Montgomery Center – Paddle, Hike, Covered Bridges



Northern Forest Canoe Trail’s

Missisquoi Pastoral Paddle Itinerary

(One Day & Two Nights)

Cows are classic Vermont; and no place in the state rivals the bovine population of Northwestern Vermont’s Missisquoi River Valley, where cows appear transposed against an open and pastoral backdrop, framed by broad views of the horizon and dramatic mountains in the distance. Part of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail, the Missisquoi River offers paddling as calm and mellow as the cows grazing at its banks.

The region is also marked by unique snippets of human culture. In Richford, where your getaway begins, you’ll find the Grey Gables Mansion, an architectural gem with a storied past. In Montgomery Center, you’ll discover delectable restaurants to please your palette. In Enosburg Falls, you’ll encounter the historic Bridge of Flowers and Light, and the Enosburg Opera House. And with Quebec not far from any one point in the Missisquoi River Valley, you’ll note the unmistakable “borderlands” feel of both English and French language in the air.

All this is outlined in the following one day / two night itinerary. To adapt the itinerary or create a custom trip, simply visit the Northern Forest Canoe Trail’s online Trip Planner.

Before You Go:

✓ Purchase online the Northern Forest Canoe Trail’s Section 5 Map: Missisquoi River to Lake Memphremagog, which provides a visual guide for your paddling experience, as well as great background information on the area’s human and natural history.

✓ Make lodging reservations for the Grey Gables Mansion Bed & Breakfast and Somerset Inn.

✓ Make reservations for your paddling tour, rental, or shuttle needs with either Vermont Tour and Charter, Brooks to Bays Nature Tours, or Bert’s Boats. (Read on for information about their services.)

✓ Make necessary gear and safety arrangements in conjunction with your chosen outdoor activities.

✓ Optional: Check the schedule for the Enosburg Opera House for show dates when you’ll be in town.

Afternoon Arrival & Evening One (Richford/Montgomery Center)

Arrive in Richford in the afternoon, and check into the stately Grey Gables Mansion. Owners Tim and Debby Green offer a number of guest rooms with private baths, plus amenities such as free wireless internet and secure outdoor boat storage.

Take some time to wander the halls of the Mansion, absorbing its history and architecture. Built in 1892 and once owned by Sheldon Boright, a prosperous wood baron, the stately balloon-framed mansion exhibits a typical multi-gabled, asymmetrical design, complete with ornate exterior woodwork, a wrap-around porch and porte-cochere, projecting bays, stained glass window sash, and variegated wall and roof sheathing materials, typical of the Queen Anne style. The interior displays period details such as carved walnut and mahogany staircases, bedroom fireplaces, and original, dark varnished door and window architraves which are composed of reeding pilaters rising up to molded cornices.

The rather elaborate design and decorative detailing of the house was taken from a popular late-nineteenth century architectural pattern book entitled, Pallister’s American Cottage Homes (1878) and then adapted, by Richford builder M.E. Dodge, to both suite the needs of the Borights and to make use of locally-available materials. The original house design, found on the cover of Pallister’s 1878 pattern book, was actually used by George Pallister himself, in the construction of his home in Seaside Park, a suburb of Bridgeport, Connecticut. This home; however, is no longer standing, leaving the Grey Gables Mansion as perhaps the only surviving example of this architecture in the country, and certainly, the only one of its kind in Vermont.

Grey Gables Mansion owner Tim Green says the best dining in the area is to be found in Montgomery Center, a 25 minute drive, accessible via 105 south and 118 east. There you’ll find several good options: The Belfry, a classic New England dining establishment with a lodge-like atmosphere; the Snowshoe Lodge and Pub, featuring pub food with an eclectic twist; the chef-owned Bernie’s, with its mix of Italian and Mexican homemade specialties; or Trout River Traders, featuring creative American dishes made with local and organic ingredients, plus a country store.

If you need to purchase gear for your activities, leave some time before dinner to shop at First Trax, also in Montgomery Center.

Day of Paddling: The Missisquoi River

Begin your day with the Grey Gables’ scrumptious hot breakfast, which may include delights such as eggs benedict, blueberry pancakes with Vermont maple syrup, and cinnamon french toast.

Next you’ll head out for a full day (16 miles; approximately 6-7 hours) on the Missisquoi River. If you’ve got your own boat(s) and simply need a shuttle, consider hiring Vermont Tour and Charter. To rent a boat(s) and shuttle yourself, contact Bert’s Boats. For a guided paddle (boats and shuttling included), you’ll want to hire Bert’s Boats or Brooks to Bays Nature Tours. Refer to the NFCT’s Section 5 Map: Missisquoi River to Lake Memphremagog for plotting your route, as well to NFCT’s online Plan a Trip for route overviews.

Before leaving town, stop at Mac’s Market on Route 105 and pick up food for a picnic lunch.

Richford to East Berkshire

You’ll begin your paddle in Davis Park, along the River and across the street from the Grey Gables Mansion. The large island across the channel from Davis Park once hosted a car racetrack and the ball field of a farm-league team during Richford’s boom days of the 1920s.

After a mile and a half, you’ll approach Magoon Ledge on river left. At some water levels, a class two rapid forms here. Stay right.

After four and a half miles, you’ll approach where the Twin bridges of Route 105 and the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail cross overhead. The multi-use rail trail extends 26 miles from St Albans, on Lake Champlain, to Richford. You’re likely to see anglers on the shoreline ledges at the bridge, as the deep pools that form beneath them provide good brown trout habitat.

At about six miles, you’ll approach Doe Campsite on river left, on top of a tall bluff that shows varved clay: annual sediment layers creating visible stripes, like tree rings, reflecting larger particles laid down during spring flooding, and finer particles settling out during the winter. These varves formed when the last ice age receded and this area was under water. Long- and short-tailed weasels are often seen swimming and diving for crayfish here.

Just a half mile past Doe Campsite, the Trout River enters from the southeast through a channel it gouged in the 1990s, leaving its old meandering course to dry up. If you need a break to stretch your legs, take out at the Route 118 bridge. Consider picnicking here; visit the general store; and enjoy views of Jay Peak (elevation 3,861 feet), recognizable by its height and large summit building. The 300-mile Long Trail, which follows the spine of the Green Mountains through the center of Vermont, crosses this rocky summit.

East Berkshire to Enosburg Falls

At nine miles from Richford, you’ll approach the Samsonville Dam. Line (lining means to pull your boat using a rope; click hyperlink for more information), or portage around, the old dam on the left, watching for iron rods and other dam remains. The Samsonville Butterchurn Factory operated here, and part of the old powerhouse can still be seen on river right. Paddle through islands below the dam, then scout the next quarter mile of Class II-III ledges from a portage trail on river left.

At fifteen miles from Richford, you’ll approach large Ice Deflectors. These structures on river right, made from salvaged cement railroad ties and steel pipe, are an innovative attempt to protect saplings from destruction by the massive chunks of ice which scrape across this floodplain each spring. Over 8,000 trees have been planted on 30 acres of former farmland as part of the Brownway River Walk Trail and Floodplain Restoration. Floodplain forests like the one being recreated here help to regulate floods, to maintain water quality by minimizing soil erosion, and to provide wildlife habitat.

At sixteen miles, you’ll arrive at Enosburg Falls. Take out left at Lawyer’s Landing, upstream from the Route 108 bridge and the dam. Camping is permitted at this privately-owned access, which was built for paddlers in 2004.

Just beyond the Route 108 bridge, the pedestrian Bridge of Flowers and Light is one of the few remaining sand-filled bridges in the Northeast. Built in 1915 in 100 days, it was a vital transportation link for milk from the area’s farms to creameries along the river. In 1969, the new Route 108 Bridge was built. The old bridge was abandoned and fell into decay. In 1996, a group of citizens saved it from collapse.

Evening Two: Enosburg Falls

You have two options for spending the night in Enosburg Falls: camping at NFCT’s Lawyer’s Landing campsite (mentioned in the paragraph above), or, the Somerset Inn. Operated continuously as hotel since 1877, it features a Victorian dining room with tin ceilings and crystal chandeliers.

For dinner, consider Halvey’s Café with it creative American specialties and artsy atmosphere; Leon’s Diner, a classic diner where you’re sure to spot all the local faces; the Parkside Grill, featuring American food; Enosburg House of Pizza; or the Somerset Inn, with its English-style pub.

Completing Your Getaway

Before you leave Enosburg Falls, have breakfast at Leon’s Diner or the Somerset Inn. Make sure to drive by the Enosburg Opera House in the center of the village. Gifted to the town of Enosburg in 1892 by Dr. B.J. Kendall Co., the largest employer in the area and a manufacturer of patent medicines; the Enosburg Opera House is a restored wood frame Victorian building hosting a variety of cultural events throughout the year. Check their schedule in advance to see if you might catch a show while in town.

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Recommended Reading

Maps and Guides

➢ Canoe Camping Vermont and New Hampshire Rivers, Roioli Schweiker, Backcountry Publications, 1999.

➢ AMC River Guide: New Hampshire/Vermont,Appalachian Mountain Club, 2002.

➢ Vermont Atlas and Gazetteer, DeLorme, 2003.

➢ USGS Topographical Map: Mount Mansfield(VT). (888) ask-usgs or .

➢ Canadian Topographic Maps: 31 h/1 Lac Memphrémagog,31 h/2 Cowansville. 1-800-214-8524.

Fact and Fiction

➢ Hands on the Land, Jan Albers, MIT Press, 2002.

➢ Rumrunners and Revenuers: Prohibition in Vermont,Scott Wheeler, The New England Press, Inc., 2002.

➢ Yesterdays of Brome County, Marion L. Phelps and Leon J. Darrah, eds., Brome County Historical Society, 1980.

➢ The Nature of Vermont, Charles W. Johnson, University Press of New England, 1998.

➢ Aunt Sarah, Trudy A. Parker, Dawnland Publications, 1998.

Driving Times to Richford, Vermont from Major Cities

Boston 4.5 hours

Burlington, Vermont 1.5 hours

Montréal, Quebec 2 hours

Manchester, New Hampshire 4 hours

New York City 7 hours

Portland, Maine 4 hours

*About the Northern Forest Canoe Trail: The Northern Forest Canoe Trail links the watersheds of northern New York, Vermont, Québec, New Hampshire and Maine, and is a unique thread tying together the Northern Forest Region. The 740-mile water trail traces historic Native American travel routes through the rivers of this region, and is a living reminder our history, where rivers are both highways and routes of communication. Flowing with the stories of Native Americans, European settlers, and the development of mill towns and the timber industry, the Trail's rich heritage serves as a basis for widely accessible, environmentally friendly tourism in many of the small communities along the route.

If you enjoyed this adventure, consider exploring other portions of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail.

Map 1 – Fulton Chain of Lakes to Long Lake

Map 2 – Long Lake to Saranac River

Map 3 – Saranac River to Lake Champlain

Map 4 – Lake Champlain to Missisquoi River

Map 5- Missisquoi River to Lake Memphremagog

Map 6 – Lake Memphremagog to Connecticut River

Map 7 – Connecticut River to Umbagog Lake

Map 8 – Umbagog Lake to Rangeley Lake

Map 9 – Rangeley Lake to Spencer Stream

Map 10 – Spencer Stream to Moosehead Lake

Map 11 – Moosehead Lake to Umbazooksus Stream

Map 12 – Umbazooksus Stream to Umsaskis Lake

Map 13 – Umsaskis Lake to St. John River

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Summary of Services & Activities

Arrival & Evening One

Lodging in Richford:

➢ Grey Gables Mansion Bed & Breakfast

Dinner in Montgomery Center:

➢ The Belfry – American food in lodge-like atmosphere

➢ Bernie’s – American, Italian; and Mexican on certain nights

➢ Snowshoe Lodge and Pub – Pub with eclectic menu

➢ Trout River Traders – Creative American entrees made with local and organic ingredients

Shopping in Montgomery Center:

➢ First Trax – Bike and ski supplies with some general outdoor gear

Day of Paddling

Breakfast:

➢ Grey Gables Mansion Bed & Brekfast

Activity:

➢ Paddle the Missisquoi River on your own, or using the services of either Bert’s Boats, Brooks to Bays Nature Tours, or Vermont Tour and Charter (half to full day)

Lunch:

➢ Picnic along the River (with food from Mac’s Market in Richford or the general store near the Route 118 bridge)

Evening Two

Lodging in Enosburg Falls

➢ Somerset Inn – comfortable accommodations with English-style pub

Dinner in Enosburg Falls

➢ Halvey’s Café – American

➢ Enosburg House of Pizza - pizza

➢ Leon’s Diner – American; popular with locals

➢ Parkside Grill – American

Optional Activity:

➢ See a show at the Enosburg Opera House

Completing Your Getaway

Breakfast in Enosburg Falls:

➢ Leon’s Diner - American; popular with locals

➢ Somerset Inn – full hot breakfasts in Victorian dining room

➢

Credit: Northern Forest Canoe Trail

Credit: Northern Vermont Resource Conservation Development Council

Credit: Lisa Dyslin

Credit: Lisa Dyslin

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