the other vegetables mixed in. Chop or blend everything to an appropriate size and mix well so that the he or she can not select favorites. If your pet does not like an item at first, try many times because it may take some time to become familiar with the new food.

Feed infants (up to a 3 inches nose to vent) several times daily, giving 80% protein sources and 20% vegetable material (finely chopped). Dust the salad with calcium (see notes below) daily, and every few days with a vitamin / mineral powder. You want to choose insect prey that are very small as eating too-large prey can cause damage and have been associated with paralysis. Get tiny pinhead crickets and small mealworms to avoid this. Also pinch the heads off of the mealworms so they cannot cause internal damage either.

Feed adolescents (3-8 inches from nose to vent) daily about 50% protein source and the remainder vegetables, a sprinkle of calcium every few days and vitamins / minerals once weekly.

Adults (over 8 inches long from nose to vent) feed daily (depending on the individual) 80% vegetable items, and limit protein sources to about 20%. Calcium and vitamins / minerals can be lightly sprinkled weekly.

Remember—not all reptile vitamins are alike. Some are better than others. You must examine the “guaranteed analysis” to decide. Look for calcium and phosphorus percentage. Make sure that there is much more calcium than phosphorus. Bring your supplement information with you when you come in for your wellness visit and we can discuss the merits at that time. For a calcium supplement, one can grind up cuttlebones sold for birds, sterilized eggshells, or calcium antacid tablets (such as TumsTM)

These nutritional recommendations are not always applicable in special situations such as illness, recuperation, and gravidity (developing eggs), We will advise you on any special dietary needs your bearded dragon may have during your wellness visit.

Please note that lightning bugs (otherwise known as fireflies) are quite poisonous to bearded dragons and other lizards so please take care not to feed these to your animals.

HOUSING

It is best to make an enclosure out of glass, such as aquariums. It must be easy to clean because poor hygiene can cause infection.

We only recommend newspaper, reptile carpet mats, indoor-outdoor carpeting, or Astroturf to go on the bottom of the cage. Particulate substrate such as sand, sawdust, corncob bedding, wood chips, soil or peat moss is not appropriate because of health risks (i.e., stomach or intestinal blockage, skin infections, mouthrot). You can use digestible al­falfa or grass pellet bedding or rabbit pellets if you keep it very clean and change it daily to avoid contact with feces and discarded food. However, most people tend to spot-clean this leaving some areas still dirty, and this can lead to hygiene issues.

It is important to use a full spectrum light that produces sufficient quantitities of UV-B. These rays will activate vitamin D in the bearded dragon’s skin, which is necessary for calcium absorption. Important: “Grow-bulbs” or regular fluorescent lights will not do this; your bulb must make “UV B.” Some incandescent bulbs market themselves as “full-spectrum” are not likely to have enough UVB to help. Compare the manufacturer’s specifications to make sure you are paying money for the proper type. This bulb will need to be changed every six months because the UVB production drops off steeply after this time.

Direct sunlight is also important because it provides the necessary wavelengths even better than lights. This should be done regularly whenever the outside temperature is warm enough. Please note that the important wavelengths (the UVB) will be filtered out if going through glass or plastic- so any light from the sun or bulbs must be direct rather than through a window. So don’t depend on sun through a closed window or through a wall of the aquarium.

Provide a consistent photoperiod (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) until your youngster stops growing then change it to 12/12. You can buy an inexpensive timer from a hardware store.

Give water in a wide dish for drinking and soaking. Misting the tank occasionally is good even for this desert lizard. Provide low climbing and basking furniture, such as rock ledges. Also give a place to hide, such as a cardboard box. Nontoxic plants to put into the enclosure include spider plants, Wandering Jews, geraniums, nasturtiums, live clover, dandelion and parsley.

Bearded dragons are reasonably social animals and can live in small groups. However, they can still have their individual differences so you want to make sure the group adapts well together. For example, males will probably fight especially in the presence of females so it is best not to house several males together.

TEMPERATURE

Reptiles depend upon external heat to elevate their body temperature, assist digestion, and keep their immune system functioning. Optimally, there should be areas within the enclo­sure at different degrees, allowing the lizard to choose its own body temperature. A beardie needs to have one portion of its living space (a “basking spot”) in the upper 90’s-low 100’s degrees F, with the general cage minimum kept in the mid-to-upper 80’s during the day. The night temperature can go down into the mid 70’s degrees.

You can use thermometers where the lizard stays as a method of properly gauging the temperature. Place several around the cage to determine what the temperature is in the basking area versus in the cooler areas.

Provide both contact and radiant sources of heat although radiant heat sources are best. Use an incandescent bulb for radiant heat (heat lamps may be needed for larger enclosures) where the inquisitive dragon can not reach it. There are ceramic heating elements that provide heat which are ideal- especially for nighttime heat so the lizard can sleep. Make a “basking spot” in the upper 90’s-mid 100’s degrees F. A heating pad can provide contact heat. Place the cage over it and lift one end up on blocks. This will create a temperature gradient. Adjust it so that at the closest point of animal contact is at the proper thermal zone.

There are some commercially available reptile heat supply units (“hot rocks” or adhesive heating pads). These are generally not well made and cause severe burns if too hot or provide insufficient temperature if too cool. Ideally use the heating pad.

WHEN SHOULD MY BEARDIE SEE A VET?

Proper care can prevent the majority of problems seen by reptile veterinarians. These exotic animals are very good at hiding symptoms until later in illness. Preventive checkups can catch disease early, when they can be more easily and less expensively treated. Therefore, all pets even if thought to be healthy should receive initial and then regular (ideally every six months but at least annual) wellness examinations by a veterinarian familiar with the type of pet. All reptiles should also have fecal examina­tions performed for detection of internal parasites, and dewormed if necessary. Adult lizards may need annual blood tests for checking kidney function.

You should call your veterinarian if you see symptoms such as: abnormal behavior, anorexia, slow growth rate, enlargement of leg bones, change in the jaw, abnormal stool or urine, skin disease, or anything else out of the ordinary. It is better to take action sooner than later or to have a false call rather than a severely ill pet.

Common problems seen are metabolic bone disease from cal­cium deficiencies with an imbalanced diet, bacterial infections, parasite in­fections, skin infections, and slow growth rate. Proper care can often prevent these.

Use common sense when choosing a bearded dragon. Look for one that has a plump belly and has no sharp edges over the bones. The backbone or the hips should not stick up. He should be strong, alert, quick, and have bright eyes. There should be no discharge from the eyes, mouth, or nose. Abnormally shaped bones can indicate serious problems.

There are some diseases people can catch from their reptiles. The most common one is called “Salmonellosis” and is due to the reptile being host to a bacteria that can cause disease when caught by some people. For specific recommendations contact your physician and veterinarian. Many authorities recommend that people with compromised immune systems refrain from handling and cleaning up after reptiles. All people should use proper hygiene after handling reptiles and wash their hands carefully.

This handout is not to substitute for veterinary care or advice. For more information or to set up a wellness visit, please call the number at the top of the page.

COPYRIGHT THE BIRD & EXOTIC HOSPITAL, INC. 2008

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