T he Washoku Way - Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries

The

Washoku Way

Japan's Nuanced Approach to Food

Preface

F or many people around the world, sushi is the most familiar type of Japanese cuisine. Yet while it is easily had in cities small and large across the globe, there are many aspects to making it well that are less familiar.Line-caught fish,for example,are preferable to netted hauls for a proper sushi topping. The sharpness of the knife and how deftly it is used greatly affect the flavor of sushi as well. Concerns like these are why Japanese cuisine, known as washoku in its homeland, intrigues chefs and other food lovers with its breadth and depth.

This book introduces the great variety washoku offers, in foods ranging from the traditional to the innovative and the casual to the formal. In its pages you'll also find a host of reasons why the washoku approach to cooking and eating is not only delicious, but one of the healthiest choices you can make.

Though its overall land mass is limited, mountainous Japan has abundant rainfall, plentiful snowmelt, and a vast network of underground water channels that feed its paddy fields and

crops. This ease of cultivation has spawned a remarkable food culture where the old ways are still very much in place. The ancient wisdom of curing, preserving, and fermenting foods still thrives today, and is why we have dashi, miso, soy sauce, and sake--integral parts of Japanese cuisine that are used around the world.

The washoku approach stresses that these blessings of nature be handled with care and gratitude. The ingredients we use are the very source of life itself, so nothing is wasted. Respectful of the environment, washoku celebrates our coexistence with all living things on earth.

And washoku is pleasing to the eye. Its visual harmony stems from a mindful balance of flavor, color, and method of preparation, as well as the eclectic mix of well-made crafts used for tableware. As you enjoy a washoku meal, take a moment to savor the experience with all five senses. A truly rich world beckons.

Photography by Ainoa

Table of contents

What is washoku?

Vegetables--Selective cultivation behind Japan's rich variety of produce

2

Rice--Steamed, pounded, or brewed, it's central to the washoku diet

4

Fish--Tricks of the trade for keeping it fresh

6

Wagyu--Grown with care for fine marbling

8

Wild plants and sea vegetables--Bounty of woods and water

9

Ichiju sansai--Composing a complete washoku meal

10

Celebratory foods--Festive fare for special gatherings

12

Washoku form and style

Cha-kaiseki--Sharing the pleasures of the table

16

Knives--The right tool makes all the difference

22

Tableware--Eclectic designs for interest and play

24

Sushi--Crafted for balance

26

Tempura--Drawing out and sealing in color and taste

28

Shabu-shabu and sukiyaki--Two sumptuous ways to enjoy Wagyu

30

Fugu--Licensed chefs turn poisonous fish into seasonal delicacy

31

Shojin ryori--Healthy food for the spirit and body

32

Itamae kappo--The counter culture experience

33

Culinary journeys around Japan

Bento lunch boxes--Whole histories of style and regional flair

34

Local fare--Across the country, a wealth of flavors on the daily table

36

Dashi stock--The savory base of washoku

38

Miso--Highly versatile biotic goodness

40

Soy sauce--The ultimate natural flavor enhancer

41

Sake--An integral part of Japan's culinary tradition

42

Condiments--Building blocks of good flavor

44

Yakumi--Piquant, peppery, and zesty kicks

45

Wagashi--Confections for every season

46

Japanese green teas--A dose of instant serenity

47

Casual washoku around town

Soba

48

Shokudo eateries / Udon

50

Unagi

51

Yakitori / Oden

52

Donburi / Tonkatsu

53

Ramen

54

Izakaya / Okonomiyaki

56

Washoku words to know

57

1

Vegetables

2

What is washoku?

Referring not only to Japanese cuisine both traditional and modern, but to the larger realm of Japan's food culture itself, the term "washoku" is written with the characters wa, meaning harmony, and shoku, or food. Intrinsic to the concept is the notion of balance, an idea that plays out in nutritive terms as well as contextual ones relating to the ways foods are prepared, presented, and enjoyed. Let's begin our exploration of washoku with a look at the vast array of fresh produce and other ingredients it draws upon, as well as the most fundamental components of a washoku meal.

Selective cultivation behind Japan's rich variety of produce

While at base washoku refers to the traditional Japanese meal consisting of rice, miso soup, side dishes, and pickles, in the context of food culture the term extends to special celebratory meals such as those made for annual events, as well as to issues of etiquette in preparation, in service, and at the table.

Whatever the context, washoku wouldn't be washoku without the rich variety of produce made possible by Japan's clime and its terrain that stretches long distances from north to south. Four distinct seasons--or five if the early-summer monsoon is counted--

yield produce unique to each, a diversity that is reflected in the cuisine. The varying climates and elevations encountered from one end of the country to another offer chefs a vast range of regional produce from which to choose. Moreover, vegetables grown in Japanese soil owe their excellent flavor firstly to a naturally abundant supply of high-quality soft water, and secondly to selective cultivation that has stepped up taste as it has increased yield.

As many as 150 types of vegetables are sold in Japan, including imported varieties that have taken root here. Heirloom varieties, such as the iconic ones

from Kyoto, Kaga (Ishikawa prefecture), and Edo (Tokyo), have been grown long since before selective cultivation took on, and interest in their unique qualities continues to rise. Defined as produce grown in the same region by more than three generations of farmers using cultivation methods unique to the area, these native strains heighten the appeal of Japanese produce.

Throughout the country, more and more initiatives are underway to preserve heirloom varieties for subsequent generations, a movement that will only gather momentum as more chefs come to taste the difference.

3

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