How to get Big HP - E28 535



How to get Big HP - E28 535

Contained in this document:  Engine Conversion for E28,  General Modifications,  Schrick Camshaft,  

                                           Metric Mechanic Upgrade,  Performance Chips,  K&N Filters,  

                                           Installing an E34 Engine,  Other E34 Installations.  

See also:  Catalytic Converters,  Chip Review (Jim.C) - E28 535,  Chip Review (Jim.C) - E34 535i,

               Chip Review (Powerchip) + K&N - E34 535,  Chip Review (Powerchip) - E28 535, 

               Differentials - Choosing for Performance,  Exhaust System: Metric Mechanic,

               Headers - Extractors,  How to Chip an E28 Incl. ECU Removal,  K&N Filters,

               Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) Conversion - E28,  Oils and Engine Power (see item 1).  

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Engine Conversion for E28 - Installing the 155kW Version

Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000

From: Richard Nott

Subject: E28 535i Performance Modifications

I've just installed an E32 155kW 3.5 engine into my 86 535i, accompanied by 

a Schrick Cam, Dinan Chip and free flow Exhaust.   The old engine developed 

136kW.  The current configuration has not yet been Dyno'd, however 0-60mph has 

dropped from 8.7 to 7 seconds with a lot of room for improvement. 

My old engine was in good condition prior to the conversion, but the cylinder head gasket 

had developed a small leak and would run rough in the mornings when first started.  The 

engine was stripped and the cause found to be obvious degradation of the gasket between 

Pistons 5 and 6.  

I still have a 3.46 Final Drive ratio, but this will be changed to a 3.64 when the 

engine is broken in and a Custom Chip programmed on a Dyno.  The 3.64 Final 

Drive should take  0.5 seconds off the 0-60mph time and top speed will increase, 

because the standard 3.46 gearing is too tall.  

A Split Second - Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) conversion kit will be installed when 

the engine is broken in.  The MAF delivers 10hp to the rear wheels of a standard 

E28 535, but only improves performance above 4500-5000rpm.  

I'm expecting 0-60mph to drop to approx. 6.5 seconds... Not bad for a non M E28.

The Schrick Cam delivers a noticeable increase in power, especially above 3000 rpm 

where the engine seems to come on cam.  This is an improvement over the standard 

E28 engine which seems to come on cam at 3400 rpm.  And of course, above 4000 

rpm the Cam really makes itself felt.  Unfortunately, no one has been able to show me 

Dyno results for an engine fitted with a Schrick Cam to quantify the power increase.  

Idle quality is no different to my standard E28 535 or other well maintained examples.  

Surprisingly, it is not lumpy or rough whatsoever.  

Driving the car below 3000 rpm reveals no obvious differences.  No increased 

power, but this may be because my standard computer chip is unable to take 

advantage of the higher 9:1 compression ratio (up from 8:1).  Disappointing, as I 

was hoping the car would be able to accelerate up long hills on freeways at 2400rpm 

(120km/h).  As it is, it can hold power or accelerate slowly, but if a car pulls out in 

front, I need to change down to get going again.  Hopefully this will improve with a 

custom chip.  A change to a 3.73:1 final drive would fix this regardless, both by 

a torque multiplication effect and slightly higher revs.  

  ( Note:  Since I wrote this, I've installed a 3.64 Diff which only increases revs 

               by 300rpm.  This makes a slight difference, but not much.  For an 

               Auto like mine I'd recommend a 3.73 Diff if you don't mind the 

               Engine revving another 500rpm over a 3.45.  If you have a manual, 

               I wouldn't recommend going above a 3.64, as fitted to the heavier 

               E34 535i Manual.  A 3.73 Diff in a Manual would make 1st too low.  Ed. ) 

The Engine Sound has changed to a really nice induction growl that it never had 

before.  When accelerating hard you only used to get the noise of the engine, now 

however, it has a really raspy induction growl as the cars breathing much better.  

The E34 engine has larger inlet valves, higher compression better flowing head, 

wider inlet manifold (which I've matched with the heads inlet) and I've ported the 

exhaust manifold.  With the Schrick cam this all comes together to let the engine 

breath much better, hence the really nice sound. 

I'll post the before and after Dyno results when I have the Custom Chip installed.  

Then another Dyno test after I install the Diff and the MAF - by which time I'll have 

finished the tuning project for this E28.

Exhaust

In the past, I haven't been happy with the results of replacing the stock exhaust because 

of resonance problems and higher noise with aftermarket free flow designs.  But I'm 

thinking of keeping the front resonater (because it works well and isn't very restrictive) 

and replacing the rear muffer with a partially free flow design (but importantly one that 

does SOME quieting) so it's not much noisier than stock. Or I may use a Metric 

Mechanic system if it's as quiet as some people say.  The car is fully soundproofed 

(boot, cabin, firewall, trunkwall, doors) So a slightly noisier rear muffler would be okay 

and wouldn't get through to the cabin. I've got to say with all the soundproofing the car 

is a joy to drive. Nice and Quiet so you can enjoy a good sound system... Not the one 

that BMW provides!.

Chips

A problem using the Dinan, Jim.C or Autothority chips for this E28 is that they were made 

for an engine with lower compression and different flow characteristics - the E34 engine 

has an improved head and inlet manifold.  I'm using a Dinan chip until I have a custom one 

made, but it does nothing to fuel or timing at lower revs.  On full throttle, it is modified 

and there is a noticeable increase... 

Cheers,

Richard

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General Modifications

Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 

From: Richard Nott

Subject: E34 535i Performance Modifications

The following results are from a Dyno Test on an E34 535i with 3.73 Diff Ratio,

Free Flow Exhaust, K&N Air Filter and a Jim.C. Chip: 

The test results:

Maximum HP:         Up  to 229HP   (171kW) from 208HP  (155kW)

Maximum Torque:   Up  to 243lb/ft  (332Nm) from 223lb/ft (305Nm)

The same modifications to a standard E28 535, but with a 3.91 Diff Ratio* 

and the standard 182HP (136kW) engine:

The test results:

Maximum HP:         Up  to 218HP   (163kW) from 182HP  (136kW)

Maximum Torque:   Up  to 258lb/ft  (352Nm) from 214lb/ft (290Nm)

* I don't recommend the 3.91 ratio for a 5 speed.  I have tried this and 

first gear is absolutely useless.  Far too low geared.  I wouldn't go above 

a 3.64 for a manual or 3.73 for an auto.

The only other modifications you can make that aren't completely over the top 

in terms of cost are a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF), Schrick Cam, or 

alternately a Cam Sprocket to adjust the standard timing by 2 degrees.  

These are sold by Metric Mechanic or BMP Design.  

The MAF delivers 10hp to the rear wheels of a stock E28 535i.  They can 

be purchased from either Modern Performance in West Long Branch, NJ, 

on (732) 222-3679 or Split Second.  Modern Performance has a box that 

sits between the MAF and the cars wiring harness that performs the signal 

conversions, so it looks like a standard Airflow Meter to the Motronics.  

The Split Second unit is far more complex.  It's electronic box mounts inside 

the cabin near the driver, so that the driver can alter Fuel Delivery parameters 

(Low, Medium, High RPM and Acceleration) on the fly.  It has an Oxygen 

Sensor Display that also requires installation for this to work.  It is a much 

more sophisticated unit than the  Modern Performance system with increased 

complexity and cost... and possibly more to go wrong when the unit is a few 

years old.

Power Chips:  Interestingly Powerchip, APE, Bavarian, BMP and Jim.C. 

all claim the same sort of improvement for their engine chips.  Different car 

magazine tests have shown a benefit of 0.6 to 1 second (0-60) for older 

cars such as the E28 and E34 535.  The most important improvement being 

to engine tractability, when overtaking from 50-70 mph.  

Modern cars like the E36 improve by only 0.2 seconds, because the factory 

has worked harder to extract maximum power from their electronics, leaving 

aftermarket tuners less room for improvement.  They have to run higher 

emissions or greater advance to extract additional power, and are getting very 

close to engine pinging or other problems.  A Chip Comparison in European 

Car showed almost no difference in 0-60 times for the E36, and some chips 

actually performed worse.  

Finally, just about everyone will tell you Differential ratio change delivers more 

noticeable results, which seems to indicate that chips really don't do that much.

Whats Left:  The only other things you can do is fit a set of extractors, try a 

Cam Sprocket from BMP or Metric Mechanic (I can't confirm if these work) 

or modify the Automatic Transmission to a higher stall Torque Converter.

The Cam Sprocket is said to allow adjustment of the point where the engine 

comes on cam.  You can either advance or retard cam timing by up to 2 

degrees to increase or decrease top end power or bottom end torque.  

Higher Stall Torque Converters are used by companies like Dinan; I have this 

in my 3.0S.  It allows the engine to reach higher revs for the same speed when 

accelerating... just like using a lower gear.  It really boosts the get up and go 

of an automatic.  BMW did this to their 99 740i.

If that's not enough and you have money to burn, then look at a Stroker 

Motor - increasing capacity to 3.8 litres (see Metric Mechanic).  Then there's 

an M5 Engine Conversion, Turbocharger installation or Turbocharged M5.  

I tried to get a used crank from a 3.8 M5 or a 3.3Li - the only cranks you 

can use to build a 3.8litre stroker motor.  Unfortunately, nobody in the world 

had one, so I couldn't do the upgrade. There's no substitute for Cubic Inches, 

and a 3.8 litre conversion would be the ultimate if you have the money.

[pic]

Richards Engine Power Charts

Horsepower Chart:     182HP E28 to 248HP E34 (Incl. Cam + Chip + Maf + Diff + K&N)

|BMW Model |Peak Horsepower |Max HP Gain |Peak Torque |Max TorqGain |     Rev Limit |

| |

Kilowatt Chart:             136kW E34 to 185kW E34 (Incl. Cam + Chip + Maf + Diff + K&N)

|BMW |Peak Kilowatts |Max kW Gain |Peak Torque |Max Torq Gain |Rev Limit |

|Model | | | | | |

| |

# Cam designates Schrick Camshaft   (see specifications below)

# BAS designates Bavarian Autosport. HP same as Powerchip

# J.C.  designates Jim Conforti / Turner Motorsport Chip

# Schrick Cam used by Alpina and Hartge

# K&N Filter adds 2kW, 5Nm

# MAF adds 9kW

# Rev Limit Stock  E28 535 6100rpm, E34 535 6300rpm

# SAE HP Figures

* Represents an estimate - figure not yet available

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Schrick Camshaft  (022.01.840-04)   for  Motronic  2  (9/84-);  without fuel pump drive

An engine builder recommended Schrick Cams to me, he typically saw an increase of 10HP 

to the rear wheels.  

Specifications:

Cam Lift Duration °CRA Valve Timing Valve lift

(valve lift) Intake/Exhaust °CRA at TDC

I/E [mm] Peak Timing IO-IC-EO-EC I/E [mm]

8.7/8.6 284/280/110 32-72-70-30 1.9/1.7

(10.9/10.8)

Recommended Valve Springs: 1985- (056.02.062/022)

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Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998

From: Jason Leung 

Subject: e36 M50 Schrick Intake Cam

Schrick Intake Cam for 1992 325i for sale. 256 degrees duration, 10.4

mm lift.

Stock is 240/9.7

e36 M3 is 252/10.3

This cam lets the car breathe much better, and pulls hard. Idles well

and low end torque is good.

The double valve springs in the M50 head are real real strong...the

head laughs at 10.4mm of lift. The cam has the same 38mm base circle

as a stock cam....NO regrinds here.

Snip...

Jason Leung

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Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998

From: Jason Leung 

Subject: e36 M50 Schrick Intake Cam

The Schrick Cam delivers a noticeable increase in power, especially above 3000 rpm 

where the engine seems to come on cam.  This is an improvement over the standard 

E28 engine which seems to come on cam at 3400 rpm.  And of course, above 4000 

rpm the Cam really makes itself felt.  Unfortunately, no one has been able to show me 

Dyno results for an engine fitted with a Schrick Cam to quantify the power increase.  

Idle quality is no different to my standard E28 535 or other well maintained examples.  

Surprisingly, it is not lumpy or rough whatsoever.  

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Metric Mechanic Upgrade

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000

From: "ra rabmw"

Subject: RE: E36> From: "Joshua Goldstein"

> Subject: "RA" Bob G.'s Trick E28 535?

> Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000

>

> Bob,

>

> Tell us a little more about this trick 535 you've got please. Eats E28 M5s

> for breakfast? hmmm... I've been lusting after an E28 M5 but I don't think 

> I can afford the maintenance costs on a beaut like that.... but a 535...

> please, tell us more.

>

> Josh

> 95 M3 - That's "Daytona Violet" to you.

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Installing the E34 Engine 

Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000

From: Richard Nott

Subject: Installing an E34/E32 Higher Power Engine into E28 535

Hi Digestimates, : )

I thought some of you may be interested in the following information I discovered while looking at

putting an E32/E34 engine into my E28. But first the basics:

The 3.5 liter engine fitted to the E28 535 and E23 735 was labelled by the factory as a KA type

(136kW, 280Nm).

The 3.5 liter engine fitted to the E34 535 and E32 735 was labelled by the factory as a KB type

(155kW, 305Nm).

(KA or KB is stamped on the block)

The main differences between the KA and KB engines are Higher Compression (8:1 jumps to 9:1),

Better Head Design, Larger Intake Valves, Wider Intake Manifold Tubes (plenums - which are said to

benefit low end torque due to smoother intake flow and improve high end HP).

However, the interesting part is that not all KB engines are the same. They have different block

castings depending on the model they were installed in. Most of these will not fit into an E28 :(

because the engine mounts are further forward, but a few of these have the same engine

mounting bolt holes as the E28 535. These engines can be bolted into the E28 without modifications,

meaning you can benefit from a more powerful, higher compression engine in your E28.

Engines that can be installed:

Engines from: E32 735 (87 Only), E24 635CSi (87, Maybe 88, 89, but would have to check)

E24 635CSi (87, 88, 89) Engine Series Identification: M30B35M

Engine Series Identification: M30B35MZ

(Engine code from Chilton Repair Manual: BMW 1970-88).

Engine Capacity: 3.428 Litre. (-Chilton)

Engine Mount Bolt Locations: Rear Bolts: Engine Centre. Front Bolts: 4.5 inches forward.

Which models will not fit because of different engine mounting hole positions:

E34 535, 735's manufactured after 1987(Eg: 88, 89, 90)

Engine Series Identification: M30B34

Engine Capacity: 3.428 Litre.

Note 1:  Brett Anderson has manufactured an adapter (steel plate) to mount the 

    later engines used in the E34 535's and E32 735's.

Note 2:  Engine code is the same as E28 but engine & mounts are different.

    This could be a mistake in the Chilton Manual? But it definitely won't go in.

    Engine Mount Bolt Locations: Further towards the front of the engine, instead of 

    at the centre/forward.

So it seems the KB type engines can be installed in an E28 535.

Other Issues:

The sump from your E28 will need to be retained, because the KB version may not fit the

undercarriage of the E28 - it has a different shape to the E34.

Inlet Manifold is taller but will fit (Thanks to info provided by Mark Conley)

Standard E28 Manifold has 30mm clearance to hood, with extra 17mm of foam. Totalling 47mm

clearance. Difference in height between E32/E34 and E28 Manifold is unknown.

E32/E34 engines do not have the support brackets that join the Rocker Cover to Inlet Manifold 

on top of the engine. This means some problems with the wiring harness including:

    The Rear Bracket that holds the Speed and Reference Sensor Connectors and

    The Front Bracket that holds the Diagnostic Connector.

I had an Aluminium Bracket welded onto the E34 inlet manifold so I could use the standard 

support brackets that hold the Diagnostic Connector and Engine Sensor Connectors.

You can just let the wiring harness sit on the inlet manifold, but I preferred to keep it looking, 

as close as possible, to a factory installation.

E32/E34 (or the last E24 635CSi) Inlet Manifolds do not have the Cold Start Injector. 

A position for this hole was cast, but not drilled. You have to drill and tap this yourself. 

(Thanks to Mark Conley for info)  The last of the E24 635CSi's, with the 155kW engine 

installed, used the same Motronics as the E32/34 that did away with the Cold Start Injector.

The E34 manifold has 3 bolt holes for the Fuel Rail, the E28 has 4. This isn't a problem. 

The Fuel Rail can be bolted on without modifications.

Additional holes need to be drilled for other vacuum hoses such as the cabin air temp sensor hose,

located at the bottom of the main chamber joining the 6 inlet tubes.  There really isn't much that 

needs to be done other than the cold start injector.  You or your mechanic can do this easily if 

you've got a tap and die set.

There are two bolt holes in the bottom of the E34 manifold. Two threaded studs are in these holes

which are used to support the E32/E34 inlet manifold. This substantial support is used in the later 

E32/34 to replace the brackets which join the Rocker Cover to Inlet Manifold on the E28.  

However, the brackets that support the E34 Manifold from below (which bolt onto the block) 

will not fit.  I had to use the standard E28 small bracket that bolts between the Inlet Manifold and 

Block for support.  It sits below the centre of the Inlet Manifold.

The E28 Manifold could be used, so you don't have above problems, but the inlet air tubes are 

narrower and should be ground out wider (giving a venturi effect) where the inlet manifold joins the 

head if used with the KB engine. Don't know how well this would work though... I wouldn't 

recommend doing this.  You'll loose half the benefits of the upgrade.

I'm planning to install this engine in my E28 with a Schrick Cam and custom chip.  Autothority make 

a chip for this Engine/Cam combination as do Powerchip, but I'd prefer to have one custom made 

on a Dyno.  This setup hasn't been done by anyone before so the above companies would only be 

guessing which settings would work best and a custom chip would better match the higher 

compression, better breathing engine with Schrick Cam.

I estimate Horsepower and Torque will jump to approx 240/250 respectively. Up from 182/214.

Maybe 248/260 with MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) and a little higher again (5hp) with extractors 

and a different rear muffler.  Why don't I buy an M3?, Because a used 95 M3 euro version 

costs $US50,000 in Australia...  Or $US95,000 for a new one!

Installation Advice and Sourcing an Engine

It's best to have the business you bought the engine off perform the installation as well.  

If there is a problem you won't have to pay extra to fix it.  They can't turn around 

and blame the seller, or vice versa.  Also, try to get a fixed price for the completed 

job.  If you don't, you'll be forced to pay for endless extras, unless you can do the 

work yourself.  Garages call these instances "profit opportunities" and it's where they 

make their money... don't leave yourself open to them.

Also, make sure it's a good engine before you buy it.  Take the oil filler cap off  and 

look at the colour of the metal.  If everything is light brown, instead of shiny metal, it 

means the engine has  cooked with old oil... ie: it hasn't been looked after with regular 

thermostat and water  pump replacements and has overheated.  It has a higher risk 

of having a cracked head.  But, if it is discoloured, chances are the engine could still 

be OK,  but it still hasn't been looked after and in my eyes isn't worth as much as a 

well maintained one.  When a poorly maintained engine as described above is pulled 

down, you'll find the piston rings gummed up with baked on grease and contaminants.  

This stops the bores from being properly lubricated and increases the rate of wear. 

The only way you can verify the "quoted" miles done by a second hand engine is to 

check the  odometer before it's pulled out of the car.  Otherwise you'll need to do a 

leakdown and compression test to see how  worn it is.  Even with very high mileage, 

engines still have  the cross hatch pattern made in the bores by the honing process - 

they can be worn out and still seem to be like new.   You can only tell the amount of 

wear in a bore by measuring it's diameter to see how  far it is from spec.

Cheers,

Richard

74 3.0S (Since New!)

86 535i

This info and more is available at Richard Nott's BMW Database:



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Other E34 3.5 Engine Installations

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 

From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks"

Subject: Re: [E28] [uuc] Time for a new engine... advice?

Brett Anderson completed (and explained) an E34/E32 engine swap about a year

ago. According to him, it was a painless job with just one engine mount

adapter needing to be fabricated and (because it was a 633CSi), the wiring

harness had to be extended 20". You need the motor, DME, and wiring

harness. Bolts up to your existing 535i transmission.

The newer M30 in the E34 5-series and E32 7-series is 218hp and runs better

due to updated electronics and ignition. I drove the car and it was

s-m-o-o-t-h, like silk. Idle (an E28 problem area) was rock-solid and power

delivery was strong.

This seems to be the most economical and effective update for your tired

motor.

I'd expect you could find a low-mileage guaranteed used engine that would

cost the same or less than a rebuild of your old motor. Contact Jason Lile

at Zionsville Autosport (1-800-BIMMERS) for availability.

Rob Levinson

> Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 

> From: Ethan Stock

> Subject: [E28] [uuc] Time for a new engine... advice?

>

> At 203,000 miles, my faithful '88 535is is starting to slow a bit. It

> doesn't have the pop it had only 55,000 miles ago, and the transmission is

> also starting to act a bit balky. I'm considering a serious transplant,

> both a new engine and a new 5spd.

[pic]

From: Brett Anderson

Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000

Subject: Re: E28/E32 engine swap

Following was just sent to someone else who was looking for engine swap

info. It's essentially relevant to your question.

*****

I'd do the Motronic 1.3 from an E32/E34, 1990 or later.

You start out with 208hp stock. Add a Jim C chip and a set of headers and

you're really getting up there, with plenty more room for improvement. Jim

C's chip gives 40 peak hp on Motronic 1.3.

Much more available in the way of go fast parts for Motronic 1.3 engines

also, more of them out there.

Biggest pain in the installation is extending the engine harness to locate

the DME above the glove box (E32/34 have the DME in the engine bay.

Last one I did was in an E24, we extended the harness 20 inches, could've

got away with 16.

Later blocks are missing bosses for mount holes on the right side.

We used the stock E24 aluminum mounts but added a 3/8" steel plate

between the mount and block on the right. Total of 5 holes in the plate, three

lined up with the block, four with the mount. Some of the holes got longer

bolts that went through both the plate and the mount.

  (  Note:  2 Bolt holes can be used.  Ed.  )

Unfortunately, I never took a picture, or measurements for later use. I

hung the motor in the car, made a template and cut it.

One other thing that you have to do is convert the engine/car connector to

the older square style, the harness you get with the engine will have a 20

pin round connector.

Comparing wiring diagrams from the two cars will help you set that up and it

will give you everything except service interval lights. Fuel economy,

tach, etc, will all work.

It sounds involved, it's not. With the exception of extending the harness,

which I did during the week, I installed this setup in less than 8 hours on

a Saturday.

As it is essentially the same engine, it will bolt directly to your

transmission and you can use your existing radiator. It will look almost

the same as your original engine except for the intake manifold/airbox.

Contact jason@ for a complete conversion. Unlike

most junk yards, he'll think the job through and put a kit together, you

will have everything you need when it arrives, no running around getting

pieces that you forgot to order. Just tell him you want to put a Motronic

1.3, M30 into your E28.

Brett Anderson



Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual

[pic]

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 

From: Russ Coppes

Subject: RE: [E28] [uuc] Time for a new engine... advice?

Rob,

I believe the M30 b35 engine is factory rated at 208hp, not 218hp. 

You may be confusing this with the M535I which is the factory rated 218hp.

He's correct in that the M30 b35 engine is a great consideration. 

SteveD says the M3 b35 head is the next upgrade for the M30 b34

(E28) engine block on my turbo car. The b35 head has bigger valves 

and valve ports. Plus the combustion chamber is greatly enhanced.

But, I would look at the existing engine first. The compression and leakdown 

test I feel should be run first to determine the condition of the engine. Then 

determine where to go from there.

RussC

'88 535is Dinan Turbo Final Edition

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Performance Chips - E28 535

From: Bong Lim

Date: Thursday, February 25, 1999 

Subject: Re: Jim.C Chip

Snip...

The JC chip absolutely transformed the car. The rough idle is almost gone,

and the hesitation on acceleration is GONE. Well worth the price. I only

wish he'd make a chip for my E36 320i...Is the 3.5 motor from a E34 the same

as the one in our E28's?

BTW, I am currently working with a lot of 'blokes' from Australia in our Oil

rig project. I pick up words like, 'mate', 'bloody hell', 'chaps'...etc that

were never part of the english I was taught in school :-)

Best Regards and please keep up the good work

Bong Lim

Philippines

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From: Jonathan Selig

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998

Subject: M30 Conforti Trip

I'd have to agree with Chris Guy's review of the Jim Conforti performance chip for

the M30 motor. I installed the new chip in my '87 535is about 2 weeks ago.

As Chris noted...there is noticable difference was a rock steady cold idle.....

previously the cold idle would surge repeatedly for the first 1-2 minutes of operation.

        ( Note:   Mine Idles fine when Cold in standard form...  Ed. )

Performance is vastly improved in mid-range throttle response. The car used to

accelerate in what seemed to be step intervals....where the car would seem to plateau

momentarily and then resume full power acceleration. With the new chip the

acceleration is consistently strong, smooth and linear from 2500 - 6000 rpm.

Top end-performance is similarly improved....the stepped acceleration that I

mentioned previously used to flatten and stay flat after about 5200-5500. Now

the car still pulls strong at 6200.

To me, this is exactly how the car should have been engineered to perform from the

factory. I'll be curious to see if there are any differences in my exhaust emissions when

I go for state vehicle inspection in March.

Jonathan

'87 535is

'83 320i

'72 2002tii

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Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999

From: Matthew Yip

Subject: Re: Performance Chips

Either install a Jim Conforti chip or don't waste your time & money

( Note:  One guy said he's on his 5th Autothority chipped car... loves them!.  Ed. )

BOBINYELM@ wrote:

> I am interested in input regarding performance chips for my '87 535i.

>

> I do NOT want a chip that will affect my fuel mileage or drivability during

> the 99% of the time that I am driving conservatively, but rather one that

> will either leave these factors unaffected or improve them while providing a

> worthwhile benefit during the 1% of the time I want more torque and power.

>

> Bavarian makes definate hp (+20) and torque (+20+) claims, but Hypertech

> and Dinan are respected manufacturers as well.

>

> Any input from your experiences would be most welcome.

>

> Thanks,

> Bob

Matthew Yip

mgyip@

'87 GTi 16v :)

'88 M5

'99 F350

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Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999

From: "Duane Collie"

Subject: Chips

>I am interested in input regarding performance chips for my '87 535i.

>

>I do NOT want a chip that will affect my fuel mileage or drivability during

>the 99% of the time that I am driving conservatively, but rather one that

>will either leave these factors unaffected or improve them while providing a

>worthwhile benefit during the 1% of the time I want more torque and power.

Chips won't affect either mileage or driveability. In reality, they are a

very non-invasive and easy upgrade. You'll get your money's worth on a chip

upgrade in a manual trans car....less so in an automatic. The only real

noticeable difference is that you will have to run 92 octane or better all

the time vs. Regular 87 octane Unleaded on many of the E28 / E34 535i cars.

Skip the Bav. Auto / Hypertech chips....they are not very highly regarded.

Don't believe the horsepower claims, either. The Jim Conforti chip is the

one to have. Jim engineers these chips using black magic and does weird

things like dissasembling algorithm codes or whatever.....then remaps the

whole engine software curves to give you MORE of what you want in a chip.

It's all very highly technical and I can't explain it...but when you take a

BMW with a stock chip in it and swap it with a Dinan...you say..."hey,

that's pretty good". And then when you take out the Dinan and stick in a

Conforti chip you smile even more and say ... " Oh yeah...that one's even

better!"

You can get a Jim C. chip from Josh @ Eurosport. E-mail him at

eurosprt@

Duane Collie

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Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999

From: "Duane Collie"

Subject: AA Chips, etc.

>Does anyone know who programs the chips offered by AA?? There are two

>"packages" offerred. With chip, intake, and AA exhaust, package 1a offers

>"...24hp increase" (OBDI cars), package 1b offers "...19hp increase" (OBDII

>cars). Is the programming by Jim C. or Dinan (or someone else)?? This

>sounds pretty good.

Much as I like the guys at Active Autowerkes, I'd be highly skeptical of a

24 HP+ increase with a simple chip, cone filter and cat back pipe upgrade.

That was EXACTLY the same sales pitch I had from AutoThority (APE) in 1996

when I was suckered into their junk and my car actually went slower

afterwards. Now, AA - with Jim C chips, is a whole lot better operation

than APE and you WILL get some boost out of that system. In my opinion,

it's probably closer to a better mid-range boost and maybe 8 to 10 hp

overall. And if you don't shield the cone intake the cavitation of fan wash

air will negate some of those gains. The noise of the free-flowing pipe and

the 'hammering' of the open air intake will make you think you going faster

than you really are.

Even with the Euro HFM and a shielded cone and cat-back pipe, we're getting

only about 24 hp...and with that setup we're actually changing the classic

choke point of the '95 M3....the 325i HFM for a real M3 one. That's a more

radical mod than a simple cone filter, too. Also, the stock injectors

will crap out at about 270 hp, so be careful in putting too much faith in

marketing claims.

Duane Collie

[pic]

K&N Filters - E28

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 

From: rusmaster

Subject: Re: k & n quandry

Chris,

The intake on the E28 M30 engines is really very good. If you look, it

already is a cold air intake. If you just remove the high beam lamp, WaLa,

it's a ram air intake. The K&N insert will do the same as a cone or

better if the cone is not turbulence sheilded.

Just for info, I dyno'd my car with a new stock filter then w/0 a filter(the

enclosure empty). The difference was 0hp and +5ft/lbs peak w/o. So,

the stock intake is really good STOCK. Can't say this about many cars.

Take Care,

Russ

    ------------------------------

>

> Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999

> From: chris king

> Subject: k & n quandry

>

> i ordered the cone for a 535is (free-flow & chipped) but the company

> sent me the insert only and kept my check for 'hundred some

> dollars.....got upset at first then others suggested that cone k & n,

> except in racing applications, just sucks in a lot of hot air from your

> engine compartment! so i just got my rebate, kept the k & n slip in,

> and it still made a hair of a difference on the butt dyno....could have

> even been psychological....but it WAS a better sound than the stock

> insert.

>

> ck

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