Magyaros és tájjellegű házi kenyérsütés

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Magyaros ?s t?jjelleg h?zi keny?rs?t?s

K?rp?t-medencei magyaros konyha... sorozat (VIII. k?tet)

Magyaros, t?jjelleg, rusztikus ?s si keny?rf?l?k h?zi k?sz?t?se. Hagyom?nyos h?zi keny?rk?sz?t?s eszk?zei, folyamata. Lep?nykenyerek, keny?rlep?nyek ?s h?zi kenyerek. Magyaros ?s t?jjelleg keny?rf?l?k h?zi receptjei. ?zes?t?s, fszerez?s, gazdag?t?s, p?tl?s. Kov?szol?s, dagaszt?s, szakajt?s, bevet?s, kis?t?s. Hagyom?nyos ?s t?jjelleg h?zi-keny?r receptek. R?gi fog?sok, alkalmi megold?sok. Gyakori keny?rhib?k, lehets?ges megelz?s?k. Sok sikert a k?s?rletez?shez! ?tleteket ?nnepekre! J? ?tv?gyat!

K?zirat ___________________________________________________________________________

Budapest, 2016.

TARTALOMJEGYZ?K

BEVEZET?S .........................................................................................................................8

A j? keny?r ......................................................................................................................8

HAGYOM?NYOS H?ZI KENYEREK K?SZ?T?SE ...........................................................9

Eszk?z?k ?s felszerel?sek ..................................................................................................9

Kenyeres eszk?z?k ...........................................................................................................9 Dagaszt?tekn .............................................................................................................9 Vakar? .........................................................................................................................9 Keny?rabrosz ...............................................................................................................9 Kov?szfa ....................................................................................................................10 Szakajt? .....................................................................................................................10 Szakajt?kend............................................................................................................10 Keny?rvizes kors?......................................................................................................10 Kov?szos k?cs?g .......................................................................................................10 Keny?rs?-tart? ...........................................................................................................11 Kever m?lyt?l ..........................................................................................................11 Kever fakan?l...........................................................................................................11 T?rfa ........................................................................................................................11 Liszt-rosta..................................................................................................................11 Keny?rk?s ..................................................................................................................12 Keny?rkend..............................................................................................................12 Gy?r?k?t?ny ..............................................................................................................12

Keny?rs?t felszerel?s ...................................................................................................12 Kemence ....................................................................................................................12 Piszkafa .....................................................................................................................12 Sz?nvon? ...................................................................................................................13 Pemete .......................................................................................................................13 S?tlap?t ....................................................................................................................13 T?zes-kanta................................................................................................................13 Kanta-kocsi................................................................................................................13 Keny?rsepr...............................................................................................................13 Keny?rvakar?.............................................................................................................13 Hamulap?t .................................................................................................................14 Hamuv?d?r ................................................................................................................14 S?tk?t?ny.................................................................................................................14

Hagyom?nyos keny?r k?sz?t?se ......................................................................................14

H?zi keny?r-lisztek ........................................................................................................14 Tiszta keny?r-lisztek ..................................................................................................14 Kevert keny?r-lisztek .................................................................................................15

Hagyom?nyos keny?rk?sz?t?s folyamata ........................................................................15 Hagyom?nyos keny?rk?sz?t?s mozzanatai ..................................................................16

Keny?rk?sz?t?s fbb l?p?sei ...........................................................................................18 Hagyom?nyos lep?ny-keny?r .....................................................................................18 Hagyom?nyos keny?r-lep?ny .....................................................................................18 Hagyom?nyos kov?szos keny?r..................................................................................18

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Egyszerre kov?szolt keny?r........................................................................................18 Szakajtva kelesztett keny?r ........................................................................................18 Kov?szos-?leszts keny?r ..........................................................................................18 Hagyom?nyos ?leszts keny?r....................................................................................19 Dagaszt?s n?lk?li keny?r............................................................................................20 S?tporos keny?r .......................................................................................................20

Keny?rs?t?si m?dszerek.................................................................................................20 Perzsel s?t?s.............................................................................................................20 Gz?s s?t?s................................................................................................................20 Egyenletes s?t?s.........................................................................................................21 Lehl s?t?s...............................................................................................................21 Mosdat?s s?t?s...........................................................................................................21 Form?s s?t?s ..............................................................................................................21 K?v?n s?t?s ...............................................................................................................21 R?cson s?t?s ..............................................................................................................21 Hamuban s?t?s...........................................................................................................21

Hagyom?nyos keny?r-receptek ......................................................................................21

Hagyom?nyos lep?ny-kenyerek......................................................................................22 Cs?ng? puliszk?s lep?ny-keny?r.................................................................................22 Alf?ldi dar?s lep?ny-keny?r .......................................................................................22 Vasi lep?ny-keny?r ....................................................................................................22 rvid?ki olajos lep?ny-keny?r....................................................................................22 Csall?k?zi zs?ros lep?ny-keny?r .................................................................................23 Beregi lep?ny-keny?r .................................................................................................23 Ny?rs?gi keny?r-lep?ny ..............................................................................................23 Udvarhelyi lep?ny-keny?r ..........................................................................................23 Szigetk?zi lep?ny-keny?r ...........................................................................................23 Hajd?s?gi lep?ny-keny?r............................................................................................23 Tolnai lep?ny-keny?r .................................................................................................23 Mosoni lep?ny-keny?r................................................................................................24 Ny?rs?gi lep?ny-keny?r ..............................................................................................24 Szabolcsi lep?ny-keny?r.............................................................................................24 Nagydobosi lep?ny-keny?r.........................................................................................24 Macesz.......................................................................................................................24 R?gi ostya-keny?r ......................................................................................................24 Csorgatott lep?ny-keny?r ...........................................................................................24 Morzs?s lep?ny-keny?r ..............................................................................................25 K?s?s lep?ny-kenyerek...............................................................................................25 Gy?m?lcs?s lep?ny-kenyerek ....................................................................................25 Lisztp?tl?s lep?ny-kenyerek.......................................................................................25 Magvas lep?ny-kenyerek............................................................................................26 Olajpog?cs?s lep?ny-kenyerek ...................................................................................26 Sz?ks?g- ?s ?ns?glisztes lep?ny-kenyerek...................................................................26

Hagyom?nyos keny?r-lep?nyek......................................................................................26 Erjesztett keny?r-lep?ny.............................................................................................26 Must-kov?szos keny?r-lep?ny ....................................................................................26 M?zes keny?r-lep?ny .................................................................................................27 Must-kov?szos k?les-lep?ny ......................................................................................27 S?r-kov?szos keny?r-lep?ny.......................................................................................27

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Keny?r-kov?szos keny?r-lep?ny.................................................................................27 Tej-kov?szos keny?r-lep?ny.......................................................................................27 Gy?m?lcs?s keny?r-lep?ny ........................................................................................28 K?s?s keny?r-lep?ny ..................................................................................................28 Zabkiszis keny?r-lep?ny.............................................................................................28 Morzs?s keny?r-lep?ny ..............................................................................................28 Csorgatott keny?r-lep?ny ...........................................................................................28 Egy?b keny?r-lep?nyek ..............................................................................................29 Keny?r-l?ngosok........................................................................................................29

Hagyom?nyos kov?szos kenyerek...................................................................................29 C?hes feh?r-keny?r (XV. sz?zadt?l) ...........................................................................29 C?hes fekete-keny?r (XV. sz?zadt?l)..........................................................................29 C?ges p?k-keny?r (XV. sz?zadt?l) .............................................................................29 H?zi b?za-keny?r (1829. k?r?l)..................................................................................30 H?zi rozs-keny?r (1830. k?r?l)...................................................................................30 Koml?s b?za-keny?r (1880. k?r?l) .............................................................................30 T?jjelleg paraszt-keny?r (1900. k?r?l) ......................................................................30 rs?gi keny?r (1905. k?r?l) .......................................................................................30 G?cseji szeg?ny-keny?r (1905. k?r?l) ........................................................................31 Koml?s h?zi-keny?r (1910. k?r?l)..............................................................................31 Debreceni keny?r (1910. k?r?l)..................................................................................31 Bakonyaljai keny?r (1910. k?r?l) ...............................................................................31 Erd?lyi pity?k?s keny?r (1912. k?r?l) ........................................................................31 Cs?ng? pity?k?s keny?r (1913. k?r?l) ........................................................................32 Katonakeny?r (1914. k?r?l) .......................................................................................32 Szebeni sav?s-keny?r (1920. k?r?l)............................................................................32 Sz?kely ?rpa-keny?r (1920. k?r?l)..............................................................................32

Hagyom?nyos kov?szos-?leszts kenyerek .....................................................................32 Feh?r p?k-keny?r (1895. k?r?l) ..................................................................................32 Fekete p?k-keny?r (1895. k?r?l).................................................................................33 Orosh?zi G?mes-keny?r (1902. k?r?l)........................................................................33 Szegedi h?zi-keny?r (1910. k?r?l)..............................................................................33 M?t?szalkai keny?r (1910. k?r?l) ...............................................................................33 Feh?r iparos-keny?r (1912. k?r?l) ..............................................................................33 Burgony?s iparos keny?r (1912. k?r?l).......................................................................33 Somogyi keny?r (1916. k?r?l)....................................................................................33 Szebeni tejes-keny?r (1920. k?r?l) .............................................................................34 Cs?ki pity?k?s keny?r (1923. k?r?l)............................................................................34 rs?gi t?kmagos keny?r (1934. k?r?l) .......................................................................34 F?lbarna p?k-keny?r (1935. k?r?l) .............................................................................34 Szatm?ri keny?r (1936. k?r?l) ....................................................................................34 ?lesztvel seg?tett kov?szos kenyerek ........................................................................34

Hagyom?nyos ?leszts kenyerek ....................................................................................34 Mustos keny?r (XIV. sz?zad elttrl) .........................................................................35 S?r?s keny?r (XVI. sz?zadt?l.....................................................................................35 ?leszts p?k-keny?r (1904. k?r?l) ..............................................................................35 Burgony?s p?k-keny?r (1912. k?r?l) ..........................................................................35 Szerd?kes feles-keny?r (1014. k?r?l)..........................................................................35 Beregi ?rpa-keny?r (1917. k?r?l) ...............................................................................36

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Sz?sz tejes-keny?r (1920. k?r?l).................................................................................36 K?tai h?zi-keny?r (1922. k?r?l)..................................................................................36 Pom?zi h?zi-keny?r (1926. k?r?l) ..............................................................................36 Si?foki kal?cs-keny?r (1926. k?r?l) ...........................................................................36 Soproni hajdin?s keny?r (1928. k?r?l)........................................................................37 B?cskai kukoric?s keny?r (1930. k?r?l)......................................................................37 Somogyi kukoric?s-keny?r (1930. k?r?l)....................................................................37 Lusta-keny?r (1931. k?r?l).........................................................................................37 Mosoni ropog?s keny?r (1931. k?r?l).........................................................................37 B?k?si kal?cs-keny?r (1931. k?r?l) ............................................................................38

Hagyom?nyos s?tporos kenyerek .................................................................................38 Hamuval s?lt pog?csa (nem mese, hanem val?s?g) ....................................................38 Kunpusztai keny?r-lep?ny..........................................................................................39 Szabadsz?ll?si p?sztor-lep?ny ....................................................................................39 Jakabsz?ll?si p?sztor-lep?ny.......................................................................................39 Dorozsmai sz?d?s keny?r...........................................................................................39 Szabolcsi s?s lep?ny ..................................................................................................39 R?ti dar?s keny?r .......................................................................................................39 K?li mustos lep?ny.....................................................................................................40 Derecskei boros keny?r ..............................................................................................40 Erdh?ti m?zes lep?ny ...............................................................................................40 Bdi mustm?zes lep?ny..............................................................................................40 Karancsi m?zes lep?ny...............................................................................................41 Havasi kiszis lep?ny...................................................................................................41 Szilv?si k?poszt?s lep?ny ...........................................................................................41 Tordai m?zes pog?csa ................................................................................................41 rs?gi m?zmustos lep?ny...........................................................................................41 Bikarb?n?s p?k-keny?r (1900. k?r?l) .........................................................................41 Ferti boros keny?r (1920. k?r?l) ...............................................................................41

K?l?nleges t?jjelleg keny?r-receptek ...........................................................................42

K?poszt?s kenyerek .......................................................................................................42 Gy?rk?nyi k?poszt?s keny?r ......................................................................................42 Fekedi k?poszt?s keny?r.............................................................................................42 Hadh?zi k?poszt?s keny?r ..........................................................................................42 Negyedi k?poszt?s keny?r ..........................................................................................42 T?gl?si k?poszt?s keny?r............................................................................................42 K?rtabonyi k?poszt?s keny?r .....................................................................................43

T?k?s kenyerek ..............................................................................................................43 Dobosi t?k?s keny?r ..................................................................................................43 rs?gi t?k?s keny?r ...................................................................................................43 R?calm?si t?k-keny?r.................................................................................................43 Fuki (Dr?vafoki) t?kk?sa-lep?ny ................................................................................43

Geszteny?s kenyerek ......................................................................................................44 Gimesi geszteny?s-keny?r ..........................................................................................44 V?rkonyi gesztenye-keny?r ........................................................................................44 Ber?nyi geszteny?s keny?r .........................................................................................44 G?cseji kost?nyos keny?r...........................................................................................44 M?ramarosi kast?nos keny?r ......................................................................................44

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Gy?k?rz?lds?ges kenyerek .............................................................................................44 rs?gi kerekr?pa-keny?r ............................................................................................45 Szatm?ri zelleres keny?r.............................................................................................45 Ny?r?di murok-lep?ny ...............................................................................................45 Szigetk?zi murok-keny?r ...........................................................................................45 rvid?ki karott?s keny?r ............................................................................................45 Ugocsai veres-keny?r .................................................................................................45 B?rtfai burek-keny?r ..................................................................................................46

Magvas kenyerek ...........................................................................................................46 F?redi mandul?s keny?r .............................................................................................46 Sebesi di?s keny?r .....................................................................................................46 K?rt?si mogyor?s keny?r ...........................................................................................46 rvid?ki t?kpog?cs?s keny?r .....................................................................................46 Pozsonyi m?kos keny?r..............................................................................................47 Kom?romi lenmagos keny?r.......................................................................................47 H?romsz?ki kendermagos lep?ny ...............................................................................47 Vercei magos keny?r................................................................................................47 B?z?s-magvas p?k-keny?r..........................................................................................47 Rozsos-magvas p?k-keny?r ........................................................................................47 T?bb-magvas keny?r..................................................................................................47

Gy?m?lcs?s kenyerek ....................................................................................................48 Ny?rs?gi alm?s keny?r................................................................................................48 Szabolcsi alm?s keny?r ..............................................................................................48 Szatm?ri szilv?s keny?r..............................................................................................48 Zempl?ni asz?s keny?r ...............................................................................................48 Cegl?di meggyes keny?r ............................................................................................48 M?trai bogy?s keny?r.................................................................................................49

Ritka kenyerek ...............................................................................................................49 G?cseji szeg?ny-keny?r .............................................................................................49 Pal?c szeri-keny?r......................................................................................................49 rs?gi bors?s keny?r..................................................................................................49 rvid?ki babos keny?r ...............................................................................................49 Alf?ldi k?s?s lep?ny...................................................................................................49 Tolnai csics?k?s h?zi-keny?r......................................................................................50 Cs?ki szeg?ny-keny?r .................................................................................................50 Beregi ?fony?s keny?r-lep?ny ....................................................................................50 Eleki petrezselymes keny?r ........................................................................................50 Dr?vasz?gi hagym?s keny?r.......................................................................................50 Berezmeni kapros keny?r ...........................................................................................50 B?k?si magos keny?r .................................................................................................50 Pal?c magos keny?r ...................................................................................................51 Kuns?gi magvas lep?ny..............................................................................................51 S?rk?zi magvas vekni ................................................................................................51 Orm?ns?gi t?kmagos l?ngos.......................................................................................51 Kszegi makkos lep?ny..............................................................................................51 Zengi geszteny?s lep?ny...........................................................................................51 B?licsi mandol?s lep?ny.............................................................................................51 Vercei di?s lep?ny....................................................................................................51 H?bor?s komisz-keny?r (1918. k?r?l) ........................................................................52

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Leggyakoribb keny?rhib?k.............................................................................................52

K?sz?t?si keny?rhib?k ....................................................................................................52 Kicsire s?lt keny?r .....................................................................................................52 Laposra s?lt keny?r ....................................................................................................52 Cs?csos keny?r ..........................................................................................................52 T?ls?lt k?rg keny?r ..................................................................................................52 Vil?gos k?rg keny?r .................................................................................................53 Repedezett keny?r......................................................................................................53 F?nytelen keny?r........................................................................................................53 Kem?ny-szil?rd h?j? keny?r.......................................................................................53 Bubor?kos h?j? keny?r...............................................................................................53 T?m?r b?l keny?r .....................................................................................................53 T?l likacsos b?l keny?r.............................................................................................53 Bubor?kos keny?r ......................................................................................................53 V?zfoltos keny?r.........................................................................................................53 Nedves b?l keny?r....................................................................................................53 Rugalmatlan keny?r ...................................................................................................53 Morzs?l?d? keny?r.....................................................................................................54 Se?z keny?r ..............................................................................................................54 S?csom?s keny?r .......................................................................................................54 Savany? keny?r..........................................................................................................54 ?melygs keny?r........................................................................................................54

Keny?rbetegs?gek ..........................................................................................................54 Keser keny?r ............................................................................................................54 Dohos keny?r .............................................................................................................54 Konkolyos keny?r ......................................................................................................54 Csormoly?s keny?r.....................................................................................................54 Szennyes keny?r ........................................................................................................54 Ny?l?s keny?r............................................................................................................54 Sz?nes keny?r .............................................................................................................55 ?szk?s keny?r............................................................................................................55 Pen?szes keny?r .........................................................................................................55

Z?rsz? a Nyolcadik k?tethez.................................................................................................56

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BEVEZET?S

E k?nyvsorozat elz VI. k?tete a K?rp?t-medencei magyaros ?s t?jjelleg kenyerek k?sz?t?s?t igyekezett megismertetni. A VII. k?tet pedig a h?zi keny?r-kelesztk?t. A mostani VIII. k?tet pedig kifejezetten a h?zi kenyerek k?sz?t?s?vel foglalkozik. Egyszer p?ld?kon, b?rki ?ltal elk?sz?thet m?don bemutatni, receptekkel, tan?csokkal. Lehets?get adva ?nyenceknek ?s hagyom?nyrzknek, k?v?ncsiaknak ?s k?s?rletezknek... kipr?b?lni a r?gi ?zeinket, felid?zni a r?gi keny?rs?t?s ?lm?ny?t, feleleven?teni kulin?ris hagyom?nyainkat.

A j? keny?r

Egy r?gi XIX. sz?zadi le?r?s szerint1, de szabadabban ?s mai m?don fogalmazva: j? keny?rnek azt tartjuk, mely dombor?, h?ja se nem igen l?gy, se nem t?lzottan kem?ny. H?j?nak sz?ne s?rga vagy barna, de nem fekete ?gett. Nincs elv?lva a bel?tl, a bele sz?v?s ?s nem morzs?l?dik. Ha a bel?t benyomj?k, az ism?t felduzzad mag?t?l. Ha az alj?t meg?tik ?k?llel, az eg?sz keny?r egyar?nt megrend?l. Apr?n-srn igencsak lyukacsos, a tejet felissza, mint a szivacs. J??z, ?s m?g t?bb nap m?lva sem savany?, se ?leszts, se ny?l?s. Alapanyaga a hagyom?nyosan elfogadott: liszt, v?z, s?, kov?sz vagy ?leszt. Fszerez?s sem ?ltal?nos, helyi ?zl?shez igazod?.

A jelenleg (2016-ban) ?rv?nyes el?r?sok2 szerint a j? keny?r: - alakja: legyen a keny?rt?pusra jellemz szab?lyos ?s ar?nyosan dombor?; - h?ja: a keny?rt?pusra jellemz sz?n, sima vagy cserepes, esetleg sz?rt ?s/vagy v?gott. Nem lehet: v?gigrepedt, kormos, szennyezett, ?gett, ?zott, ?tnedvesedett vagy feltnen s?r?lt; - keny?rbele: legyen egyenletesen ?ts?lt, h?jt?l nem elv?l?, a felhaszn?lt liszt jelleg?nek megfelelen egyenletes sz?n, egy?ntet ?llom?ny?, rugalmas, csom?mentes. Nem lehet szalonn?s, ragacsos, rugalmatlan, morzs?l?d? vagy sz?tes, egyeletlen sz?n ?s ?llag?; - tartalma: idegen anyagokt?l mentes. Ne legyen ny?l?s, mikroorganizmusok ?ltal k?ros?tott; - ?ze, szaga: a keny?rt?pusra jellemz arom?j?. Ne legyen idegen ?z vagy szag?; - s?tartalma: 1,5-2,8 % k?z?tt (sz?razanyag-tartalomra), v?rhat? cs?kken?s 1,3-2,35 %-ra; - alapanyaga: liszt, v?z, s?, kov?sz (kov?sz-p?tl?) vagy ?leszt, esetleg n?mi adal?k is; - fszerez?se: a keny?rt?pusra jellemz fszerekkel (rlem?ny vagy m?s form?ban).

Vagyis a XIX. sz?zadi ?s mai ig?nyek-elv?r?sok igen hasonlatosak. ?s ha ?sszehasonl?tan?nk a k?z?pkori XV. sz?zadi c?h-szab?lyokkal ?s v?rosi-tan?csi mins?gi el?r?sokkal... nemigen tal?ln?nk olyan elv?r?sokat, amelyek a mai ,,finny?s" ?zl?snek m?r nem feleln?nek meg. St, azt tapasztaln?nk, hogy a r?gi k?vetelm?nyek nagyon is j?l illeszkedn?nek a mai term?szetes t?pl?lkoz?si elk?pzel?sekhez, ?zl?seinkhez. Vagyis mins?gi alapanyagokra ?s technol?giai higi?ni?ra alapozva a r?gi elj?r?sok nemcsak rekonstru?lhat?k, hanem feleleven?thetik a r?gielfeledett hagyom?nyokat, bv?thetik a mai keny?r-v?laszt?kot ?s ig?ny-lehets?geket.

1 Czifrai Istv?n magyar nemzeti szak?csk?nyve. Nyolcadik kiad?s. Budapest, 1888. 2 Magyar ?lelmiszerk?nyv. 1-3/81-1 sz?m? el?r?s. Egyes kenyerek ?s p?ks?tem?nyek. 2004.

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