How to install mahle piston oil rings

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How to install mahle piston oil rings

Registered Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: New Zealand Posts: 3,738 I just opened my 930 engine after about 3 track days. The compression rings had rotated quite a bit. The oil rings were still where they should be. But I guess over time they will move too. I would still pull them out and orientate. I just opened some out of the box too, and pulled them. The rings had not been oriented, and the oil rings were well out of place. Alan __________________ 83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) BEFORE BALANCING, installing pins, rods, or locks, please check the part number and description on box label to be sure you have the correct components. Shelf pistons that are altered, scratched or damaged are not returnable. Custom Pistons are returnable only for manufacturing defects.Piston diameter must be measured at gauge point which, in most cases, is .500" up from the bottom of skirt. (See fig. 1). Dimensions listed are gauged at a temperature of 68 degrees fahrenheit. Note: aluminum expands and contracts with temperature variations. Your pistons are manufactured from 4032 high silicon aluminum alloy. Clearance is built into piston based upon finished bore for normal operating conditions. (See Table. 1). Clearances listed below are minimum. Some applications such as supercharged, turbo, nitrous and endurance applications may require .001"-. 003" to be added to the minimum clearances in Table 1. Cold water pickup marine applications may require an additional .002"-.004" clearance. Table 1 Bore Range Min. Clearance Sport Compact 2.500 to 3.625" .0020 to .0025" Sport Compact 3.626 to 3.999" .0025 to .0030" SB Applications 4.000 to 4.200" .0020 to .0025" BB Applications 4.200 to 4.600" .0030 to .0035" Piston to valve clearance is determined by cam lift, lobe separation, duration, valve margin, head design, and aftermarket milling of cylinder head. Minimum recommended clearance for intake & exhaust valve would be 0.100" deep and .050" radially. Check by using clay or follow cam manufacturers recommendations for checking clearance, making sure the cam is degreed exactly as it will be during operation.We strongly recommend that you chamfer or slightly relieve the bottom edges of your cylinders/liners/blocks. If a sharp edge is present it will cause excessive piston skirt wear. This is very important in stroker applications where the piston skirt travels past the bottom of the cylinder.Due to the large selection of aftermarket cylinder heads available, and wide variety of combustion chambers, you should always check piston/dome to head and spark plug clearance to assure proper clearance (See fig.2). Minimum clearance for steel rod =.040", aluminum =.060". Check using clay with piston installed on rod at TDC, rock piston to get minimum clearance.Always check counterweight to piston clearance ar BDC. Recommended minimum is .060".Due to the large variation in rod widths and material thickness above pin, always check for proper piston to connecting rod pin end clearance. Recommended clearance is .050" min per side and .050" min from top of rod to piston. With the piston installed on the rod, rock the piston side to side and rotate forward and backward to ensure proper clearance. (fig. 3)For installing Spiro locks, grip each end of the lock and pull apart (approx. 3/8" ? 7/16").The lock will resemble a small coil (fig.4).The lock can then be spiraled into place almost as if you were screwing them into a groove (fig. 5). When the locks are properly seated, only half of the lock will be visible above the groove. Most SRP pistons that require spiral locks will need 4 locks per piston, 2 at each end of the pin. WARNING: It is important that the correct number of locks are installed in each piston or severe engine damage may occur. WARNING: Do not over stretch spiro locks and do not reuse spiro locks!Install the end of one lock at 90 degrees from the pick lock groove. Use a stiff small bladed screwdriver and insert the tip into the pick lock groove while you wedge the lock into the groove without kinking or deforming the lock. After the first lock is in place, seat the lock by solidly hitting the wrist pin with a brass drift pin. Now install the connecting rod and the second lock. Seat the 2nd lock in the same manner as the first. Just as a precaution, we recommend hitting each side of the wrist pin with the brass drift pin an additional time. Perform these functions on a cloth towel or soft rubber pad so no damage to the piston occurs.Thoroughly scrub pistons and cylinder walls with an automotive parts type cleaning solvent or hot water and soap before installation. JE recommends a light coat of assembly oil (Marvel Mystery Oil or similar) on the pistons' skirt, rings and cylinder walls for initial installation and start up. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND USING SYNTHETIC OIL OR ANY AFTERMARKET OIL ADDITIVES until the rings have properly seated. Be sure to thoroughly lubricate wrist pins and piston pin bores with an assembly oil to prevent galling on initial fire-up. It is also a very good idea to double check forced piston pin oiler holes for foreign matter or debris before ring installation. During trial assembly or mock-up, verify the dome and valve pockets on the pistons match the combustion chamber and valve diameters of your cylinder heads. As a rule, four-valve piston exhaust pockets are located above the JE logo on the underside of the piston. Many JE/SRP piston designs have special offset domes and /or specific valve pocket "left" or "right" hand positions. It is the responsibility of the engine builder to ensure nonsymmetrical (left or right designed pistons) valve pocket pistons are installed in the correct cylinder location.IMPORTANT: BEFORE FILING RINGS ? Check each individual ring in its corresponding piston ring groove to ensure proper ring groove depth (radial back clearance) and side clearance (thickness)(fig. 6). Proper cylinder finish (honing), ring end-gap, and lubrication are critical to achieving optimum ring seal.End gap is the clearance between the two ends of a piston ring as it is installed in a cylinder (fig. 7). Most high performance and racing engine builders purchase piston rings slightly oversized in order to file fit them to very precise end gaps. Testing has shown measurable increases in horsepower and decreases in blow-by as a result of properly fitting the ring end gap to the operating conditions. Factors such as supercharging, turbocharging, nitrous oxide, endurance racing and different fuels determine proper ring end gap. Proper ring end gap can more than double from one engine to the next depending upon the above factors. Precise machining of the cylinder bores is critical, and is the reason why rings should be fitted to the cylinder in which they are to be installed. A diameter variance from one cylinder to the next changes the end gap of the rings in that cylinder by a factor of pi (3.1416). For example, a cylinder .001" larger in diameter will increase the ring end gap by .001 x 3.1416 = .003", rounding off. The second ring end gap should always be larger than the top ring end gap.When installed in a horizontally opposed engine, oil rail gaps should be installed as shown at below (fig. 9). The tab rail must be installed below the oil ring expander with the tab facing toward the bottom of the ring groove extending into the split oil drain back holes (fig. 8). Use caution not to install the rail tab into the wrist pin oil hole.Install oil ring support rails on the bottom of the oil ring groove with the antirotational locking detent facing downward. Rotate the oil ring support rail until antirotational locking detent falls between the opening at intersection of ring groove and wrist pin hole. (fig. 10) Install oil ring assembly as usual. THESE GUIDELINES CAN ASSIST IN THE INSTALLATION PROCESS TO HELP ENSURE CORRECT OPERATION AND MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE BUT ARE NOT INTENDED AS COMPLETE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. The men and women at MAHLE get lots of questions from their customers about pistons, rings, how to install them, and what the best practices of doing just that are. In this video we get some great info straight from the source about MAHLE piston rings and the best way to get your oil ring package installed on the piston. One of the things that many people make the mistake of thinking is that all of this stuff is created the same and created equally. Such is not the case. Just watching this video should deliver you some great info on the ideas that MAHLE puts into practice with their pistons. Secondly there's some good info here for properly installing rings onto a piston. This can be a process that is frustrating for those of us that are not building multiple engines per year or equipped with decades of experience doing the job. Following the process that is explained here will help you get those rings installed in the swiftest amount of time and most importantly in the most precise and proper manner possible. Here's some great real world tech and info from MAHLE! Press play below to see this cool piston ring tech video from MAHLE Motorsports ? Share This Who is the best person to rebuild your engine? You... eric77super Posts: 79 Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2005 4:29 pm Post by eric77super ? Sat Nov 26, 2005 6:31 pm i'M PUTTIN IN 87 MM SLIP INS IN MY TYPE 1 AND THE PISTONS CYLINDERS AND RINGS ARE CIMA MAHLE. i UNDERSTAND THAT THAT THE 2 COMPRESSION RINGS ARE TO BE PLACED APART AND THE OIL RING GAP IS SUPPOSED TO BE ON THE TOP-SO FAR SO GOOD. QUERY; WHAT IS THE RED/GREED COLOR DESIGNATION MEAN ON THE OIL RING (GOES ON TOP I HOPE) and THE OIL RING IS ACTUALLY 2 PARTS WITH 2 GAPS, DO THEY LINE UP OR ONE IN THE RED AND ONE IN GREEN OR ARE THEY SUPPOSED TO BE SEPARATED AND IF SO HOW MUCH DISTANCE OR DEGREES APART? i didn't put the heads on so i can still get in there if i didn't do it right. ERIC IN NJ 1955cc66bug Posts: 358 Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2004 9:15 pm Post by 1955cc66bug ? Sat Nov 26, 2005 11:25 pm The green and red are there so you DO NOT OVERLAP THEM. I put the colors on the top. the top two rings I put the gaps just above the wrist pin, opposite from each other of course. And the oil ring gaps just up from the compression ring gaps. do not overlap any of the ring gaps. eric77super Posts: 79 Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2005 4:29 pm Post by eric77super ? Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:53 pm For example Wilson @ pg.132 says place compression rings about opposite but not lined up with piston pin. He says oil ring gaps face up and multi piece oil rings gaps are staggared OK SO FAR. The Haynes Manual @ pg.2-36 simply says to stagger the ring gaps around the Upper 180 degrees of each piston the the oil control ring gap facing up The Bentley Manual @ pg. 26 says stagger the ring gaps at 90 degrees but with oil ring gap up. Another site for VW piston and Cylinder Instal says top ring 1 oclock, secons ring 7 oclock, top oil ring 11 and bottom oil @ 5 oclock-I'm not kidding [i THINK THEY'RE WRONG ] SEE ip&c.html WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST FOR ORIENTATION OF THE FIRST TWO RINGS And THEN THAT THIRD (bottom) OIL RING-especially how and where to to place the top and bottom rings OF THE OIL RING ASSEMBLY ( called "rails" at DEVES )see http:oilring_inst.html and , finally what the hell are those red and green markings on the CIMA MAHLE Oil Rings about??? Here's what I did assimilating all this ::::: Top Ring at about 9:30, Second Ring about 2:30 (this in keeping them all above the upper 180 degrees per Haynes.) I then placed the upper Oil Ring Rail at about 11 oclock ('cause they gotta be near the top) and staggered the lower Oil Ring Rail at about 1 o'clock. SOMEBODY Please Tell me how it's really done and help me with those Green/Red colors-they gotta mean something! Thanks ERIC IN NEW JERSEY Marc Moderator Posts: 23741 Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 2:01 am Post by Marc ? Mon Nov 28, 2005 9:14 am eric77super wrote:...SOMEBODY Please Tell me how it's really done and help me with those Green/Red colors-they gotta mean something! 1955cc66bug wrote:The green and red are there so you DO NOT OVERLAP THEM...That's all - you're supposed to be able to see both colors - much easier to see than the ends of the expander butted up against each other. The ring gaps are pretty much going to travel to wherever they please in operation, your mission is just to get them staggered initially, and there's more than one "right" way to do that. Personally I put the expander gap up and the scraper rails to either side of it by ~1?", then put the compression ring gaps ~120? away (4:00/8:00). Basically what you've done but spread apart a little more...but your way should be OK, I wouldn't take it back apart to change it - assuming you're positive you didn't overlap the expander eric77super Posts: 79 Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2005 4:29 pm Post by eric77super ? Wed Nov 30, 2005 10:24 am I went thru some old VW Mags and the One from February 1998 says to place the each compression ring at about 5 and 7 oclock and the 2 scraper ring gaps around 10 and 2 --like a big x. It also says to NOT use synthetic oil during breakin which I was gonna do but Now I wont. THANKS EVERYONE FOR REPLIES Marc Moderator Posts: 23741 Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 2:01 am Post by Marc ? Wed Nov 30, 2005 12:06 pm eric77super wrote:...the One from February 1998 says to place the each compression ring at about 5 and 7 oclock...Like I said earlier, the gaps will likely move on there own in operation but that's too close IMO for initial position - they should be 120? to 180? apart. There's more than one "right" way, just don't grossly violate this concept: The piston ring gaps should be evenly distributed around the circumference of the piston, staggered at intervals of approximately 120?. 4-piece oil rings (those with a separate expander & spacer) have their gaps positioned 90? apart: ...personally I displace the compression ring gaps ~120? from the upper oil scraper ring's gap with this setup, but I doubt that it really matters much. Once again, don't lose a lot of sleep over this. The important issues are that the rings be right-side-up and in the correct grooves, you should never "spiral-on" a compression ring as this can warp it, and that you don't allow the ends of the oil control ring expander to overlap. 20B5-37.htm eric77super wrote:It also says to NOT use synthetic oil during breakin which I was gonna do but Now I wont....That's the conventional wisdom, it may or may not be as big a deal as some make of it. Personally I don't use synthetic for break-in simply because it's too expensive IMO for only 300 miles' use - there are good conventional oils out there (Castrol & Kendall to name two) that'll work just fine. seahag Posts: 394 Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 9:15 pm Post by seahag ? Wed Nov 30, 2005 2:46 pm Marc, I've been told that using synthetic oil for break in was a no/no because it is so slippery that the rings won't seat. Is this fact or an old wives tale? I was told to wait 5000mi. the make the switch. What say you? Marc Moderator Posts: 23741 Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 2:01 am Post by Marc ? Wed Nov 30, 2005 2:57 pm Did you read the last link I posted above? Several new cars now come with synthetic oil in them from the factory and they seem to have no ring break-in problems...but as noted in that article, they may have come up with an ideal cylinder wall finish/ring composition that's compatible with synthetic...nobody's talking. My opinion is that it can't do any harm using (a good) conventional oil for breakin, and there must be some anecdotal evidence behind the advice to not use synthetic - so use the conventional for the initial fill and at least one change after that, and spend the savings on beer. fogey Posts: 15 Joined: Fri May 27, 2005 9:41 pm Post by fogey ? Mon Dec 05, 2005 12:32 am I have assembled many, many engines, water and air cooled over the last forty years. I usually just went by what the manufacturer suggests, typically that the two compression rings should be 120-180 degrees apart. I would put the oil spacer rings (the wiggly crooked one) in first with the red and green colors touching then the bottom scraper then the top spacer these three compnents 120 degrees apart and always made sure there was oil behind all the rings and a light coat of oil on the cylinders, use a cheap foam paint brush. I do know that once that engine fires the rings will break in almost instantaneously and after that the rings will rotate around the piston for the rest of that engines life. the gap positions are really out of our control so don't agonize about it that much. Installing rings looks like one of those things that can go really wrong but rarely ever does. I've never had a piston ring set go bad except for hundreds of thousand of miles. BTW rings don't wear out, cylinders do. how to install mahle piston rings

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