Subject: ECCU Pin #/voltages



Subject: ECCU Pin #/voltages

: I left a message here a while back which some kind soul responded to, but didn't have a chance to save it!

: What is the pin #, voltage, and wire colors of these things please, for an 84 300zxt

: 1) Crank angle sensor

: 2) CHTS

: 3) Vehicle speed sensor

Crank angle sensor:

B/W 35

G/B 17

B 28/36/EARTH

G/Y 8

CHTS

Y/G 23

B 26

Vehicle speed sensor

PU 29

Bye, Tom

Subject: Farenheit to celsius on heater controls

I was fixing my radio today(4th time) and remembered

someone who said there was a jumper to convert the

heater controls to celcius, so i went looking. It's

labelled "jmp1" It's not a jumper actually, just some

printing on the board with a line connecting 2 solder

points which you connect with a wire(or cut the wire

to go C to F) I tried the one labelled "jmp2" also,

but it didn't do anything.

So anyone know how to convert the dash?

Morgan

Subject: Rear wiper: Off in the UP position

: Just wondering but can the Z rear wiper be interchange so that

: instead of it being down when it's not in use, it up point

: up like the RX-7 rear wipers and some of the newer model wiper?

: Has anyone done this conversion? and what are the steps?

: Thanks...

: Nick O'Brian

: : Take the wiper arm off. Unplug the wires and remove the wiper motor. Take off the plate on the gear box. Remove that round disk, turn it 180 degrees and reinstall. Reinstall the motor, turn it on, let it run for a little bit and shut it off. Reinstall in the new upright position.

: : P.S. You can now use a longer wiper blade.

: : Bruce84t

Subject: 84 turbo computer pin out

84T ECCS Connector

pin/wire color/destination

1 X

2 L..........AAC

3 L..........Ign Coil, Pwr Trans

4 L/W.....EGR Control Solenoid

5 G/B......Pwr Trans

6 R..........EFI Relay

7 X

8 G/Y.....CAS (sheilded)

9 Y..........Ig Switch

10 X

11 G.......Unused Connector

12 R/W. AFM

13 X

14 X

15 Y........Fuel Temp Sensor

16 B........Air Reg

17 G/B....CAS (sheilded)

18 P/L.....TVS

21 W........Detonation Sensor (sheilded)

22 Y/G.....A/C Relay, Headlamp Switch

23 Y/G.....Pres Reg Con Modulator, CHTS

24 B.........Oxygen Sensor (sheilded)

25 L/G.....TVS

26 B..........CHTS, AFM

27 B/W.....Pin #35

28 B..........Pin #36

29 PU.......Combo Meter (Vehicle Speed Sensor)

30 Y/G.....AFM

31 B.........AFM (sheilded)

32 X

33 X

34 G/W...Ig Coil, 15A Fuse in Fuse Block

35 B/W...AFM (sheilded), AAC, EGR Con Soleniod, CAS (sheilded)

36 B........Bonding Wire for Sheilding, CAS (sheilded)

101 G.......Injector #1

102 G/B...Injector #2

103 G/L...Injector #3

104 G/Y...Injector #4

105 G/R...Injector #5

106 G/W..Injector #6

107 B.......Ground, FICD Soleniod Valve; Pins #109, 112, 113

108 B.......Fuel Pump Relay (sheilded), Fuel Pump (sheilded)

109 B.......Same as #107

110 X

111 X

112 B.......Same as #107

113 B.......Same as #107

114 R.......Fusible Link, Injectors

115 Y.......Pres Reg Con Modulator, Oxygen Sensor

Subject: 86 computer pin out

86 ECCS Connector

pin/wire color/destination

1 R..........-not used-

2 L..........AAC valve(T), Idle-up solenoid(NA)

3 L..........Ign Coil, Pwr Trans

4 L/W........EGR Control Solenoid

5 G/B........Pwr Transistor

6 R..........EFI Relay

7 SB.........To Combination Meter (digital type)

8 G/Y........CAS (shielded)

9 Y..........Ign Switch

10 BR........Neutral Switch(M) or Inhibitor Switch(A)

11 G.........-not used-

12 R/W.. ....AFM

13 -no pin-

14 Y/G.......AIV Solenoid

15 Y.........Fuel Temp Sensor

16 B.........Air Reg

17 G/B.......CAS (shielded)

18 P/L.......Throttle Valve Switch

21 W.........Detonation Sensor (shielded) (T)

22 Y/G.......to A/C system(NA),pwr steering sw (NA),

.....FICD solenoid valve(T),AC compressor relay(T)

23 Y/G.......CHTS

24 B.........Oxygen Sensor (shielded)

25 L/G.......Throttle Valve Switch

26 B.........CHTS, AFM

27 B/W.......Pin #35

28 B.........Pin #36

29 PU........Combo Meter (Vehicle Speed Sensor)(T)

30 Y/G.......AFM

31 B.........AFM (shielded)

32 -no pin-

33 -no pin-

34 G/W.......Ign Coil, 15A Fuse in Fuse Block

35 B/W.......Pressure Reg. Control valve, EAI solenoid, EFI Relay, EGR control ...solenoid, CAS (shielded), Idle-up solenoid (NA), AAC valve (T), AFM

36 B.........Bonding Wire for Shielding, CAS (shielded), CAS, body ground

101 G.......Injector #1

102 G/B.....Injector #2(T) Injector #3 (NA)

103 G/L.....Injector #3(T), Injector #5 (NA)

104 G/Y.....Injector #4(T), Injector #2 (NA)

105 G/R.....Injector #5(T), Injector #4 (NA)

106 G/W.....Injector #6

107 B.......FICD Solenoid Valve(T & NA), Pins #109, 112, 113, body ground

108 B.......Fuel Pump Relay (shielded), Fuel Pump (shielded)

109 B.......Same as #107

110 -no pin-

111 -no pin-

112 B.......Same as #107

113 B.......Same as #107

114 R.......Fusible Link, Injectors 12+ source

115 -no pin-

Notes:

1 most control voltages seem to be negative such as fuel pump, injectors and the Ignition coil. Because of this, a good ground is important!

2 The injector wiring difference between T’s and NA’s might be a contributing cause to hesitation’s after the injector campaign. There is not much of a difference between the T and NA’s wiring, most notably the difference in wiring of the FICD and AAC valve on the T’s and FICD and Idle-up solenoid on the NA’s.

3 not many differences between the 84 and 86, notably the lack of the fuel pressure regulator control module (pin #115). Also noted are the lack of the headlight switch (pin #22) which probably effects the idle speed and the addition of the AIV (air injection valve) on the 86 models.

Subject: 84 NA ECCS Pinout

Subject: 84 normally aspirated computer pin out

84NA ECCS Connector

pin/wire color/destination

1 X

2 L..........FICD/Idle up Solonoid

3 L..........Ign Coil, Pwr Trans

4 L/W.....EGR Control Solenoid

5 G/B......Pwr Trans

6 R..........EFI Relay

7 X

8 G/Y.....CAS (sheilded)

9 Y..........Ig Switch, G/Y to Pressure Reg Con Module

10 X

11 G.......Unused Connector

12 R/W. AFM

13 X

14 X

15 Y........Fuel Temp Sensor

16 B........Air Reg

17 G/B....CAS (sheilded)

18 P/L.....TVS

21 X

22 Y/G.....A/C System, Headlamp Switch

23 Y/G.....Pres Reg Con Modulator, CHTS

24 B.........Oxygen Sensor (sheilded)

25 L/G......TVS

26 B..........CHTS, AFM

27 B/W.....Pin #35

28 B..........Pin #36

29 X

30 Y/G.....AFM

31 B.........AFM (sheilded)

32 X

33 X

34 G/W...Ig Coil, 15A Fuse in Fuse Block

35 B/W...AFM (sheilded), FICD/Idle up, EGR Con Soleniod, CAS (sheilded), L/R to Pres Con Reg Solenoid, G to Pres Reg Con Mod

36 B........Bonding Wire for Sheilding, CAS (sheilded), Pressure Reg Con Mod, Unused Connector

101 G.......Injector #1

102 G/B...Injector #3

103 G/L...Injector #5

104 G/Y...Injector #2

105 G/R...Injector #4

106 G/W..Injector #6

107 B.......Ground, FICD Soleniod Valve; Pins #109, 112, 113

108 B.......Fuel Pump Relay (sheilded), Fuel Pump (sheilded)

109 B.......Same as #107

110 X

111 X

112 B.......Same as #107

113 B.......Same as #107

114 R.......Fusible Link, Injectors

115 Y.......Pres Reg Con Modulator, Oxygen Sensor

Subject: electronics on auto-manual swap

All you need to know about wiring when replacing and auto with a 5spd.

1) Unless you are replacing a automatic in a 84T auto car the auto you remove is an E4N71B.

After removal you will have unplugged 3 solenoids a 4 pin connector which goes into tranny and a 8 pin connector which goes to the inhibitor switch. Inhibitor switch is the elec gadget where the shift linkage actually goes into the tranny.

a)The 4 pin connector should be taped at the harness. It is under the battery.

b)The 3 solenoids plug into a short harness that also goes to the oil pressure sensor and then attaches to the main harness with a 6 pin connector just below the battery. Tape the three connectors that went to the solenoids. Leave the 6 pin plugged into the harness and the oil pressure sensor connected. Now place the three taped connectors up out of the way where they can’t fall down and drag on the ground.

c)All that is left is the 8 pin connector below the battery (the one that connects to the inhibitor switch. If you look at the plug that is physically attached to the wires going to the inhibitor switch the 8 wires are Red/black, Black/Yellow, Black/white, Black/blue, Red, White, Yellow and Blue. We are only interested in three of them they are Red/Black Black/Yellow and Black/white.

The red/black is a ground. For starting the Black/Yellow must be grounded(connected to the R/B) however whenever this wire is grounded the cruse control is disabled. If you have a BWT5 5spd or later model Nissan 5spd with a neutral switch just connect these 2 wires to the neutral switch on the tranny.

Now car starts with tranny in neutral and cruse works when car in gear.

Now connect the same B/R and the B/W wires to the reverse switch in the tranny and now your backup lights come on when ign is on and tranny is in reverse. Don’t worry about order of 2 wires to neural switch or reverse switch as the switches just connect the 2 leads together when in the proper gear.

Also please do attach the switch that came with your clutch pedal bracket to the harness wire that is just lying there to be used. It protects your car by disengaging cruse when you step on the clutch (and make sure it and both brake switches have proper nylon bumpers to activate the switches.)

Now if you use an early Nissan 5 spd with no neutral switch I suggest this. Get a turbo headlight washer switch at junkyard. It has a hole for it pre cut in your center counsel. Just pop it in and connect the R/B and B/Y wires to it. The push the switch when you want to turn key and start car (neat theft deterrent). And once switch is released the cruse works normally.

If your car was an 84T auto it had a 4N71B auto with an inhibitor switch with only 4 pins. Looking at the plug physically attached to the 4 wires which are physically attached to the inhibitor switch place the locking tab at the top now looking into the connector with the wires exiting away from you. The upper left wire is wire 1 the lower left is 2 the upper right is 3 and the lower right is 4. Connect wires 1 and 2 to the neutral switch and wires 3 and 4 to the reverse switch.

That is it now you are wired properly

Subject: 84 specific aut-manual transmisison swap wiring

I belive those instructions tell you to jump a 6-pin connector. But when I did mine I couldn't find this connector because I had an 84-style auto trans. The connector you want to jump is the 4-pin that you pulled out of the tranny. Facing the connector, the right side 2 go to the brake switch that you swapped out for the clutch switch. If you wire it to the neutral switch on the trans, make sure the switch has continuity in neutral. The left side 2 go to the reverse switch on the trans. I just hope you didn't short out the ECU by jumping the wrong connector, that would suck.

No, you do not need to change ECU/wiring for the swap.

: I considered swapping trannys on my 300zx, but after I talked to the Nissan dealer, I decided against it. They told me that I would need to change the ECU and most of the wiring, making the change would not even be worth the money it would cost.. but you can always try I guess! =)

Subject: sensor light reset

: Sensor light just came on! 100000 miles ... Where is the reset? Thanks guys!

Remove the glovebox as follows:

Drop the glovebox door by pressing in the sides releasing the door stops from their holes.

Remove the screws (4 trim/2 latch).

Pull the box out and lower it out of the way.

At the top of the glovebox frame slightly to the left locate a relay. On the right side of the relay you'll feel a rubber-covered button/plunger. Press it in and you'll hear the relay spring reset. Turn the ignition switch on, the sensor light should be off.

Reassemble.

Enjoy the ride!

Subject: fix for vacuum pump always running

Turn key to on don't start car.

Turn AC on or turn cruse switch on still don't start car.

Now iv vacuum resivor has low vacuum the pump will run.

If it runs more then a minute or so you have either

1) A vacuum leak

or

2) A bad vacuum sensor in the resivor

or

3)A failed check valve.

To check for 1 pinch the vacuum or pull of and plug one at a time the 3 vaqcuum lines comming out of resivor on the side toward the engine fan.

If pluging/ pinching one lets pump stop after a minute or so you have located prob. If not it is the sensor.

The 3 small lines/hoses are

1) from resivor to manifold this one should have a check valve at resivor nipple (if you attach hose ti resivor nipple you should be able to suck but not blow)

2) Goes to hot water valve at right rear of engine. It is the hose with the wires near it. The wires open and close a valve to this hose.

3)A hose that goes thru fire wall and supplies vacuum to AC controls inside car.

The bigger hose goes to cruse servo near right strut tower.

On the other side of the canister (the side toward the fender) is a small hose which conests to the vacuum pump and the vacuum sensor with wires.

Subject: More AC fixes

This might be archive material-

Replacement of defective vacuum motors in the climate control system.

This was done on an 85 N/A with automatic climate control and digital dash. I have had problems with the A/C just about as long as I have owned the car. It never put out enough airflow to cool the car. Over time, I have replaced every piece of vacuum hose in the system. This did not correct the problems. Finally, I traced the problem to two vacuum motors that operate air mix doors one and two as per the diagrams in the service manual.

To troubleshoot, I applied vacuum directly to the devices and found that neither held vacuum pressure. So, to get the A/C working again, it was necessary to replace both of them. This meant complete removal of the dash to remove the heater box, since both devices are mounted on the rear of the unit next to the firewall where they are simply impossible to access otherwise. I will go through the procedure in steps, with notes as needed. Allow a weekend to do this, and have needed parts in hand before starting. Above all, be careful. You will encounter brittle plastic pieces, which will break without much provocation, and be careful of wiring. Wires will become brittle with age as well.

TOOLS NEEDED:

Air ratchet (not necessary but a real timesaver)

Metric socket set w/extensions and metric wrench set

Metric swivel sockets

Long shank #2 philips screwdriver

Needle nose pliers

Needle nose pliers with angled jaws

Regular screwdrivers-various sizes

Last but not least- patience

PART NUMBERS for vacuum motors:

27731-01P10

27732-01P10

I highly recommend getting new heater hoses as well.

Here are the steps I used in doing this repair:

1. Remove kick panels from driver and passenger side – 3 screws driver side, 2 on passenger side.

2. Disconnect car battery.

3. Remove courtesy lamps from the kick panels; remove the bulbs from the harness and set them aside.

4. Remove Glove box. 4 philips screws, 2-10mm bolts. You will have to get the glovebox out of two wire loops that limit its travel to remove the Philips screws. Unhook wiring for glove box light/switch. Set glovebox aside, keep the screws/bolts in it.

5. Remove ashtray and then remove bezel for radio/climate control, 2-10mm bolts, 2 philips screws. Unhook wiring for cigarette lighter, set bezel aside, and keep the screws with it.

6. Remove radio/climate control assembly. 4-10mm bolts. Carefully unhook all wiring harnesses.

7. Remove Compass/MPG/G-force meter. 2 philips screws in the top of the radio/climate control opening. Unhook harness, set unit aside with the screws.

8. Remove two switch clusters on both sides of digital dash. Use 10mm swivel socket with extension to remove two nuts from the rear of the switches. You will have to get down on the floorboard to see under the dash to loosen them. Gently pull out switches and disconnect them from the wiring harness. Put the nuts back on the switches and set aside.

9. Remove steering wheel; first remove horn cover, then remove upper and lower trim pieces that cover the steering column. 4 philips screws.

10. Locate the wiring harness that comes from the steering wheel switches control box attached to the steering wheel. Follow it to the steering column and disconnect it from the harness. Disentangle it so it is hanging loose.

11. With a breaker bar and a 19mm socket, remove the nut that secures the steering wheel to the column.

12. Either use a steering wheel puller, or (in my case) jiggle the steering wheel until it comes loose. Then remove it from the column. Place nut and washer back on steering column temporarily.

13. Remove two Philips screws from the top of the digital dash trim cover.

14. Remove two Philips screws from the sides of the digital dash unit. Carefully remove the trim piece. You’ll have to jiggle it some to work it out of the opening.

15. At this point get some masking tape and some old newspaper. Use the paper and masking tape to cover the surface of the digital dash as best you can to try and prevent scratches.

16. Unplug 3 wiring connectors in the top of the dash opening. Locate the wire harness on the rear of the digital dash unit; follow it to the power supply and unplug it. (2 connectors)

17. Remove the digital dash unit from the opening. This is a very tight fit, take your time, and don’t break anything. Be sure to keep an eye on the trip odometer buttons so they do not get broken. I stress again, take your time here. Set digital dash aside.

18. Remove two Philips screws from the three harness connectors in the top of the cavity. Then remove two more screws to loosen the harness from the top of the dash cavity.

19. With the wiring harness loose from the top of the dash, you will be able to easily remove the driver side defroster vent. Push on the plastic clips that hold the vent in position, and push it up out of the dash. It should come out easily.

20. On the passenger side, get a screwdriver and gently push it under the corner of the defroster vent. Holding it there, use another screwdriver to push the retainer clip forward, which will release the corner of the vent. As I remember, there are a total of four of these clips. Start at the passenger side, and work your way towards the drivers side, releasing the clips and removing the defroster vent. The vent will suddenly pop out of the opening, be very careful of the optical sensor in the vent. Carefully pull the wiring on the sensor until two connectors emerge from the dash. Carefully disconnect the two plugs. There is a little square button you will have to squeeze down to get the plugs apart. They are brittle, I broke one trying to get it apart. Be careful with this- you do not want to damage the sensor or pull the wires out of it.

21. Now that the defroster vents are removed, you will see a total of four 10mm bolts down in the vents. One in the driver side vent, 3 in the passenger side vent. I used a small 10mm socket on a ratchet to remove all four. Mark screws and set them aside.

22. In the radio/climate control opening, you will see two 10mm bolts on each side of the opening. Remove them, and set aside.

23. Under the dash in each corner, locate and remove one 10mm bolt from each side that secures the dash to the framework underneath.

24. Loosen the collar that secures the turn signal/wiper switch unit to the steering column. This needs to be loose so it can be rotated.

25. On each side of the dash, locate and unplug the wiring harnesses from the connectors on each side kick panel. There are 3 connectors to be removed on each side.

26. Get someone to help you, and begin lifting the dash to get it out. This is awkward, and is much easier with two people. Be careful, don’t bend the metal edge where the dash meets the windshield glass. Be careful of wiring harnesses getting caught on things when you remove it. You will have to wiggle the turn signal switch to get the dash past it. Watch scraping your gearshift knob with the lower metal edges of the dash. Set the dash aside in a safe place.

27. Carefully remove the ductwork. Numerous screws and wiring harnesses to disconnect. Can’t remember all the details on the screws, but bag them and label where they came from. Pay close attention to how the ductwork is routed, and make notes as you go.

28. Remove the digital dash power supply- one 10mm nut, one 10mm bolt. Set aside, keep bolt and nut with unit.

29. Begin removal of metal framework. 3 bolts on each end, 2 nuts on each side of radio cavity. Remove two bolts that secure steering column to framework. Remove bolts securing hood release cable. Then, you will have to pull the steering column out of the way to remove two more bolts that secure framework. There are two bolts on each side of the metal that forms the radio cavity that need to come out. Pull the carpet back and remove them. Remove and set aside the metal plates. You should now be able to remove the metal framework from the car.

30. Next, you will need to disconnect the heater hoses under the hood. It is necessary to remove the water control valve to get to the heater core connections. Remove “S” shaped hose coming from the top of the valve from a water line coming from the block. I ended up cutting the hose coming off the bottom of the valve, because I could not get it to come loose. Unplug wiring harness and vacuum hose from the valve. Remove valve. Be very careful with the wiring going to the valve. Mine was very brittle, and I broke one of them. I had to repair the wiring. Disconnect the second heater core hose. Both heater core inlet pipes should be bared now.

31. Disconnect vacuum line coming from passenger side of the dash that goes to the bank of solenoids.

32. Remove two 10mm bolts securing the heater box to the console, in the front on the hump.

33. On the bottom rear of the heater box, remove two Philips screws from the mounting tabs, where it is secured to the firewall.

34. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the A/C evaporator unit to the dash, then remove the Philips screws on the bottom tab of the evaporator. This needs to be loosened so you can move it about ½ inch to the right.

35. Remove metal band that seals opening between the evaporator unit and the heater box. One 10mm bolt.

36. Unhook wiring harness that goes to the bank of solenoids.

37. Very carefully remove the heater box from the dash. You will need to gently push the evaporator unit to the right a little to get the heater box out. It should come out without too much difficulty.

38. Now, the whole purpose of all of this: replace the two vacuum motors. Make sure all the levers on the actuators get put in the right place. It would be highly advisable to replace every piece of vacuum hose that you see at this point, while they are easy to get to. After replacing the motors, apply vacuum to them and be sure that the actuators and the doors they operate are working smoothly. I, for one, would not want to do this again anytime soon. If needed, the heater core itself is easily replaced at this point as well.

Reassembly is basically the reverse of this. Allow yourself plenty of time to do this, and in retrospect, I would recommend just getting new heater hoses and cutting the old ones to get the water control valve out. It would have been easier that way. Now that this is done, the A/C works great. It was a long job, but it was worth it to get the A/C working right. Sorry for the lack of pictures, but I do not have a decent camera. I hope this will help someone down the road, either in fixing the same problem I had, or in changing the heater core. I’m not really a mechanic, but I got this accomplished and everything works right. Don’t be afraid to tackle it, just allow plenty of time. Make notes as you are disassembling things, they will be helpful when putting it all back together. If you need to do this, feel free to e-mail me with any questions. I also have a service manual for a 1985 Z that I could e-mail scans of if needed.

-Bob H 85 N/A

Subject: Compass Calibration Procedure

For those of you that want to recalibrate the compass which probably doesn't work, here is the quick and easy procedure:

1. Locate the compass control unit next to the spare tire. It has 2 switches and 2 dials on it.

2. There are 2 switches and 2 dials on the control unit. Also there is printed on the case of the unit, the letters "N" and "E". From now on the switch and dial closest to the "N" will be called "N Sitch" and "N dial", and the ones closest to the "E" will be called "E switch" and "E Dial". This should make things clearer.

3. Get a compass and face the car exactly NORTH

4. If your the car's compass is more only 1 increment off, then go to step 7

5. If the cars compass is off to the west, then move the N Switch to the "+" position. If the needle is off to the East, then move the N Switch to the "-" position.

6. According to the manual, this should bring the needle to within 1 increment of North. However it didn't with my car. If it doesn't with your car, just wait 20 seconds or so, and then move the N Switch back to the nuetral position.

7. Turn the N Dial so that the needle moves towards North. Go past North by 1 increment, and then go back to North. Make sure the needle is indicating exactly North.

8. Turn your car to face exactly East. If your car's compass is off by only 1 increment, then go to step 11

9. If the needle is off to the North, then move the E Switch to the "+" position. If the needle is off to the South, then move the switch to the "-" position.

10. After step 9, your needle should be within 1 increment of East, however, my car wasn't and maybe yours wont either, if this is the case, then just leave the switch there for about 20 seconds, and then move the E Switch back to the neutral position. If it does move to within 1 increment, then move the E Switch back to neutral also.

11. Turn the E Dial so that the needle moves towards East, and go 1 increment past East. Then move it back to indicate exactly East.

12. The Digital Compass should now work correctly!

Subject: JWT ecu fuel pump constantly on

Courtesy of Danny88SS again:

CONSTANT FUEL PUMP RUNNING - I personally think this is a JIM WOLF oversight

somehow, on their Computer upgrade. I do know that one of the mods to the

computer is to beef up the circuitry in the Computer so that when you add a

bigger in-tank fuel pump, you don't over load the trace that the added

amperage adds. This in turn causes this "constant pump run". I spent hours

talking to Jim himself on a fix for this, here is what I came up that

finally worked. I forget why, but for some reason, the air regulator on the

intake has something to do with it. The fix is this. There are two wires

going to the air regulator, one is ground, and the other goes back to the

ECU. I am not sure which is which, but the ground, goes back to the ECU

also, and is grounded thru the main ECU ground. What you have to do, is

take that ground, and separate it from the ECU ground. There is a bolt that

is near the air regulator, just in front of it. This is where I grounded

the air regulator. I just stripped the wire back, and twisted it around the

bolt, and that supplies the ground. Kinda fishy if you ask me, but this is

the only way I found that would fix this, Jim stated this is what needs to

be done, but I think they should incorporate something different on their

ECU upgrade. By the way, if you don't have a factory Nissan service manual,

get one. It is invaluable in situations like these, finding grounds, ECU

pin-out, and such. Again, Good Luck !

................
................

In order to avoid copyright disputes, this page is only a partial summary.

Google Online Preview   Download