J.Crew Imports



Inc.Standard Operating ProcedureVersion 1.0 July 2018Table of ContentsSectionPageA. Standard Operating Procedure (SOP3B. Background4C. Color Requirements51. Prerequisites62. Official Color Standard63. Laboratory Conditions84. Color – Matching95. Submission Forms116. Color Submission on Dips117. Color Submission on Bulk128. Evaluation Results139. Color Ownership (After Edit)13STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDUREColor Development and Approval for J.Crew Group:Phase IVersion: 1Owner: Ivy StrattonDate: 4/1/2018STEPSOWNERColor target and name are selected for the seasonJCG –Color Development Team (NY)Suppliers are informed of color target, name, and submission deadlinesJCG –Color Development Team (NY)Purchase Color Standards from approved suppliersRMSDistribute to key dyehousesRMSDevelop lab dips and dyelotsRMSScreen and check lab dips and dyelots RMSSubmit lab dips for solid colors to appropriate regional JCG contact.RMSApprove lab dips for solid colorsJCGRMSPHASE 1approved by RMS internallyJCGIndicate pass/fail comments on the JCG JCI or NATIFICJCGRe-submit?RMSDevelop bulk for production approvalRMSSubmit bulk to appropriate regional JCG contactRMSApprove bulk for productionJCGBACKGROUNDThis is a section to standardize the processes and procedures for vendors or suppliers when supplying fabrics for J.Crew Group, LLC(JCG) garments. This includes J.Crew retail, Factory, Mercantile, Crewcuts, Nevereven, Madewell.50482519685Key of Responsible Parties[JCG]= J.Crew Group, LLC.[RMS]= Raw Materials Supplier[NY-CL]= J.Crew New York Color Lab[JC-HKCL]= J.Crew Hong Kong, Color lab0Key of Responsible Parties[JCG]= J.Crew Group, LLC.[RMS]= Raw Materials Supplier[NY-CL]= J.Crew New York Color Lab[JC-HKCL]= J.Crew Hong Kong, Color labPlease note: JCG holds final color approvals or rejection for lab dips and bulk based on visual and digital given by JCG. COLOR REQUIREMENTS 1. Prerequisites [Raw Material Supplier/Dye House]The following are required when doing business with J.Crew Group:Macbeth Spectralight lightboxDatacolor Spectrophotometer Ability to maintain shade variation according to JCG standardsDedicated Colorist that can screen lab dips and dyelots prior to submission to JCG ColoristsSubmit Mill Evaluation Report when it is a new dye house for JCGOfficial Color Standard/Seasonal Color PaletteThe Color & Concept team (NY Office) will select target and name for the season [JCG]Physical Color Standards provided by Standard services are required by [JCG] Purchase DIGITAL (QTX) color standards through Pantone or Sophicolor – Exhibit A [RMS]Must be sure to buy QTX Data of color standards to provide to your key RMS [RMS]The Official Color Standard is to be used for development and bulk productionSuppliers are not permitted to cut the Official Color Standard Swatch JCG Color Name and Code is used for all communication – Exhibit BPlease set up the filing system based on Color Name [RMS]43649903863975Exhibit B00Exhibit B11423653859530Exhibit A00Exhibit A300863031813500-21431322637800Laboratory Conditions for Color Standard Storage [RMS]Temperature : 69.8℉ +/- 2℉ degrees (21℃ +/- 2℃ degree)Relative Humidity : 50% +/- 15%BHT free storage bagsAway from direct light, pressure, or chemical influenceColor – MatchingColor matching will be handled by the Color lab in the NY and HK Office for specified fabrications only.All lab dips and dyelots are to be digitally read compared to Digital QTX provide by Standard Services by spectrophotometer prior to submission. [RMS]Colorist in region requires Primary Digital Color approval, secondary Visual Color-Matching [JCG]Here is a checklist to follow before submission [RMS]:Check the lab dips/dyelots against Official Color Standard both visually and through a Spectrophotometer*Check that dips are free of metamerism Ensure all submissions are within JCG’s set tolerances*Trims fabrics e.g. lace, twill tape, sweaters, yarnsand non-spectro Compliant substrates are not required to takespectral readingVisual Color – Matching [RMS]Macbeth Spectralight lightbox must be used for all visual assessmentsThe lightbox must be placed in a dark room in suitable standing height and surrounded with a blackout curtainThe lightbox must be clean and clear of other samplesThe lightbox must have neutral grey walls with a non-shiny surfaceThe swatches must be viewed at a 45° angle All colors must match Official Color Standard under 2 sources of light –D65 and INCA- Artificial Daylight (D65) CT=6504° K- Incandescent Lamp (INC A) CT=2856° KThe light box must be maintained annually with Certificate posted on the outside of the lightboxThe swatches should be viewed side-by-sideAll dips and dyelots should be made from the least metameric dyestuffs 34575751143000Exhibit C Incorrect way of viewing.Curtain should not be open to outside light.Exhibit C Incorrect way of viewing.Curtain should not be open to outside light.3333750954405Exhibit DCorrect way of viewing.Curtain must be kept closed.Exhibit DCorrect way of viewing.Curtain must be kept closed.Digital Color-Matching [RMS]Software SettingDatacolor 800 SpectrophotometerColorTOOLS 2.1 software (or most recent version/update)Recipe Prediction software from DatacolorColor Difference: CMC (2:1)Specular component: IncludedUV Component: UV 0%Illuminants:Primary: Daylight (D65 10 degrees) Secondary: Incandescent : (A 10 degrees) Aperture: MAV minimum, LAV preferred**LAV is required for all Bulk**Calibration Interval 8 hoursDatacolor Condition Box:Temperature: 69.8℉ +/- 2℉ degrees (21℃ +/- 2℃ degrees)Humidity: 50% +/- 15%Conditioning time must be no less than 15 mins and no greater than 30 mins. Measurement Technique [RMS]right10160Number of Reads Averaged4 with 90° degree rotationNumber of Layers4 (or opaque enough)Sample Orientationface, 4 different locationsInstrument Checksdaily green-tile diagnostic020000Number of Reads Averaged4 with 90° degree rotationNumber of Layers4 (or opaque enough)Sample Orientationface, 4 different locationsInstrument Checksdaily green-tile diagnosticAlAll lab dips and dyelots must be conditioned before measuringEquipment must be calibrated in accordance to manufacturer’s recommendationsThe swatch is measured against the stored QTX or the color service digital QTXIf the measurements meet JCG’s tolerance, send to Colorist in HK Office or NY office, depending on region and specified fabrications by JCGAll submissions should include QTX reading of CMC DE readings for all 2 lightsources in EnglishDigital readings must indicate the JCG standard name & code, fabrication, season, Pantone or Sophicolor name & number, and the submit info clearly written JCG may give Custom Color standards to suppliersThe intention of this direction is to ensure color meets the expectation of same quadrant from various suppliers or productsPlease save Approved Lab Dip & Dyelot spectral data in the Color Computer9525342900All spectro compliant substrates must be compared back to the standard service (Pantone or SophiColor) digital QTX files both lab dip and bulk.DE(CMC)Lab Dip 0.80Bulk* 1.00* Please see section 7 for complete bulk requirements00All spectro compliant substrates must be compared back to the standard service (Pantone or SophiColor) digital QTX files both lab dip and bulk.DE(CMC)Lab Dip 0.80Bulk* 1.00* Please see section 7 for complete bulk requirements Tolerance [RMS]5. Submission Forms [RMS]Submission Forms must be completely and correctly filled out to ensure correct review and approvalStandard FormatsLab Dip Submission FormBulk Dyelot Submission Form Print Strike-Off Submission FormGraphic/Embroidery Submission FormTrim/Label Submission Form6. Color Submission on Dips [RMS]SolidAll submits must be mounted on Submission Forms using double-stick tape Incomplete forms will not be reviewed and will be returnedRMS should assume responsibility of proper timing on submission datesNo extension of delivery will be granted if dip is still rejectingLab dip submits should follow an alphabetic formate.g. if first submits are from A to C, then 2nd submit will be in D to F, etc…All submits should be attached with Spectral readingLab dips are required to be minimum 4 ” x 4 ” For same dyehouse which will proceed different fabrications, JCG will align and only approve one dip for allPlease check with Colorist in NY Office before dipping if there are any concerns or questions7. Color Submission on Bulk [RMS]First Lot ApprovalAll submits must be mounted on Bulk Submission Forms Incomplete forms will not be reviewed and will be returnedAll samples should be no smaller than 8” x 10” and cut from the center of the fabric, not from the edgeInitial bulk lot within CMC DE of 1.0 should be sent to HK office for approval for specified suppliers onlyNon spectro compliant substrates or colors will be sent to NY office for visual evaluationNon compliant bulk lots or failed attempts due to timing that can not be remade will be sent to NY office for visual evaluationSubsequent bulk lots should have digital data sent for auditing purposes Bulk tolerance is extended to the approved labdip point, in case its labdip is approved out of the tolerance CMC DE 1.0. Bulk lots with CMC DE greater than 1.0 but less than a 1.5 should be sent for visual review to NY officeBulk lots with CMC DE greater than 1.5 must be remade at suppliers own expenseThere will be seasonal audits of bulk lots submitted to by accredited millsShadebandColorist in region will set up not more than 5 batches as the shade range for the colorAll the bulk colors should be within the set-up shade rangeFor Subsequent lots, supplier can review against shadeband and make sure they are within the range8. Evaluation Results [JCG]Final Pass/Fail comments will be indicated on the PLM or Natific ASAP & Color warehouse00Color Ownership (After Edit)(*)Pattern Wash – eg, Acid wash, tie-dye, etc..AppendixJ.Crew Corporate Office:770 Broadway 11th FloorNew York, NY 10003Office Phone: 212.209.2500Direct Color contact: Ivy Stratton Ext. 88273Ivy.Stratton@J. Crew Sourcing Asia Limited:Room 2607 – 10, One Harbourfront, 18 Tak Fung Street, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong KongOffice Phone: +852 2186 3160 Color Standard Services Contacts:Pantone Western HemispherePantoneWorld Headquarters590 Commerce Blvd.Carlstadt, NJ 07072-3098U.S.A.P: 201-935-5500F: 201-896-0242Email Pantone SupportDirections by CarEurope, Middle East and AfricaPantone LLCInternational HouseDover PlaceAshfordKent TN23 1HUUnited KingdomP: +44 (0)1233 225 450store.?Asia PacificX-Rite/Asia PacificSuite 2801, 28th FloorAXA Tower, Landmark East100 How Ming Street, Kwun TongKowloon, Hong Kong S.A.R.ChinaP:?(852)272-48822F: (852)?2885 8610.hk?SophiColor Precision Color Textiles Inc.244 Liberty Street, Suite 4Brockton, MA 02301508.897.6620infor@PLM #SUPPLIER USE JCI #J.CREW USE ONLY J. CREW LAB DIP SUBMIT ? RETAIL ? FACTORY ? MERCANTILE ? CREWCUTS COUNTRY:J.CREW COLOR NAME: J.CREW COLOR CODE: SUBMISSION DATE: APPROVE BY DATE: ? PANTONE? ? SOPHICOLOR? SEASON: CODE: CODE: D#:DIVISION: ? MENS ? WOMENS ? GIRLS ? BOYS ? HOME STYLE: CATEGORY: ? KNITS ? SWEATERS ? WOVENS ? SUITING VENDOR: ? SWIM ?LINING ? ACCESSORIES ? TRIM AGENT: FABRIC CONTENT: MILL: NY REP:ARTICLE NO.: ROUND #: NOTES/REMARKS: PRODUCTION ASST:?COMBO FABRIC: ? CONTRAST:? PRIMARY:? SECONDARY:2” X 2” SWATCHAFFIX HERE2” X 2” SWATCHAFFIX HERE2’’ X 2’’ SWATCHAFFIX HERESUBMIT #SUBMIT #SUBMIT # BELOW SECTION TO BE COMPLETED BY JCREW ASSOCIATE ONLY VALUE: % DARKER % LIGHTER % DARKER % LIGHTER % DARKER % LIGHTERCHROMA: % MORE SATURATED % MORE SATURATED % MORE SATURATED % LESS SATURATED % LESS SATURATED % LESS SATURATED HUE: % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE GREEN % ? LESS ? MORE GREEN % ? LESS ? MORE GREENCOMMENTS: ? SPECTRAL DATA INCLUDED RESULT: APPROVED REJECTED C/P BULKJCI #J.CREW USE ONLYJ. CREW BULK LOT SUBMIT ? RETAIL ? FACTORY ? MERCANTILE ? CREWCUTS COUNTRY:J.CREW COLOR NAME: J.CREW COLOR CODE: SUBMISSION DATE: APPROVE BY DATE: ? PANTONE? ? SOPHICOLOR? SEASON: CODE: CODE: D#:DIVISION: ? MENS ? WOMENS ? GIRLS ? BOYS ? HOME STYLE: CATEGORY: ? KNITS ? SWEATERS ? WOVENS ? SUITING PO#: ? SWIM ?LINING ? ACCESSORIES ? TRIM VENDORFABRIC CONTENT: AGENT: MILL:ARTICLE NO.: NY REP: NOTES/REMARKS: PRODUCTION ASST:?COMBO FABRIC: ? CONTRAST:? PRIMARY:? SECONDARY: BASED ON APPROVED JCI #: DYELOT #: TOTAL YDG: ? SPECTRAL DATA INCLUDED ?MILL APPROVED ? APPROVED ?REJECTED PLM #SUPPLIER USEJCI #MADEWELL USE ONLYMADEWELL LAB DIP SUBMIT ? RETAIL ? WHOLESALE COUNTRY: MADEWELL COLOR NAME: MADEWELL COLOR CODE: SUBMISSION DATE: APPROVE BY DATE: ? PANTONE? ? SOPHICOLOR? SEASON: CODE: CODE: D#:DIVISION: ? MENS ? WOMENS ? HOME STYLE: CATEGORY: ? KNITS ? SWEATERS ? WOVENS ? SUITING VENDOR: ? SWIM ?LINING ? ACCESSORIES ? TRIM AGENT: FABRIC CONTENT: MILL: NY REP:ARTICLE NO.: ROUND #: NOTES/REMARKS: PRODUCTION ASST:?COMBO FABRIC: ? CONTRAST:? PRIMARY:? SECONDARY:2” X 2” SWATCHAFFIX HERE2” X 2” SWATCHAFFIX HERE2’’ X 2’’ SWATCHAFFIX HERESUBMIT #SUBMIT #SUBMIT # BELOW SECTION TO BE COMPLETED BY JCREW ASSOCIATE ONLY VALUE: % DARKER % LIGHTER % DARKER % LIGHTER % DARKER % LIGHTERCHROMA: % MORE SATURATED % MORE SATURATED % MORE SATURATED % LESS SATURATED % LESS SATURATED % LESS SATURATED HUE: % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE GREEN % ? LESS ? MORE GREEN % ? LESS ? MORE GREENCOMMENTS: ? SPECTRAL DATA INCLUDED RESULT: APPROVED REJECTED C/P BULKJCI #MADEWELL USE ONLYMADEWELL BULK LOT SUBMIT ? RETAIL ? WHOLESALE COUNTRY: MADEWELL COLOR NAME: MADEWELL COLOR CODE: SUBMISSION DATE: APPROVE BY DATE: ? PANTONE? ? SOPHICOLOR? SEASON: CODE: CODE: D#:DIVISION: ? MENS ? WOMENS ? HOME STYLE: CATEGORY: ? KNITS ? SWEATERS ? WOVENS ? SUITING PO#: ? SWIM ?LINING ? ACCESSORIES ? TRIM VENDORFABRIC CONTENT: AGENT: MILL:ARTICLE NO.: NY REP: NOTES/REMARKS: PRODUCTION ASST:?COMBO FABRIC: ? CONTRAST:? PRIMARY:? SECONDARY: BASED ON APPROVED JCI #: DYELOT #: TOTAL YDG: ? SPECTRAL DATA INCLUDED ?MILL APPROVED ? APPROVED ?REJECTED PLM #SUPPLIER USEJCI #NEVEREVEN USE ONLYNEVEREVEN LAB DIP SUBMIT ? RETAIL ? WHOLESALECOUNTRY: NEVEREVEN COLOR NAME: NEVEREVEN COLOR CODE: SUBMISSION DATE: APPROVE BY DATE: ? PANTONE? ? SOPHICOLOR? SEASON: CODE: CODE: D#:DIVISION: ? MENS ? WOMENS ? HOME STYLE: CATEGORY: ? KNITS ? SWEATERS ? WOVENS ? SUITING VENDOR: ? SWIM ?LINING ? ACCESSORIES ? TRIM AGENT: FABRIC CONTENT: MILL: NY REP:ARTICLE NO.: ROUND #: NOTES/REMARKS: PRODUCTION ASST:?COMBO FABRIC: ? CONTRAST:? PRIMARY:? SECONDARY:2” X 2” SWATCHAFFIX HERE2” X 2” SWATCHAFFIX HERE2’’ X 2’’ SWATCHAFFIX HERESUBMIT #SUBMIT #SUBMIT # BELOW SECTION TO BE COMPLETED BY JCREW ASSOCIATE ONLY VALUE: % DARKER % LIGHTER % DARKER % LIGHTER % DARKER % LIGHTERCHROMA: % MORE SATURATED % MORE SATURATED % MORE SATURATED % LESS SATURATED % LESS SATURATED % LESS SATURATED HUE: % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE GREEN % ? LESS ? MORE GREEN % ? LESS ? MORE GREENCOMMENTS: ? SPECTRAL DATA INCLUDED RESULT: APPROVED REJECTED C/P BULKJCI #NEVEREVEN USE ONLYNEVEREVEN BULK LOT SUBMIT ? RETAIL ? WHOLESALE COUNTRY: NEVEREVEN COLOR NAME: NEVEREVEN COLOR CODE: SUBMISSION DATE: APPROVE BY DATE: ? PANTONE? ? SOPHICOLOR? SEASON: CODE: CODE: D#:DIVISION: ? MENS ? WOMENS ? HOME STYLE: CATEGORY: ? KNITS ? SWEATERS ? WOVENS ? SUITING PO#: ? SWIM ?LINING ? ACCESSORIES ? TRIM VENDORFABRIC CONTENT: AGENT: MILL:ARTICLE NO.: NY REP: NOTES/REMARKS: PRODUCTION ASST:?COMBO FABRIC: ? CONTRAST:? PRIMARY:? SECONDARY: BASED ON APPROVED JCI #: DYELOT #: TOTAL YDG: ? SPECTRAL DATA INCLUDED ?MILL APPROVED ? APPROVED ?REJECTED PLM #SUPPLIER USE JCI #J.CREW USE ONLYJ. CREW LAB DIP SUBMIT RETAIL ? FACTORY ? MERCANTILE ? CREWCUTS COUNTRY: CHINAJ.CREW COLOR NAME: J.CREW COLOR CODE: SUBMISSION DATE: 7/4/2018BRIGHT CERISERD-5100 APPROVE BY DATE: 7/10/2018 PANTONE? ? SOPHICOLOR? SEASON:HOL ‘18 CODE: 18-1662 TCX CODE: D#: 401789 405897 DIVISION: MENS ? WOMENS ? GIRLS ? BOYS ? HOME STYLE: K4589 J4879 CATEGORY: ?KNITS SWEATERS ? WOVENS ? SUITING VENDOR: KNIT SOURCES ? SWIM ?LINING ? ACCESSORIES ? TRIM AGENT: PRIMESPOT FABRIC CONTENT: MILL: UPW2/14 NM 60% MERINO WOOL 40% NYLON NY REP:ARTICLE NO.: SU046-2150 ROUND #: 1 NOTES/REMARKS: PRODUCTION ASST:?COMBO FABRIC: ? CONTRAST:? PRIMARY:? SECONDARY:-516890193675EXAMPLE00EXAMPLE2” X 2” SWATCHAFFIX HERE2” X 2” SWATCHAFFIX HERE2’’ X 2’’ SWATCHAFFIX HERESUBMIT #SUBMIT #SUBMIT # BELOW SECTION TO BE COMPLETED BY JCREW ASSOCIATE ONLY VALUE: % DARKER % LIGHTER % DARKER % LIGHTER % DARKER % LIGHTERCHROMA: % MORE SATURATED % MORE SATURATED % MORE SATURATED % LESS SATURATED % LESS SATURATED % LESS SATURATED HUE: % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE RED % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE BLUE % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE YELLOW % ? LESS ? MORE GREEN % ? LESS ? MORE GREEN % ? LESS ? MORE GREENCOMMENTS: ? SPECTRAL DATA INCLUDED RESULT: APPROVED REJECTED C/P BULK ................
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