2009 Dealer Manual - Cascade Swimming Pools



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INSTALLATION MANUAL

(ULTIMATE POOLS)

September 2008

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CASCADE INSTALLATION PROCESS

MANUAL FOR ULTIMATE POOLS

Day One – Pre Excavation Site Meeting

Once the Building Approval has been granted, it is time to set up a site meeting between the Customer, the Installers, and the Salesman (Could be you and your installer). This introduces the client to the installation crew, and ensures that nothing agreed on at the time the pool was sold, is not passed on to the Installer.

At this time, the pool location is marked out, using spray can DAZZLE which is supplied with the pool kit or biodegradable paint, and the proposed location of the filtration is shown to the installer. Be sure to confirm the pool height in relationship to the surrounding terrain, and MARK THE POOL TOP on some adjacent permanent fixture like the base of the house. This will avoid any problems later when (or if) the customer thinks the pool is wrongly sited or at the wrong height. Remember that the pool panel height PLUS the thickness of the pool copings and mortar will be the FINISHED height.

A vinyl liner pool can be subjected to floatation if a high water table is present, so in all cases, it is advisable to position the pool height so that the average water level in the pool is higher than the existing pre-excavation ground level. The fact that the finished pool might be 150mm above what used to be the ground level will not be noticed - or at least is easily disguised by a gentle slope away from the pool copings. This will also eliminate rainwater washing dirt and debris into the pool, so is a good idea from this point alone.

Other factors such as difficult access, trucking requirements etc. should be discussed at the site meeting.

Explain to the customer that you will be presenting him with an invoice for the initial 85% payment, and that you would appreciate being able to pick up this payment on the day or day after the installation commences. It is NOT an "up front" payment, as you will have started the job, and using this funding to purchase all the materials for the job.

This is the ONLY WAY we do it, as historically, if you build the pool without the absolute certainty of getting the money, you will have a quick lesson on how bad things can turn - and very quickly! DON'T EXPOSE yourself to this kind of problem.

Tell him "On the day we commence excavation, we will be delivering all of the pool components, excavating the pool, delivering all the site materials, sand, cement etc. and the crew will commence the installation. They will concentrate on your site until the pool shell is complete some five or so working days, so in effect we are building 85% of the pool for 85% of the money"

In any case, you are expected to pay Cascade for the pool kit, and you are possibly incurring costs for excavation, (we don’t include the excavation) site materials and the crew fee, so don't deviate from our plan, and bear in mind that delays can and do occur!

Summary

The Pool Builder is to attend the site meeting at the appointed time to meet with the customer. This meeting is to ensure that all parties are up to date with the location, shape, construction, and depth of the pool, Filtration and plumbing requirements, and any other information required should be cleared up at this meeting.

The Pool Owner’s Manual should be filled out at this time and handed to the customer to read. Ask them to leave it out with the Building Approvals when they have looked through it, as the first few pages are for your use, so when the pool is complete, rip these out and keep them. By doing this you expose the “Yellow” colour first customer’s page, and they can keep the Manual after this.

The customer should be reminded that a cheque will become due on the day the excavation commences

The Pool Owner’s Manual is required here, along with the Pool Permit, Pool Plans, and any “Variation to Sale and Purchase” forms. The builder should mark out the dig at this time.

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Topics that would have been covered during the sales presentations are as follows:

• Pool Length

• Pool Width

• Pool Shape

• Corner shape

• Stair shape & size

But you must check on:

• Confirm the floor shape & depth

• Digger access

• Soil removal truck hire

• Pump, Filter, light transformers and Heat Pump location

• Piping and cable location

• Where the concrete pad is required

• Back wash trench location

• Soak pit location

• Liner color, samples should be handed over here

• Coping Color, Samples should be handed over here

• Any Extras that have been ordered

Those that should be present are:

• Customer

• Sales Consultant

• Production Manager

• Site Manager

• Excavation Manager

• Landscaper

• Pool Builder.

MH Design pool specifications, includes Engineering Statement B1 & B2 & PS1

Day Two – The Day of the Dig

It is always a good idea for the "Boss" to attend on the day the pool is excavated - for at least the first hour "just to make sure things go OK" - and also to collect your 85% cheque.

Make sure the pool water is higher than the surrounding clay to avoid floating the liner!

If you have had the pool kit brought to you by Carrier, DON'T take it to the site BEFORE you commence the installation. Take it to your storage facility, and deliver the pool kit on the day you intend to start. Pre delivered pool kits tend to have things "go missing", and also gives the customer a chance to inspect the various components prior to installation.

Remember you have sold him the SIZZLE, not the STEAK! The sizzle will impress him, but the steak may not!

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This is an old, but good sales tip. Don't try to dazzle them with science ... better to sell the benefits of "the good life, midnight dips with the wife, poolside barbeques, healthy living, happy (and tired kids), a "a babysitting tool" that can give the mother a break as she sits by the pool and relaxes while she watches the kids "entertain" themselves"

An average size pool kit will fit on a large trailer, so keep it there until you are ready to start the pool. If you don't have a large trailer, they can be rented for a modest sum.

The Builder and Site Manager should be on site first. The Builder is to mark out the pool position and required dig area, including trenches and soak holes that may be required if not already done

If trenches and soak holes are forgotten, it will be the builder’s responsibility to dig them and fill them at a later date. He is to check the mark out with the council plans and the customer’s expectations. He should note the digger and truck arrival times on the time sheet supplied along with arrival, departure, and break and down times of the digger and all trucks.

If planks and scoria are required to build ramps or protect specific areas, then the Site Manager is to ensure that this is done correctly.

The Builder is to ensure the diggers use and maintain usability of ramps and planks, monitor levels and heights constantly while the dig is proceeding. The builder should be able to determine whether the water blaster is required and notify the site manager who will arrange for the blaster to be delivered with the pool kit.

During the day of the dig, the pool kit will arrive. The builder is to assist in unloading the kit and storing it in a manner that is both accessible and tidy. He is to sign of the check list provided by the driver noting any discrepancies at that time.

Also delivered in the kit are the gate sign "Another Quality Cascade Pool", make sure the crew nails up the sign on the customers fence (ask first!), this could lead to more business for you! Drop Referral Cards into adjoining houses - at least 1/2 mile in each direction - these inform the neighbors’ what is going on, and could trigger another sale for you!

The builder is to ensure the site is kept tidy at all times, this also means water blasting at the end of the day to ensure the driveway and footpaths are able to be used safely, and after the dig is completed. Any planks should be collected by the factory driver at this point, unless they will be required for future truck access.

The builder should order Scoria (or other lightweight drainage material) for the floor and backfill, Nova flow, Pavers, Council inspection, and Pre Order the Concrete through the Production Manager at this time to prevent holdups. It is easier to put concrete off a day or two that order for the next day

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If any Scoria, Drain coil, Alkathene, or other materials are required for the pool on this day, they must be ordered by 9:30 am, otherwise delivery will not be until the following day. The Production Manager will call back to confirm delivery, inspection and concrete times.

The Site Manager MUST be notified immediately if any damage is done by any worker on site to any part of the site for insurance and remedial purposes.

The Day of the Dig

- Collecting Payment

Once the kit has arrived, the first payment, (85% of the total, as per Sale & Purchase agreement) is due and a cheque should be obtained from the customer by the site manager or sales representative.

BE FIRM OVER COLLECTING THE PROGRESS PAYMENTS!

Be polite, but insist on obtaining all and any payments from your customer as they fall due, in accordance with the Sales Agreement

Do not proceed to the concrete stage without the 85% payment

We prefer to install the hung liner track during the first week, so that the surrounds people can move in and start the pool surrounds.

Arrange with them a time to show samples of copings, and meet on the site with them. The copings may be installed before the pool liner is fitted.

As the pool concrete needs to cure, and as ABGAL take up to two weeks to deliver the liner, this time allows the outside work to be completed, so that pool fences, pavers etc are installed by the time the liner is fitted.

When the liner arrives, this is the time to mention that the 15% payment is due, and politely request that he brings his cheque book on the day we are going to fit the liner.

Under no circumstances, proceed with installing the pool liner if the second payment is in doubt or past due! You will lose all leverage with your customer, and may NEVER get paid! Even though they have signed the agreement, which clearly spells out the payment terms, you will still find the occasional customer who balks at meeting the payment terms.

Your response to this is:

"Fine Mr. Brown, just let us know when you will have the (Term Deposit Maturing, Money Coming From Your Broker, your Inheritance, The Mortgage Arranged etc. etc.) and we will schedule the installation crew for that day"

All that should be present are:

• Customer – At least at the start, preferably all day

• Sales Consultant – At least at the start, morning visit

• Site Manager – From the start, periodically through day, then at end of the dig

• Excavation Team

• Landscaper – only if needed

• Pool Builder – Must be the first person on the site

Day Three – Panel Construction

Rebuild floor and compact if required. Lay the drainage metal/scoria on pool floor as required by the pool plans.

Assemble panel kit, level, straighten, brace and pin the panels firmly using the supplied brace assemblies.

(Save these for further use after the concrete has set)

Tie the steel in the bond beam, ensuring no steel is sticking up higher than the pool wall height and the steel runs are straight and neat. All steel joints should overlap 400mm

Where the Aquagenie Skimmer is fitted into the pool wall, the bond beam thickness (and strength) is reduced, leaving a potentially weaker section, so BE SURE to fit the special steel brace supplied, AND run a 10mm steel rod over the skimmer top as well.

Fit the Aquatech extruded liner clip to the top of the pool panels if it has been specified

Install the Aquatech hung liner extrusion to the top of the panels if it has been specified, then insert and tape in place the internal tile band foam. This foam is to ensure you can drill through the top of the panel to rivet the ABS tile band extrusion if a mosaic tileband is being fitted, or if the customer requires one at a later date. (Ever try drilling through 25mpa concrete with a 1/8 drill bit? You need a boxfull of them! The foam gives the drill space to break through the panel lip so the stainless steel rivets can be employed)

Install and tape in place the 90mm insulation foam around the exterior side of the pool panels. The panels have small lips to support the bottom of the foam blocks. Cut the pool light niches cleanly.

[pic] A neat light cutout using an electric bread knife!

Box up filtration pad if required or lay and level the 600 x 600 pavers purchased for this purpose

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Cut out and install light niches, install the skimmers.

Tape up the panel joins and ensure all joins are flush. Undo the bolts and nudge them accordingly if they are not flush.

Make sure to tape any sharp external panel corners such as around seats and egress areas.

Other clipping options are: Albatross Clip (L shaped) or standard “registered liner” (U shape). The Aquatech and Albatross clip allow the copings to be installed immediately after the concrete pour and is termed “hung” liner. The older method means the copings cannot be installed until the registered liner is fitted – usually 15 to 20 days later. Using the Hung liner method means the pool surrounds can continue virtually after the concrete pour.

Tidy the site and ensure tools are packed up at the end of the day.

Any items hired must have arrangements made to return them as soon as they are no longer needed, this can be by the crew at the end of the day or arranged through the Site Manager or Production Manager.

All that should be present are:

• Pool Builder

• Pool Builders Assistant

• Site Manager – At least once through day

Day Three/Four – Steel Inspection

The Pool builder is to continue on from previous day if required. In most cases the panel kit should be assembled and braced by now. Ensure the site is tidy. If inspection is not complete by this time, wait for the council inspector, time should be known for this by now.

MAKE SURE THE INSPECTOR SIGNS THE COUNCIL INSPECTION SECTION OF THE BUILDING APPROVALS.

After the inspection, remedy any changes requested, note these on job bag as they are completed as rebook the inspector if required.

Confirm the concrete date and time or move up or back as required. Check the depth to ensure the finished depth will be correct.

All that should be present are:

• Pool Builder

• Pool Builders Assistant – if required

• Site Manager – At least once through day

Day Four/Five – Concrete

For the Classic pool, the floor is to be string lined for plastering; the concrete for the braces is mixed up on site and poured over each brace assembly. The brace assemblies are a permanent part of the pool itself. The pool floor is then plastered with a cement/sand plaster mix which is made up on site. Great care needs to be taken to ensure the floor matches the plans and is smooth and precise. Alternatively, a classic floor can be concreted as per the following Ultimate pool method but it is very important that a hydrostatic valve is included in the floor and the cost difference has been allowed for.

The builder is to be onsite well before the concrete pour is due in order to drain the pool of excess water if required, check braces and ensure the walls are still straight, clear any soil that has fallen behind the panels.

When the Pump arrives, ensure they set up in a position that will not cause harm to the driveway, gardens, or neighbors. Organise the area where they will be able to clear the pipe of concrete.

While the pump operator sets up the builder should be breaking up the foam and filling up the stair and bench areas as much as possible but ensure that several “columns” of concrete are left to be filled – thus supporting the weight of the seat onto the ground below. Place the hydrostatic valve in to its position in the pool floor using the drainage mix to support the lower section, but ensuring that the pool concrete also supports the rim by at least 50mm.

When the concrete truck arrives, check the slump and turn away the truck if the concrete is immediately unusable. Note the waiting time spent for the next truck as we will ask for a time credit for wasted time. If more time is wasted waiting for the concrete to thicken, note this as well, or order replacement load. Keep a record! This is your money being wasted!

Start at a point that ensures enough concrete hose has been provided to go around the entire pool and fill the panels from the top down, (Pillar tube, Top Bond Beam, and then footing), ensuring there are no air pockets in the pillars, starting at one point and working around the pool back to where you started. It pays to over fill the bond beam a little as it is far easier to trowel off the excess than it is to shovel up additional half set concrete to the bond beam and will lead to a weak structural point.

When trowelling the top bond beam, make sure the concrete is no higher than the finished panel height and is trowelled smooth to allow room for, and easy installation of the pool copings. Ensure room is left for the Classic liner clip if required.

After the bond beam has been trowelled it is a good idea to wash the pool walls at this time where possible as the lime in the spilt concrete can eat away the galvanizing on the panels. This can cause serious corrosion and force an early replacement of the panel steel under your workmanship warranty conditions. Use a wet rag to do this.

Fill the stairs in around the broken up foam slowly making sure they do not move or buckle. Add additional braces if necessary. Pour the floor starting from the deep end working back to the shallow end to a point where you can get out of the pool. Fill the Hydrostatic valve cap and trowel smooth. Fill the filtration pad, if required), and trowel smooth

When the pour is finished, ensure the pump operator uses the designated area for washing out his pipes.

If there is excess concrete; shovel it in to behind the pool panels making sure no water go down on to the fresh concrete. Finish up trowelling the floor of the pool, wash up all the equipment thoroughly and put away.

In the warmer weather, if the concrete temperature exceeds 30o C it is recommended to fit sprinklers and ask the customer to check them and the concrete on occasion during the next day to help it set without cracking, and to call you if these is a problem.

Cracks occur when the concrete dries out too quickly or when the mix was to watery to start, (120 + slump)

All that should be present are:

• Pool Builder

• Additional Builder – If required

• Pool Builders Assistant

• Factory Assistant – If Required

• Site Manager – At least once through day

Day Five/Six – Filtration and Liner Measure Up

Install the L shape Albatross Clip to the bond beam now (if specified), while the concrete is still soft, using Simson Construction Adhesive #ISR 70-03. This has proved to be the best, and we use it to fix the coping tiles as well.

Set up the pump(s), Filter(s), Heater(s), Chlorinators(s), and ozone generator(s) on the concrete pad or in the shed as required. Install the pipe work from the skimmers to the pump, filter and heater(s) and back. Install pipe work to additional eyeballs or water features.

Make sure a non return valve (supplied) is included on every suction line at a point that is convenient to that particular job. DO NOT put it close to the pool where it will be concreted or paved over, as later access may be required.

Plumb in Ozone generator(s) and set. (If required)

Plumb in Chlorinator(s) and set. (If required)

Make sure that a two way valve is installed in front of the pool pump and filtration equipment on the suction line, and after the heater, (or filter if no heater supplied) on the return line. This is more important if the filtration system is below the level of the pool, but allows easy removal of the pump, filter, and heater for repairs or replacement in the future.

Fit the mains water anti-backflow device (supplied) on the hose tap nearest the pool to avoid the possibility of draining the pool if the mains water supply is cut while the hose is in the pool (siphon risk). It’s shown on the MHD plans, so you have to use it!

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During and on completion of the filtration system being installed, use the cascade supplied pressure equipment to ensure there are no leaks. (Dealers can purchase extra ones of these from Aquatech for $120.00 + GST).

You are required to sign off the filtration system pipework on the sticky label (supplied) after attaching where appropriate and after pressure testing the filtration lines.

By doing this step, you avoid being blamed for underground leaks after – say – the landscaper has run a compacting machine over your pool pipelines Protect yourself from this situation!

Remove the construction braces, and finish adding any insulation foam at this time if required.

Scoria or other backfill should go in at this time up to but not in contact with any plumbing to allow for wet inspection of joins for leaks. Be aware of the panel welds when backfilling – excessive compacting may “pop” a few welds. We don’t have this problem when using Scoria, but this material may not be available in your area (or as a decorative – and expensive – medium only). Use the lightest weight backfill material you can find in your area.

The pool wall panels are to be scraped clean of concrete and washed if not done so already.

The floor is to be ground or stoned while the concrete is fresh and relatively pliable.

Sweep the floor out thoroughly, then go over it thoroughly with your wet/dry vacuum.

The customer’s pool site and access through his property is to be checked for concrete spills and if found, these are to be removed. Re-check the pool depth; it would not be the first time we have had to jack hammer a floor up due to too much concrete being placed or having slumped down to the deepest point!

Measure the pool for the liner using the AB Mark out form supplied in the job bag with the Pool Owner’s Manual

Always make “A” on the mark out the shallow end or if there is no shallow end, make “A” on the mark out from the walk out stair end.

Use the “LINER CHECK LIST” shown later in this manual to ensure all required information is supplied when you order your liner.

Pass this Liner mark out on to the Production Manager or fax to Cascade on (09) 524 2431 to order the liner. DO NOT fax this to the manufacturer yourself as it needs our order number and reference to match it up with a pre supplied quotation. This applies to Aquatech liners as well.

Ensure all tools are away or tidy and the section is tidy and safe.

At this point the subcontract builder (where applicable) should write out his invoice for 50 percent of the total contract and have the Site Manager sign it off after inspecting the site, so the builder can be paid.

The Site manager will not sign the pool off if anything mentioned as to be completed so far is not, unless there is fair justification or conditions that would put the builder at an unfair disadvantage. Fair notice should be given to the site manager in order for him to get to the job without holding up the builder. Remember, if there is no signature, there will not be any pay .All that should be present are:

• Pool Builder.

• Additional Builder – To assist with the mark out if required.

• Site Manager – To sign off the job for concrete payment and assist with the mark-out if required.

Day Seven – Coping Installation (Hung Liners)

This step only applies to pools that have the Albatross or Aquatech extruded clip which allows the pool to be completely finished with the exception of the liner install.

The color should have been decided by now and delivery of the Pool Coping Tiles arranged by the Production Manager.

Bullnose copings are recommended due to the ease of grip from within the pool and more so as a safety feature for children. They are less likely to injure themselves on a bull nose coping if they come up and bang their head than they are on a sharp edge coping

The installer should check that enough have been supplied first and that the color and quality is correct and consistent. The inside edge is the edge that must be completely straight. The swimming pool has been built square so there is no need for the copings to be anything other than straight and square as well.

ABSOLUTLEY ALWAYS USE A STRING LINE ON THE FRONT (INSIDE) EDGE OF THE COPINGS TO GET THEM STRAIGHT AND EVENLY PLACED ON THE BOND BEAM

Use a mortar mix made up of wash mix sand and cement at a rate of 2 sand to 1 cement with the Cemplus additive. Set up and lay all the corners first ensuring the copings are laid evenly on the bond beam. The overlap on the pool side should be around 35mm from the pool wall to the tip of the bull nose on the coping. The spacing between each coping should be about 8 millimeters and filled with grout. The grout mix is 3:1 silica sand/cement mix

DO NOT cut the stones near the pool side where the dust can enter the pool as this will clog up and damage the filter and pump.

DO NOT allow cement to drop in to the pool when grouting as this is hard to remove and the lime content in cement can stain the pool wall and floor

DO make sure the neat grout line between copings extends all the way down and under the front of the copings. This is an area that is easily missed, but looks dreadful from the pool – where the swimmers will be!

When the copings are installed, and the pool is to be left empty for “X” days, hire temporary Pool Fence to protect little kids from falling into the pool. The customer should pay for this measure, so bring it up to him early in the piece.

Those that should be present are:

• Coping Installer

• Site Manager

Day Seven or Eight – Check up

The Site Manager is to periodically check the site to ensure all is ok and to maintain customer contact. It is a good idea also for the Sales Consultant to also maintain customer contact. If the pool requires a water tanker fill, now is the time to pre order the water to fill the pool.

All that should be present are as follows.

• Site Manager

• Sales Consultant

LINERS ORDERED FROM AUSTRALIA WILL TAKE UP TO TWO WEEKS OR MORE TO ARRIVE.

MAKE SURE YOUR CUSTOMER IS AWARE OF THIS DELAY IN COMPLETING THE INSTALLATION

Fit the Pool Liner

When the liner arrives, you will need a fire hydrant, and sufficient hoses to reach to the pool. A water Permit is usually required to take water from the Public Mains. In isolated areas, you may need to arrange for Tanker Trucks to bring the water. The customer usually pays for this as part of his financial obligation to you (and as mentioned in the Quotation Form you filled out at the initial meeting)

Arrange by Fax or collect the Water Permit depending on your council’s requirements. Auckland council has a water meter fitted to their own hydrant which we rent from them.

Thoroughly sweep the floor out again. Re-check for stones or any un-ground cement ridges or anything else that will show through the pool liner.

DO NOT ALLOW ANYONE, for any reason - including the customer or his children - into the pool after you have prepared it.

DO NOT ALLOW KIDS to play within the vicinity of the pool either as stones or other objects can get dropped in, (including the kids themselves)

Set up the liner vacuums, 1 per skimmer if possible.

Many of our crews use a “Hockey Stick” – and it is a superior way to ensure a tight liner vacuum fit. Make it up from 40mm pipe as shown in the illustration. The theory is that the liner “coves” the transition between the wall and floor. By setting the inlet end of the HS into the pool floor just next to the wall panel (before the concrete goes in) with a 200mm length of 40mm (glued) sticking up into the pool area, once the concrete has been installed and set a bit, cut it off level with the floor or toe-ledge. This allows suction from your Liner Vacuum to draw air from the cove. As the cove extends all around the pool it will make the vacuum much more effective, and ensure a tight fit before any water is added to the pool.

Where you have external seat/egress features ALWAYS use one HS in the center at the bottom of the last step, as well as the other one or two you may be using elsewhere in the pool. This will ensure that the seat/egress liner (which is always fitted first, as the measurements are more critical) This HS will look different from the illustration, as the distance is greater, but the theory is the same.

Once you start using Hockey Sticks, you will never go back to the “old” methiosH Hockey Sticks, you will never go back to the “old” method which is to feed the vacuum hose through the skimmer.

Seal up the front of the skimmer and any openings in the pool to make it air tight, these include the eyeball holes, the cable outlet holes on the pool lights, additional skimmer faces, swim jet faces, swim jet returns, and any other exposed joins paying attention to corners and joins where steps and benches are.

Remember to remove any poolside Danco tape before finally clipping the liner in.

Roll out the liner from the “A” end, (Shallow or stair end) to the “B” end (Deep end).

Traditional Clip

Cut up some old liner clip into 4 inch pieces, 20 – 30 pieces should do. Remember to keep these for future use.

Fit the seat/egress area first making it secure by sandbagging.

Clip the liner up using the 4 inch pieces working from the center to the outside on each end of the pool and down the sides towards the middle, spacing the clips about 1 meter apart. Gently maneuver the liner into the correct position and turn the vacuums on to suck the liner in to place.

While the vacuums are running, set up the water supply hoses from the hydrant or tanker.

Albatross / Aquatech Clip

We are working with Aquatech to produce an improvement over the Albatross clip, so this is still a work in progress as this is written. Early trials indicate it will be a major step forward, as it clips over the panel top in a similar manner to the register liner U shape liner clip.

Filling the Pool

Start filling pool. DO NOT use dirty water. When using the hydrant, turn the key very slowly as sudden pressure changes will blow water lines and can cost thousands to repair. Run the water in to the street until water comes clean and clear.

DO NOT accept dirty tanker water, DO NOT use untreated river water as it carries various algae’s, of which some of them are extremely difficult to remove. DO NOT use the customers own tank water supply as their pumps are not designed to cope with the volume of water needed constantly to fill a pool. DO NOT use the customer’s home water supply as this is an extremely expensive way to fill the pool, not just in water but in crew time as you have to be there to ensure a correct fit.

When the water is at the right level and the liner has been fitted in to its finished position with no wrinkles, fit the light collars, cut out the centers, and fit the light cable and bulbs. Continue filling the pool till the skimmer is almost reached and finish installing the skimmer.

Check the lights thoroughly for leaks at this point. Install any other items at this time as well, like eyeballs or swim jet systems. Continue filling the pool till 1 inch above recommended fill level on the skimmer.

Shut off the hydrant slowly, remove the stand pipe and replace hydrant cover if required. Roll up all the hoses and inform the Site Manager they can be collected and returned.

Check the Skimmer and pipe work around skimmer thoroughly for leaks. Check the Lights for leaks. Check the eyeballs for leaks. Check the Swim Jet for leaks. Call the site manager to have the rubbish removed from the site.

At this time the pool should be ready to turn on.

All that should be present are as follows.

• Pool Builder

• Pool Builders Assistant

• Factory Assistant – If Required

• Site Manager – At least once through day

Start up

Continuing from previous day, the builder should check again for leaks in the pool and plumbing before turning on the filtration and heating systems.

When the water level has reached the line on the skimmer faceplate, with the multiport set on Bypass, turn the pump and allow it to prime. On occasion you may have to manually prime the pump to get started with a garden hose.

After a few minutes the dirty water associated with the filter media will have been discharged, so with the pool water at correct operating level, switch off the pump, set multiport to filter and restart pump.

Vacuum the pool at this time if it is even slightly dirty.

The second payment, (15% of the Sale & Purchase agreement), becomes due at this point and a cheque should be obtained from the customer by the Site Manager, Sales Representative or Pool Builder

Check thoroughly for leaks around the pump, filter, ozone, heater, and any joins in the entire plumbing of the pool, fixing if required. Set up the ozone generator as per instructions once you are satisfied the pool is running and leak free, add start up chemicals to skimmer and allow them to circulate in to the pool.

All pool construction rubbish, if not removed yet, should be in a single tidy pile ready for collection.

Ask the customer to fill out the completion certificates and the site manager to sign of the pool as completed.

Either bring your signed invoice and the completion certificate to the office or give it to the site manager to bring them in for payment.

All that should be present are:

• Customer – at start up

• Site Manager – at start up

• Pool Builder

• Builders assistant – If required

Coping Installation

If not installed earlier in the process, the color should have been decided by now and delivery of the Pool Coping Tiles arranged by the Production Manager.

The color should have been decided by now and delivery of the Pool Coping Tiles arranged by the Production Manager.

Bullnose copings are recommended due to the ease of grip from within the pool and more so as a safety feature for children. They are less likely to injure themselves on a bull nose coping if they come up and bang their head than they are on a sharp edge coping

The installer should check that enough have been supplied first and that the color and quality is correct and consistent. The inside edge is the edge that must be completely straight. The swimming pool has been built square so there is no need for the copings to be anything other than straight and square as well.

ABSOLUTLEY ALWAYS USE A STRING LINE ON THE FRONT (INSIDE) EDGE OF THE COPINGS TO GET THEM STRAIGHT AND EVENLY PLACED ON THE BOND BEAM

Use a mortar mix made up of wash mix sand and cement at a rate of 2:1 sand/cement with the Cemplus additive. Set up and lay all the corners first ensuring the copings are laid evenly on the bond beam. The overlap on the pool side should be around 35mm from the pool wall to the tip of the bull nose on the coping.

The spacing between each coping should be about 8 millimeters and filled with grout. The grout mix is 3:1 silica sand/cement mix. A handy tool for grouting is a standard grouting tool with the “flat” end ground down to the required thickness, unless you can find a “purpose built” tool in your local hardware shop.

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DO NOT cut the stones pool side where the dust can enter the pool as this will clog up and damage the filter and pump.

DO NOT allow cement to drop in to the pool when grouting as this is hard to remove and the lime content in cement can stain the pool wall and floor

All that should be present are:

• Coping Installer

• Site Manager

Pool Cover supply and installation

This is arranged by the Production Manager usually at the same time the liner is installed and the installation company will install the cover and roller at a time arranged between them and the customer. This is normally after the decking or paving is completed around the pool to ensure that no damage is done to the cover by the way of sharp edges, stones, mud, etc…

Handover

This should be the final task for the pool, usually completed by the Site Manager. The Site Manager is to arrange a day and time with the customer to instruct them on the operation of the pool.

On this day the pool gets checked for leaks, rebalanced, cleaned, and the customer is taught how to correctly use their chemicals and how to use the filtration equipment.

If the customer has read the Pool Owner's Manual & watched the videos, the Handover is simply going over the operations of the pool with him. Obviously YOU will need what to say, so familiarize yourself with the Handover procedure by READING THE MANUAL and WATCHING THE VIDEO yourself a few times!

The final payment (Usually $250.00 plus extras payments) should be collected now.

Once payment has been collected, sign off the warranties in the Pool Owner’s Manual and hand them the completed Producer Statement (PS 3).

The first page of the Pool Owner’s Manual should now be the yellow front cover, as you have removed all the in-house pages.

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It is a good time now to ask if the customer would allow Cascade to call them to see if it is ok to show their pool to prospective customers and to inform the Production Manager to update the database to reflect their answer. Also ask the customer to fill out the Customer Report form in the Pool Owner’s Manual and mail them (freepost) back to Cascade Swimming Pools or hand over to the Site Manager.

Problems

Installation problems are usually related to excavations that go wrong, underground water etc. so each case must be judged on its merits.

We have a form which is to be used if you strike difficult ground conditions after commencing the installation. These are available on request or downloadable from the Dealer’s section of the Cascade web site.

The only other problem which seems to occur with "new" installers is that they call us to say:

"The Liner Won't Fit"!

It IS POSSIBLE that we might occasionally produce a liner that is "out of spec" - but this is unlikely. It is very possible, however, for an inexperienced crew to produce a pool with a liner that looks "wrong" for the pool. This is possible because of a number of reasons.

The liners are produced according to the season. In the summer months we produce "tighter" liners, due to the effect of summer heat expanding the liner, and in effect making it "bigger", so for that reason it is not advisable to postpone an installation if you have the liner already delivered to you.

Another cause of ill fitting liners is the crew stretching the liner excessively in the shallow end to overcome bad placement at the deep end. The result is a stretched liner.

It is most important to spend a little more time in the initial placement stage of the liner installation, and taking great care to "average out" the liner surround wall so that the liner is placed accurately in the pool.

All liners have a "floor" and a "surround". The surround runs horizontally around the pool wall, so the junction between the pool wall panel and the plastered floor should coincide with the surround and the floor of the liner.

This is easily seen if the pool liner is held in place by a vacuum.

SUMMARY

If a liner "won't fit" it is almost always because it is placed incorrectly. Check this thoroughly before PANICKING and calling us!

You can always reach us by email myles@cascade.co.nz or fax on (09) 524-2431 and we prefer this latter method of communication for all important messages, as the hard copy eliminates misunderstandings that might occur on voice calls or emails.

All orders must be placed by fax. All reliners and liners to be fabricated must be sent by fax with all measurements clearly shown. No liner will be manufactured unless we have your faxed unambiguous confirmation of the size.

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E&OE © 2009

CASCADE INDUSTRIES LIMITED

(Subject to change without notice)

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|OUR ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT WILL ALTER OR PRODUCE ANY ADVERTISEMENT FOR YOUR LOCAL NEWSPAPER AT NO COST TO YOU |

Co-Operative Advertising

Call Larry Ogden to discuss your share of a proposed Advertisement in the National Press:

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