LINEN & UNIFORM ROOM - Institute of Hotel Management …
TOPIC 1 -LINEN & UNIFORM ROOM
Chapter Outline:
1. Activities of the linen room
2. Layout and equipment in the linen room
3. Selection criteria for various linen items and fabrics suitable for this purpose.
4. Purchase of linen
5. Calculation of linen requirements
6. Linen control- procedures and records
7. Stock taking- procedures and records
8. Recycling of discarded linen
9. Linen hire
Learning objectives
The student must be able to:
1. Explain the functions, systems and procedures of the Linen Room.
2. List the staff required in the Linen Room. Chalk out their job description.
3. List the different types of hotel linen and their sizes.
4. Identify and discuss suitable fabrics for hotel linen.
5. Calculate the length of material required for table cloths and serviettes.
6. Explain the criteria involved in planning Linen Room.
7. Plan a Linen Room.
8. Evaluate any hotel Linen Room as regards to layout and systems and procedures. Suggest improvements.
9. Explain Key Terms
TOPIC -1: LINEN & UNIFORM ROOM
Linen is the housekeeping department’s second largest expense. The overall responsibilities include providing clean, crisp linen to the rooms, restaurants and other F&B outlets, health clubs and beauty parlours, and uniforms to all the uniformed employees. This involves purchasing, maintaining and controlling different types of linen and uniform which runs to several lakhs of rupees every annum. In order to effectively utilize these large expenditures, one must have a good knowledge of fabrics, systematic as regards to procedures and diligent as regards to record keeping and controls.
1. Linen & uniform room
The linen and uniform room is a central depot for all hotel linen and this is the place from where clean articles of linen are distributed throughout the establishment.
Linen Room Organisation
There are primarily two types of linen rooms – centralized and decentralized.
Centralized linen room: In this system, linen from all floors are collected and sorted in one central area.
Decentralized linen room: In this system, each floor maintains its own par stock of linen.
Activities In The Linen Room
Objective: Ensure clean, fresh, crisp linen and uniforms are provided for hotel operations within the budgets forecasted by the Housekeeper.
1. Collection of soiled linen
2. Counting and sorting of soiled linen
3. Packing of soiled linen for the laundry
4. Dispatch of soiled linen to the laundry
5. Receipt of fresh linen from the laundry
6. Checking and sorting of fresh linen
7. storage of fresh linen
8. Distribution of fresh linen to the floors and other areas
9. Stocktaking for linen and maintenance of records
10. Stitching, repairing and monogramming of all hotel linen and uniforms
11. Uniform selection
12. Uniform storage and issue
13. Discarding of unusable linen
1.5 Planning a Linen & Uniform room
Location:
• Close to the Housekeeping Office. Easy accessibility for the Housekeeper.
• Close to the Staff lockers for convenience of staff in exchanging uniforms.
• Easy accessibility to the OPL or the Hotel back entrance in case of commercial laundry.
• Easy accessibility to the Service elevators for transporting Room linen to the Floors.
• Away from Food Production area as food smells can get absorbed by linen.
Space Allocation:
The thumb rule states that the space requirement for a linen & uniform room varies between 4 – 6 sq. ft. per room.
• Provide for more area if there is no OPL and if soil linen needs to be stored until it is transported to the laundry.
• Linen storage areas with linen exchange counters.
• Uniform storage area with Uniform Exchange Counter.
• Soil Linen collection Area.
• Inspection Area
• Supervisor's desk area.
• Sewing room.
• Guest laundry area
Entrance:
Ideally the linen room should have only one entrance/exit point for security reasons. Ideally a stable type door is recommended which could deter unauthorized persons from walking in. Moreover this could function as an Exchange Counter. The entrance must be atleast 4 ft wide without a threshold for easy movement of trolleys.
Lighting & Ventilation:
Since most of the area in the Linen Room is used for storage, the amount of natural light & ventilation will be very little. Hence adequate shadow less lighting (fluorescent) & fresh air vents are required. Moreover the air must be humidity free and maintained at around 20 degrees centigrade.
Floors & walls:
Floors must be sturdy enough to take the movement of loaded trolleys. Walls must be of the type which can be easily cleaned.
Linen storage area:
Shelves should be designed using maximum utilization of space. Shelves can reach up to the ceiling, with a 6 inches clearance at the bottom. Shelves must be slatted for adequate ventilation.
Items which are stored for a long period of time must have shelves with sliding doors or curtains to prevent dust from settling in. The depth of the shelves should be about 18 -20 inches if against the wall; if accessible from both sides it could be about 36-40 inches.
Storage of condemned and to be condemned linen must also be thought of.
The linen exchange counter:
The linen exchange counter is normally a window without any grills and wide enough to pass bundles of linen. The window normally opens downward forming a counter. The area below this counter could be used to park trolleys to collect the soiled linen. When not in use this counter must be kept bolted. The entrance stable type door could also function as an exchange counter.
Uniform storage area:
Uniforms are normally hung on hangers numerically, according to designation & department. A mobile uniform stand could also be used. Standard size uniforms are segregated according to size and stacked in racks. An exchange counter should be located close to the storage area.
Inspection Area:
The inspection area is occupied by the Inspection table which should be large enough to accommodate the freshly washed linen which need to be inspected. A 100 room property could perhaps make do with a table of size 10 ft × 6 ft. This need not be one solid piece but could be separated if required. The color of the Inspection table should contrast with the linen. Since this occupies a lot of space. the underneath of the table can be utilized for storage.
Soil linen area:
Should be close to the entrance and must be large enough to accommodate all the soil linen. There should be enough space to sort and count the linen, move and park trolleys. Floor and storage units of this area should be of a surface which does not stain the damp linen.
Guest Laundry Area:
If the Laundry does not directly handle Guest Laundry, space must be allocated for storing, marking and recording soil guest laundry before it is sent to the Laundry. Fresh Guest laundry must be stored according to room numbers or hung on hangers for delivery. A table, mobile stand for hanging clothes and racks designed to hold the laundry, room number wise may be designed. A sink and an ironing table are also necessary to meet with emergency laundering. This area is particularly necessary for a hotel with no OPL.
Sewing Room:
This area must have enough space to accommodate sewing machines, cutting table (inspection table could be used if there is a shortage of space), bins to hold linen, uniforms to be repaired, cupboards for storing threads needles and other sewing requirement, fabrics..
Supervisor's desk:
Should be located in such a way that he/she has a good view of the entire linen & uniform room especially the transaction points. Cupboards, desk must be designed to accommodate files, records etc.
1.2 Selection Criteria for hotel linen.
Linen is the highest annual cost inventory in the housekeeping department, hence getting good value for money spent should be an important priority for an executive housekeeper.
Hotel linen or house linen are of three types:
1. Room Linen
a. Bed linen
b. Bath linen
2. F & B Linen
3. Health Club linen
1.2.2 Quality Specifications – linen & soft furnishing. (Selection criteria for fabrics)
Fabrics must not only retain their appearance throughout their useful life, but also must be serviceable, easy to maintain and long lasting. Most of the fabrics are woven; though some may be knitted, netted or bonded. Out of the woven fabrics, plain woven fabrics are the most common. A plain woven fabric consists of wefts (breadth wise yarns) and warps (lengthwise yarns), held in place by the selvedges along the lengthwise edges. The number of warps and wefts in a square inch area is called thread count. The higher the thread counts the better the strength. However, the balance, i.e. the ratio of the warps and wefts must be as close as possible
There are three major factors to be considered while purchasing linen.
• Size of the linen
• Quality : includes strength, color fastness and other aspects
• Quantity: depends on the size of the establishment and the par stocks established.
a. Strength:
• Type of fibre: Much of the strength of the fabric depends on the type of fibre used. Synthetic fibres like polyester, acrylic have more strength than natural ones like cotton and wool.
• The type of weave and the closeness of weave also affect fabric strength.
• Check the strength of the selvedges by tugging at it.
• Pilling or bobbling weakens the fabric. Check by rubbing a dark colored cloth vigorously against a light colored one to see if linters or ‘dressing’ loosen out.
b. Color:
• Color, pattern & texture in fabrics can bring about character to a room. But one should not forget ease of maintenance.
• Most hotels prefer white linen as they can be safely laundered without the fear of color fading.
• Colored fabric must be checked for dye stability. Fabric dyed at the yarn stage (vat dyed) is definitely more color fast than the ones dyed at the fabric stage.
• Dyed natural fibres will fade after several washings.
• Dark colored fabrics show dust and lighter marks, whereas light colored shows dirt and stains easily. These will be less apparent in a medium toned fabric.
• Colors chosen must be easily available when replacements are required.
c. Laundering:
Laundering costs come next to labour costs. Synthetics require lesser temperatures and shorter programmes for laundering when compared to cotton. No-iron blends do not need ironing.
d. Comfort:
Comfort is affected by feel, (texture) and weight of the cloth. Any fabric which is in contact with the skin must be absorbent. Cottons have a very high absorbency when compared to synthetics.
e.. Shrinkage.
Synthetics do not shrink whereas natural fibres shrink 6-8% unless they have been sanforized. Wool looses its shape if not carefully laundered.
f. Pattern and texture:
A patterned fabric can hide marks. Abstract patterns will not hide marks as much as mottled patterns. Large patterns can make a large area look filled and vice versa. A more open texture can collect dust, dirt.
g. Flame retardency:
Wool is naturally flame retardant. Synthetic fabrics like Teklan which are made flame retardant are available, though not yet in India. Flame retardant fabrics can be used for drapery, upholstery, carpets.
h. Thermal insulation:
Thermal insulation properties or warmth of a fabric is measured in units called togs. These must be checked in blankets. Drapery should also help to maintain the temperature of a room.
Please note: Linen bought for hospitals must be able to withstand very high wash temperatures for sanitizing.
Room linen:
• Type of fabric recommended for bed sheets & pillow covers: Cotton or polycot. Polycot sheets combine the advantages of cotton and polyester.
• Plain weave with a recommended thread count of 180.
• Mostly white preferred for easy laundering.
World class properties may go in for color co-ordinated monogrammed linen made of Egyptian cotton or satin. Durability, a clean crisp appearance and comfort are the main criteria for bed sheets.
The average lifespan of a cotton bed sheet is about 200 washes; whereas a polycot bed sheets lasts more than 500 washes. Polycot bed sheets are easy care- need low temperatures for washing drying and ironing. Hence laundering costs are cheaper. In India, cotton being cheaper can cost less than half the cost of polycot.
Nightspreads: Cotton or polycot of a Seersucker weave.
Blankets: Woolen blankets are being replaced by acrylic. Acrylics resemble wool, is much more durable (does not get affected by moths), does not mat, easy to launder(wool needs to be dry
cleaned, goes out of shape when washed), lighter and not scratchy.
Blankets are being replaced by quilts and duvets.
Mattress pads: Their main function is to protect the mattress. It is normally made of a quilted fabric. The filling may be cotton or synthetic fibre.
1.2.2 Bath linen
• Type of fabric recommended: Turkish or Terry toweling – a pile woven fabric.
• Recommended pile height - 1/8 inch.
• Pile type: Uncut piles are more absorbent and recommended for bath towel, hand towel and bath mat.
• Cut piles are softer with a velvety feel though not very absorbent. May be seen on face towels or on one side of the other towels.
• White preferred if durability is a main factor. However, coloured towels are used in health club and beauty parlours for identification.
• Bath mats need to be heavier.
• Face towels may also be made of huckaback material.
• Logo may be woven into the fabric.
Absorbency, durability and softness are the requirements of bath linen. Heavier towels are more absorbent. Piles need to be as close as possible for greater absorbency and strength. Hold it against the light to check for closeness. The longer the pile the greater the absorbency; but durability may be reduced as the long piles may get pulled easily while laundering. Hence 1/8 inch pile is the recommended height. Uncut piles are more absorbent but cut piles have a much softer feel. Dyed towels are less absorbent than whites as they have already absorbed the dye.
Selvedge edges are more durable than hemmed ends.
Table linen:
Must have both practical and aesthetic uses. Napery must be clean, fresh and crisp. Fancy folded napkins lend an air of elegance to the restaurant.
• The most commonly used fabric for table cloths, naperons and serviettes are Casement or Damask. Casement fabrics are usually cotton or linen of a plain weave.
• Damasks can be made of cotton, linen or polycot, are self-coloured and are of a patterned weave. They are considered elegant are used in up-class restaurants. Though double damask looks better than single damask, they are not as durable.
• Table cloths must hang atleast 9 inches on the sides.
• Though polycot fabrics are more durable, they tend to retain grease stains and hence best avoided.
• Napkins must be 100% Cotton or Linen since it needs to be absorbent and must be starched to be folded into fancy shapes.
• Silence Cloths or Under lays: Baize or any felt. Moulton is a cheaper alternative.
• Skirts/ Frills/ Jupes: They may be pleated or left unpleated. Drapability is an important requirement. And hence they are made of satin. Satins made of synthetic fibres are more durable.
• Waiter's cloth: 100% cotton. (Casement).
Soft Furnishing (Drapery, Upholstery, Bed covers)
Soft furnishing include bedcovers/bedspread/counterpane, drapes/curtains, cushion covers and upholstery. Appearance is a very important factor as these contribute to much of the ambience.. The colour and print must match with the other components.
Drapability is an important factor for drapery. Hence fabrics which drape well like satins, silks (expensive) are chosen. Loosely woven fabrics will never drape well; they sag. Curtains which don't have a good drape can be improved upon by providing heavier hems.
Generally, fabrics for soft furnishing are much more expensive and are not easy to launder. Hence choose fabrics which can withstand weathering (curtains), soil etc. Stain repellent finishes like Scotchgard prevents spills from seeping into the fabric.
Bedcovers can be stitched in various styles. The total material required will be – the length and width of the bed, the drop on all three sides and the extra required to tuck under the pillows which could work out to approximately 8 metres for a single bed.
Curtains used in guest room are of two types: Heavy and sheer. Curtains must be give privacy. During the daytime light should also filter in. Net or sheer or lace curtains provide enough privacy during the daytime while filtering the sunlight in. But in the night this may not be sufficient, hence heavy curtains are needed both for privacy and keeping the light out. Sheer curtains are normally made of cotton or polyester. But polyester is far more superior as regards to durability, appearance, and maintenance
Lining, stitched to heavy curtains can protect the fabric from direct sunlight. It also gives a heavier look.
Ensure that curtains look good both in the day and nighttime as they look different in the daytime when sunlight filters through the material and in the night when the light falls on the material.
Beautiful patterns may be lost when the curtain is pleated. So check the material in folds to see the effect before purchasing.
Since curtains need to be joined and stitched; avoid buying large patterns as they lead to wastage while aligning.
Insulation: Aluminium particles (milieum) applied on the backing of the curtains reflects back sunlight and keeps the room cool. When reversed it also helps to trap the warmth inside the room in cold seasons.
Linen Life Span
The life span of linen is measured in terms of how many times it can be laundered before becoming too worn to be suitable for guest room use. Durability, laundry considerations and purchase price are the main criteria that an executive housekeeper has to bear in mind while selecting linen.
Cost per use = Purchase cost + Life- span laundering costs
No. of life-span launderings
Where Life-span laundering cost = Item weight * Laundering cost per kg * no. of launderings withstood
Purchase Of Linen
Efficient Purchasing practices can make a significant contribution to the executive housekeeper’s role in controlling expenses. The housekeeping department coordinates with the purchase department for all its purchases.
Principles of purchasing
There are five primary principles of purchasing that need to be upheld by the housekeeping department and the purchase department: right quality, right quantity, right place, right time, and the right source of supply.
Stages in Purchasing
1. pre-order stage
2. Receipt of purchase indent
3. Floating enquiries
4. Procurement of samples for approval
5. Quotation and ordering
6. Issue of purchase order
7. Confirmation of receipt of purchase order
8. Follow-up
9. Dispatch advice
10. Receipt note
11. Payment
Purchase of linen
Linen is the most important recycled inventory item in the housekeeping department. It is also the biggest expense next to salaries and wages of the housekeeping staff. Linen articles may require replacement due to wear and tear of initial purchases or items getting lost in the course of use. Linen articles that may need to be frequently replaced include bed linen and bath linen. The inventory records of linen are a tool to help establish how long the existing stock will last. To ensure that the purchased linen is worth the money spent, the executive housekeeper must consider:
• The suitability of the products
• The expected useful lifespan of the linen
• The purchasing price
• The costs of laundering
The cost of maintaining linen over its useful life is usually much greater and more important than its initial purchase price. Thus, the cost per use should be calculated in order to evaluate linen purchases, using the following formula:
Cost per use = purchase cost + Lifespan laundering costs
No. of life span launderings
Where lifespan laundering cost = Item weight * laundering cost/kg * no. of launderings.
The quantity of each item of linen to be purchased annually is decided by assessing the hotel’s quarterly requirements in order that the ideal par stock is maintained. The inventory records are used to calculate an annual consumption rate that determines how much linen is used up and cannot be considered in the linen par. The annual linen purchases are made using the following formula:
Annual order = (par stock level- linen on hand) + expected annual consumption
Where consumption = Discards + discrepancies.
Calculation of Linen Requirements
Linen control- procedures and records
Linen control is carried out in four phases:
1. Routine checking of linen for appearance and hygiene standards
The executive housekeeper must emphasize the inspection of fresh and soiled linen not only by the linen room staff but also other staff handling linen. Stringent checking should be carried out by the linen room staff.
2. Quantity control of the daily flow of linen stock/ linen exchange procedure
This is the quantity control of linen sent from the floors and departments to the linen room for dispatch to the laundry. To maintain an initial record of the par stock of linen in each department and on each floor and also of any subsequent increase in the quantity of linen, an indent is made by the floor supervisor and the department in charge
Proper linen exchange procedures are essential in the control of linen. The linen room entry book acts as a control tool. This contains daily records of the soiled linen brought to the linen room from the various floors and departments as well as the amount of soiled linen sent to the laundry.
| Linen Indent Form |
|Floor/ Department………….. Sl. No……………. |
|Purpose Of Indent…………… Date……………… |
|Linen Article |Amount |Remarks |
| | | |
| | | |
| Signature of floor/ department in- charge……………….. |
| |
|Linen room entry book |
|Linen article |
Stock taking- Procedures and records.
Stock taking of linen is the physical verification of the stocks of all linen items at all points in the cycle. It is carried out at periodic intervals or at the time of the closing of books for evaluation purposes. Accurate recording of entries is important during stock taking. The physical counting is done after every three months and is known as a quarterly inventory. First, all items- including discards- are segregated and grouped. Then items in circulation and items kept in store are counted up separately and the totals are added together. The discards are stamped ‘condemned’ and set aside. Now the counted total should tally with the last inventory figure plus the issued items received after that.
Proper Documentation Of Linen
The master inventory control sheet helps the executive housekeeper analyse the results of the physical inventory. By subtracting the counted total for each linen article from the expected quantity corresponding, the executive housekeeper can accurately determine the number lost.
The completed master inventory control sheet should be submitted along with the linen discard record to the general manager. The general manager will then verify and initial the report before transferring it to the accounts department.
| Room linen inventory form |
|Floor……………… Date…………………….. |
|Floor supervisor………………………….. |
|Room |B/S |P/S | N/S | M/P |B/T |H/T |F/T |
|No. | | | | | | | |
| |
| |
|Linen inventory statement |
| |
|Linen |
|Item |
| Master inventory control sheet |
|Location name……..Inventory date……… Inventory prepared by……….. |
|Sign. Of the housekeeper…………. |
|Sign. Of the general manager…………… |
| Part 1 |
|1. Linen item |
|7. Storage room |
|16. Losses(6-15) | | | | |
|Bed sheet, Single |2300 |Nil |6 |2294 |
|Pillow covers |4000 |30 |Nil |3970 |
Discrepancy: Loss of any item causes a difference or variance between the Actual stock and Book stock. This loss is unaccounted and can be found only if an inventory is taken.
Shrink or shorts are also terms used to indicate loss of linen.
Discard procedure:
All items which are not in a useable state are stored separately. The users, for example room attendants send down damaged linen separately to the linen room. On any particular day, the Housekeeper with the Financial Controller checks the items to be discarded and either approves or disapproves for discarding. The items which have not been approved for discards are put back into rotation with suitable repairs. The items which are discarded, are stamped “DISCARD”, and reduced from the stock. If used as cleaning cloths, they are dyed a different colour to prevent misuse of good useable items.
ACTIVITIES
1. Calculate parstock.
2. Write the job description and job specification of all linen room staff.
3. Draw the constructin of the following weaves:- plain weave, basket weave, twill weave, satin weave, sateen weave, dobby weave.
4. Collect samples of different types of fabrics with varying weaves.
5. List the advantages and disadvantages of linen hire. As the housekeeper of a 100 rooms five star hotel, would you go for hired linen? Justify your answer
ASSIGNMENT
Draw to scale the layout of a linen room of a five star hotel with 200 guest rooms.
SUGGESTED READING
1. The Professional Housekeeper
2. Hotel Housekeeping- Operations And Management
3. Fibre to Fabric
UNIFORMS
OBJECTIVES:
A. Advantages of providing uniforms to staff
B. Issuing and exchange of uniforms; type of uniforms
C. Selection and designing of uniforms
D. Layout of the Uniform room
Uniforms are outfits of a specified material, colour and design, usually provided by the establishment, for certain staff such that all employees in an equivalent or similar position wear identical outfits. Uniforms are issued to most people who work in the hospitality industry. Employees in the back of the areas normally wear functional yet pleasing uniforms.
In most hotels, the housekeeping department is the custodian of uniforms for all hotel employees. A reasonable uniform programme should allow the issue of two uniforms to each employee upon employment and a third set on confirmation.
Advantages Of Providing Uniforms To Staff
Having uniforms for the staff is an essential at most hospitality properties, for the following reasons:
• They ensure a well groomed appearance for staff.
• They help to create an atmosphere or set the scene.
• They help identify the hotel staff and their position to the guest.
• They help differentiate between staff and guests.
• If made in the right design of work, they provide comfort for the staff.
• They instill a feeling of belongingness and loyalty to the establishment among the staff.
• They enhance the spirit of teamwork.
• They allow employees to save money on working clothes and costs of laundering.
• It is easier for staff to take up messy jobs when they know that their own clothes are not involved.
• Some uniforms may have a protective role.
• Some uniforms may confer prestige on the wearer
SBN /648/AO/3rd/4th SEM
BSC H&HA
Issuing And Exchange Of Uniforms
Issuing Uniforms to New Employees
Uniforms are issued against a specific authorization letter received from the personnel department. The employee is required to sign for his or her particular uniform. A uniform slip is also provided to the employee. The uniform is then issued from the linen room.
| Uniform Issue Slip |
|Name of employee………………. .. date……………………………………….. |
|Token No……………………………… Date of joining…………………………… |
|Designation…………………………… Department………………………………. |
|Uniform………………………………. No. of sets………………………………. |
|Uniform issued on……………………. Uniform issued to……………………….. |
|……………………………………….. ………………………………………….. |
|Personnel Manager Linen and uniform room supervisor |
| |
|I accept the responsibility of the uniform/s issued to me. I understand that the uniform should not be taken out of the hotel |
|premises. On leaving the organization, the uniform/s shall be duly returned to the uniform room. |
| |
|……………………………… |
|Signature of the employee. |
Issuing uniforms to regular employees
Uniforms are usually given to employees on a one-to-one basis, that is, one fresh uniform for a soiled one. On leaving the organization, an employee has to get a signature for uniform clearance from the linen room supervisor, failing which the last pay cheque is withheld.
Uniform exchange procedure
o For regular employees, ensure that they have arrived for uniform exchange at the stipulated time.
o Check the uniform being returned for any damage.
o Issue a fresh uniform strictly on a one for one basis.
o Make out the uniform exchange slip in duplicate during an exchange.
o Damaged uniforms to be reported immediately.
| Uniform Register |
|Date |Laundry No. |Time received at counter |Time cleared from counter|Remarks |
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
| |
|Linen and uniform room supervisor……………………………………… |
| Uniform Exchange Slip |
|Sl. No…………. Date……………….. Token No……………. |
|Coats……………….. Shirts…………………… |
|Saris……………….. Caps……………………. |
|Pants………………… Blouses………………… |
|Linen and uniform room supervisor…………. Employee………………… |
Selection And Designing Of Uniforms.
Terry cots are the most popular choice for uniforms as they have the advantages of both natural and synthetic fibres. Suiting materials are used for trousers, skirts. Drill is the popular choice for cooks coats and aprons as they are cool, durable and easy to maintain. Gabardine or any white suiting material may be used for chefs coats as they keep up their appearance. Employees in the back-of-the-house areas normally wear functional, yet pleasing uniforms. Uniforms for the Restaurant and Front Office staff must not only be functional but also must go with the ambience of the area they work in. For example, a pool side restaurant in a resort property can have stewards dressed in Bermudas and a floral shirt with accessories like a straw hat and sandals. A hotel which is very `Indian' can have a doorman dressed up like a royal Punjabi guard with a lot of accessories (head gear, brass buttons, lance..)
Points to be considered while designing:
1. The general profile of the employees must be taken into account. Their cultural background, age etc. Some hotels even involve the staff concerned while designing.
2. The kind of image the hotel wishes to project and the ambience to be created must be considered.
3. Designing for work comfort is of paramount importance. Pockets are an important part of designing. A dungaree/overall must have several deep pockets for the maintenance employee to keep his handy tools. A steward must have pockets which are not very conspicuous to keep pen, lighter etc. Shoes chosen for the cooks must be skid proof.
4. Climatic conditions of the place must be considered, if the hotel is not centrally air conditioned. A full sleeved Terylene shirt with a tie can be stifling for a steward in a humid area. Generally cooks and maintenance crew use 100% cotton uniforms (drill).
5. Laundering and maintaining the uniforms is another challenge. Blends are easier to maintain. However blends are not recommended for employees working in greasy areas(cooks, maintenance) as synthetics and blends do not let go off greasy and perspiration stains easily. Lesser the accessories, lesser the headache of keeping a tab of them.
6. The fabric chosen for uniforms must be readily available whenever new uniforms are required.
7. Turnover of staff is another challenge. Free size uniforms can be used in high turnover areas. Trouser or skirt waist band can be elasticized to accommodate different sizes.
8. Budget
Assignment 1:
Uniform Designing
Design a uniform for a hotel employee of any designation keeping the points mentioned below:
|S.No. |Criteria |Marks allotted |Marks obtained |
|1. |Profile of the Organization |3 | |
|2. |Department, designation |2 | |
|3. |Ambience |4 | |
|4. |Design description |6 | |
|5, |Design Visuals |6 | |
|6. |Fabric type with samples |6 | |
|7. |Accessories |3 | |
|8. |Comfort and maintenance factor |4 | |
|9. |Cost |6 | |
|10. |Presentation |4 | |
|11. |Team Effort |6 | |
| |TOTAL |50 | |
Sewing Room
A. Activities and areas to be provided
B. Equipment provided.
The first essential for successful sewing is a good work area. Ideally it should be a small room set apart for the purpose.
Activities In The Sewing Room
The following activities are carried out in the sewing room:
✓ Altering uniforms
✓ Patching of table linen
✓ Repairing expensive linens such as curtains, bedcovers, and slipovers that require a minimum of repair.
✓ Making of pillow cases, sheets and bed spreads.
✓ Repairing hems of sheets
✓ Mending of guest clothing.
✓ Repairing mats and rugs
✓ Making of pads for the polishing of silver from used mattress pads
✓ Converting condemned linen into reusable forms
✓ Stitching of upholstery
✓ Making recommendations for the quantity of material required for upholstery, curtains and so on…
Sewing Area
Good lighting in the sewing room is essential. Storage space should be provided for fabrics, patterns and smaller equipment. A pegboard screen is useful for hanging tools, clothes and storage bags. The work surface should be large enough, atleast 2*1 sq.m, for cutting and pinning, and also firm enough to bear the load of the sewing machine. Small items such as thread, zippers, and trimming should be stored in a basket, workbox or shallow drawer. Repairs should be made with 100% polyester threads, which give strength and do not shrink.
SBN /648/AO/3rd/4th SEM
BSC H& HA
Equipment Provided
Cutting tools
Fabric shears or scissors should be used only for cutting fabrics, as using them on paper will blunt them. Small scissors with sharp pointed ends for buttonholes, embroidery etc. A seam ripper cuts stitching without harming the fabric. Pinking shears give a zigzag , fray resistant finish to raw edges.
Measuring Tools
Choose a fiberglass tape measure. A metre stick or metre rule is essential. A set square is needed when cutting upholstery.
Pins And Pincushions
Use fine, sharp pins, preferably 18mm long.
Needles And Thimble
Needles are graded by numbers ranging from 1 to 24.
Thimbles are protective covers worn on the thumb and the second finger when sewing.
Clips And Weights
Pattern Paper
Sewing Machines.
BASIC HAND STITCHES
Temporary stitches/ tacking/ Basing
1. even basting: here the stitches and spacing between them are equal to each other in length.
2. uneven basting: here, the length of the stitches on the upper side is at least twice that on the underside.
3. extra-firm basting: take a long stitch of about 1.5 cm and then take two or three short stitches for the same length.
Permanent Stitches
For all permanent stitches, a single strand of thread matching the predominant colour of the fabric of the fabric is used.
1. joining stitches: these are used to sew two pieces of fabric together and make a seam.
2. running stitch: very similar to basting but the stitches are smaller.
3. backstitch: this si a strong stitch and sometimes substituted for machine stitching.
Edge Finishing Stitches
These are used at the raw edges of the unhemmed fabric.
1. plain hemming: this is used to secure down a folded edge of a material.
2. blind hemming/ invisible hemming/ slip stitch.: these stitches are like plain hemming stitches, except that they are farther apart.
3. overcastting: this is the customary stitch for finishing the raw edges of the fabric to prevent them from unraveling.
4. whipping: this is mainly used for joining two edges and for finishing the edge of fine materials.
5. buttonhole stitch: also known as blanket stitch as it is often used as an edging on blankets.
Fasteners: used on garments to keep plackets closed.
|Write the job specification of a seamstress or tailor |
2. LAUNDRY & STAIN REMOVAL
Chapter Outline
A. Commercial and On-site Laundry
B. Flow process of industrial laundering- OPL
C. Stages in the wash cycle
D. Laundry equipment and machines
E. Layout of the laundry
F. Laundry agents
G. Dry cleaning
H. Guest laundry/ valet service
I. Stain removal
Objectives:
At the end of this topic you will be able to:
• Differentiate the different types of laundry and recommend the most suitable laundry for a particular hotel.
• List the different types of laundering equipment and explain their functions.
• List the chemicals used in a laundry and elucidate their composition and functions.
• Illustrate the workflow in a laundry.
• Explain each step in the laundering process and emphasize the importance of each stage.
• Discuss the four factors which affect laundering.
• Interpret fabric care symbols.
• Draw the staff organization chart of the Laundry.
• List the jobs of each position.
• Design a laundry plan and discuss its salient features.
• Suggest the type of equipment required and their capacities.
• Deduce the causes for various common laundering problems and recommend remedies.
• Explain dry cleaning.
• Discuss Guest Laundry.
• Classify stains and stain removers with examples.
• Explain the different ways of removing stains.
• Enumerate the means by which a stain could be identified.
• Explain the procedure to be followed to remove an unidentifiable stain.
• List the different factors to be considered while removing stains.
• Suggest stain removers and methods to follow for any given stain.
1
LAUNDRY & STAIN REMOVAL
A hotel laundry is responsible for laundering hotel linen, staff uniforms and guests’ personal clothes. Everyday, thousands of linen have to be washed or dry-cleaned, dried and ironed within a matter of few hours.
Operating a laundry involves operating costs like labour, energy, chemicals and water. Wrong laundering procedures and indiscriminate use of chemicals can lead to a poor finish or can cause damage to the fabric.
Hence a person in charge of the laundry needs to have the technical know how in operating and maintaining a laundry, efficiently. This topic gives an insight into setting up and running a hotel laundry.
1. Types of laundry
A hotel may operate its laundry services through –
(a) Commercial laundries : These laundries cater to hotels on a contract basis. The contract specifies the rate for laundering different pieces of linen; the time taken for laundering etc. (Usually the soiled linen are laundered and delivered back within 24 – 48 hours.) They are allowed to keep back 3 – 5% of the soiled linen for stain removal etc. This is a good option if the hotel does not want to make heavy investment in setting up their own laundry and has space constraints.
(b) OPL – On Premises Laundry: The hotel has its own laundry, which may be run by the management or managed on a contract. Setting up a laundry involves high capital expenditures. The type of equipment to be used, their capacities and how well a laundry needs to be designed is of par.Many hotels are ready to make this heavy investment to provide quality service to the guests. More care is taken while laundering, since it is under the direct responsibility of the hotel. Services are faster (maximum 8 hours), hence parstocks are reduced. Better supervision and better control and hence longer life for linen. There are lesser chances of pilferage, since the linen does not leave the premises. However, contingency plans must be made in case of equipment failure. One must be able to fall back on a commercial laundry or another hotel laundry.
(c) Laundromats: These are self service laundries, found in motels.
2
4.2 Work Flow In A Laundry:
1. Collecting soiled linen
2. Transporting soiled linen to laundry
3. Sorting
4. Weighing
5. Spotting (Optional)
6. Washing
7. Extracting
8. Drying
9. Finishing (Ironing)
10. Folding
11. Stacking
12. Transporting fresh linen to linen room.
Collecting Soiled Linens : Room attendants cleaning guestrooms should strip linens from beds and bath areas and put them directly into the soiled linen bags attached to the housekeeping cart. Stewards should shake napkins and tablecloths over a waste receptacle to remove crumbs and food as soon as possible after the table is cleared. These are then later sent to the linen room. In the linen room ,the soiled linen are sorted, counted and recorded before they are sent to the Laundry. Soiled linen should be sent within 24 hours to avoid stains from setting in and prevent the formation of mildew. The collection time is usually fixed so that it does not hamper the normal functioning of the linen room. Linens can then be placed in soiled linen hampers or trolleys for delivery to the laundry.
Transporting Soiled Linens to the Laundry : Linens are either hand-carried or carted to the OPL. Employees who are hand-carrying linens should be careful not to allow items to drag on the floor, further soiling them. Dragging linens can also create safety hazards for staff who could trip over trailing items. Linen carts should be free of protrusions that could snag or tear items. Carts should move easily, and staff should be able to load and unload linens without undue bending and stretching.
Sorting: The OPL should contain a sorting area large enough to store a day’s worth of laundry without slowing down other activities in the OPL. Soiled linens should be sorted
• by the degree of soiling
• by the type of fabric
• by the colour of fabric.
This type of sorting help prevent unnecessary wear and damage to linens. Cleaning rags should always be separated and washed by themselves , never with linen that guests will use. 3
Sorting by Degree of Soiling: When sorting by degree of soiling, laundry workers divide linens into three categories: lightly, moderately, and heavily soiled. Heavily soiled items require heavy duty wash formulas and longer wash time. Moderately or lightly soiled linens are washed with gentler formulas and in fewer cycles. (Sheets are usually classified as lightly soiled, while pillow cases are considered moderately soiled.)
Without sorting by soil, all linens would have to be washed in heavy-duty formula. Lightly soiled items would be over-processed, leading to unnecessary wear. Sorting by soil also saves repeat washing of items to remove stubborn soils and stains.
Sorting, of course, can lead to partial loads of laundry. Doing too many partial loads wastes energy and water. However, if heavily soiled fabrics are not washed promptly, stains could set and ruin the item. Some OPLs solve this problem by providing several different sizes of washers so that smaller loads can be washed promptly without wasting water and energy.
Sorting by Linen Type and colour: Different fibers, weaves, and colors require different cleaning formulas and washing methods. Sorting linens by type ensures that the right temperature and formulas are used on similar fabrics. Wool and loosely woven fabrics, for example, require a mild formula and gentle agitation. Colors should not be washed with chlorine bleach. New colored linens should be washed separately the first few times to avoid dyeing other fabrics. Some special items such as aprons should be washed in nylon bags to prevent tangling.
Washing: After linens are sorted, laundry workers collect batches of laundry and deliver them to the washers. Linens should be weighed before they are put into the washer to ensure that washers are not overloaded. Weighing is also important for measuring OPL output Laundry workers at some hotels pre-treat soiled linens before washing them. However, pre treating laundry takes a great deal of time and can increase labor costs dramatically. As a result, most OPLs rely on the chemicals used in the washer to clean linens.
4.3 Wash Cycles : The typical wash process consists of as many as nine steps:
1. Flush/ Prewash (1 to 3 minutes) – Flushes and loosens water-soluble soils using water alone or water with little detergent. This stage prepares the clothes for the next stage.
2. Break (5 to 8 minutes, optional) – A high alkaline break (soil loosening) product is added, which may be followed by additional flushes. The break cycle is usually at medium temperature and low water level.
3. Suds/ Mainwash (5 to 8 minutes) – This is the actual wash cycle to which detergent is added. Items are agitated in hot water at low water levels.
4. Bleach (5 to 8 minutes, optional) – Bleach is added to kill bacteria, whiten
5. Rinse (3- 5 minutes) – Two or more rinses at medium temperatures and high water levels are used to remove detergent and soil from the linens.
6. Sour/softener or starch/sizing (3 to 5 minutes) – Softeners and sours are added to
7. condition fabric. The cycle runs at medium temperature and at low water levels. Starches are added to stiffen cotton fabrics; sizing is added for polyester blends. Starching/sizing replaces the sour/softener step.
8. Extract (1 to 5 minutes) – A high-speed spin removes most of the moisture from the linens. The length of the spin depends on fabric type, extractor capacity, and extractor speed.
Soaking of very soiled clothes are done. This is optional.
Extracting: Extracting removes excess moisture from laundered items through a high-speed spin. This step is important because it reduces the weight of the laundry and makes it easier for workers to lift the laundry and move it to dryers. Extracting also reduces drying time. Most washing machines now have extracting capabilities.
Drying ; Items that are dried generally include towels, washcloths, and some no-iron items. Drying times and temperatures vary considerably for different types of linens. In every case, however, drying should be followed by a cool-down tumbling period to prevent the hot linens from being damaged or wrinkled by rapid cooling and handling. After drying, linens should be removed immediately for folding. If folding is delayed, wrinkles will set in.
Dryers should never be pre-warmed or run when empty. This can lead to “hot spots” which can damage fabric or cause fires. It also wastes energy.
Ironing : Sheets, pillowcases, table cloths, and slightly damp napkins go directly to flatwork irons. Ironers vary in size and degree of automation. Uniforms are generally pressed in special ironing equipment. Steam tunnels are being used more often for removing wrinkles from polyester blend uniforms.
Storing : After folding, the items are post-sorted and stacked. Post-sorting separates any linen types and sizes that were missed in pre-sorting. There should be enough storage room for at least one par. Finished items should be allowed to “rest” on shelves for 24 hours after laundering because many types of linens are more easily damaged right after washing. Once linens are on shelves, yellowing and fading can be spotted quickly.
Transferring Linens to Use Areas : Linens are usually transferred to their use areas via carts. Fresh linen carts should never be used for soil linen pick up as this may lead to cross contamination. This is especially important in hospitals. It is a good idea to colour code fresh and soil linen carts.
4.4 Equipment Used In The Laundry
OPL machinery is a major investment in itself and affects the life span of other major investment-linens. The choice of OPL machines and equipment could mean the difference between a financially successful and a disastrous OPL. Machines with insufficient capacity, for example, result in damaged linens, unsatisfactory cleaning performance, excessive energy and water costs, or increased maintenance costs. Improperly maintained equipment can also lead to higher linen and equipment costs. List of machines and equipment used in the laundry are:
1. Washing Machine }
2. Hydro Extractor } or Wash Extractor
3. Tumbler or Drier
4. Finishing Machine - Calendering Machine or Rotary Ironer
- Steam press
- Flat Iron
- Suzies/ Genies
5. Folding Machine
6. Weighing scale
7. Dry cleaning machine
8. Trolleys
9. Cupboards, Shelves, Racks, Tables
10. Sewing Machine
11. Steam cabinets and Tunnels
12. Boilers
Washing Machines
Most washers are made of stainless steel. They are sized by their capacity (that is, the number of pounds of linen they can handle in a single load). Sizes vary from 10 to 500 kg capacities.
Washers consist of a motor, inside and outside shells, and a casing. The outside shell is stationary and holds the wash water. The inside shell holds the laundry and is perforated to allow water for various cycles to flow in and out.
The washer’s motor rotates either the perforated inner shell or an agitator. The rotating shell or agitator helps the detergent break up soils on fabrics in the wash cycle and remove detergents and other chemicals during the rinse cycles.
Most newer washers have automatic detergent and solution dispensing capabilities. Equipment should have at least five ports (openings through which detergents can be poured). – two for detergents and one each for bleach, sour, and softener. Chemicals that are simply dumped onto the linens can severely damage them.
Most washers have extraction capabilities. The motor spins the inside shell rapidly to remove most excess water after washing is completed. If the washer cannot remove this water, a separate extractor must be used. Extractors are available in centrifugal, hydraulic, and pressure types. Microprocessors are computer controlled washing machines. After the linen are loaded in, the relevant code is punched in. Based on the code, the computer decides the type of programme, the temperature and the chemicals to be utilized for that wash.
Hydro Extractor:
As the name suggests, it extracts water out of the washed linen by means of centrifugal force or by the application of pressure. After extraction, linen are in a damp condition. Hydro extractors and washers are also available as a single unit.
Drying Machines: Tumbler or Dryer/ Tumbler Drier:
The damp linen coming out of the hydro extractor are tightly packed. They are put into tumblers or dryers to loosen them out and also to dry them further. Gas, electricity, or steam heats air. The air flow must be unrestricted to ensure the dryer’s energy efficiency.
Steam Cabinets and Tunnels
Steam cabinets or tunnels effectively eliminate wrinkles from heavy linens such as blankets, bedspreads, and curtains. A steam cabinet is simply a box in which articles are hung and steamed to remove wrinkles. A steam tunnel actually moves articles on hangers through a tunnel, steaming them and removing the wrinkles as they move through.
Calendering Machine/Ironing Machine/Rotary Ironer:
This very large machine consists of several heated and well padded rollers which irons the articles as it passes through. All flat pieces (eg: bedsheets, table cloth, pillow slips) are passed through this machine. After ironing, the articles are folded automatically by an electric device (folding machine) or by hand.
Steam press:
Uses heat and steam to press clothes. The neatly folded clothes (e.g. shirt, trousers etc. ) are sandwiched between two plates, the ‘head’ which gets hot and the ‘buck’ , through which the steam is passed. Steam presses have additional attachments like the cuff and collar press.
Suzies/ Genies:
They are made of inflatable material and are in the shape of a human torso. The skirt/pant/ coat to be ironed is draped on the suzie. When put on, it is pumped up with hot air and inflated. The heat and the stretching action, irons the clothes out.
Flat iron/ Hand iron
Trolleys/Rolling/Holding Equipment
Rolling and holding equipment is used for linen handling. Carts are used in most laundries to move linens and to hold them after they have been sorted for washing, drying, and finishing. Carts must be kept orderly so that staff can move freely through the OPL. They must also be carefully marked so that carts for clean linens are not mixed up with those used for soiled items.
Dry cleaning machine:
Operates like the washing machine; but instead of using water, it uses dry cleaning fluid like perchlorethylene. Clothes are washed and rinsed in this solution, the solvent is filtered and re-used automatically in the machine.
Tunnel washers:
Used in very large laundries where tons of linen are washed.These washers are like a tunnel with different compartments for pre-washing, main washing, rinsing and extracting. As soon as the first cycle is finished on the first load of laundry, the wash moves into the second chamber.The laundry attendant can then load the first chamber with the next batch.
Sewing Machine – for repair jobs
Cupboards/Shelves/Racks/Tables
Weighing Scales: To weigh linen before loading the machines
4.5 Planning an OPL
A decision on whether to include a laundry ideally should be made in the initial planning stage of a facility. If this is not done, considerable cost may be necessary to change plumbing and electrical systems. Very hot water, cold water, steam, gas and large sewer drains and water lines are essential plumbing considerations. Hot water should be available between 160 and180 degrees for proper sanitation in the machines. Both 115 and 220 grounded electric outlets should be provided in strategic locations for the laundry equipment.
Location
The location of the laundry is strategic because of transportation problems and the noisy and humid nature of the area. The laundry should, if at all possible, be easily accessible from the linen room so that heavy bundles of laundry can easily be transported from one location to another. It should be located away from guest areas because of the noise, vibration and humidity problems unique to a laundry. It should preferably be on the outside of the building to provide adequate venting. The laundry should be located so that it can be operated and/or used by both men and women.
To minimize installation cost and disruption, check out utilities and drains available in this location.
Size:
It is difficult to state an optimum size for laundry because of the many variables that have to be considered for individual needs. Rule of thumb for hotels is 7 sq ft./room.(not including soil storage).For soil storage: 1cu.ft. for every 8 lbs.(upto a height of 4 ft.)
Equipment selection
Laundry equipment must be considered in relation to initial cost, life expectancy, maintenance and depreciation. Local costs of utilities such as electricity, water and gas need to be considered.
Generally it's wise to install two small washers rather than one big one. This is because:
• it will take less time to accumulate a full load for a smaller machine;
• you'll have a backup if one machine needs service;
• you'll be able to handle small, odd lots more efficiently;
• you'll be able to wash two different types of goods(e.g. heavily soiled uniforms and lightly soiled sheets) concurrently;
• small machines impose less of a shock load on hot water and electrical systems.
Exceptions which call for a single large machine rather than two small models:
• when the choice is between one 35-lb, commercial machine or several home appliance washers (here, choose the commercial machine because of professional washing quality, durability, and efficiency);
• when space won't permit two machines;
• when the capital budget won't permit two machines (generally. one large model costs less than two small models).
Where a choice is available, consider buying one washer-extractor with high speed extraction and one with low speed extraction. The former can be used for towels as well as permanent press sheets, and the latter can be dedicated to permanent press sheets (which need less extraction speed). This will reduce the total price.
An extractor is a machine that forces most of the moisture out of the laundry by applying centrifugal force. After extraction, the wet laundry weighs about 1 1/2 times the weight of dry laundry. Combination washer-extractors cost less than two separate machines, require less space and eliminate one step in the laundry process (i.e., removing the wet laundry from the washer and putting it into an extractor). A washer-extractor with a 25 lb. capacity will take approximately 25 minutes to complete a cycle.
Regardless of whether a separate washer and extractor are selected, a dryer is needed. Commercial dryers are referred to as tumblers. In general, the tumbler should have a capacity of about 25 per cent greater than the extractor. By estimating the laundry requirements by day, week, and year, the capacities and the number of machines required can be calculated.
Wet laundry must be moved from the washer-extractor to the dryer; dry laundry must be moved to storage shelves and to shower areas and equipment issue areas. To facilitate these transfers, utility baskets, hampers and/or trucks must be provided.
A work table, with casters on the legs, is very convenient for folding towels and other laundry. It can readily be moved about the room as needed. There should be cupboards or bins for storage of detergents, soaps, bleaches and other cleaning agents.
Layout
The layout of the laundry should be such that there is an easy flow of traffic. In positioning machines, pay close attention to entries, exits, columns, drain locations, exhaust areas, ventilation, and machinery access. Separate the soiled and clean laundry handling areas as much as possible, to prevent recontamination of clean goods.
Doors need to be large enough to initially get the equipment into the room as well as being large enough to effectively enter and exit with utility carts and/or laundry baskets Swinging doors are good for cart movement. They should have windows for safety and bumpers or guards to protect their appearance. Thresholds should be flush.
Ceilings should be impervious to moisture and have good sound absorption qualities. An 8 to 10 foot high ceiling is sufficient. Floors are very important in the laundry. They should be level concrete slabs capable of supporting the heavy cleaning machines. The floor around the machines should be sloped and there should not be any low spots in the floor where water can pool. Concrete is the most suitable floor material and can be covered by one of the synthetic resinous materials available with
a smooth yet non slip surface.
The walls should be constructed of a material that is durable, moisture resistant and insulating. Windows should be avoided so that wall space can be used for storage shelves and bins; however if they are required, care should be given as to their placement in order to eliminate glare. Any windows should be constructed with wire glass and be located high on the wall.
Allow at least 18 inches between machines (the same applies to a side wall). Dryers can usually be placed side by side (allow about an inch between them).Provide at least two feet between the back of the machine and the wall. If space is tight, try locating machines in front of a large door to a hall or to the outside. The door can be opened for servicing the machines.
Try to locate dryers next to an outside wall. They must be vented. Soiled storage and sorting should take place near the washers. Dryers should be a minimal distance from the washers, but they should not interfere with loading and unloading (or sorting).
The folding table and area should be located so that finished work is moving toward its final storage area in preparation for distribution.
Labor
First check within the organization for employees with regular slack periods, you may use them to help in the laundry.
One rule of thumb for a small institutional laundry is that one person would be able to handle about 80 lbs. an hour.
Other Costs
Costs of supplies such as soap, bleach and softening agents should be estimated, and consideration should be given as to how bulk quantities of these supplies will be stored. Decisions have to be made as to who will maintain and supervise the laundry and what work force will be utilized.
After all these factors have been considered, comparisons can be made with commercial laundry charges to check out an OPL's feasibility.
| |
|Activity 1 : Draw the layout of a full fledge laundry of a five star hotel of 200 guest rooms. Mark the placements of equipments(as per scale)|
4.6 Chemicals Used In Laundering / laundry agents
Hotel and other commercial OPLs use many more chemicals to wash linens than people use in their washers at home.The hotel laundry “fine-tunes’ its chemicals to ensure an effective wash that leaves linens looking as close to new as possible.The following list provides a brief description of the major categories of chemicals used in laundry operations.
Water : is the major cleaning agent in laundering. Water must be soft, clean and devoid of minerals to give a good wash. Hard water can prevent lather formation and damage clothes in the long run. White colored clothes turn grey in hard water. Hard water can also clog pipelines. Hence hard water must be softened.
Detergent:
Water by itself cannot clean fabrics, due to its surface tension. Hence detergents are used. A good detergent must have the following properties:
• Wetting properties
• Emulsifying
• Suspending
In addition, detergents must be:
• Readily soluble in water
• Effective in all kinds of water and over a wide range of temperatures.
• Harmless on skin and fabrics.
• Able to clean effectively with minimum efforts
• Rinsed away easily
• Biodegradable
Detergents can be in the form of a liquid, powder or cake. Liquid detergent disperses well in water. However, it does not have all the ingredients of a powdered detergent. Liquid detergents are normally used for washing delicate fabrics.
Detergents are also available as:
Pure Soaps or Neutral Soaps are used for delicate garments. They are formed by saponification. They do not act in hard water
Synthetic Detergents act in hard water and they have several chemical additives to act on different types of fabrics and varied range of temperatures.
Built soap / Builders are highly alkaline in nature and are used for highly soiled linen. Detergents with enzyme have pepsin in them.They help in breaking protein stains. However the wash temperature must not exceed 50 degrees centigrade as pepsin gets inactivated.
Synthetic detergents are commonly used in laundering. Their basic ingredient is surfactant. Surfactants can be cationic, anionic or non ionic.
Other Additives are :
1) Alkaline Builders eg: Soda, Borates, Silicates and Complex phosphates
2) Sodium Silicate – Prevents corrosion
3) Sodium Sulphate – Bulking agent . Constitute 20%
4) Sodium Carboxy Methyl Cellulose – Dirt suspension in cotton fabrics
Ethyl Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose – Dirt suspension in synethtics
5) Sodium Perborate or Sodium Percarbonate – Oxidising bleach. Removes stains 85 – 100 C
6) Tetra Acetyl Ethylene Diamine (TAED) – Bleaching agent. Lower temperature
7) Foam/Lather stabilizers – Ethanolamides
8) Fluoresers
9) Enzymes
(10)Germicides, Perfumes, Dyestuff
Alkalies : Alkalies or alkaline builders help detergents lather better and keep stains suspended in the wash water after they have been loosened and lifted from the fabric. Alkalies also help neutralize acidic stains (most stains are acidic),making the detergent more effective. E.g. soda, borax.
Bleaches: Bleaches cause strong chemical reactions that, if not carefully controlled, can damage fabrics. Used properly, bleaches help remove stains, kill bacteria, and whiten fabrics.
Caution: Avoid
• Oxidising bleaches on rust stains as they get fixed.
• Reducing bleaches on wool and silk as they get yellowed.
• Chlorine bleach on polyester and polyester blends as they ge damaged.
Antichlors are used to neutralize the chlorine left behind by chlorine bleach. E.g. sodium thiosulphate . Polyester fibers retain chlorine, and for this reason is typically treated with antichlors when chlorine bleach is used.
Fabric (optical) brighteners. Brighteners make white fabrics seem whiter by changing the wavelength of ultra violet rays. These chemicals are often pre-mixed with detergents and soaps.
Mildewcides. Mildewcides prevent the growth of bacteria and fungus on linens for up to 30 days. Both these types of micro organisms can cause permanent stains that ruin linens. Moisture makes a good breeding ground for mildew growth. Therefore, soiled damp linen should be washed promptly and not allowed to sit in carts for long periods. Clean linens should be dried and/or ironed as they are removed from washers or extractors.
Sours. Sours are basically mild acids used to neutralize any residual alkalinity in fabrics after washing and rinsing. Detergents and bleaches contain alkali, and any residual alkali can damage fibers and cause yellowing and fading. In addition, residual alkalies can cause skin irritation and leave odors.
Fabric softeners. Softeners make fabrics more supple and easier to finish. Softeners are added with sours in the final wash cycle. They can reduce flatwork ironing, speed up extraction, reduce drying time, and reduce static electricity in the fabric. Too much softener can decrease a fabric’s absorbency.
Starches. Starches give linens a crisp appearance that stands up during the items’ use. If they are used, starches should be added in the final step in the washing process.
Four Factors In Laundering:
1. Temperature
2. Mechanical Action
3. Chemical Action
4. Time
1. Temperature: the major reason why we wash in hot water. “For every 10 ºC rise in temperature, the rate at which soil is removed is doubled”.
High temperature has other advantages and disadvantages.
|Advantages |Disadvantages |
|Melts fats | Fixed protein soils |
|Disinfects linen |Costs energy |
| |Decomposes wool |
| |Can bleed colour |
| |If not carefully cooled, causes creasing of polyester |
2. Mechanical Action: Physically breaks up soil and detaches soil from linen.
Factors affecting mechanical action:
• Loading – amount of linen in machine.
• Water levels – amount of water in machine
• Foam
• Machine type
• Type and size of pockets
3. Time:
Generally the longer the wash the better!
Exceptions:
The heavier the degree of soiling; the shorter the first wash should be
If a main wash of more than 16 minutes is required, it is better to do two eight minute washes
4.7 Dry Cleaning
This is the cleaning of fabrics in a substantially non-aqueous medium. In dry cleaning, dry powders and liquids such as perchloro ethylene, benzene etc are used to remove stains .Unlike laundering, dry cleaning does not cause swelling of the fibers and thus does not lead to shrinkage, wrinkles and bleeding of colours
Advantages of dry cleaning
✓ Dry cleaning suits all fabrics
✓ Causes no shrinkage
✓ Does not flatten the pile of fabric such as velvet
✓ Finishes are retained even after dry cleaning
✓ Colours do not bleed
✓ Stains are easily removed
Disadvantages
✓ Expensive
✓ dry cleaning solvents are harmfull to health if inhaled
✓ after dry cleaning a certain un pleasant smell is retained
Process of dry cleaning
Marking
Every article is marked individually to facilitate identification
Sorting
Garments are sorted into:
✓ white and light coloured clothes
✓ dark coloured clothes
✓ white and light coloured woolens
✓ dark coloured woolens
✓ drapery and furniture covers
✓ rain clothes
✓
Application of absorbents
Absorbents are applied to remove grease spots from all kinds of materials .The common absorbents used are starch, powdered magnesia, French chalk, fuller’s earth , bran etc
Pre spotting
Pre spotters are applied using a spotting gun, which uses compressed air to help spray the solvent on to the stain or a heavily soiled area. solvents such as amyl acetate, emulsifying agents and enzymes are used for pre spotting.
Cleaning
Clothes are loaded to the dry cleaning cylinder. very delicate clothes are placed in a net bag.an appropriate solvent is circulated through the clothes. the contact time of the clothes with the solvent and the rinsed time may vary. immersion and agitation of the garments in the solvent takes place, loosening the soil and dissolving it.
Extraction
Excess solvent is removed from the garments by centrifugal action in a revolving perforated cylinder
Drying
After extraction, the garments are dried, temp is controlled and kept around 70 degree centigrade.
Filtering and distillation of the solvents
Solvents are expensive and therefore filtered out distilled and reused
4.8 Guest Laundry
Managing Guest Laundry is one of the major responsibilities of the Housekeeping Department.Guest laundry must be picked up in time, laundered and delivered back to the guests in time without any mix ups. Usually clothes collected in the morning are given back the same evening. The hotel also caters to Express Laundry which takes about 2 hours. The guests are usually charged extra. Considering the amount of guest laundry handled in a day, this requires for following proper systems and procedures. Since Guest Laundry consists of different types of fabric, each will have to be dealt with care individually.
PICK UP TAGGED & WASHED (OR)
RECORDED DRYCLEANED
DELIVERED HUNG (OR) IRONED SORTED
BILLED PACKED
Laundry list
Every guest room is provided with laundry bags and laundry lists .the guest ia expected to place the soiled clothes in the laundry bag, fill out the laundry form with the necessary details, and place a call to the house keeping to get the laundry collected.
The valet checks the clothes against the list and take them down to the linen room .here the clothes are checked for repairs needed and stray items left in the pockets, they are marked or tagged and details are recorded to avoid misplacement. the clothes are washed, drycleaned or ironed according to the guest’s requests. before ironing the clothes are re-sorted according according to the room no.the ironed clothes are packed and delivered to the guest rooms with the counter foil of the laundry lists.items found in the pockets are delivered back to the guest along with the laundry.
Valet service
4.9 Stain Removal
`Stain’ is a spot or mark of discoloration left on fabrics by the contact and absorption of some foreign substance. Some stains can be removed during the normal washing process. But certain stain require special treatment with stain removal agents the use of these agents require care as these can cause weakening of fibres, bleeding and can damage the fabric. So, we must be able to identify stains as far as possible and should also know if certain agents can harm certain types of fabrics.
Stains can be broadly classified as
a) Animal: Caused by blood, egg, milk, meat juices. As these contain protein matter; heat must be avoided. Otherwise it may coagulated get fixed into the article.
b) Vegetable: caused by tea, coffee, cocoa, fruit, wine. These are acidic and therefore requires alkaline reagents to remove them.
c) Grease: caused by butter, curry, oil paint, varnish, tar. Usually grease solvents are used to remove them.
d) Dye: can be acidic and alkaline
e) Mineral: rust, black ink, iron mould, certain medicine stains
f) Scorch : caused by a very hot iron
g) Grass: stains come under vegetable group but a different method is used for removing the green coloring matter chlorophyll.
The main stain Removal agents are:
(a) Organic solvents:
i) Inflammable eg: benzene, white spirit, turpentine, acetone, methylated spirit.
ii) Non-inflammable eg: carbon tetrachloride, perchlorethylene. These solvents usually do not harm fabric. But certain solvents like acetone dissolves rayon acetate .Others affect rubber. These solvents can remove grease stains and other non-greasy stain like chewing gum, ballpoint ink, cosmetic stains etc.
(b) Acids: eg: oxalic acid, potassium acid oxalate (salt of lemon). Certain fibres and dyes are susceptible to damage by acids. However dilute acids can be used on whites. Acids are used to remove metal stains like iron mould and rust. It is essential to neutralize the acid by rinsing the articles in a weak alkaline solution. Otherwise any remaining acid can cut into the fabric and damage it. However animal fibres (like wool, silk) are susceptible to damage by alkalies)
(c) Alkalies: eg: soda, borax. Usually removes vegetable stains like tea, coffee, coco, wine etc. Alkalies can adversely affect dyes and animal fibres.
(d) Bleaches: are used to whiten an article. It should be used carefully as this can weaken fibres. Bleaches can be (i) oxidising bleaches (ii) reducing bleaches.
i) Oxidising bleaches: eg: Sodium hypochlorite, hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate. Sodium hyp. can damage animal fibres. It can remove difficult stains from cotton and linen but it fixes iron stains. It can be damage certain fabrics containing resins (50/50 polyester/cotton) as the resins tend to retain chlorine. Usually an antichlor eg: sodiumthiosulphate is added to the final rinse to remove all traces of chlorine.Hydrogen peroxide is a slower acting agent and is usually used on whites.Sodium perborate is present in soaps and detergents. It is safe and used on most fabrics.
ii) Reducing bleaches: eg: sodium hydrosulphite. These remove oxygen or add hydrogen to the fabric. It can be used on most white fabrics and can also be used to remove rust stains and stripping dyes. However certain white articles bleached by reduction can get yellowed in sunlight. eg: wool, spandex.
(e) Enzymes: eg: powdered pepsin. Used for the removal of protein stains on all fabric. Heat must be avoided as it can coagulate and fix protein stains.
Different Methods Of Removing Stains:
1 Dry cleaning method:-
Remove surface deposit
Dab stain with a pad saturated in the recommended solvent.
Blot dry after each application.
Launder.
2 Absorbent Method:
Remove surface deposit
Apply absorbent powder thickly over
Flatten gently
Remove when saturated.
3. Sponging and soaking Method
Non washable fabric
Remove surface deposit
Sponge with cold water
Pour cold water from a height of 2 - 3 feet.
Washable fabric
Remove deposit
Rinse with cold or warm water
Soak in the recommended cleaning solution
Sponge with cleaning solution.
Rinse in water and Blot dry.
4. Sponging and Soaking Method: (Upholstery/Carpet)
Sponge the stain using shampoo foam
Blot dry
Rinse with cold water by sponging
Leave it to dry.
If stain persists - follow Method 1or seek professional help
5. Boiling Water Method-
Stretch fabric over basin
Sprinkle stain with a little detergent or borax
Pour boiling water through the stained part from a height of 2 - 3 feet.
Rinse
6. Bleaching Method
To treat an unknown stain
i) Soak in cold water.
ii) Dry and use a grease solvent.
iii) Use an acid
iv) Use an alkali
It is essential to remove agents completely by neutralising, washing or rinsing the fabric.
Factors to be kept in mind while stain removal:-
1. Treat stains as soon as possible.
2. Consider the fabric. Follow manufacturer's instructions.
3. Check the effect of the remover in an unimportant part.
4. Use weakest methods first
5. Use weak removers
6. Work from the outside of the stain to the inside.
7. Acidic or alkaline removers must be neutralised after application.
8. After treating; launder or dry clean.
Removal Of Common Stains
Alcohol
1. Wipe up immediately and sponge with warm water.
2. Use detergent solution and rinse.
3. If necessary, use chlorine/hydrogen peroxide bleach.
Ball point
1. Use methylated spirit or se glycerine with ammonia solution.
2. If necessary, use chlorine bleach solution.
Beer
1. For dried stains, use hydrogen peroxide solution (whites) or white vinegar (colored).
Blood
1. Soak immediately in cold water.
2. Wash in warm enzyme detergent solution or soak in hydrogen peroxide solution.
3. For dried stains use ammonia.
Candle wax
1. Scrape off deposit.
2. Place a blotting paper over and under the stain and pass a warm iron over it. Change the paper and repeat the process until the wax is absorbed.
3. Remove any remnant discoloration with methylated spirit or dry cleaner.
Chewing gum
1. Chill with ice to harden and scrape off.
2. Use dry cleaner.
Chocolate, Cocoa
1. Scrape off deposit.
2. Use enzyme detergent solution or borax solution.
3. If necessary, use dry cleaner.
Coffee
1. Wash off immediately.
2. Use borax solution.
3. For dried stains, use glycerine solution.
4. If necessary use chlorine bleach.
Cosmetics ( Lipstick, foundation, blusher)
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Sponge with glycerine. Rinse.
3. Use dry cleaner.
Curry
1. Remove deposit and use glycerine solution.
2. Use enzyme detergent solution or ammonia solution.
3. If necessary, bleach.
Egg
1. Scrape off deposit.
2. Soak in cold salt water.
3. Use enzyme detergent solution.
Fish slime
1. Soak in salt water and wash as usual.
Fat/Grease
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Use absorbent powder
3. Or use blotting paper and warm iron.
4. Wash in warm detergent solution or dry cleaner.
Jam/Ketchup
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Wash with detergent.
3. If necessary, use bleach.
Metal polish
1. Use spirit or dry cleaner.
Mildew
1. Moisten with lime juice and salt.
2. Dry in the sun.
3. If necessary use hydrogen peroxide or chlorine bleach solution.
Mud
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Use detergent solution.
3. For dried stains, brush and use drycleaner.
Nail varnish
1. Remove surface deposit. Use non-oily nail polish remover or methylated spirit.
Paint, oil based
1. Remove surface deposit
2. Use thinner/ turpentine/ white spirit.
Paint, water based
1. Remove deposit.
2. Wash in cold water.
3. For dried stains, use methylated spirit.
Pencil
1. Use an eraser.
2. If necessary, use a drycleaner.
Perfume
1. Sponge with water immediately
2. Use glycerine solution.
Perspiration
1. Sponge with warm enzyme detergent solution or use ammonia solution.
2. For old stains use white vinegar solution.
3. If necessary use hydrogen peroxide solution/ chlorine bleach solution or dry cleaner.
Resin
1. Use eucalyptus oil or thinner.
Rust
1. Use lime juice and salt.
2. Or use oxalic acid.(2%)
Sand
1. Brush off excess.
2. Soak in detergent solution.
Scorch
1. Soak in borax/ hydrogen peroxide/ ammonia solution. May be impossible to remove from wool, silk.
2. For non washables, rub with glycerine solution. If necessary, sponge with borax solution.
Shoe polish
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Use dry cleaner or spirit.
Smoke/Soot
1. Vacuum deposit.
2. Soak in detergent solution.
3. Use dry cleaner for non-washables.
Tobacco/Grass
1. Use eucalyptus oil/glycerine/ methylated spirit
2. If necessary, use dry cleaner or chlorine bleach.
Urine
1. Rinse in cold water and launder as normal.
2. For dried stains soak in enzyme detergent solution.
3. If necessary, use hydrogen peroxide and ammonia solution.
Vomit
1. Remove surface deposit.
2. Rinse in cold running water.
3. Soak in enzyme detergent solution.
3.9 Common Laundry Problems
|Problem |Cause |Solution |
|1. Graying |Too little detergent |Increase amount of detergent; add bleach |
| |Wash cycle temperature too low |Increase temperature. |
| |Poor sorting; transfer of soiling occurs |Rewash with increased detergent at hottest possible temperature. Use suitable bleach. |
| | |Do not dry. Rewash with detergent bleach. Launder new colored clothes separately, especially the first few |
| |Color "bleeding" |times. |
| | |Soften water or use synthetic detergent. |
| |Pure Soap used in hard water | |
|2. Yellowing |Insufficient detergent |Increase the amount of detergent or bleach. |
| |Wash temp. too low |Increase temperature. |
| |Use of chlorine bleach on wool, silk or spandex items. |Yellowed items cannot be restored. |
| | |Avoid chlorine bleach on such items |
| | | |
|3. Rust Stains |Iron/Manganese in water supply pipes or water heater. |Rewash with a commercial stain remover. Do not use chlorine bleach. Use water softener. If rust is in pipes, run|
| | |the water for sometime to clear the line. |
|4. Blue Stains |Blue color in detergent, fluorescer or fabric softener |For detergent or fluorescer stains soak items for an hour in a solution of one part white vinegar per four parts|
| |softener. |of water. For softener stains, rub with bar soap and wash. To prevent stains, use a liquid detergent or |
| | |fluorescer |
| | |Soak in a plastic container in a faded solution of 1 cup white vinegar to one gallon water. To prevent, switch |
| | |to a liquid detergent. |
| | | |
| | | |
|5. Poor soil removal |Too little detergent |Increase amount. |
| |Wash temperature too low |Increase temperature |
| |Overloading washer |Wash fewer items per load, sort properly; use the proper amount of |
| | |detergent and water temperature. |
|6. Greasy or oil |Too little detergent |Treat with stain remover; increase stains the amount of detergent. |
| |Wash temperature too low |Wash in higher temperature. |
| |Undiluted fabric softener has come in to contact with fabric |Rub fabric with bar soap and wash;. |
| | |dilute the fabric softener before adding . |
|7. Residue of powder |Undissolved detergent (especially noticeable on dark clothes |Add detergent to the washer before putting the clothes in and then start washer. Remove stain by mixing up of |
| |). |one cup of white vinegar to one gallon of warm water. |
| | |To prevent residue, switch to a liquid detergent. |
| |Non-phosphate granular detergent combines with water minerals| |
| |and forms residue | |
|8. Lint |Improper sorting (mixing napped fabrics with others) |Prevent problems by sorting more carefully. |
| |Tissue in aprons or uniform pockets. | |
| |Clogged washer lint filter or dryer |Check pockets before laundering. |
| | |Clean filters and screens after lint screen each use. Dry items and pat masking or transparent tape, rewash and |
| | |use fabric softener in final rinse. |
| |Over drying causes static electricity which attracts lint. |Rewash items using fabric softener; remove items from dryers when they are slightly damp. |
|9. Holes, tears, snags |Incorrect use of chlorine bleach |Always use bleach dispenser and bleach with 4 parts water; never pour directly on linens. |
| | |Fasten them before washing. |
| |Unfastened zippers, hooks, buckles |Inspect and repair as necessary. |
| |Burrs in washer |Avoid overload. |
| |Washer overload | |
|10. Color fading |Unstable dye |Test fabrics for color fastness before hand. Wash colored items separately |
| | |Use cooler water. |
| |Wash temperature too hot |Use oxygen bleach, if necessary. |
| |Improper use of bleach |Dilute bleach. |
| |Undiluted bleach poured on fabric | |
|11. Wrinkling |Failure to use correct cycle. |Use perm. press cycle; cooler temperature; |
| |Overdrying |Remove dried clothes from the drier immediately. |
| |Washer/dryer overload |Do not overload. |
|12. Shrinking |Overdrying |Reduce drying time; remove items while damp and stretch knits back into shape; dry flat |
| | |Allow for some shrinking when purchasing items. |
| |Residual shrinking |Lower agitation and reduce extraction speed. |
| |Agitation of wool items | |
|13. Pilling |Synthetics pill naturally with wear |Prevent unnecessary pill by using fabric softener and spray starch or fabric finish. |
| | | |
|14.Glazed or fused |Dryer/iron heat too high |Lower heat. |
|15. Loss of absorbency |Washing/ drying temperature too high |Reduce heat |
| |Too much fabric softener | |
| | |Use less softener. |
FLOWER ARRANGEMENT
Chapter Outline:
4.1 History of Flower arrangement
4.2. Elements of Flower arrangement
4.3. Principles of Flower arrangement
4.4. Different types of Flower arrangement
4.5. Basic styles and Outlines of Flower arrangement
4.6. Placement of Flower arrangements
4.7 Basic equipment and tools used
4.8 Conditioning of flowers
4.9 Use of flowers in hotels
Objectives:
At the end of this chapter you must be able to:
• Discuss the elements and principles that are to be followed in flower arrangements.
• List, explain and identify the different types of flower arrangements.
• List, illustrate and explain the Basic styles and Outlines of Flower arrangement
• Recommend where these styles could be used.
• Suggest placement of Flower arrangements.
• List the basic equipment and tools used and indicate how they could be used.
• Enumerate the different ways of conditioning flowers to last longer.
• Discuss use of flowers in hotels.
4.2 Elements of Flower Arrangement
a. Line: Can be vertical or horizontal, diagonal, curved.
b. Form: Lines put together to provide a three dimensional effect
c. Texture: Can be soft, smooth, shiny, rough or scaly.
d. Colours: Adds interest. Bright colours such as red, orange, and yellow add warmth whereas, deep green blue, purple give a cooling effect to the surrounding.
e. Space and size are also elements to be taken into consideration.
4.3 Principles of Flower Arrangement
The above elements contribute to the following six principals.
a. Harmony: This can be brought about by using forms, textures, colours etc. that are similar.
b. Contrast: If all elements used are similar, it could look very monotonous. So, contrast can be brought about by using different elements. Caution: Too much of contrast can be disturbing.
c. Balance: This relates to the "size" of the flowers and their placement. Larger and darker flowers look heavier and they are kept towards the bottom center whereas, smaller and lighter flowers radiate away from the central point. Balance can be symmetrical (formal) when the arrangement looks similar on either side. An asymmetrically balanced (informal) arrangement can look interesting.
d. Proportion & Scale: Flowers should be in proportion with the vase and the arrangement should be in proportion with the location. For eg. Reception counters should have a tall one sided arrangement. In case of tall vases the tallest point in the arrangement should not exceed 1 & 1/2 of the vase. In case of a flat vase, the tallest point should not be more than 1 & 1/2 times the width of the vase.
e. Emphasis: It can be brought about by contrasting colours (red roses with green ferns) or by contrasting texture or arrangement. The best flowers are placed at the focal point to attract attention. Helpers or supporters (like foliage) enhance the decorative value.
f. Rhythm: Produced by a continuous flow of lines by repetition, radiation and alternation.
Following some of the above principals can produce a pleasing arrangement.(Arrangements need not follow all the principles).
4.4 Different types of flower arrangement
a. Traditional or Western: These arrangements are formal mass arrangements. Various types and colours of flowers and foliage are used to give a symmetrical look from all sides.
b. Abstract: Based on structural designs or geometric patterns.
c. Japanese: Ikebana, Moribana and Rikkua are the most popular. Japanese arrangement conveys a lot of meaning. Ikebana follows the principal of three points; the tallest depicts heaven, the middle point, man and the lowest point depicts earth. In Ikebana all these three points converge in the vase; whereas in Moribana , flat shallow vase is used and the points don't converge.
d. Free style: Combination of Western and Ikebana styles with the inclusion of one's own variations.
e. Miniature: Very small arrangements made in very small vases using delicate flowers and foliage.
f. Floating: Flowers, leaves, plants usually water plants are arranged in vases which are floated in large containers.
g. Dry arrangement: Preserved flowers, drift wood, leaves are used. They are allowed to dry and coated with a clear varnish.
4.5 Six basic Styles and Outlines
1. Line arrangement
a. Vertical arrangements: A tall arrangement with a strong upward movement. Stems originating from a central point at the base of the arrangement.
b. Horizontal arrangement: A shallow arrangement often used on dining tables. The focal point is towards the center and the stems radiate in all directions from this point.
2. Triangular arrangement: The arrangement shape may be equally balanced on each side or it can be asymmetrical. First, the basic outline of the form is created; then, it is filled with the flowers or foliage of various lengths.
3. All around arrangement:A circular/oval outline and a balanced and similar appearance from all sides. All stems radiate from a central point both vertically and horizontally.
4. One-sided facing arrangements
5. Crescent arrangement: The crescent may be symmetrical or asymmetrical.
6. Landscape designs: It represents a natural setting such as a countryside, garden etc. Usually a base of slate/ unpolished wood is used. Scale and simplicity are of paramount importance.
4.6 Placement of flowers
1. Eye level: On TV tops, tables, counters, alcove etc.
2. High level: Anything above the eye level. Flowers used must be hanging or trail down. It can also be suspended from the ceiling.
3. Low level: In this case, flowers and vases must be huge and decorative. Even design of landscape etc. drift wood, large and decorative vases can be used.
4.7 Basic equipment required in flower arrangements
1. Florist scissors or shears - They do not crush the stem like normal scissors.
2. Normal scissors, blades.
3. Pin holders - Also called Kenzan. It has a metallic base with a number of pins which help in anchoring the stalks. While buying pinholders one must ensure
• that the base is heavy.
• the needles are sharp.
• it should not rust in water
• it should be proportional to the size of the vase.
4. Sponge - Also called oasis. It is synthetically made. It has to be soaked until it becomes soft. The flowers are inserted into the sponge.
5. Chicken wire mesh - It is crumpled and used as flower holders.
6. Bucket, mug, sprayer.
7. Vases, flowers and foliage.
8. Accessories like pebbles, rubber bands, glass pieces, marbles to conceal the pinholders. Rubber bands, sewing thread, needles, pins, tooth picks, supporters.
4.8 Conditioning of flowers
For longer lasting flower arrangement:
1. Flowers must be cut in the evening(1/2 hr. after watering) or, early morning.
2. Well formed buds last longer than fully bloomed flowers.
3. Always cut long stalks. If stalks are short extra items like reepers or fillers can be used.
4. Always cut stalks diagonally rather than a straight slash. This increases the surface area and the stalk ends do not get choked when pinned onto the pin holders.
5. Immerse the stalks in a bucket of water immediately after cutting. Leave them in water for 1 - 2 hrs.
6. It is better to re-cut stalks under water to avoid air bubbles.
7. Leaves should not be soaked in water.
8. Hollow stems can be filled with water, blocked with cotton wool and immersed in water. Sappy stems must be singed with a candle flame to coagulate the sap at the end to prevent the sap from oozing out. The stalk ends can be dipped in boiling water for 2 - 3 minutes. Hard stems can be crushed or slit at the ends to ease water flow.
9. The flower arrangements should never be placed in sunlight.
10. The water level in the vases must be checked and topped if necessary. If the water starts smelling it must be changed.
11. A pinch of salt or aspirin in the water helps to keep flowers fresh for a longer period of time.
12. A finished arrangement will not show its holder/s at the base. In a hotel with gardens, there is usually a horticulturist who deals with the garden, plants and has a florist to arrange flowers too; otherwise with no garden, a florist works for the house keeping department and takes care of indoor plants as well as arranging flowers.
9. Use of flowers in hotels
Large arrangements of flowers are generally placed in the lobby, Reception desk, Restaurants (not on tables), buffets, and bars and in suitable niches as available. Suite and VIP guests also get arrangements. Some hotels provide a bud vase in every room. The room attendants make the bud vases while the florists do all the other arrangements.
Medium round arrangements are provided at the GRE’s disk in the lobby, coffee tables in the lounges; the hostess desk in Restaurants, etc.
Restaurants have generally bud vases with one or two flowers inside.
Table arrangements for banqueting and conferences must be in low containers and not high as the guests may not see over them.
Many hotels provide bud vases for offices of Heads of Departments.
On special occasions, festivals etc., a large amount of flowers are required for various type of arrangements. Some hotels make floral carpets in the Lobby, on special occasions.
To cut down the expenses on flowers, some hotels use floating arrangements with water lilies or dried arrangements. These can last a long time.
Bouquets are made on request for the guests. These are normally charged.
INDOOR GARDENING
Chapter Outline:
1. Common indoor plants.
2. Display and arrangement of indoor plants.
3. Care of house plants.
Indoor plants form an integral part of decoration in a hotel. They add charm to the architectural beauty of the hotel and complement the interior setting.
The modern architectural designing, air-conditioning, central heating and built-in `planters’, have facilitated the growing of plants indoor. The house plants which enliven the indoor environment are the best link between man and nature.
1. Common indoor plants.
These are also known as house plants. There are several species and varieties of indoor plants, which include both foliage and flowering plants. They come under ornamental foliage plants, ferns, palms, bromeliads, cacti and succulents, herbaceous annuals, biennials and perennial flowering plants and bulbous flowers.
Ornamental Foliage Plants: Asparagus, Begonia, Cyprus.
Ferns: Maidenhair Fern, Bird’s Nest Fern, Silver Fern, Boston Fern, Hare’s-Foot Fern, Squirrel’s-Foot Fern, Brake Fern
Palms: Areca Palm, Kentia Palm, Pygmy Date Palm.
Flowering Plants: Anthurium, Begonia, Fuchsia, Orchids
2. Display and arrangement of indoor plants.
When incorporating plants into the decorative scheme of a room, the same considerations of taste apply as in flower arranging. Plants are more permanent than cut flowers and some grow to be big, so scale is very important. There is less choice in placement because of varying needs of light and temperature. Hence it’s important to know shade and sun loving plants and place them accordingly.
• Pots arranged in groups are more effective than pots here and there. Since leaves are a permanent feature, it is important to group together, interestingly contrasted foliage. Shape may be a more important consideration than colour.
• Plants kept at the back of a group should be taller, or if short, can be kept raised.
• If a variety of foliage and colours are used, keep the background plain.
• Plants placed on window ledges can obscure an uninteresting view.
• Wooden steps placed in corners can display plants in a terraced style.
• If a room is too small, one plant can be placed in a corner on its own or a striking climber can be encouraged to travel up a shelf.
• A small attractive plant in an interesting container or a miniature dish garden can be placed on a coffee table.
• Wire or wicker baskets, bird cages or any hanging bowls could be hung from the ceiling. The plants chosen must be of the trailing type.
• Plants placed in ‘empty’ looking corridors can add interest and make the place look alive.
• Plants can also soften the stark look of a bathroom.
Colorful Window-Boxes
Built-in window-boxes are permanent rectangular structures constructed as projections outside the windows. These can also be made of wood and fixed outside the window. With suitable plants they provide a splash of colour to be enjoyed from inside as well as from outside the window. These often enliven the drab and bare walls and surroundings.
A better practice is to place potted plants inside the window box then to plant directly in it. The advantage in this method is that the plants can be placed or removed according to the need and also help to overcome the difficult task of changing the soil in the box when it becomes sick. It is thus always possible to have a colourful display of flowers and foliage and to alter the plant arrangements frequently to break the monotony of any particular type of display. The box should have proper depth so that the pots placed inside are not visible from outside. Besides the plant height, colour and size of foliage, flower colour and size and the time of flowering, the situation (whether sunny or shaded) is equally important in choosing the plants.
Table Garden and Miniature Landscapes
A desert or woodland scene, rock garden or formal garden scene can be created with the use of miniature plants right inside the room. Use of pebbles and stones in the desert scene or small weathered rocks, moss, etc. in a rock garden produces natural effects. In formal garden designs, small garden paths using small pieces of slate, green lawn raised from seeds and cut occasionally with small nail scissors and miniature flower beds and plants can be used effectively. The planters, particularly the large troughs are often fitted with legs and castors so that they may be placed at suitable corners in the room and removed occasionally outside to the verandah or balcony to provide sunshine to plants whenever required.
Bowl and Dish Garden
Large glass-bowls are also used for growing plants. Regular and proper watering and light are essential in maintaining the plants indoors in a healthy condition. After two or three years, when the plants outgrow or lose their form, it may become necessary to undo the arrangement and create the composition again with small younger ones.
Terrarium
A terrarium is a rectangular glass case with a cover. Aquarium cases can also be utilized for this purpose. The terrarium has a glass-cover at the top which is removed occasionally to provide ventilation which is necessary for the growth of plants. Since the terrarium is closed the plants do not require frequent watering as the moisture from the transpiration of leaves and soil evaporation condenses on the glass, returns to the soil and becomes again available to the plants. If there are not drainage holes at the bottom of the terrarium a layer of coarse sand and small charcoal pieces about 3-6 cm thick may be spread at the bottom before filling in the soil mixture consisting of equal parts of soil, leaf-mould and sand.
The arrangement of plants in the terrarium should be planned before planting. Overcrowding of plants should be avoided and some space between the plants should be left to provide a little room for them to grow later. Very fast and vigorous growing plants should not be included for planting as they may outgrow quickly and smother other plants. With a proper choice of plants and careful watering, the plants in a terrarium may live for several years without replacement. However, sometimes one may have to replace those plants which get smothered by other vigorous growing plants or which due to diseases or insect infestation.
Bottle Garden
Ferns can be grown successfully in a large bottle. Before planting, the bottle must be thoroughly cleaned with soap and water and made to sparkle by rubbing it with a clean cloth. A mixture of coarse and crushed charcoal may be poured into the bottle to form a 3 cm thick layer at the bottom and later a mixture of equal parts of soil, sand and leaf- mould through a paper funnel. While introducing the soil mixture, care should be taken that it does not cling to the sides. Small plants can be introduced with a fork or a desert spoon tied to a thin bamboo cane with wire or tape. With these small tools it is not difficult to manipulate the soil around the roots of the plant. After planting, the plants should be watered lightly with a tube and the bottle corked tightly. While planting great care should be taken to avoid sprinkling soil over the leaves of the plants. Any soil resting on the surface of the leaves can be washed off with a fine sprayer. The bottle-garden, like a terrarium requires very little watering.
Pots and Containers
Earthenware, glazed clay, China (porcelain) and plastic pots, dishes, shallow bowls and troughs and wooden barrels or planters in various sizes and shapes like round, rectangular, square, oval, elliptical, oblong, cone-shaped, or heart shaped are commonly used for growing indoor plants. The large containers should be preferably on casters for easy movement, whenever required. A variety of pottery containers in contemporary designs is also available in many shapes. However, earthenware pots are less expensive and being porous provide better aeration of the soil than plastic or ceramic pots. Brass or copper receptacles, which become hot quickly in summer, are not suitable for growing plants in tropical climate. . The pots or containers ma be plain or ornamental in design, depending upon the interior furnishings of the room with which these should harmonize in colour as well as in texture. The pots and other receptacles must have drainage holes at the bottom. It is necessary to stand the pots on platters. A group of pots may be placed on a metal tray. The water drip after watering will collect in these platters and trays. It would be better to stand the pots on a block of wood or on pebbles and stones in the platter to avoid direct and constant contact of plants with water which is harmful for the growth of plants. Besides it also provides adequate humidity to plants, particularly during summer. The potted plants kept on stands or wall brackets should be watered carefully by placing a tray or dish below them for collection of excess water.
3. Care of House Plants
A proper environment is essential for the healthy growth of plants and it varies with different house plants. The success in growing a house plant depends largely on the ability of the grower to provide a satisfactory environment. The proper environment of a plant comprises of
• light,
• temperature,
• humidity,
• water and
• soil, feeding (nutrition)
• cleaning
• potting and repotting
• pinching and pruning.
• propagation
All these factors are interrelated. Besides,
• diseases and
• insect pests
also affect the health and quality of the plants.
Light
Plants require light for their growth but the intensity of light needed by them is not the same. Plants like Croton,, Rubber plant, Begonia and a few other flowering plants require higher intensity of light, and Ferns require medium light. In general, green foliage plants require less sunlight than those with variegated or coloured leaves. The plants requiring plenty of sunshine grow best on a south window while those needing medium light may be placed near east and west windows and the shade-loving plants on the north side of the room.
If the room does not get sufficient sunlight it should be supplemented by artificial light. Fluorescent tubes, two of 40 watts each, and one or two incandescent lamps, 40 – 60 watts each may be placed about 30 – 45 cm above the plants and illuminated for 16 hours a day will provide sufficient light for the growth of plants. Spotlights when placed at appropriate sites but not too near the plants can be functional as well as useful to accent the plants.
The plants grown in poor light conditions will show symptoms of weak and lanky growth and pale leaves. The older leaves die and drop off and the new ones become smaller in size. When the partial-shade-loving or shade-loving plants are grown in bright sun, their leaves get scorched, becoming brown and drying later. The plants should be grown in shade or partial-shade for acclimatization before they are brought indoors.
Temperature
Day temperatures between 18o to 24oC with night temperatures about 10o C lower are best for the growth of most of the house plants.
Indian Rubber Plant, ferns, Cacti and succulents thrive best at a higher temperature (21o – 27o C) than Begonia, Geranium, and Fuchsia which require a cooler temperature (15o – 21o C). The injury to house plants is usually due to warmer temperature and not due to cold, as the plants generally grow satisfactorily up to a temperature of 15o C. The heat injury results in weak and spindle-shaped growth of plants and browning of leaves.
Humidity
A relative humidity of 40 to 60 per cent is best for the growth of plants. Humidity to some extent is related to temperature. During summer, the humidity can be increased by occasionally spraying fine mist of water on the foliage, sponging the leaves with water and placing the pots on wet moss, moist sand, gravel or pebbles kept in platters or trays. Low humidity may cause tip-burn in leaves of some foliage plants..
Water
One of the main causes for the injury or mortality of house plants is improper watering, either inadequate or over watering. The requirement of water varies with different house plants. Cacti and succulents need less frequent watering then Cyprus and Calla which can grow even under wet conditions. Generally the plants with thin leaves require more water than others. Besides this, the frequency of watering will also depend on the stage of plant growth, size of the plant in relation to its pot, type and size of pot, season, soil or medium used, light, room temperature, humidity and position of the plant in the house. Small pots which dry out more rapidly require more frequent watering. Plants in flowering need more water than those in young stages of growth or those which are newly potted. During summer, when the temperature is high and humidity low, plants require watering more frequently than in winter when the temperature is low and plant growth in general is slow. A heavy soil with plenty of clay requires less frequent watering than a sandy loam soil.
Wilting is often a common indication of insufficient soil moisture but it may also be due to constantly saturated soil. A plant removed from a dark corner to a sunny situation may also show signs of wilting.
Pots can be watered both from top and bottom. Watering from the bottom can be done through a wick or by half submerging the pot in a shallow bowl or basin of water or by placing the pot in a saucer full of water. In these methods, the water rises up through the bottom hole and as soon as it reaches the top soil, remove the pot from water, drain off the excess water and place the pot again at the site where it was before. Watering from bottom is better than that from top, as it avoids over-watering and it is preferable for cacti and succulents, African violets and Gloxinia. It is always a good practice to saturate thoroughly the soil while watering and then again water it when it is on the verge of drying but not completely dry. Light watering daily may lead to accumulation of salts at the top or side and cause marginal tip-burning of the leaves.
Soil
A soil mixture containing equal parts of soil, organic matter (leaf-mould, compost or cowdung manure) and coarse sand is ideal for foliage plants, small quantities of wood ashes, bonemeal or superphosphate and crushed charcoal are also added to the soil mixture. About one tablespoonful of bonemeal or a teaspoonful of superphosphate will be sufficient for a 15 cm pot of soil. The soil mixture should neither be too dry nor too wet at the time of potting.
Feeding
Generally the nutrients present in the medium containing soil and organic matter are adequate for the growth of house plants. The plants do not require extra feeding unless they become pot-bound. After repotting the pot-bound plant in a bigger pot or container, a nutrient solution prepared by dissolving 3 gm of NPK complex or Rosemix may be applied to the plant. Feeding can be given to the plants once a fortnight. Fertilizers or manures should not be applied during winter when the plant is resting or dormant or growing slowly and also not on a dry soil. Soot water and liquid cow dung manure are also beneficial to foliage plants. Sometimes when pot-bound plant is not repotted, the top few centimeters of soil from the pot can be removed and replaced with a mixture of equal parts of soil and leaf-mould or finely crushed cow dung manure to which a small amount (one tablespoonful) of bone-meal is added.
Cleaning
The foliage of house plants must be cleaned regularly by spraying with water to remove dirt, dust and grease. A small amount of milk or a few drops of vinegar may be added to the washing water to improve the appearance of leaves. Application of one teaspoonful of carbonate of ammonia dissolved in one litre of water to foliage plants brightens their leaves. There are certain chemical formulations, like `leaf shine’ and other aerosols available, which are sprayed on leaves to give them a glossy appearance. Syringing the foliage with a fine spray of water is also useful, particularly during summer. The hairy and silvery-grey leaves should be gently cleaned with a soft brush. The hairy leaves of African violet and Rex begonia may be gently brushed with a soft-bristled paint brush.
Potting
A pot appropriate to the size of the plant may be selected for potting. Potting in very large pots is harmful to plants as it tends to deplete the soil of its nutrients by leaching before new roots develop and occupy the soil. Before potting, the pot should be thoroughly cleaned and crocks put over the drainage hole. The plant should be set in the centre of the pot and the soil filled gently around the roots. When the pot is full the soil may be firmed by pressing with fingers, leaving about 1 – 2 cm at the top, below the rim to allow for water. The potted plant should then be watered thoroughly and placed in partial-shade until it establishes itself.
Repotting
When a plant becomes pot bound with its roots matted around the outside of its earth-ball, it needs repotting. A few plants, such as, cacti, succulents and Aspidistra which are slow-growing, do not require frequent repotting. However, the fast-growing Geranium and Begonia require shifting to a larger pot at least once a year. The plants are generally repotted during the rainy season when it is easier for them to become established and form new roots and shoots. After repotting the plant should be thoroughly watered and kept out of direct sun until it is established
Pinching and Pruning
In Coleus, Bougainvillea, Geranium, Pelargonium, Fuchsia and Chrysanthemum, pinching is commonly practiced by removing apical shoots or tips to encourage side growth. It makes the plant bushy. Pruning is done to control the shape of the plant or to stimulate new growth. Roses are pruned to encourage new growth and for production of better flowers.
Climbing plants require support to climb and for this purpose moss sticks are ideal. Vines can also be trained on a trellis, bamboo sticks or strings fixed in the pot. The climbing plants are trailed on a trellis or strings to form a screen for dividing space in a large room.
Propagation
House plants are propagated by seed, stem cutting, leaf cutting, division, runner and air-layering.
Diseases
The common diseases in house plants are stem-rot and root-rot which are found in cacti and succulents, usually caused by soil – borne fungi, leaf spot caused by fungi, bacteria or viruses and powdery mildew caused by fungi. In the case of stem-rot the affected parts may be removed and sulphur dusted on them. For the control of root-rot soil sterilization is necessary and the affected plant should be repotted in sterilized soil. Treat the soil with formalin and cover it with a polythene sheet so that the fumes do not go outside. After about a fortnight remove the polythene sheet and stir the soil thoroughly to remove the left-over fumes, if any. This sterilized soil can then be used in pots. The leaves showing symptoms of leaf spot (yellow and brown) should be removed and burnt. Sometimes spraying with Bordeaux Mixture helps to control the leaf spot disease. The powdery mildew which causes grayish-white powdery covering on stems and leaves, can be controlled by dusting with sulphur.
Insect Pests
The house plants are sometimes attacked by insect pests. Most of them can be easily picked and destroyed. These may be effectively controlled by spraying or dusting pesticides.
PEST CONTROL
A pest is simply a living thing whose interests conflict with the interest of man. Pest cause diseases, damage property and contaminate food.
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SBN /648/AO/3rd/4th
SEM/ BSC H&HA
SBN,AS/648/AO/ 3rd/4th sem Bsc H&HA
[pic]
[pic]
SBN /648/AO / 3rd/4th Bsc H&HA
Activity 1: Illustrate the difference between symmetrical and asymmetrical balance, and proportion & scale rules related to a tall and shallow vase..
Activity 2: Differentiate by illustration – Ikebana and Moribana.
Activity 3: Illustrate different styles – vertical, horizontal, all round, one-sided ( fan), triangular, crescent.
Activity 4: List and identify atleast 15 types of flowers and foliages used in flower arrangements.
648/SBN/ 3rd/4th Sem/BSc
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